Uro trash

[ross1]

Uro brand parts that is.
I'm well aware of their rep. when it comes to suspension parts and have experience of my own to confirm what utter garbage their under car parts are.
A thermostat housing is a simple casting and Uro was the only alternative I could find to a Jaguar plastic one so I ordered it. My, it is crudely made, lots of casting flash still on it but that's easy enough to remedy so I installed it.

The piece of crap leaks from the bleeder cap.

After fabricating my own seal I was able to correct it in about half an hour. My fingers are crossed that this is all the grief this part will cause me, t-stat housing R&R on a Jag v-8 is tedious.

DON'T ever buy anything from this crap outfit. It is worse than junk. If it fits and works at all you'll be doing the job over again soon, or worse you'll be committed to a repair and half way in you're likely to be stuck like I was.
Rant over, you've been warned.

I'm almost as mad at myself

[ShapeShifter]

I think Uro is the worst of the worst....
I had some of their lower control arms a few years ago, the bushing failed in 30 miles.
Luckily, at the time, BMA gave me full credit for the garbage and over nighted Meyle HD's.

[jehu]

I too fell victim to uro bought a blower motor that was loud as heck making a ticking noise when running . Some rep came on saying they didn't sell blower motors etc

[T444E]

Uro and OPParts are total trash.

[PorscheH6]

Nice, now I know what parts to reccomend to people I don't like.

[cddallara]

Nice, now I know what parts to reccomend to people I don't like.
You told me to go with a Uro clutch ?!?
.
:shifty
.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/cddallara/touring/IMG-20120212-00069.jpg
:dunno

[SwissCheeseHead]

The only Uro part that I installed was the gas door hinge. This was before I knew Uro parts were garbage. Luckily for me, it hasn't busted apart yet after 8 months.

[PorscheH6]

H-S corey :rofl I never made that connection. Just thought it was a dumb name for a manufacturer.

[eurokitsch]

my uro lower control arms failed after 3 months... garbage.

[Leonator134]

The only Uro part that I installed was the gas door hinge. This was before I knew Uro parts were garbage. Luckily for me, it hasn't busted apart yet after 8 months.

That's probably a world record.

[ShapeShifter]

Gee, I thought Ross got a Uro Trash sticker or something.

[MazDuh]

You get what you pay for, and in cases where theres no alternative i rather deal with OEM failure-prone vs aftermarket unknown. I bought one of their fuel door hinges as well and its held up for nearly 2 years. I am extremely careful with it however.

[ross1]

The only Uro part that I installed was the gas door hinge. This was before I knew Uro parts were garbage. Luckily for me, it hasn't busted apart yet after 8 months.
The one I bought broke before I could install it!

[Layne]

We put Uro engine mounts on my brother's 318i. So far the mighty M10 hasn't managed to rip them apart. :D

[SteveMD]

Learned to avoid uro crap when I had an older Volvo. Not too happy with the Meyle standard duty control arms on my e34 as the boots are cracking. They aren't that old either. PO installed them.

[shaytanabyad]

I bought an aluminum thermostat housing from Turner and it turned out to be Uro. Should I return it? I wasn't able to find other aluminum alternatives. Best to go with plastic OEM or aluminum Uro thermostat housing?

Some pics for those interested...

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u480/shaytanabyad/A08F7C97-209C-4D46-8497-4381D6452CB8-6535-000007D3584869C1_zps5a48acf9.jpg (http://s1069.photobucket.com/user/shaytanabyad/media/A08F7C97-209C-4D46-8497-4381D6452CB8-6535-000007D3584869C1_zps5a48acf9.jpg.html)

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u480/shaytanabyad/5BFA059A-279A-44F7-8478-1CD434375E42-6535-000007D3644435A4_zps7f99da16.jpg (http://s1069.photobucket.com/user/shaytanabyad/media/5BFA059A-279A-44F7-8478-1CD434375E42-6535-000007D3644435A4_zps7f99da16.jpg.html)

