Broken Timing Guide Replacement on My First BMW

[Soul Shinobi]

Gentlemen,

I've come into a 1992 318i (M42 engine) made in 08/92. I got it for a good price because the man who owned it didn't have time to make it the track car he wanted to. It was in the middle of a timing chain replacement because the stock driver's side timing guide broke. I'm working on fixing that, and need advice on how far to go as well as other things to look out for.


CONDITION:

Engine:

Head/cams/cam sprockets look new
Water pump looks new
Already cleaned out the oil pan and pickup
Oil pump is off



PARTS:

Have:

All timing related gaskets
Front main seal
All new timing guides (the one that replaces the broken one is entirely plastic, I assume these newer ones are better?)
New timing tensioner
New timing chain
Valve cover gasket
Coolant (Prestone)


Need:

Oil (15W40 spec'ed for summer, I plan on synthetic, what do you suggest?)
Oil filter (11421727300 $10.85)
Thermostat gasket (11531721218 $1.81)
Thermostat housing gasket (11531721172 $8.44)
Water pump gasket (11511714519 $6.96)
Dipstick tube gasket (11431287541 $1.19)
Spark plug tube gaskets (11121721476 x3 $1.79, 11121721475 $2.13)
Oil pickup gasket (11411727662 $2.42)
Tube under intake for idle air control

Subtotal $60ish

Considering:

Oil pump (11141714611 $51.5)
Oil filter housing gaskets (11421709513 $2.88, 11421709800 $2.42)
Oil pump gaskets (11141743032 or 11141739868 $22.71, 11141247849 $7.94)

Subtotal $84.57

Secondary Consideration:

Thermostat (11537511083 $47.64)
Idle gear (11311727569 $137.97)
Crank sprocket (11211247338 $62.77)

Subtotal $248.38?!


Alright, so right now my question is how deep do I get into the engine, and what else do I look out for? I'm trying to balance budget against the list of "Well while you're in there..." items.

I was on the fence about the oil pump, then my friend removed it behind my back (30 bolts?!) so I guess I'm doing that. Part cost isn't bad but did I list all the ones I need?

So far I've removed the oil pan and cleaned it out along with the oil pickup. Lots of plastic, I only saw a single metal flake. The old timing chain is off, I found specs for the cam holding tool and made one myself so the cams and crank are locked in place as specified by the Bently manual.



I have the Bently Manual and have ordered the Chilton manual and 101 Performance Projects for Your BMW 3 Series.

I'm on Bimmer Fest, Bimmer Forums, and M42 Club.

I'm told www.pelicanparts.com (http://www.pelicanparts.com) and www.fcpeuro.com (http://www.fcpeuro.com) are good places to buy parts. The prices I've listed here are from www.realoem.com (http://www.realoem.com) (good part diagrams), but I don't know if there are aftermarket parts better than the OEM ones I've listed.

Anything else I need / need to know?

Thanks!

[balance 740]

I'd first find out if the M42 is an interference motor, to decide if you should take the head off and check the valves or put the timing chain/guides back on and do a compression test.

[flyfishvt]

M42 is definately an interface motor. I would be very concerned with valve damage. Get the head off and have it check out. Tested for cracks and decked flat. While they are at it they can replace the valve stem seals and inspect the valves. Wouldn't be a bad idea to have them at least "lap" the valves. That should run around $200-300 and its worth every penny. The stem seals will be included in the head gasket kit. Those kits run around $250 and you'll need new head bolts. Another $15-20.

You should seriously consider doing the rear main seal too. You may not see any leaks from it but I'm betting its pretty sludged up. They tend to leak very very slowly and it forms a thick layer of goo around the seal. As it gets worse it starts to drip out of the back of the engne. You'll be very surprised at how hard and brittle it is compared to the new one. Even if its not leaking. The front seal will give you a pretty good glimpse of the condition of the rear.

