My 4 hr. old touring- whatdaya think for $900?

[mgoods50]

Well,

I pulled the trigger even though I would like to have done more diagnostics before purchasing, or at least offering less money.

I could not believe the local interest the seller was receiving. While I was looking at the car, two other people showed up to look also-- and the guy's phone was blowing up like crazy.

I passed, then drove home-- and my wife told me I had lost my mind. I called the guy back and told him I'd bring cash... long story short, I'm the new owner of a car that is perfect for it's intended use (hauling gear around in what I think is style) :)

So, these are the Craigslist pics- the car has been BMW tech owned since 2001, and has had the self-leveling & shocks etc. replaced within the last 2K.

Interior is rough, but I don't mind shaping that up. Little bit of an oil drip from the VCG. Suspension isn't too bad, but control arms and tie rod end boots are torn a bit. Bushings look good. Transmission was replaced under some BMW warranty or something.

Exterior has some bad spots- and a really bad spot on the right rear. I have NO body experience, but for $900-- I'm willing to get some experience on this one.

It is a '92 with 0203 black leather, and 668 Jet Black paint. BMW Individual !

Suggestions? Comments? ... Compliments ?? :)

[PorscheH6]

Damn that's rough. I dare say $900 was too much. You certainly didn't steal it.

For an A to B car though, not bad. What really would bother me is that rear damage.

[ltflint]

Saw that on craigslist yesterday. For $900, you really can't go wrong.

Sent from my iPhone using BF.com

[mgoods50]

Saw that on craigslist yesterday. For $900, you really can't go wrong.

Sent from my iPhone using BF.com


Exactly my wife's rebuttal to my reasoning why I should not buy it-- then my following understanding of logic.

It runs, looks decent--- dirty mind you, but aside from the bang in the rear-- seems solid.

The positives, for me, are that it's black on black on black- just what I was looking for. And, it's not so pretty that I'll mind chunking an air compressor and tools in the back.

ltflint- where do you live, if you don't mind my asking?

[ltflint]

I'm just east of Memphis. Quite a few of us down this way with E34T's.

[gtopaul]

BMW tech owned? Just goes to show that not all BMW techs are enthusiasts. No tech I know would have had the car in that condition very long let alone since 2001. Looks like a good start on a dialy driver though. Congrats.

[ross1]

BMW tech owned? Just goes to show that not all BMW techs are enthusiasts. No tech I know would have had the car in that condition very long let alone since 2001. Looks like a good start on a dialy driver though. Congrats.
Agreed.
Nice fix to the door panel, beats screws I suppose. Hopefully the tape and glue will come off clean and you'll be able to do a proper repair.
The bumper comes off with four bolts. With it replaced the metal damage will be a bunch less noticeable.
$900 doesn't buy much these days, I say you did fine, as evidenced by the response to seller's ad. Really, how much could you potentially overpay for a $900 car? Don't listen to the big spenders here.
Fix her up and enjoy!

[SpartanEuro]

Scrap yards give 300-400 for a vehicle of that weight, so running or not there is your lowest possible purchase price. I would say 900 was high considering the condition, but not by too much, maybe an enthusiast value of 750 considering it needs bodywork with paint. People who have never done proper body repair and quality paint always way underestimate what it will cost to get what they want fixed.

[ltflint]

Throw in another $300 - $350 if you want to pull the cats and recycle them. I got $330 for the last set of M50 OBD I cats I recycled.

[ishcan]

Can't tell from pics but, does it have a sunroof? As a second project car may not be bad. To go into daily driver status starting today it's a bit rough for my liking. Still have your E36?

[Davis359]

Buying cars from mechanics are either real nice or not so nice, some guys are real meticulous about their cars, others do the bare minimum to keep them running. But I like the car and still would have bought it for that :-)

[zubbie]

bumper repair is simple and quick. Go to a yard and fine one of any E34, bolt on and go. If you want to get fancy you can fix the rear quarter stuff but for your use a little Tremclad will hide the worst.

I would pull the remaining bumper and inspect the bumper shock. It may be spent and can be replaced at the same time (part 11)

http://static.bmwfans.info/images/epc/NjAzMF9w.png (http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E34/Sedan/Europe/535i-M30/LHD/A/1989/july/browse/vehicle_trim/carrier_bumper_rear-2/) Carrier, bumper rear (http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E34/Sedan/Europe/535i-M30/LHD/A/1989/july/browse/vehicle_trim/carrier_bumper_rear-2/) - BMW parts catalog (http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/)

[Aradaiel]

That rear repair isn't even close to easy to fix. The way the rear bumper mounts to the body causes the entire spare wheel well to collapse. I bet the right rear frame rail is tweaked as well.