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u480/shaytanabyad/2E0DDD3B-0AD0-470C-A2E9-8BF6C9D3C7D2-6535-000007D369B55450_zps801dabb7.jpg (http://s1069.photobucket.com/user/shaytanabyad/media/2E0DDD3B-0AD0-470C-A2E9-8BF6C9D3C7D2-6535-000007D369B55450_zps801dabb7.jpg.html)

http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u480/shaytanabyad/6966A382-CB22-43D3-B7ED-290DB93C12D7-6535-000007D370E0F521_zps7076fffc.jpg (http://s1069.photobucket.com/user/shaytanabyad/media/6966A382-CB22-43D3-B7ED-290DB93C12D7-6535-000007D370E0F521_zps7076fffc.jpg.html)

[T444E]

Is it bad Uro emailed the company I work for and asked to be a supplier so I sent them this thread?

[Binjammin]

Is it bad Uro emailed the company I work for and asked to be a supplier so I sent them this thread?

Yes. You should have invited them to come out in PERSON, then showed them this thread. Then you could have been all "Now, how much did it cost you to come out here to see how everyone views your garbage?"

Then drop the mike and walk out like a boss.

[Layne]

I bought a V8 thermostat housing from ebay and it looks like the one above. Don't remember if it came in a box, but it was probably URO. Casting was rough of course, but it works fine. Outlasted one thermostat already and even outlasted the car I bought it for. Still using it on my current daily driver.

[shaytanabyad]

Layne - Thank you. I'll use it then and report back if there are any issues.

[breadvanracing]

I've only bought Uro parts when they are not critical...... hood struts, and a blower motor/fan. Knowing that the car was only probably good for another 20-30k miles, I went cheap on purpose and knew what I was getting into. Would never use Uro suspension components. I have one of their aluminum thermostat covers on my S52 in the M Coupe and have put them on friends' cars, not a bad part, but I check them closely before installation.

[Layne]

but I check them closely before installation.

Good call. I think I did some smoothing on mine before installation.

[Hoolie]

The only Uro part that I installed was the gas door hinge. This was before I knew Uro parts were garbage. Luckily for me, it hasn't busted apart yet after 8 months.

Got mine from the dealer.. Was so cheap i didn't bother showing my BMW club card :D

[Layne]

Got mine from the dealer.. Was so cheap i didn't bother showing my BMW club card :D

Yeah some things make no sense that aftermarket companies make them at all.

[SwissCheeseHead]

Got mine from the dealer.. Was so cheap i didn't bother showing my BMW club card :D

It was literally the first day I brought the car home that I busted the hinge off. In any case, it's still all in one piece since I installed it over a year ago. I've learned a lot since then :)

[5mall5nail5]

Uro thermostat housing on my 700 whp car no problems

People need to realize the o-ring seals, not the housing ;)

[93FIM5]

Uro thermostat housing on my 700 whp car no problems People need to realize the o-ring seals, not the housing ;)

Yea but if the casting is crap (warped, deforms the oring) then the o-ring can't do its job. Another issue with non oem and some times oem parts is the materials choice for the application. Again if the housing doesn't provide a good platform for the oring to do its job from then it's a crap part.

[AndrewH]

Yea but if the casting is crap (warped, deforms the oring) then the o-ring can't do its job. Another issue with non oem and some times oem parts is the materials choice for the application. Again if the housing doesn't provide a good platform for the oring to do its job from then it's a crap part.

Aye, had to buy a thermostat housing for my Mercedes when I had it. Only option available was Uro, casting was sloppy as all hell, and was warped new out of the box, cracked in less than 3 months.

[5mall5nail5]

Yea but if the casting is crap (warped, deforms the oring) then the o-ring can't do its job. Another issue with non oem and some times oem parts is the materials choice for the application. Again if the housing doesn't provide a good platform for the oring to do its job from then it's a crap part.

Sure but so far everyone is taking pictures of grind marks on the outside of the housing and determining they suck. I've run about 20 of these things on various cars without issue.

