CE light blinking/rough acceleration

[MrPutin]

Hey all,
Last week I noticed that the check engine light would blink at around 3k rpm. This week the light blinks much more frequently (2k-3.5k rpm range) and now I feel the car runs somewhat rough when cruising down the highway and the check engine light keeps flashing. Runs as if it is lean or rich.

It's a '95 and here are the stored codes:
1226 Knock sensor #2
1222 Lambda control #1
1252, 1254, 1255, 1256 Fuel Injectors #2, #4, #5, #6
1283 Fuel Injector output stage

Now, a couple of weeks ago I had an issue.. One of the injectors "popped out" where it connects to the fuel rail and my gf drove the car with an injector that was literally spraying fuel all over the engine bay. Half of tank of fuel in about 10 miles - gone. Not sure how nothing caught on fire. Needless to say she is no longer my gf.

Anyways.. the car ran good after I put the injector back in and replaced the little clip that holds it in place. A couple days after that is when the CE light started blinking once in a while and like I said now it is getting worse and the car runs rough (still drivable). Looking for suggestions/advice.
What should I tackle first?

- - - Updated - - -

Anyone? I ordered a knock sensor so that is going to get replaced first.
Will it hurt the car to drive it say 10 miles with a bad knock sensor?

[MommasM3]

Which injector popped out?

This is just a guess, but I dont think the knock sensor is your problem. I think it is throwing that code because you have a fuel delivery issue. Same with the Lambda (O2) code. I'd start checking the fuel rail pressure, and then pulling all the injectors, inspecting the tips and leads, then re-connecting/re-seating them and making sure the rail is solid. One popping out of the fuel rail sounds like the whole rail has an issue. I had to take my rail off the other day and it is always a PitA, because you almost have to take all injectors out at the same time! Cant imagine how you only had one come loose. I'd also be concerned that the little plastic injector tip was damaged.

We had a 3k RPM CEL because of a bad knock sensor, too, but that was the only code, and it didnt drive rough.

[BnGRacing]

Check to see if you still have a shunt resistor under the plastic engine cover; it'll be connected to the vanos solenoid/engine hook and it goes to the outputs of the coils. While you're there, check for good grounds to your coils and that the straps are still there.

Having all sorts of codes pop up at once makes me think you have a ground issue or a DME that's taking a shit. Check grounds & that resistor and do a hard reset on your DME (unplug battery, remove DME for an hour, reassemble) before you go hog wild throwing parts at anything. If you have a bad knock sensor, O2, and injectors; they'll throw codes almost immediately or will do so once the engine is up to temp (closed loop) and you put the engine under load (accelerating past 3k).

Also, bad grounds will cause the DME case to be really hot to the touch. I had the same codes you did, as well as one for DME failure, and it ended up being a blow'd up shunt resistor & missing ignition coil ground straps.

[MrPutin]

Ok guys, thanks for the input. I just received a new knock sensor so that will be going in this weekend. While I'm at it, I'm going to disassemble the fuel rail and injectors and check up on the ignition ground straps. Not sure exactly what a "shunt resistor" is but I'll look around.
By the way, will the codes reset if I take the DME out for an hour? Would like to know this so I can check on what codes its throwing after I put everything back together. Does it store the old codes and will they show up again?