I just tore apart an M50. After that experience I highly recomend getting a bottom end gasket kit and you'll need a head gasket kit. Every gasket and oring you could possibly need will be included. The lower end kits are only about $45 and they include both front and rear main seals.

[Soul Shinobi]

While these are no doubt good suggestions for a car I would want to invest in, currently anything involving taking off the head will increase my current investment as much as 50%.

It is interference, but it seems that timing only skipped one tooth (assuming I didn't do that myself as I set it to TDC, which I think may be the case). I've manually rotated the engine one revolution and it seemed smooth.

I basically was going to risk it while trying not to spend more than $200 on parts getting it back together. Sounds crude, but my mechanic friend is confident the head is more than likely good, and I can currently recoup what I paid for the car parting it out even with a trashed engine. The previous owner bought all the new timing guides/chain/seals then had to get rid of it in a hurry which is why my investment is so low.

[flyfishvt]

You said the timing chain broke. To almost all of us that means the possibility of catistrophic damage. If it only skipped a tooth then you're probably ok. Of course we didn't know any of that info until you just put it up. You didn't post your budget or your plans for the car. If you're just hoping to put it all back together and hope for the best then you dont really need our help with that.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[Soul Shinobi]

Sorry, much of this is seat-of-the pants for me right now, I'm trying to be organized with my information but I know I'm falling short a bit. :stickoutt I did state in the first paragraph that the timing guide (driver's side) broke, however. I'll try to update the first post as I collect my thoughts.

[balance 740]

Personally, I'd at least do a compression test to be sure. Turning the crank will not always reveal a bent valve, and who knows what the conditions were when the timing chain guide broke.

If a valve is bent, the cylinder will not hold compression.

[Soul Shinobi]

Late update: It's all back together, compression test looked good, and it drives nice. Unfortunately it's leaking oil badly from where the oil pump mates to the block (upper left corner if looking at the front of the block). The gasket I ordered was mistakenly for 94+ engines, though I'm not convinced that's the issue, I recall them looking the same, and they're both steel. I got the right gasket in (still waiting on other parts) which to my surprise was paper. Not looking forward to taking it apart again but at least now things are cleaner and parts are all accounted for.

Having a hell of a time with the driver's outside door handle (new replacement) and the window on that door, but that's another story, I need to search around.

God I miss working on Japanese cars, they spoiled me so much. :stickoutt Everything's a learning experience. :)

[flyfishvt]

As far as I know the entire oil pump is encased in the oil pan. How can you tell of its leaking?

[Soul Shinobi]

The E36 M42 motor is a little bit different than the E30 version (and yes, I'm sure I don't have an M44). The oil pump bolts straight back on the front of the motor. Here's a picture of it:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/b/z/2.png

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/b/l/52.png

In the second diagram it's leaking near the bolt hole just below the "1----" except on the back side.

[jmo69]

As far as I know the entire oil pump is encased in the oil pan. How can you tell of its leaking?I think he means the water pump.

[Soul Shinobi]

Oh no, I mean oil pump housing (which is the back part of the lower timing case). It's external to the engine on late M42's (maybe for just a year or two?) I'm under the impression the design is the same as the M44. Technically it's not the pump itself, but a passage in an upper part of the housing that's leaking.

I made a post with pictures of it but it's pending moderator approval (presumably because of my low post count).

[warrenbrown]

Soul

Hopefully you have been able to solve your oil leak. If so I want to understand if you feel it was the gasket #3 behind the large timing chain housing #1. If so were you able to replace it without removing the head and or oil pan. I think that part (item #1) is sandwiched between the head and oil pan. Profile gasket #10 was notorious for failing on E30 cars in the early days.

The reason I ask is a I have a 97 318i that has developed a oil leak on the exhaust side and somehow I think it is the gasket between the large timing chain housing and the block. Obviously the timing chane cover gasket woild be much easier to replace.

Have you been able to figure out what the difference is between the 11141743032 and 11141739868 is?

Thanks
Warren