[ross1]

Uro thermostat housing on my 700 whp car no problems

People need to realize the o-ring seals, not the housing ;)
Not sure what HP has to do with this but the o-ring needs a proper to surface to seal against. The t-stat housing I bought (for a Jag V8) had either no machined surface for the seal or a very poor one, I cannot remember now. That particular piece also has a threaded cap, I could have whittled better threads.
Your application seals against an existing properly machined surface (no?) and is a much simpler design. Even a blind squirrel gets a nut once in a while.
Glad yours works but this craptastic outfit deserves no defense.

[Binjammin]

Not sure what HP has to do with this but the o-ring needs a proper to surface to seal against. The t-stat housing I bought (for a Jag V8) had either no machined surface for the seal or a very poor one, I cannot remember now. That particular piece also has a threaded cap, I could have whittled better threads.
Your application seals against an existing properly machined surface (no?) and is a much simpler design. Even a blind squirrel gets a nut once in a while.
Glad yours works but this craptastic outfit deserves no defense.

In that particular instance it sounds like Uro may have actually improved the factory jag part.

[5mall5nail5]

Not sure what HP has to do with this but the o-ring needs a proper to surface to seal against. The t-stat housing I bought (for a Jag V8) had either no machined surface for the seal or a very poor one, I cannot remember now. That particular piece also has a threaded cap, I could have whittled better threads.
Your application seals against an existing properly machined surface (no?) and is a much simpler design. Even a blind squirrel gets a nut once in a while.
Glad yours works but this craptastic outfit deserves no defense.

HP = heat, heat = pressure, pressure = leaks if they were going to happen. Honestly, the word "Jaguar" and "thermostat housing" should never be considered in terms of a benchmark on quality - my OE Land Rover parts were ridiculously silly in the cooling department.

Again, I've used the Uro t-stat housings probably 5 times on my own motors/cars, and at least that many times again on other builds. I have their part on an M60B30 and three M5x motors of my own right now. I understand yours has issue I am just saying that it's not all damned. I wouldn't use their suspension stuff or anything rubber, but for a cast aluminum t-stat housing they've been fine. I even powder coat them and have no warping/cracking issues at 450F.

[AndrewH]

In that particular instance it sounds like Uro may have actually improved the factory jag part.

Lol.

Also can add 2 sets of e34 front strut mounts to the list. I was poor in college and decided to do mine. First set lasted 2 weeks and I thought it was because of sh*t NYC roads but sure enough the warrantied second pair quite literally sheared in half about a month later.

[xshotgunfacelif]

I bought a Uro fan clutch and blades as a "temporary" fix until I could get an e-fan setup. The clutch itself was bad from the minute I installed it. Every blade on the fan has also chipped and I've just recently lost 2 blades. Junk.

*Edit: now that I think about it, I may have bought Hamburg-Teknik. Either way, same crap. I had some Uro part on my GTI but I forget what it was. Maybe just hatch struts? I can't remember....

[Binjammin]

I bought a Uro fan clutch and blades as a "temporary" fix until I could get an e-fan setup. The clutch itself was bad from the minute I installed it. Every blade on the fan has also chipped and I've just recently lost 2 blades. Junk.

*Edit: now that I think about it, I may have bought Hamburg-Teknik. Either way, same crap. I had some Uro part on my GTI but I forget what it was. Maybe just hatch struts? I can't remember....

It's ok, even if you bought HT parts it's cool to bash URO. I think the thing people are trying to convey is to avoid garbage parts made by companies that have a less than sterling reputation. HT certainly qualifies in that regard.

[Layne]

Wow even the stock fan blades fly apart occasionally with disasterous results (they have to be very old of course), would never consider using a budget brand for that.

[BoldUlysses]

Keep it constructive, gentlemen.

[93FIM5]

Keep it constructive, gentlemen.

What'd you call me!

- - - Updated - - -


Keep it constructive, gentlemen.

Take it back!