Good luck with that, worst case you've got a nice-ish black interior for a touring that you could sell and then scrap the shell.

[mgoods50]

I'm just east of Memphis. Quite a few of us down this way with E34T's.

Oh- Cool to hear that-


Agreed.
Nice fix to the door panel, beats screws I suppose. Hopefully the tape and glue will come off clean and you'll be able to do a proper repair.
The bumper comes off with four bolts. With it replaced the metal damage will be a bunch less noticeable.
$900 doesn't buy much these days, I say you did fine, as evidenced by the response to seller's ad. Really, how much could you potentially overpay for a $900 car? Don't listen to the big spenders here.
Fix her up and enjoy!

My thoughts too--can't buy much for $900, and I don't mind a little cleaning and tinkering. Screws-- funny you mention that. I just coded an E36 Vert last week that drywall screws all over the place. It made me throw up a little each time I looked at a door panel!


bumper repair is simple and quick. Go to a yard and fine one of any E34, bolt on and go. If you want to get fancy you can fix the rear quarter stuff but for your use a little Tremclad will hide the worst.

I would pull the remaining bumper and inspect the bumper shock. It may be spent and can be replaced at the same time (part 11)



Thank you VERY much for that tip!


Buying cars from mechanics are either real nice or not so nice, some guys are real meticulous about their cars, others do the bare minimum to keep them running. But I like the car and still would have bought it for that :-)

That's for sure. Thought it was better than happening upon a $900 example with average Joe seller.


Can't tell from pics but, does it have a sunroof? As a second project car may not be bad. To go into daily driver status starting today it's a bit rough for my liking. Still have your E36?

It does have the double sunroof. I found out today it leaks somewhat. Don't know where because it was after the rain that I went out to take a look. Nothing terrible, just a drip here and there.

I do have the E36 M. I've ordered the HG, and plan to start that repair soon. I moved it today into another spot-- and remembered why I fell in love in the first place :)


That rear repair isn't even close to easy to fix. The way the rear bumper mounts to the body causes the entire spare wheel well to collapse. I bet the right rear frame rail is tweaked as well.

Good luck with that, worst case you've got a nice-ish black interior for a touring that you could sell and then scrap the shell.

True- the rear inside is tweaked- pretty good. I have not inspected closely the underside rail area though. I assumed, for my purposes (hauling gear, tools etc) I could pound out the worst of the damage, replace the bumper and cover, then be close to decent.

Again, I'm not looking to make this one gorgeous-- but I will repair the interior, restore the leather, clean the living crap out of it, and most likely end up with a bit of fresh paint. I'm too meticulous and persnickety to do anything else.


THANKS FOR THE REPLIES, TIPS AND INFORMATION= EVERYONE!
KEEP 'EM COMING!

[ShapeShifter]

Check the drains at each corner of the sunroof, the tend to get blocked.

[Hoolie]

Sounds like a deecent price.. About what you get for a running winter beater/parts car here. Touring = Good..

They make exellent service cars :)

[mgoods50]

Here are the "before" teaser pics.

I did some cleaning up today. I HATE working on a dirty car. Cleaned up pics to come...

http://s17.postimage.org/jzly51vx7/SDC15990.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/jzly51vx7/)http://s18.postimage.org/7qckp97fp/SDC15991.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/7qckp97fp/)http://s11.postimage.org/vks64h2an/SDC15994.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/vks64h2an/)http://s8.postimage.org/q2c1p57tt/SDC15968.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/q2c1p57tt/)

http://s12.postimage.org/lazeg0ftl/SDC15975.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/lazeg0ftl/)http://s7.postimage.org/xpzi86ok7/SDC15979.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/xpzi86ok7/)http://s17.postimage.org/lbh4tlrdn/SDC15974.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/lbh4tlrdn/)http://s3.postimage.org/3r2czfolr/SDC15978.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/3r2czfolr/)



http://s7.postimage.org/4z79vv847/SDC15970.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/4z79vv847/)http://s18.postimage.org/e5g6zo3j9/SDC15971.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/e5g6zo3j9/)http://s18.postimage.org/ubh501y3p/SDC15980.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/ubh501y3p/)http://s7.postimage.org/g51kwtiaf/SDC15981.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/g51kwtiaf/)http://s11.postimage.org/runxxu127/SDC15976.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/runxxu127/)

Now-- Whatdaya think? Ha Ha.
Cleaned up pics to come tomorrow...

