Newly Acquired 530I

[Jsamora]

Hello guys,


I acquired a 1995 530I sedan that has 246,xxx miles, a couple of days ago, when I picked it up it was smoking terribly and would not idle properly (it would idle at 500 then drop so low all the dash lights would come on but would go back up enough for the lights to go off). First thing I did was change the spark plugs because the person I got it from did not do a tune up in the 7 years he owned it, the plugs were terrible. I started it and it still would not idle properly and still smoked, the air filter is new. I did a compression test after checking the oil an coolant to see if they mixed, which thankfully they hadn't, the compression test ranged from 150 to 160 which from what I can find is in spec.. I am completely stumped on what could be going on.. If you have any ideas or question please feel free to ask! Also, here is a video I took of how it is idling thinking maybe that'll help with the diagnosis!
http://youtu.be/tRTPXledmrk

P.S. I also did the stomp test and got codes 1213 and 1221

TIA
Julian

[UKinNYinAUS]

person didn't do a tune up in 7 years!!!! you may have some work to do...!

Injector flush, replace fuel filter, change oil (after engine flush i suppose) and replace the thermostat and water pump.

[Sir Montalbon]

I bought my touring with your same motor (M60B30) in 2009. It had 92kmi and threw both the 1213 and 1221 codes, along with the occasional smoke screen after taking a left turn (PCV plate). Your issues sound like classic M60 vacuum leaks, and with that mileage and no maintenance done in 7 years, I would start with replacing all intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and the PCV plate at the back of the intake manifold. This seems almost standard operating procdure for any M60 of unkown character. Also, a new set of o2 sensors won't hurt. Search the forum for the part number for a set of generic Bosch o2's. Two cost less than the price of one OEM and they have served me well for three years now. All of those things are good maintenance items on an M60, especially one that has been neglected so long. If you still have running problems, it may be time for a new MAF, but trying cleaning the original one first with MAF cleaner.

Good luck and welcome. We seem to have a lot of GA members these days.

[atl530i]

Welcome.

Here is a list (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1791197-Valley-Pan-R-amp-R-parts-reference-sheet) of what you need to R&R the intake and PCV system. I would recommend (as others have as well) to replace the 4 knock sensors that are under the intake manifold. If they ever fail, you will be taking off the intake manifold again. Other things you may want to take a look at are cooling system parts, if it still has the plastic t-stat housing replace it for the aluminum part, water pump, and radiator hoses. Check the engine mounts for failure and the suspension for worn bushings.

Someone mentioned O2 sensors, here is the thread for that (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1643997-The-fnal-Oxygen-%28O2%29-sensor-thread).

If the PCV plate gets bad enough, it'll make a squealing noise (best way I can explain it) after running it for a while. I thought it was a pulley at first. Here is a video of my E34.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TX05TqLuZT0

[roadsterred]

Your oil separator diaphragm enclosed in the back of your intake manifold may have failed. You'll need to remove the intake manifold to get to it. Also, replace the intake manifold seals to ensure a good seal when you reinstall the intake.

The diaphragm on my '94 540i failed several years ago and it took me months and expensive parts (O2 sensors, ignition coils, sparkplugs, etc.) to finally find the culprit

[Jsamora]

Your oil separator diaphragm enclosed in the back of your intake manifold may have failed. You'll need to remove the intake manifold to get to it. Also, replace the intake manifold seals to ensure a good seal when you reinstall the intake.

The diaphragm on my '94 540i failed several years ago and it took me months and expensive parts (O2 sensors, ignition coils, sparkplugs, etc.) to finally find the culprit


You are all awesome, thanks for all of the suggestions, after reading them I priced all of the stuff suggested planned on spending about $500 or $600 to fix it. However, I called the PO and he called his shop and asked them to print off all of the invoices of work done to it, when I went to pick it up the mechanic asked what was wrong and I explained, he then asked me to take it in because it could have been warranty work. I took the car down and he told me it is the pcv valve, which I'm assuming is the Oil Separator because he said it is right behind the manifold and said I could change it by removing coolant reservoir, He said the computer would have to be reset after, how true is that? Does anyone have the part number to the oil separator? I have searched for DIYs on changing it and came up with one for an E39, I'm trying to find out what sizes of torx I need to remove it? Talking with his mechanic I was assured all of the Intake seals and stuff has been replaced, he said the only thing not done was the PCV Valve.

[atl530i]

Does the mechanic have any records of the intake gaskets being replaced? If not, I would replace the gaskets also. It's also easier to replace the PCV plate with the intake off the car, less of chance of stripping the torx bolts. A lot of people have been replacing the torx bolts with regular hex head bolts also.

