Moron95M3
07-19-2013, 10:25 AM
***************EDIT* Mod has been finished. A DIY 3.5mm jack not using the tape deck inputs. Also replaced the burned out bulbs and swapped faceplates with a nicer nonfunctional unit.
Read farther down for more :)
Ok guys, I posted a bit concerning a radio stuck in 'code' (won't go to 'wait' and wasn't accepting the correct code).
So, rather than just replacing my old radio, I figured I'd combine them both to get exactly what I want. Here's the start:
What I have:
CM5903L from my car (220k) with worn out buttons, a dead right hand LCD Screen (one bulb) and LCD bleed through on the left.
CM5903L from another car in much better shape, but locked in 'code' mode and also has some bleed through on the right hand side.
What I want to have:
One good CM5903L. Limited bleed through, all lights lit up.
Also want a 3.5mm aux input hooked up to automatically trigger when something is plugged in (This is where I differ from the 'dummy' tape method).
Here are some links I've found that have helped thus far:
How to fix a dim display (however I think it's for a C33/43 as mine is slightly different)
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?251722-How-to-fix-your-e36-dim-radio-display
How to Add Aux into a C43 (tape deck differs from the CM5903L).
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1886405-DIY-E36-Aux-in-with-C43-headunit
How to add aux into a C33 (which has the same tape deck).
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=239069
Let's get onto some pics. I will update this thread as I continue.
Here's what I started with. No pics of the right bulb being out behind the LCD but you can imagine that.
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1004794_888251474827_294391970_n.jpg
Now I took my other better radio and started to disassemble. I wanted the faceplate for my radio so I started by taking the face off and the top plate of the radio.
Face plate is pretty easy, two screws on each side and then a few tabs that you need to push in to pry it off. (remember to pull your volume knob off first)
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1069292_888251814147_295360386_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/988636_888251340097_1245687861_n.jpg
The top cover is pretty easy to remove also, it's two screws in the back of the plate, then just pry it up.
Here's the 'new' cover plate with the top plate removed.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/270607_888251794187_1390495430_n.jpg
and the top plate off (see the two screw holes)
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/600587_888251993787_961966317_n.jpg
Then I pulled the tape deck out. It's just 4 screws and yanks out. The connector is under it but just pulls out.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1069338_888251953867_1739006665_n.jpg
http://i944.photobucket.com/albums/ad286/mtnbike420/E36%20Aux%20in/4.jpg
And here is just the tape deck:
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/228997_888251898977_1382853775_n.jpg
Now I went on with taking out the LCD display. Unfortunately for me, it's just one screen so either one I use will have bleed through :( Although I'm going to a junk yard tonight trying to get another one or two CM5903's.
Here's the display: (this is the 'better' radio but has more bleed through)
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/943617_888251549677_939327699_n.jpg
It has one ground you need to unsolder. You can actually pull the display off before de-soldering
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1003737_888251754267_155823740_n.jpg
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1069369_888251769237_785273909_n.jpg
I pulled the 'good' radio's display and found there are 6 metal tabs you need to de-solder to get to the bulbs under the LCD. I am assuming one bad bulb is the issue with my current radio and am stealing them from this one.
I desoldered half the tabs and bent the display forward so I could get to the bulbs. I desoldered those also and pulled out the bulbs.
After bending the display outward. (see the two bulbs)
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/73340_888251644487_240606396_n.jpg
bulbs:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1069238_888251604567_1941278676_n.jpg.
For fun, I put the display back together, but it didn't quite sit right (there are two plastic guide pins that align the lcd to the board, and one didn't line up happily so I think only 1/4 the ribbon cable was making good contact. When I plugged it back in that's about what I saw. (start of the work 'CODE' up top).
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1004793_888251569637_797151216_n.jpg
So thankfully that was just a test, and for the other radio I'll be much more careful when I reassemble.
So for my LCD screen fix, I still need to install a good bulb, and try to find a better display somewhere...
Now to the tape deck and the aux input: Most aux input threads do something to fake a tape being inserted, however I want to be able to keep the function of the tape if for some reason I want to use it.
So here's what is going on. When you insert a tape, the tape physically pushed an arm that lifts up on a little plunger switch. This switch (with no tape) is a closed circuit. When you insert a tape it's open circuit. So I wanted some way of breaking the circuit when you insert a 3.5mm jack into the aux port.
(y'know how when you plug headphones into your computer it automatically knows not to play out the speakers? That's a 5 pin audio 'switching' jack. Which I'm going to use to do what I need to above.
$3 at the shack.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1011979_888251414947_2046339881_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/31465_888251355067_1214926561_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1012355_888251380017_1082256670_n.jpg
Now here's the fun part.
The circuit needs to be open for the Aux or tape. So I need to break that circuit somehow using this switching jack. But the jack will close the switch when something is installed. I think I can find a relay that is always closed and opens when powered that I'll be able to use here. I'll also need power then to run to the switching jack and have it come back to the relay. I'm going to draw it up and can post later.
Overall I think it can work. I'll need to find another place though in that circuit to add this relay. That's the only thing I'm worried about. It would be 100x easier if the circuit need to be closed for aux/cassette and open for FM.
Last thing I'm not sure of is how to get it to switch from Aux back to FM. I'm not sure if just closing that circuit (removing the 3.5mm plug) will automatically force it to radio or not. (I.E. when you hit 'eject' is that just forcing the tape out and when the switch closes it goes back to radio? or does something occur when you hit 'eject' that changes it back to the radio? Hopefully the first way as that's what I'm trying to do)
For the actual audio signal, I'll be doing as the C33 shows in the DIY (solder ground/right/left to the Cassette board).