[AquilaBMW]

All I can tell you guys is that from what I have seen and know, Uro is a special kind of "bad". Not only customers suffer from their product quality, they have cost suppliers and resellers quite a bit too. Sad part about it is that it could have been different. I am not usually one to bash on a brand or company, but I do stay away from Uro. No matter how dry my pocket is, I'd rather not drive the car than to use Uro even as a temporary fix. Just my opinion.

[5mall5nail5]

All I can tell you guys is that from what I have seen and know, Uro is a special kind of "bad". Not only customers suffer from their product quality, they have cost suppliers and resellers quite a bit too. Sad part about it is that it could have been different. I am not usually one to bash on a brand or company, but I do stay away from Uro. No matter how dry my pocket is, I'd rather not drive the car than to use Uro even as a temporary fix. Just my opinion.

And again, it depends on the part. Suspension, no I won't use Uro. Cast aluminum t-stat housing for M5x motors? Done it over and over and had no issues on many different, very demanding applications.

[gemolken]

I've learned a lot since then :)

We all do. It's important.

[ross1]

HP = heat, heat = pressure, pressure = leaks if they were going to happen. Honestly, the word "Jaguar" and "thermostat housing" should never be considered in terms of a benchmark on quality - my OE Land Rover parts were ridiculously silly in the cooling department.

Again, I've used the Uro t-stat housings probably 5 times on my own motors/cars, and at least that many times again on other builds. I have their part on an M60B30 and three M5x motors of my own right now. I understand yours has issue I am just saying that it's not all damned. I wouldn't use their suspension stuff or anything rubber, but for a cast aluminum t-stat housing they've been fine. I even powder coat them and have no warping/cracking issues at 450F.

Like I said, even a blind squirrel gets a nut once in a while.
I thought the radiator cap regulated cooling system pressure:eek:

Check this out; http://www.apaindustries.com/uro/news/show/21
worse than Lucas I say

[5mall5nail5]

Ross my stance with Land Rover/Jaguar is that if you hold an "OE" or "Dealer provided" part, and then a chinese knock off.... you're almost unable to differentiate. I remember going out of my way to order genuine ABS shuttle valve kits for my Land Rover. I spent like... $80, maybe $100 on the genuine part... I received this:

http://www.roverparts.com/product/img/img/SWO500030_LARGE.jpg

The most brittle plastic with a bunch of wires just strewn all over

Let's be honest - Uro doesn't have a whole lot to work with when reproducing Jaguar/Land Rover parts :rofl

[ross1]

You are preaching to the choir regarding Jag or Rover. I'm a sucker for a pretty face so bought a really nice, low mile, Texas rust free X308 a few years ago and now remember all the reasons I'd sworn a thousand times before I'd never own another Jag.
I feel only slightly better about my buying decision knowing I could have bought a Rover instead.
Uro and Jag are a match made in heaven. I feel sorry for the folks buying this crap thinking it was made in some Coventry "workshop".

[DYL]

^ Jeremy Clarkson once said that "handmade" is another way of saying the door will come off...

[AquilaBMW]

^ Jeremy Clarkson once said that "handmade" is another way of saying the door will come off...

It's part of the design for easy / fast exit.

[xshotgunfacelif]

I bought a Uro fan clutch and blades as a "temporary" fix until I could get an e-fan setup. The clutch itself was bad from the minute I installed it. Every blade on the fan has also chipped and I've just recently lost 2 blades. Junk.

*Edit: now that I think about it, I may have bought Hamburg-Teknik. Either way, same crap. I had some Uro part on my GTI but I forget what it was. Maybe just hatch struts? I can't remember....


It's ok, even if you bought HT parts it's cool to bash URO. I think the thing people are trying to convey is to avoid garbage parts made by companies that have a less than sterling reputation. HT certainly qualifies in that regard.


Wow even the stock fan blades fly apart occasionally with disasterous results (they have to be very old of course), would never consider using a budget brand for that.

Yeah... so... about that... The blades finally gave up the ghost last night in spectacular fashion. Took my fan shroud with it and gave me a nice hole in the radiator. OEM parts en route until I can source an e-fan setup. FML.