BTW- anyone notice something wrong with the engine bay pic?

[BeLiQ]

I say that's a good price for a black/black touring. Depending on your DIY skills you can make this a great car!

[Teaguer]

Indeed a decent pick-up for the price and your intentions.
It will look worlds better once you get a different rear bumper cover on there.
You can worry about the other cosmetic damage later.

As far as the engine pic .... looks ok just grimy. And its missing the fuel rail cover.

[mgoods50]

I say that's a good price for a black/black touring. Depending on your DIY skills you can make this a great car!

Thank you kindly; I am VERY hands on.

I cleaned the car today (pics tomorrow):

1. dust out dog remnants, long blonde and brown hair, french fries (seem to have been from McDonalds), collect loose change from interior.

2. Scrub (toothbrushes) interior (all vinyl surfaces) with simple green, rinse with water in spray bottle, wipe with microfiber cloth

2.5 Scrub all door jambs / crevices etc w/ simple green, rinse with water, wipe with microfiber cloth

3. Scrub interior (toothbrushes) all vinyl surfaces with Leatherique prestine clean, wipe down with clean microfiber cloth

4. Scrub leather with Leatherique pristine clean, wipe down with microfiber

5. Apply Leatherique leather rejuvenator bare-handed (okay- blue nitrile gloved) to the VERY thirsty leather, repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat.

6. Clean glass with invisible glass + blue shop towels

6.5 WHY would the rear window of a TOURING be dirty when it's SO easy to clean?

I'm TIRED.


Indeed a decent pick-up for the price and your intentions.
It will look worlds better once you get a different rear bumper cover on there.
You can worry about the other cosmetic damage later.

As far as the engine pic .... looks ok just grimy. And its missing the fuel rail cover.

True- but there's more... :D Hint... pretty important!

[thatracer]

clean up pics?

[Mahdude]

Id say that was a great price. I love the wagons. Hopefully the rear framerail isnt damaged and u can simply hammer out any spare tire well damage. Its so funny. ..I have duct tape in the same spot on the door! Looks like you've got enough elbow grease to clean it up. How many miles on it?

[mgoods50]

Id say that was a great price. I love the wagons. Hopefully the rear framerail isnt damaged and u can simply hammer out any spare tire well damage. Its so funny. ..I have duct tape in the same spot on the door! Looks like you've got enough elbow grease to clean it up. How many miles on it?

I think so too. I LOVE it more and more. I'm thinking it just may end up being one of my favorite cars of all time. Even more so since I got it for less than $1K, and am bringing it back to life. It's got 241K I think.

New suspension / levelers / accumulators etc.

Control arms / tie rod end boots are just starting to crack. Bushings look okay. I plan to replace the suspension / steering components later. I've already priced it out at pelican for less than $1K total.

I repaired the driver rear door card today. Didn't have time to do the driver door card. The front passenger door card is damaged; I tried to just remove the card- but it has been glued with GOOD glue and is not letting go. I whittled out most of the card, but will have to replace with some sort of template and fabric.

The rear passenger door panel is missing the top part- so that has me bummed.

Other than that- the headliner is a total wreck. I despise messing about with that sticky orange foam mess so I MAY get a quote on having it done. Probably, once I have the quote I'll realize how... thrifty I am, and do it myself anyway.

Unfortunately- I do believe the damage is substantial. I can't get under there to look for damage under the tank. But, the spare tire area is smashed up pretty good. I'll post pics of that tomorrow for advice.

The clean up pics will come tomorrow, the interior doesn't even look like it's from the same car. The way the leather is soaking up the leatherique rejuvenator, I may end up doing several more treatments before I'm happy.

[Ditoedt325]

Looks like a nice find

Don't let the nay Sayers drag you down.

I'd love to to see the interior now.

If you drive it 10 or15 times you could throw it away and break even on it.

Even if you get pissesd and burn it you'll be out less than someone driving a new car off the lot. Please send me the seats if you burn it.

[tones]

I bought my clean touring for 2400 and the same thing dudes phone was blowing up. The day of old cheap e34 tourings is prob in the past same with old cheap e28's. Stance bois love both.

