Absolutjh22
04-10-2013, 03:25 PM
2001 E38 740i Sport 80,9xx miles, build date 03/2001, build code GG83
So my 1yr old remanufactured-alternator died a few weeks ago...
Step 1: Replace Battery (done)
Step 2: Replace alternator (done)
Step 3: Replace all applicable H2O gaskets, Valley Pan, Intake Manifold gaskets, O-Rings, Oil breather tube & gaskets (done)
Step 4: Replace coolant, purge system, replace radiator cap (accidentally closed the hood on it), confirm coolant levels (done)
Here's where the gremlin comes in.
My battery light will flicker on/off at idle and the new battery does not seem to maintain a full charge. Voltage reads 12.75v at jumper post of engine bay and 12.25v at battery. I get a very small metallic sound at start-up, which immediately goes away.
I have on-hand the Adjusting Pulley Tensioner #11-28-1-709-613-M40 however I'm unsure how to test the old one to know if it is shot?
I am considering that the bearings on the adjusting pulley tensioner assembly are going bad, however when I did the above mentioned work I spun the wheels and they seemed to spin with no adverse friction.
Of note: after re-assembly I was getting the "check coolant level" message so I bought a new sensor thinking that the 3 yur old one may have died. Went to put it in last night and found that I had failed to reconnect the old sensor. After reconnecting the coolant level sensor the message went away. Sweet. However, when testing the voltage prior to reconnecting that sensor I was getting a reading of 11.6v, after it was reconnected I am reading 12.75v. Hmmm... So I put the new battery on an automatic charger at 10 amps, and left it on overnight. Charger indicated FULL this a.m, however upon start-up the battery light flickered on/off until I revved the engine above idle.
I am hopeful that its just the tensioner, but maybe I am missing a relay etc somewhere that one of you can point me in the direction of. I am driving this car to Colorado, with my 6 year old daugher, on Friday and would like to feel as though the car is sorted prior to leaving. If its not sorted out soon, I'm going to throw-in the towel and sell this money-pit of a car. I hate to say that, but it seems that these "common" problems should have been sorted out by BMW engineers. There is no reason a $70,000 car should continue to have so many issues, especially in its final months of production.
Any helpful input would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
So my 1yr old remanufactured-alternator died a few weeks ago...
Step 1: Replace Battery (done)
Step 2: Replace alternator (done)
Step 3: Replace all applicable H2O gaskets, Valley Pan, Intake Manifold gaskets, O-Rings, Oil breather tube & gaskets (done)
Step 4: Replace coolant, purge system, replace radiator cap (accidentally closed the hood on it), confirm coolant levels (done)
Here's where the gremlin comes in.
My battery light will flicker on/off at idle and the new battery does not seem to maintain a full charge. Voltage reads 12.75v at jumper post of engine bay and 12.25v at battery. I get a very small metallic sound at start-up, which immediately goes away.
I have on-hand the Adjusting Pulley Tensioner #11-28-1-709-613-M40 however I'm unsure how to test the old one to know if it is shot?
I am considering that the bearings on the adjusting pulley tensioner assembly are going bad, however when I did the above mentioned work I spun the wheels and they seemed to spin with no adverse friction.
Of note: after re-assembly I was getting the "check coolant level" message so I bought a new sensor thinking that the 3 yur old one may have died. Went to put it in last night and found that I had failed to reconnect the old sensor. After reconnecting the coolant level sensor the message went away. Sweet. However, when testing the voltage prior to reconnecting that sensor I was getting a reading of 11.6v, after it was reconnected I am reading 12.75v. Hmmm... So I put the new battery on an automatic charger at 10 amps, and left it on overnight. Charger indicated FULL this a.m, however upon start-up the battery light flickered on/off until I revved the engine above idle.
I am hopeful that its just the tensioner, but maybe I am missing a relay etc somewhere that one of you can point me in the direction of. I am driving this car to Colorado, with my 6 year old daugher, on Friday and would like to feel as though the car is sorted prior to leaving. If its not sorted out soon, I'm going to throw-in the towel and sell this money-pit of a car. I hate to say that, but it seems that these "common" problems should have been sorted out by BMW engineers. There is no reason a $70,000 car should continue to have so many issues, especially in its final months of production.
Any helpful input would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.