[Jsamora]

Thanks for all the help! I have not been able to get the invoices from the mechanic, he's being an a$$hole about printing them off for me! I was told to take intake off and replace the crankcase vent valve which has been being referred to as the pcv plate. However, I was told to replace all the hoses that go to it, would anyone be able to give me part numbers for the hoses and any seals that are needed? I looked at the link posted earlier but am tight on cash right now so im just trying to do what is completely necessary!

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[Sir Montalbon]

The hoses are mostly generic vacuum hoses that can be had at most any parts store. Just take in your old hoses and find something similar. As for part numbers, http://www.realoem.com is a great source. Just put in the last 7 digits of your VIN number to select your car, then you can find lots of helpful diagrams and part numbers for the various systems of your car. Here are a few examples of what you are probably looking for:

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HE23&mospid=47406&btnr=11_4862&hg=11&fg=15
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HE23&mospid=47406&btnr=11_1498&hg=11&fg=40
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HE23&mospid=47406&btnr=11_4953&hg=11&fg=45

[thatonedood]

Yeah the "PCV plate" can be called about a half dozen things, can be confusing. It sounds like this (http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=ghhutw45e30lex2n1yozt255&makeid=800003@BMW&modelid=1012442@540I&year=1995&cid=19@Emission%20System&gid=4968@EGR%20Valve) is what you're looking for:
http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/11617501562.jpg

IIRC, there may have been one small hose leading to it. http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb190/tint45/hmmmmmmm.gif Then there are two caps for it, which are mentioned in the first thread atl530i posted. I'd get the plate, gasket, caps for sure. But you may need the intake runner gaskets as well. The only way you'll know for sure is to inspect the old ones once the intake is off. You said money is tight, but I'd pick up new ones so you don't have to wait on them after you've got everything apart.

[Jsamora]

Thanks all, I went back over one of the first posts and am planning on getting the ccv (pcv plate), and gaskets that have to be removed, if I remember correctly it recommended the intake gaskets, ccv gasket, throttle body gasket and a couple orings!

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[K Fox]

Check out that thread linked to above - I wrote it. It has all of the part numbers you need, and I broke it down by section. You need everything in the intake section to do it right - intake runner gaskets, front and rear end gaskets, throttle body to ASC elbow gasket, air temp sensor gasket, the two vacuum caps on the PCV plate itself along with that PCV plate, the front o-ring for the PCV drain pipe (the rear one comes on the new plate), and you really should get new injector o-rings and do those while it apart (16 total, get a couple extra just in case). That's the basics for the intake - everything else is 'while you're in there' kinda work that makes sense if you have the cash to do it. But all of the gaskets themselves and the plate are less than $200, and that's counting that you want to spend the extra $30 for an actual BMW plate - don't go aftermarket here as they don't last at all. There is also a small vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator on the PCV plate, but that (as mentioned above) is best acquired locally - just take the old one to a parts store and get a new one the right size. That's also easy to change with everything on the car, so it's not as critical, though it can be a vacuum leak source.

Fox

[Jsamora]

Thanks kfox, thats the post I was referring to! I did the math and I came up with about $170 with the parts being shipped! I did plan on only using BMW oem on the parts and figured the Orings and gaskets should be ok from another manufact! Although I couldn't source the plugs so I was planning on stopping by bmw today! I

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[Jsamora]

Peete of this forum came by today to read and clear the code with the peake tool, however it kept giving an error and wouldnt work, does anyone know why it would error out?

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[Jsamora]

So I've been buying the parts in Kfox's post, I'm just curious, is the Valley Pan seal completely necessary? I can't find just the seal all I find is the whole Valley Pan which is $70 to $90 and is out of budget at this point!

[K Fox]

So I've been buying the parts in Kfox's post, I'm just curious, is the Valley Pan seal completely necessary? I can't find just the seal all I find is the whole Valley Pan which is $70 to $90 and is out of budget at this point!

Um, if the valley pan is leaking, then yes - the ~$80 valley pan is needed. They updated the design somewhere in the past to the current version, which is the impregnated rubber one. The good thing is that it's a permanent fix - they don't leak eventually like the original ones do. Just don't over-torque it on install and you're fine. And if yours isn't leaking, I'd still seriously consider replacing it while everything is apart - simply because you'll be doing all that labor again if it does decide to start leaking. the only way I would not do it is if I had service records showing it being replaced previously - that would mean it already has the updated part, and shouldn't ever be an issue. Without paperwork though, I'd do it.

Fox

[Jsamora]

Thanks fox. I finally got the work done, however the valley pan was not leaking so I opted not to do it at this time! I did however change all the torx heads to hex head bolts! It runs like a champ now. The only problem I'm having now is the shifter will not stay in place properly, it seems as if it has a spring that pushes it a little forward and makes the sensor think its out of gear, but it still drives as if It does just stays in one gear! So when I put it in Drive, the dash says AD if I hold the shifter but once I let go it just shows an A. Anyone had this problem before?

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