[xshotgunfacelif]

Update on my last post...

Turns out that the mount for the fan clutch is what broke. Just sheared right off at the nut. Way to go Hamburg-Teknik...

484177

[Binjammin]

Well that ought to be under warranty.

[5mall5nail5]

Not really - wasn't he talking about the fact that his fan blades were missing. He was spinning the fan out of balance and it broke at the hub, pretty predictable.

[xshotgunfacelif]

Well that ought to be under warranty.

:rofl: I'd rather just replace it with OEM anyway. As Sonny from A Bronx Tale would put it, "That's $20 to never see them again."

- - - Updated - - -


Not really - wasn't he talking about the fact that his fan blades were missing. He was spinning the fan out of balance and it broke at the hub, pretty predictable.

Yeah, those blades were bought new with the fan clutch. They didn't last too long either. It was their failed part that caused their other part to fail. Oh well, you live and you learn.

[5mall5nail5]

Well I mean... if I had a 4 blade helicopter spinning on 3 blades I'd probably consider not flying it...

[xshotgunfacelif]

Well I mean... if I had a 4 blade helicopter spinning on 3 blades I'd probably consider not flying it...

Yeah man, I get it. I can't exactly go up to Autozone for new blades. I was hoping it would hold out until I got an e-fan conversion but it didn't. I'm not upset about it, just contributing to the thread.

[5mall5nail5]

E-fan is one of the worst things you can do for these cars!

[93FIM5]

E-fan is one of the worst things you can do for these cars!

Haha explain please.

[Jmac95E34]

E-fan is one of the worst things you can do for these cars!
What's your reasoning Jon?

[5mall5nail5]

Haha explain please.

No electric fan moves even close to the amount of air the stock engine driven ones do. I have a crazy loud Spal 2700CFM pusher on my car and the temps would creep up at low road speed. Had to put a 9" puller on the backside of the radiator as well - without AC even! The stock puller neeeeeever overheated.

[Layne]

No electric fan moves even close to the amount of air the stock engine driven ones do.

Have you seen the 18.5" 800w fan on the F10's?

[5mall5nail5]

Have you seen the 18.5" 800w fan on the F10's? Draws 42 amps.

Yep I believe it - mine is 16" and draws ~25A

Not sure the 800W fan draws 42A :P 14 * 42 = 588, but yeah

[Layne]

800w should be about 55 amps... maybe the one I saw on youtube wasn't at full power. PWM control is sweeeet.

[5mall5nail5]

800w should be about 55 amps... maybe the one I saw on youtube wasn't at full power. PWM control is sweeeet.

PWM fan control is great - i might get a controller - right now when my two fans hit on it makes the ECU hiccup. Even though my voltage correction is setup well its just so hard to account for a sudden instantaneous voltage drop.

[93FIM5]

Beat me to it Layne, my E60 M5 fan is 850w lol. As I'm sure you know Jon you're also demanding a lot from a fan setup with your intercooler and radiator configuration.

- - - Updated - - -


PWM fan control is great - i might get a controller - right now when my two fans hit on it makes the ECU hiccup. Even though my voltage correction is setup well its just so hard to account for a sudden instantaneous voltage drop.

A good fan thread would be fun here in a month or so:devillook

[AZDinanE34]

I have a high performance permacool aluminum blade electric fan 2950cfm 9.8amps on my radiator with the stock aux fan up front and never creeps past the half mark (stays a tad left of the middle), even in 120deg weather here in AZ. It works great and I don't have to worry about the blades breaking off.

To keep to the thread id say URO stuff is bad, but I do use there radiator hoses which work just fine

[5mall5nail5]

Sorry but no fan in the < 16" range moves 2900 cfm at 9.8A it's simply not possible.

If you check out the FI section you'll see that most of us do not recommend an electric fan if possible but some applications have to have it.