Either way now you got a nice junkers for hauling

[dragracer440wed]

Here are the "before" teaser pics.

I did some cleaning up today. I HATE working on a dirty car. Cleaned up pics to come...


http://s8.postimage.org/q2c1p57tt/SDC15968.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/q2c1p57tt/)




Now-- Whatdaya think? Ha Ha.
Cleaned up pics to come tomorrow...

BTW- anyone notice something wrong with the engine bay pic?

There is a split in the rubber boot after the MAF sensor :eek:

[Hoolie]

Not that much damage for a rear ended Touring..

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp89/arathbone3036/rear.jpg

They usually buckle down takeing the roof and the whole back end with them..

[mgoods50]

There is a split in the rubber boot after the MAF sensor :eek:

DING DING DING!

Winner!

[dragracer440wed]

DING DING DING!

Winner!


Ok Thank You Thank You !! :redspot Now please ship the touring to me ... LOL :D

[mgoods50]

Walked the wife out to the car so she could take a look...

Leatherique rejuvenator was absorbed into the leather more so than I anticipated. I applied another couple of coats before the sun crested over the hill :) Gonna let it sit a while and bake- then keep applying until I'm happy with the results.

Pics to come a bit later-- sorry, I couldn't find the camera as I stumbled out of bed half-asleep.

[fangx]

Id buy it, that car looks nice

[jfs356]

That bumper cover repair is easy, and you can paint black very easily even with a rattle can. Or just look for a E34 part out with good rear bumper. I would take the risk for that price, for my DD no question.
Lots of E34s at the salvage yards: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1392467

[Mahdude]

The touring is so rare. Id hate to think it'll be relegated to hauling junk.if u prep it so a chassis man can simply throw it on the chassis machine will help with price hell charge. Shouldn't take more than half hour to pull that rear framerail. Seeing the condition of some of the old e34s makes me feel blessed.
I paid 1500 for my 91 525i. The car has 142000 mi. The previous owner installed yellow Bilsteins HIperf chip steel braided lines SSK strut tower brace etc. Never been hit! Alignment was outta whack because one of the BBS RXs was dented pretty bad. New wheel & tires cost me as much as the car!
But id sell it for 2500 if I could find a decent touring!

[SpiritofBavaria]

Car has been badly taken care of. Even if I was selling my ride, I would at least replace the bumper first ( might leave you to do the respray). The door cards too.

Count on spending another $300 - $350 for parts, over and on top of the bodywork. That would be for a new fuel pump, fuel pump relay, main relay and crankshaft position sensor, a new water pump (composite impeller $60 from Oreilly's) and a new thermostat. These are all going to fail on you and turn your car into a nightmare. Its also a good idea to get a new engine coolant temperature sensor. Oem is only $25 but its not the easiest thing to access.

Step down your blower motor's fuse to 20amps (it is rated as 30) to prevent cabin fires. This is a known weakness for the E34. Check to see if your aux fan runs at both speeds, and if its coolant sensor is working fine.

Check all the filters, replace the fuel filter (its probably at least 10 years old) and do a thorough engine flush with at least 2 quarts of flush. Use diesel fuel, that's the cheapest. Add the 2 quarts to the crankcase, run the engine at idle for 15 minutes, then stop and change to a new filter, then run it at idle for at least 20 minutes, then drain and change to new oil and new filter. Do not use less than 2 quarts for this first flush....you can bet that this engine has alot of crap in it. Fail to flush it and your oil passages may soon get clogged enough to cause MAJOR problems.

Check your shocks for unevenness and bounce. Eyeball all of your brake pads for wear, and look at the brake rotors as well.

Please get that bumper replaced asap. It is a code violation, in any case. Don't drive it for more than 7 days like that - set yourself this target with no excuses for failure.

And, taking another look at your pictures, it is obvious that no bmw tech ever owned this car. You need to assume that this is a trashed up vehicle, with hidden surprises. You'll have to check EVERYTHING. Importantly, check your brake lines, undercarriage for leaks, check your brake, p/s, transmission and rear diff fluids for their condition. Change if fully brown and flush or do a fast change interval, if the fluids concerned are black.

I think you've been had. The car has so much work on the interior to get it into respectable shape. Never let your missus make decisions on beater cars, and never treat your E34 as a beater, at least in terms of its outlook.

I would have spat on that previous owner. Honestly.

