Bad DME or Crank sensor or ????

[calundeen]

Howdy!

95 OBD 1 M3.

I bought the car and it came with a Turner Chip 24lb injectors and bigger MAF. PO took them off to clear emissions and never put it back on.

Fast forward.

Installed everything and it ran beautifully.
About 2 weeks after install i went to start it and the RPM's went all over and then the car shut off, would not start. Waited 1 min and it fired up. It did this about 3 consecutive times of starting the car. I noticed it happened only when you drive, shut it off, and restart the car within a short period.


Yesterday i was driving on the freeway and all of a sudden the car shut off and CEL came on. Within a second it fired back up on the fly. It only got worse and worse. I noticed EVERY bump i hit, the car would cut out and shut off and restart itself. Did this about 50 times on the way home (i know)....

Today: Switched back to stock injetors and chip, No start.
Put the turner kit back on, No start.

What now?

Thanks!

[Moron95M3]

read out the code. Do the 'stomp' test.

(get in car, close door, key to run (not start), stomp the gas pedal 5 times)

Code: 'blink'-'blink blink'- 'blink blink' - 'blink blink blink blink blink' is a code 1245 (for example).

- - - Updated - - -

Code 1243 is a bad Crank position sensor...here's my DIY (also shows my symptoms and how to test the sensor).

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1662934-DIY-Crank-Position-Sensor-%28front-location%29&highlight=DIY+Crank+position


The last thing I can think of is a bad ground (every bump it would shut off) or possibly a EWS issue. What build month/year is your '95?

[calundeen]

10/94

Did the stomp test and nothing. I do not have a CEL. It only came on when the car died and when the car fired back up it went away.


I have a spare DME i will be testing on friday with EWS delete.

[Moron95M3]

9/94 shouldn't have ews. And if you stomp tested it should give the code even if its not solid (will store the code). Did u get a 1444 code (meaning no codes?)

[lasmariaspr]

Get the code! Start from there.

[jbarela]

I just did the stomp test you describe and I got no blinking lights anywhere..I have a 95 325i ..

[calundeen]

9/94 shouldn't have ews. And if you stomp tested it should give the code even if its not solid (will store the code). Did u get a 1444 code (meaning no codes?)

I am 10-94 manufactuer date. I put key in run position and stomped the gas pedal 5 times and no lights blinked.

[Moron95M3]

I am 10-94 manufactuer date. I put key in run position and stomped the gas pedal 5 times and no lights blinked.

10/94 is boarderline for no EWS or EWSI.

Make sure your door is closed - and try it again.


better destructions:
http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f99/diagnose-pre-95-e36s-obd-i-diy-t47837/

[calundeen]

Keep in mind, I did not have a CEL when I arrived at home, DME should still store code? Tried every possible way, it wouldn't give me any codes. Looked at other tutorials.

- - - Updated - - -

I have a 506 DME so that means i have EWS?

And the spare DME will have to be realigned at the dealer? ughhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

[Moron95M3]

odd - you should get some sort of code doing the stomp test. That is frustrating! (even if it was a brand new car, never ran, it should show 1444 for 'no codes').

[calundeen]

odd - you should get some sort of code doing the stomp test. That is frustrating! (even if it was a brand new car, never ran, it should show 1444 for 'no codes').


Alright got a new stock 413 dme, no start, fuel pump will not prime now. Put the old dme in and fuel pump primes. Ugh. 413 and 506 are interchangeable correct? Need Ews realigned? Ahhh whas wrong!!!

- - - Updated - - -

Also with the key in the ignition and in the run position with new dme check engine light is on, with old dme check engine light is off.

[calundeen]

In the 2000 OHM range on the crank sensor I got a reading of 513.....Crank sensor appears to be working in OK condition

[calundeen]

bump

[lasmariaspr]

No check engine light, no start.

[chrisperry1983]

I had a bad crank sensor a couple months ago. Mine did the same exact thing where it would shut off, then turn on back on, until finally it wouldn't start at all. It would just crank and crank and never turn over. I made the mistake of bringing it to the shop and telling them what it was, only to have them diagnose it for 5 hours and charge me for it. Some useful threads/sites:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1662934-DIY-Crank-Position-Sensor-(front-location)

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/101-Projects-15-Crankshaft-Sensor/101-Projects-15-Crankshaft-Sensor.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMJFrHqCo7U

I think you need one of those special wrenches to take off some stuff to get to it, but other than that it seems like a simple enough job to do yourself. Supposedly you do not need to take the intake manifold off, as long as you can squeeze your hands in there.

[ChrisM011]

Sounds like a voltage issue. Start by giving us some basic information: when you turn the key to "run", what happens? Which lights in the instrument cluster light up and which ones do not?

[calundeen]

Alrigth update time. I got in my hands a 413 red label DME. CEL is on when key in run position, but will not start, fuel pump does not turn on. WIth original 506 DME No check engine light, but I get fuel. I ended up putting the 413 chip in my 506 DME and got a check engine light, but still no fuel. I believe the 506 chip is fried. WHo has a 506 DME for sale?