[xshotgunfacelif]

As much as I hate to derail this thread further, I feel I have to post something when someone thinks they "know all". I know you have tons of experience with FI setups in the E34 chassis, and that's wonderful for people who have FI setups, but you just come off as an elitist douche when you start telling people they're wrong and that something isn't good enough because it doesn't cool your 700hp FI setup with a 6in. intercooler core sitting in front of half your radiator. Many people have had great experiences with an e-fan setup on a lightly modified daily-driven setup and I can pull up the many threads if you really need me to. I'd rather an electric fan that may not cool quite as well, yet still does the job, as opposed to worrying about my blades giving up the ghost and flying into my radiator or cooling hoses at Mach chicken. I don't mean to come off angry or hostile as I know you have a wealth of information that you're always willing to share but sometimes you just need to sit one out.

Oh, and here's the fan AZDinanE34 has (or at least a similar one).
2950 max CFM @ 9.8amp draw: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-19115/overview/

If you want to continue discussing fans, then make a different thread or convince someone else to. Back to discussing just eBay parts... :D

[AZDinanE34]

I guess thats what its listed at :/ (not arguing your wisdom or knowledge Jon). I guess it works for me, also I don't like the regular straight blade plastic-compond fans as the blades crack after years in the heat. Is there a popular FI electrical fan setup for those that have to use that kind of setup?

[Binjammin]

As much as I hate to derail this thread further, I feel I have to post something when someone thinks they "know all". I know you have tons of experience with FI setups in the E34 chassis, and that's wonderful for people who have FI setups, but you just come off as an elitist douche when you start telling people they're wrong and that something isn't good enough because it doesn't cool your 700hp FI setup with a 6in. intercooler core sitting in front of half your radiator. Many people have had great experiences with an e-fan setup on a lightly modified daily-driven setup and I can pull up the many threads if you really need me to. I'd rather an electric fan that may not cool quite as well, yet still does the job, as opposed to worrying about my blades giving up the ghost and flying into my radiator or cooling hoses at Mach chicken. I don't mean to come off angry or hostile as I know you have a wealth of information that you're always willing to share but sometimes you just need to sit one out.

Oh, and here's the fan AZDinanE34 has (or at least a similar one).
2950 max CFM @ 9.8amp draw: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-19115/overview/

If you want to continue discussing fans, then make a different thread or convince someone else to. Back to discussing just eBay parts... :D

So you feel that even though Jon is a wealth of knowledge, sometimes he should just sit back and not share it, because you feel he has some kind of attitude?

Is that what you're getting at?

[xshotgunfacelif]

So you feel that even though Jon is a wealth of knowledge, sometimes he should just sit back and not share it, because you feel he has some kind of attitude?

Is that what you're getting at?

Not at all. Just when he says things like:


Sorry but no fan in the < 16" range moves 2900 cfm at 9.8A it's simply not possible.

when that's what the part is rated as, it ruins his credibility. He has a wealth of FI knowledge but there's no sense in spreading misinformation. I, for one, would like him to reply and prove me wrong (in a calm and non-condescending manner, of course) as I'm always willing to learn and do not want to spread misinformation myself. Just wanted to show him that what he said was incorrect as far as I (and AZ) know because that's what it's advertised as. We all know that advertised numbers don't always line up with real-world figures though.

[Binjammin]

Not at all. Just when he says things like:



when that's what the part is rated as, it ruins his credibility. He has a wealth of FI knowledge but there's no sense in spreading misinformation. I, for one, would like him to reply and prove me wrong (in a calm and non-condescending manner, of course) as I'm always willing to learn and do not want to spread misinformation myself. Just wanted to show him that what he said was incorrect as far as I (and AZ) know because that's what it's advertised as. We all know that advertised numbers don't always line up with real-world figures though.

He probably will. I imagine he's either busy or sleeping currently, as it's late, but I don't think he's one to back down from backing up anything he's got to say, and he usually doesn't make blanket statements without good reason.

