E36 Overheating problem (New waterpump, tstat, hoses, radiator,etc....)

[Pettas]

So.... with my usual luck, my car is overheating within the first 5 minutes or less driving. It is a dedicated track car, and this is the first event that I have done for a while. It had issues getting hot due to no aux fan(broken), so I replaced that along with the thermostat. Bled the system, went for a drive, the first street or 2 it rises up. Figured, what the hell, went and replaced the water pump too. Still, the same problem. I have ran water through the radiator, and everything appears to be functional, water has no problem flowing. I also ended up drilling holes in the thermostat to ensure that it was indeed letting water flow through.

Track day is in 4 days, and I am at a loss, literally of $325 for the registration if I can not get this working. Please let me know what you think it could/might be, thanks.

[slocar]

I'm usually not the one to say it, but if it overheats within 5 minutes of starting, the only thing I'd be looking at is the headgasket.

[Pettas]

Yeah, I was thinking of head gasket, however it shows no symptoms of it. The coolant is always clean, the same with the oil. Not sure how else to check the head gasket.

[Auto Parts Guy]

sounds like all the air is not out of the system.. do you have hot heat?

[shoman24v]

Bleeding it takes some time. Redo it.

[Pettas]

Ok, I officially feel like an idiot. I put the thermostat gasket in, then the thermostat, then the thermostat housing. This caused the whole issue, everything is done and fixed. Thanks for the feedback.

[mgoods50]

I'm just glad to find out I'm not the only one who might do something I'd rather not admit later== ha ha.

I'm thinking seriously about buying a new snap on tool I found out about- you use it to pull a vacuum on the entire system, then fill the circuit with no bleeding / mess / drips / spills at all. Not entirely sure how it works- but it seems pretty cool.

Yes, I'm a tool guy- and I know bleeding can be done without a $260 tool that also requires an air supply. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/parts/pro_det.asp?Item_id=53351&group_id=12766 (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=643141&group_ID=681175&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog)

[epmedia]

Ok, I officially feel like an idiot. I put the thermostat gasket in, then the thermostat, then the thermostat housing. This caused the whole issue, everything is done and fixed. Thanks for the feedback.
Soo, you you were loosing coolant?

[brice017]

Mgoods50,

I bought this tool called the Airlift Radiator Tool
http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/UVW-550000.html
(http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/UVW-550000.html)
130 but I think they can be found for less on ebay. They also have a cheaper model for 80'ish.

Best money ever spent IMO, no more bleeding the system.

[pjo33us]

You guys suck... now I need to buy another tool! Sweet.

[Pettas]

Negative, I was not losing coolant, it was somehow not circulating, creating pressure and obvious heat.

[JumpManLT]

Since this thread is about cooling system a quick question:
Should I be worried if temperature needle does not sit in the middle but slightly to the right about 1-2mm?

[Turbohugh]

Since you may not be ODBII if its stable I wouldn't worry.. However if you are 'worried' add a coolant gauge. You can either drill a hole in the thermostat housing or (if you have one with a bleed hole in the house) add the sensor to the bleed hole .

[ChuckDizzle]

Yeah, I was thinking of head gasket, however it shows no symptoms of it. The coolant is always clean, the same with the oil. Not sure how else to check the head gasket.

Perform a leakdown test to verify. I had a blown headgasket between cylinders 1 & 2 without loss of coolant or mixing into the oil.

[mgoods50]

Yup- I know. I finally decided I deserved to have decent toys to play with. Recently replaced most of my everyday stuff (1/4, 3/8, 1/2" drive tools, pliers etc.) with new SO, then have been adding cool stuff like compression tester, leakdown, and a digital multimeter. I have crappy hands so I've been buying a bunch of that comfort handle stuff- and it has made a WORLD of difference. That- and the fact that the regular length 1/2" drive ratchet I bought a lot longer than my previous ratchet. I even bit the bullet and got a 24" breaker- but I can't see myself ever needing it.


You guys suck... now I need to buy another tool! Sweet.

- - - Updated - - -

+1 on potential HG. It AMAZES me how many I've seen lately-- I'm beginning to wonder if I have some curse following me around ha ha ha

[snaponbob]

I few added comments.

1) AT Pettas - OOPS. And salutations for both getting it solved AND admitting to the problem !!
2) Sold S.O. for 20 years. To the guys suggesting the vacuum systems - they DO work. BUT, no always. They make filling easier, but if there is a hardware problem (like this case) they will not. The S.O. piece was a marketing response to the AirLift. Frankly, BOTH work well but the AirLift is perfectly fine for occasional use as well as professional. They can be used as a diag tool just as a pressure tester can be. Why? Sometimes leaks can be found under vacuum that MIGHT NOT show up under pressure, even though on cooling systems that may make no sense - but it's true - rarely. A good pressure tester is almost a must for guys that do their own work.
3) Amen on hand comfort. Found that out well before I started my first S.O. route decades ago.