[struka]

Did you get this at Carma or just where the pics where taken?

[Blutortl]

Car has been badly taken care of. Even if I was selling my ride, I would at least replace the bumper first ( might leave you to do the respray). The door cards too.

Count on spending another $300 - $350 for parts, over and on top of the bodywork. That would be for a new fuel pump, fuel pump relay, main relay and crankshaft position sensor, a new water pump (composite impeller $60 from Oreilly's) and a new thermostat. These are all going to fail on you and turn your car into a nightmare. Its also a good idea to get a new engine coolant temperature sensor. Oem is only $25 but its not the easiest thing to access.

Step down your blower motor's fuse to 20amps (it is rated as 30) to prevent cabin fires. This is a known weakness for the E34. Check to see if your aux fan runs at both speeds, and if its coolant sensor is working fine.

Check all the filters, replace the fuel filter (its probably at least 10 years old) and do a thorough engine flush with at least 2 quarts of flush. Use diesel fuel, that's the cheapest. Add the 2 quarts to the crankcase, run the engine at idle for 15 minutes, then stop and change to a new filter, then run it at idle for at least 20 minutes, then drain and change to new oil and new filter. Do not use less than 2 quarts for this first flush....you can bet that this engine has alot of crap in it. Fail to flush it and your oil passages may soon get clogged enough to cause MAJOR problems.

Check your shocks for unevenness and bounce. Eyeball all of your brake pads for wear, and look at the brake rotors as well.

Please get that bumper replaced asap. It is a code violation, in any case. Don't drive it for more than 7 days like that - set yourself this target with no excuses for failure.

And, taking another look at your pictures, it is obvious that no bmw tech ever owned this car. You need to assume that this is a trashed up vehicle, with hidden surprises. You'll have to check EVERYTHING. Importantly, check your brake lines, undercarriage for leaks, check your brake, p/s, transmission and rear diff fluids for their condition. Change if fully brown and flush or do a fast change interval, if the fluids concerned are black.

I think you've been had. The car has so much work on the interior to get it into respectable shape. Never let your missus make decisions on beater cars, and never treat your E34 as a beater, at least in terms of its outlook.

I would have spat on that previous owner. Honestly.


+1 on everything said. By my estimates, a new interior, rear end (not counting spray) and basic maintenance will run at $1500. But on the bright side, you will have a decent touring for under 2500.

[AndrewH]

Not a fan of tourings but I'd rock it for $900. Get it mechanically sound, remove your OCD tendencies from exterior flaws (it's hard I know) and rock it with a Postupedic in the rear, win.

[mgoods50]

Car has been badly taken care of. Even if I was selling my ride, I would at least replace the bumper first ( might leave you to do the respray). The door cards too.

Count on spending another $300 - $350 for parts, over and on top of the bodywork. That would be for a new fuel pump, fuel pump relay, main relay and crankshaft position sensor, a new water pump (composite impeller $60 from Oreilly's) and a new thermostat. These are all going to fail on you and turn your car into a nightmare. Its also a good idea to get a new engine coolant temperature sensor. Oem is only $25 but its not the easiest thing to access.Will do complete white glove treatment once frame is repaired- that's just how I do things.

Step down your blower motor's fuse to 20amps (it is rated as 30) to prevent cabin fires. This is a known weakness for the E34. Check to see if your aux fan runs at both speeds, and if its coolant sensor is working fine.THANK YOU

Check all the filters, replace the fuel filter (its probably at least 10 years old) and do a thorough engine flush with at least 2 quarts of flush. Use diesel fuel, that's the cheapest. Add the 2 quarts to the crankcase, run the engine at idle for 15 minutes, then stop and change to a new filter, then run it at idle for at least 20 minutes, then drain and change to new oil and new filter. Do not use less than 2 quarts for this first flush....you can bet that this engine has alot of crap in it. Fail to flush it and your oil passages may soon get clogged enough to cause MAJOR problems. This is what I have done with a couple of GMC trucks- but is it safe for a car this old (seals)? I'd hate to start bleeding oil and have to overhaul the entire engine to stop it. If the benefit outweighs the risk-- then I will certainly do it. I did not know about the oil passage issue, and I have to assume the car was NOT maintained as expected.

Check your shocks for unevenness and bounce. Eyeball all of your brake pads for wear, and look at the brake rotors as well. New shocks all around, including pressure accumulators, mounts etc. :D

Please get that bumper replaced asap. It is a code violation, in any case. Don't drive it for more than 7 days like that - set yourself this target with no excuses for failure. Car is parked.