For the record, everybody is wrong sometimes. Nobody is 100% infallible. If he's wrong this time, do you REALLY think it's going to ruin his credibility? Jesus man, it's not like he stole your purse or something. If someone is wrong, and they learn from it, that's called life.


The funny thing is that you call Jon out for attitude, expect a patient reply like he owes something to you, and in the same breath you make the same baseless statements you're accusing him of. :rolleyes

[xshotgunfacelif]

Judging from previous posts and threads of his, I wouldn't take him as that sort of person. He just failed to back it up when he made the initial statement so I felt compelled to share the advertisement with the claimed specs of said fan. I still think someone more knowledgable on the topic than I make a thread for fan discussion as to not derail this thread any further. This is starting to feel like off-topic night.

[5mall5nail5]

Judging from previous posts and threads of his, I wouldn't take him as that sort of person. He just failed to back it up when he made the initial statement so I felt compelled to share the advertisement with the claimed specs of said fan. I still think someone more knowledgable on the topic than I make a thread for fan discussion as to not derail this thread any further. This is starting to feel like off-topic night.

Considering how much volume is moved by the stock fan, it's size, and the HP of the engine turning it, its very easy to put the piece together as to how much the factory mechanical fan offers over an electric fan. That said, the factory fans on M50 motors with properly operating clutches are said to move about 4500 CFM or so when needed - and that's the thing - when needed. The viscous clutch is designed to only allow so many RPM to transmit through the unit and at varying temperatures whereas with an electric fan (without PWM or standalone ECU control) it's either on or off at a set point (using the stock temp switch) or an aftermarket janky thermal probe. That said, the fan you linked to is almost 4" thick. I don't know if that will work on most setups. We cannot consider using fans more than 2.5" thick for clearance issues on the cars I am used to seeing convert.

But, since I am being semi called out here, if you go ahead and look in the perma cool catalog for 19115 you'll see that it's stated as drawing 11 amps right in their catalog, not 9.8 like summit quotes and further they require a 30A (and thus supporting wiring) to install - fan start up current is SIGNIFICANTLY higher than the rated current and honestly it's likely momentarily higher than 30A as well. It is for this reason that I am skeptical that it moves 2900+ CFM or that it draws only 9.8A which seems to be an incorrect figure on Summit racings web page. So, given that their manual says 11A and summit says 9.8A, and not having even caught that, I don't think I was very wrong for saying "No 16" fan moves 2900+ cfm at 9.8A" and it would appear as though I maintain being right about that.

[xshotgunfacelif]

Great post! Thanks for the info.

To keep is on topic... who is running a Uro fan? :D

[jeffary]

Crap, I just put on some URO idler pulleys lol. Anyone have any experience with their pullies?

[cochise325]

You are preaching to the choir regarding Jag or Rover. I'm a sucker for a pretty face so bought a really nice, low mile, Texas rust free X308 a few years ago and now remember all the reasons I'd sworn a thousand times before I'd never own another Jag.
I feel only slightly better about my buying decision knowing I could have bought a Rover instead.
Uro and Jag are a match made in heaven. I feel sorry for the folks buying this crap thinking it was made in some Coventry "workshop".

Oh that Range Rover is "the Queens car". That is enough for some people to fall for it. I have known many people who bought them even after being informed that the cost was high and the quality was low. BMW nearly went broke trying to "fix" Rover. Then they wised up and sold it before it took them down.

[AndrewH]

Crap, I just put on some URO idler pulleys lol. Anyone have any experience with their pullies?

Most likely be in 12 pieces before you finish typing your post.

[ross1]

Time for a bump to this thread.
A cheapskate friend ordered Uro hood struts for his E34. They hold the hood up alright, so strong in fact that with both new ones pulling the hood release you could launch a lightweight object from the front of the hood. He put one of the old dead ones back to compensate and not damage something with the shock every time the hood was raised.
Another shining example of stellar quality control from Uro.
Does it look similar to the OE part? Okay then!