More to come hopefully tonight! I need to get a few relays and a new soldering iron (long story, my current one is shit) tonight from the shack. Hopefully I'll get something cool out of all this!
Read farther down for more :)
Ok guys, I posted a bit concerning a radio stuck in 'code' (won't go to 'wait' and wasn't accepting the correct code).
So, rather than just replacing my old radio, I figured I'd combine them both to get exactly what I want. Here's the start:
What I have:
CM5903L from my car (220k) with worn out buttons, a dead right hand LCD Screen (one bulb) and LCD bleed through on the left.
CM5903L from another car in much better shape, but locked in 'code' mode and also has some bleed through on the right hand side.
What I want to have:
One good CM5903L. Limited bleed through, all lights lit up.
Also want a 3.5mm aux input hooked up to automatically trigger when something is plugged in (This is where I differ from the 'dummy' tape method).
Here are some links I've found that have helped thus far:
How to fix a dim display (however I think it's for a C33/43 as mine is slightly different)
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?251722-How-to-fix-your-e36-dim-radio-display
How to Add Aux into a C43 (tape deck differs from the CM5903L).
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1886405-DIY-E36-Aux-in-with-C43-headunit
How to add aux into a C33 (which has the same tape deck).
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=239069
Let's get onto some pics. I will update this thread as I continue.
Here's what I started with. No pics of the right bulb being out behind the LCD but you can imagine that.
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1004794_888251474827_294391970_n.jpg
Now I took my other better radio and started to disassemble. I wanted the faceplate for my radio so I started by taking the face off and the top plate of the radio.
Face plate is pretty easy, two screws on each side and then a few tabs that you need to push in to pry it off. (remember to pull your volume knob off first)
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1069292_888251814147_295360386_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/988636_888251340097_1245687861_n.jpg
The top cover is pretty easy to remove also, it's two screws in the back of the plate, then just pry it up.
Here's the 'new' cover plate with the top plate removed.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/270607_888251794187_1390495430_n.jpg
and the top plate off (see the two screw holes)
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/600587_888251993787_961966317_n.jpg
Then I pulled the tape deck out. It's just 4 screws and yanks out. The connector is under it but just pulls out.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1069338_888251953867_1739006665_n.jpg
http://i944.photobucket.com/albums/ad286/mtnbike420/E36%20Aux%20in/4.jpg
And here is just the tape deck:
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/228997_888251898977_1382853775_n.jpg
Now I went on with taking out the LCD display. Unfortunately for me, it's just one screen so either one I use will have bleed through :( Although I'm going to a junk yard tonight trying to get another one or two CM5903's.
Here's the display: (this is the 'better' radio but has more bleed through)
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/943617_888251549677_939327699_n.jpg
It has one ground you need to unsolder. You can actually pull the display off before de-soldering
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1003737_888251754267_155823740_n.jpg
https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1069369_888251769237_785273909_n.jpg
I pulled the 'good' radio's display and found there are 6 metal tabs you need to de-solder to get to the bulbs under the LCD. I am assuming one bad bulb is the issue with my current radio and am stealing them from this one.
I desoldered half the tabs and bent the display forward so I could get to the bulbs. I desoldered those also and pulled out the bulbs.
After bending the display outward. (see the two bulbs)
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/73340_888251644487_240606396_n.jpg
bulbs:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1069238_888251604567_1941278676_n.jpg.
For fun, I put the display back together, but it didn't quite sit right (there are two plastic guide pins that align the lcd to the board, and one didn't line up happily so I think only 1/4 the ribbon cable was making good contact. When I plugged it back in that's about what I saw. (start of the work 'CODE' up top).
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/1004793_888251569637_797151216_n.jpg
So thankfully that was just a test, and for the other radio I'll be much more careful when I reassemble.
So for my LCD screen fix, I still need to install a good bulb, and try to find a better display somewhere...
Now to the tape deck and the aux input: Most aux input threads do something to fake a tape being inserted, however I want to be able to keep the function of the tape if for some reason I want to use it.
So here's what is going on. When you insert a tape, the tape physically pushed an arm that lifts up on a little plunger switch. This switch (with no tape) is a closed circuit. When you insert a tape it's open circuit. So I wanted some way of breaking the circuit when you insert a 3.5mm jack into the aux port.
(y'know how when you plug headphones into your computer it automatically knows not to play out the speakers? That's a 5 pin audio 'switching' jack. Which I'm going to use to do what I need to above.
$3 at the shack.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1011979_888251414947_2046339881_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/31465_888251355067_1214926561_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1012355_888251380017_1082256670_n.jpg
Now here's the fun part.
The circuit needs to be open for the Aux or tape. So I need to break that circuit somehow using this switching jack. But the jack will close the switch when something is installed. I think I can find a relay that is always closed and opens when powered that I'll be able to use here. I'll also need power then to run to the switching jack and have it come back to the relay. I'm going to draw it up and can post later.
Overall I think it can work. I'll need to find another place though in that circuit to add this relay. That's the only thing I'm worried about. It would be 100x easier if the circuit need to be closed for aux/cassette and open for FM.
Last thing I'm not sure of is how to get it to switch from Aux back to FM. I'm not sure if just closing that circuit (removing the 3.5mm plug) will automatically force it to radio or not. (I.E. when you hit 'eject' is that just forcing the tape out and when the switch closes it goes back to radio? or does something occur when you hit 'eject' that changes it back to the radio? Hopefully the first way as that's what I'm trying to do)
For the actual audio signal, I'll be doing as the C33 shows in the DIY (solder ground/right/left to the Cassette board).
More to come hopefully tonight! I need to get a few relays and a new soldering iron (long story, my current one is shit) tonight from the shack. Hopefully I'll get something cool out of all this!