And, taking another look at your pictures, it is obvious that no bmw tech ever owned this car. You need to assume that this is a trashed up vehicle, with hidden surprises. You'll have to check EVERYTHING. Importantly, check your brake lines, undercarriage for leaks, check your brake, p/s, transmission and rear diff fluids for their condition. Change if fully brown and flush or do a fast change interval, if the fluids concerned are black. Partial drain and refill, repeat?

I think you've been had. The car has so much work on the interior to get it into respectable shape. Never let your missus make decisions on beater cars, and never treat your E34 as a beater, at least in terms of its outlook. Yup, I'm NOT that kind of enthusiast. It now has a good home. Missus just knows how meticulous I am, and knew what I was looking for :alright

I would have spat on that previous owner. Honestly. I agree-- and am considering it ha ha!

Thank you very much for the tips, and blunt straightforward responses- seriously.

I don't feel like I've been had, because it's what I wanted; a cheap BMW touring- in the colors I preferred. And, it runs. But- you're right- it's gonna need some work to put it up to my standards. I've already handled the interior in two days, but it has been a LOT of work.

I'm not driving it at all. It's parked. I'm in contact with Stephens Auto Body here in Nashville. I plan to have them put it on the rack and make it right. I HOPE the damage is not too severe for repair. I know looks are deceiving, but it doesn't "look" that bad. http://autobodyrepairnashville.com/Home

Updated (cleaned) interior pics to come in a bit, followed by pics of damage...

Was this worth two day's labor?
http://s11.postimage.org/6qk5qne0v/SDC16022.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/6qk5qne0v/)

Leatherique rejuvinator removed, prestene clean applied, carpet cleaned
http://s7.postimage.org/x09gl4c1z/SDC16044.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/x09gl4c1z/)http://s11.postimage.org/klrn0ln7j/SDC16045.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/klrn0ln7j/)http://s12.postimage.org/qhwa02cyx/SDC16042.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/qhwa02cyx/)http://s9.postimage.org/ab6pjof4r/SDC16043.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/ab6pjof4r/)http://s7.postimage.org/q2aecak93/SDC16047.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/q2aecak93/)
Nevermind the inconsistencies in the finish on the vinyl; I have since applied a topcoat of prestene clean and Aerospace 303.

This is what came out of the leather- keep in mind I precleaned it yesterday. This is what was expelled by the Leatherique rejuvenator:
http://s17.postimage.org/3x8w8hciz/SDC16039.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/3x8w8hciz/)http://s4.postimage.org/svd295gs9/SDC16040.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/svd295gs9/)



While rejuvenator was soaking, and brushed into the leather
http://s4.postimage.org/gjwo8zuwp/SDC16036.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/gjwo8zuwp/)http://s18.postimage.org/gr1uhb4md/SDC16038.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/gr1uhb4md/)http://s11.postimage.org/jpcs26jzz/SDC16021.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/jpcs26jzz/)http://s4.postimage.org/7dx7o2055/SDC16035.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/7dx7o2055/)


This is what it looks like after it's soaked in a bit while it's "working".
http://s9.postimage.org/4jb6q9uor/SDC16020.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/4jb6q9uor/)





How to fix door panel cards:
http://s9.postimage.org/60e9iv5wb/SDC16030.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/60e9iv5wb/)

Notice the CLEAN jamb. The impressions will fade with time; I normally use a paint stirrer, this time I tried cardboard and failed. Not perfect- but a heck of a lot better than it was!
http://s7.postimage.org/j6gz1pb0n/SDC16016.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/j6gz1pb0n/)

Purely cosmetic, but I could NOT stand the dust/ dirt.
http://s12.postimage.org/pqq88fne1/SDC16028.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/pqq88fne1/)http://s11.postimage.org/il65cvxdr/SDC16029.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/il65cvxdr/)


Close-up pics of damage area to come a bit later-- gotta spend time with the Missus! :buttrock

Oh, and the Leather also got a topcoat of Aerospace 303-- this gave it a pleasant sheen, not too shiny, but provides UV protection and many other benefits. Those pics tomorrow ! It looks even better now than in these pics.