[E38740iMD]

Ok so, on a video clipped I watched comparing the e34 m5 and the f10 M5. When they popped the hood. The hood would launch up and all you have to do is raise it from the windshield. On bad struts for the e34 you have pull, raise at front of hood, and raise at windsheild.

Unless you really mean when you pull he cable the car itself would launch up from the shock

[BleedsBlue]

The "normal" hood popping on an E34, while it definitely won't work w/ shot hood struts, still won't work with brand new OEM struts if the thing isn't aligned properly (ask me how I know).

This is the opposite of typical URO failures in that usually their part is too soft/weak. Hilarious.

[demetk]

Time for a bump to this thread.
A cheapskate friend ordered Uro hood struts for his E34. They hold the hood up alright, so strong in fact that with both new ones pulling the hood release you could launch a lightweight object from the front of the hood. He put one of the old dead ones back to compensate and not damage something with the shock every time the hood was raised.
Another shining example of stellar quality control from Uro.
Does it look similar to the OE part? Okay then!

Not sure what brand mine are but they tried to do the same thing. I compensated by disconnecting the spring. BTW, my name is sometimes cheapskate and I feel awful about it.

[S61Dan]

Not sure what brand mine are but they tried to do the same thing. I compensated by disconnecting the spring. BTW, my name is sometimes cheapskate and I feel awful about it.

Mine are a half decent brand I forget what kind but, my hood shoots up fast as well. I just hold the the edge of the hood with one hand and pop the hood with the other.

[URO Parts]

Hi ross1,

We checked the compression force on several of our E34 hood struts (Part# 51231944119) and ours match Stabilius (OEM). The pictures below are in kilonewtons. Can you please have your friend email us so we can get his back to check them and send him out some replacements if necessary?

544362544363

I also saw that this original thread had to do with our aluminum Jaguar t-stat housing kit. I truly apologize. We did have an issue with our tooling a while back that has been resolved for quite some time. Would you like a replacement at no charge to have a look?

[Tre0Tre34]

My hood doesn't pop up automatically when released... New Sachs maybe even Genuine.

Is is the hood really supposed to open fully by pulling the release? Seems like you would want it to stay closed until lifted past a certain pivot point... Just like my assisted open knives.

BTW, new trunk struts operate in the same manner. Pops about an inch, then the user needs to lift a couple more inches till opening itself the rest of the way

[ross1]

Hi ross1,

We checked the compression force on several of our E34 hood struts (Part# 51231944119) and ours match Stabilius (OEM). The pictures below are in kilonewtons. Can you please have your friend email us so we can get his back to check them and send him out some replacements if necessary?

544362544363

I also saw that this original thread had to do with our aluminum Jaguar t-stat housing kit. I truly apologize. We did have an issue with our tooling a while back that has been resolved for quite some time. Would you like a replacement at no charge to have a look?

Your tooling was what, a corroded original to copy? It sure looked that way
Old Chinese proverb; When you find yourself in the bottom of a hole, stop digging.

[E38740iMD]

Well I didn't know uro was a supporting vendor. My brother bought an aluminum e36 thermostat housing.....luckily this one wasn't warped on arrival. If anything happens to it I'll contact you

[BleedsBlue]

Is is the hood really supposed to open fully by pulling the release?

Not fully, just to the same position you describe for the trunk. When it's misaligned like mine, the lever just unlatches the hood; I have to go the front of the car and pull the up another inch before I can lift it open.

[S61Dan]

I also didn't know that. Looks like they are a "new member". I am sure that a lot of members have some things to say about URO products. I have bought a few URO suspension parts and I will NEVER buy them again.

[Adi25]

I put new Stabilus hood struts on my E32 earlier this spring. I felt that it popped up hard as well, I thought after a while it would soften up after a few uses but hasn't yet. I wonder if it should be something to look into...

[demetk]

I put new Stabilus hood struts on my E32 earlier this spring. I felt that it popped up hard as well, I thought after a while it would soften up after a few uses but hasn't yet. I wonder if it should be something to look into...

A fix for this is to simply disconnect the spring on the hood bar.