The touring is so rare. Id hate to think it'll be relegated to hauling junk.if u prep it so a chassis man can simply throw it on the chassis machine will help with price hell charge. Shouldn't take more than half hour to pull that rear framerail. Seeing the condition of some of the old e34s makes me feel blessed.
I paid 1500 for my 91 525i. The car has 142000 mi. The previous owner installed yellow Bilsteins HIperf chip steel braided lines SSK strut tower brace etc. Never been hit! Alignment was outta whack because one of the BBS RXs was dented pretty bad. New wheel & tires cost me as much as the car!
But id sell it for 2500 if I could find a decent touring!


Let me clarify a bit what I meant by "gear"-- expensive tools that look new in clean tool bags, diagnostic laptop in a custom case with a custom stand, etc-- my toys look like this car is lookING (now) - I am very particular about all of my stuff. It's bothering me BAD right now that I didn't clean the handle of my new impact wrench the last time I used it, and It's been a couple of days.

[ltflint]

Will probably be in Nashvegas briefly on Monday. Would love to get a look at this if possible.

The transformation looks great!

Sent from my iPhone using BF.com

[mgoods50]

Will probably be in Nashvegas briefly on Monday. Would love to get a look at this if possible.

The transformation looks great!

Sent from my iPhone using BF.com

Thank you!

By all means, please do~ Love to chat a bit with a fellow member. PM me and I'll shoot you my address / telephone. Text is best, we can plan on a time.

Might even be an '87 E30 vert I just finished up still here too-- the leather is BEAUTIFUL and original. Did a complete overhaul on it for a client of mine. It was in similar condition when he brought it over.

[ltflint]

I've got an 89 325ic. Will be in town in my 85 745i though. Nothing like a big six with 9lbs of boost.

Sent from my iPhone using BF.com

[SpiritofBavaria]

Thank you for saving this E34. The before and after pics border on the miraculous. I now have total confidence in you. The engine bay looks like it should (how did you clean that), and the vinyl seats actually look decent !

And yes, you're right, one can still go back and spit on the OP. Do it when the car has been restored and you're going to show it to him to emphasise the point that he's a real shit. Restrain yourself from spitting at him only if, upon looking at the car, he falls to his knees and asks you for forgiveness while bawling away. :)

I didn't read this right...you have chassis damage ? Not just the bumber and the bumper protector ? Oh dear. That MUST be fixed correctly, and your subframe needs to be inspected.

I will respond to the rest of your points a little later. Right now, from the bottom of my heart, thank you. That's exactly what your new baby would say if it could talk.

[mgoods50]

I've got an 89 325ic. Will be in town in my 85 745i though. Nothing like a big six with 9lbs of boost.

Sent from my iPhone using BF.com

I just realized a few moments ago you have an E23- I restored one ('85 model also) about a decade ago. Had Race Marque build a tranny, diff, and stroker motor. Talk about a sleeper! I didn't realize at the time how special that big six was.

The darn electrical / vacuum actuators for the A/C finally got the best of me; I was living in TX at the time and didn't have the time to devote at an enthusiast level-- and NO ONE had the knowledge to work on it.

I have some horror (shop) stories that I went through with that car.

Looking forward to seeing yours!

[Mahdude]

Unbelievable. Its a different car! I wish u could fix my door cards like that. Im tired of tge duct tape! Leatherique u say...howzat work? All that bucket shmootz came off the seats?

[mgoods50]

Unbelievable. Its a different car! I wish u could fix my door cards like that. Im tired of tge duct tape! Leatherique u say...howzat work? All that bucket shmootz came off the seats?

Thank you!
That and MORE. That's just the couple of buckets-worth I stopped to take pics of. I lost count yesterday when doing the other interior surfaces and door jambs. I tossed out about four like that today.

Leatherique is a brand of professional leather restoration products. I, and others much more experienced and "professional" than me-- swear by them. AFAIK, they do no advertising. All of their sales are through professionals and referrals. They've been around about as long as dirt. As far as I'm concerned it's the best of the best. I wont use anything else on leather.


Thank you for saving this E34. The before and after pics border on the miraculous. [Thank you very much. They really do look better in person.] I now have total confidence in you. The engine bay looks like it should (how did you clean that), [believe it or not, that is really a very quick once over with no-touch tire foam. When I get around to actually cleaning the bay- it will look more like the very last pic of my post-- and that is dirty still ]and the vinyl seats [they're leather :D I verified with the build sheet.] actually look decent !

And yes, you're right, one can still go back and spit on the OP. Do it when the car has been restored and you're going to show it to him to emphasise the point that he's a real shit. Restrain yourself from spitting at him only if, upon looking at the car, he falls to his knees and asks you for forgiveness while bawling away. [:) Ha Ha~ That's hilarious!]

I didn't read this right...you have chassis damage ? Not just the bumber and the bumper protector ? Oh dear. That MUST be fixed correctly, and your subframe needs to be inspected. [Yes- I've been in contact with a frame shop, but not quite ready to set appointment yet.]

I will respond to the rest of your points a little later. Right now, from the bottom of my heart, thank you.[ :buttrock]That's exactly what your new baby would say if it could talk.


Here are the damage pics...

Just a shot of the view from behind
http://s11.postimage.org/koniapbr3/SDC16000.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/koniapbr3/)

One from underneath. Note the rust. Seller indicated "recent" accident in listing (of course I knew it was not recent)
http://s12.postimage.org/57y3bm33d/SDC16014.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/57y3bm33d/)

Sequence of removing parts, getting a better view. I had to deflate spare to remove; there was some tension. Left side of pic #9: there's about 1/2" of doubled over metal there.
http://s4.postimage.org/lfpsamdyx/SDC16001.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/lfpsamdyx/)http://s7.postimage.org/hhtzb4suf/SDC16002.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/hhtzb4suf/)http://s7.postimage.org/ncdz546br/SDC16003.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/ncdz546br/)http://s7.postimage.org/yrf1nh81z/SDC16004.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/yrf1nh81z/)http://s3.postimage.org/yq2fkx8an/SDC16005.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/yq2fkx8an/)http://s12.postimage.org/riqjpbprd/SDC16006.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/riqjpbprd/)http://s4.postimage.org/lyuvjw5dl/SDC16007.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/lyuvjw5dl/)
http://s8.postimage.org/fel2i52ep/SDC16008.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/fel2i52ep/)http://s3.postimage.org/5cfvwtkcf/SDC16009.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/5cfvwtkcf/)http://s7.postimage.org/nvnns4n47/SDC16010.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/nvnns4n47/)http://s9.postimage.org/oap1u9l0b/SDC16011.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/oap1u9l0b/)http://s11.postimage.org/lgzd1dupr/SDC16012.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/lgzd1dupr/)http://s7.postimage.org/qtkmlturr/SDC16013.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/qtkmlturr/)

I did remove the fuel pump access door- there is nothing odd about what is underneath so I didn't take a pic of that. Just 20+ years of dirt and dust on top of the access point.


The bay of my M3.. waiting on HG repair...
http://s18.postimage.org/9s67ogap1/starter_view.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/9s67ogap1/)

[mgoods50]

Service history booklet page:
http://s7.postimage.org/5kdyk5bif/SDC16049.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/5kdyk5bif/)http://s11.postimage.org/uyrcjw3b3/SDC16050.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/uyrcjw3b3/)http://s18.postimage.org/9d8elwmyd/SDC16051.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/9d8elwmyd/)http://s9.postimage.org/mpd4yj3zv/SDC16052.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/mpd4yj3zv/)http://s7.postimage.org/5e9g8jh53/SDC16053.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/5e9g8jh53/)http://s18.postimage.org/4u0re4ugl/SDC16054.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/4u0re4ugl/)

http://s8.postimage.org/q4lcyja8h/SDC16055.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/q4lcyja8h/)

My 5 grew up where it was born!

When I looked up the last dealer, I got a page not found error at bmw.de. What a pretty city... back to the internet to search more...

I am SO glad I got this car- and that it has more history than a typical trail owners from the U.S.!!


So, as best I can tell, the original owner ordered a U.S. spec. car in Germany. ?
Also, it seems the dealers are no longer in service. This makes me want to order a history report just to see where the car has been.

Wish I could find a bit of trivia somewhere lost in the car. My wife's 7 had been to Japan- I found a highway tax card, and some Japanese stickers, and some other neat stuff.

[ltflint]

The 1992 525i I picked up a few years ago as a donor for my 5 speed swap was a Euro delivery car. It was originally purchased by a US soldier stationed in Germany. The service booklet showed stamps at the delivering dealership in Germany, then dealerships in the US, then more in Germany after that. I love a good story with a car.

[JamieNL]

Awesome black on black, I've got a 92 touring with a 5 speed swapped into it, I love it!

[Aradaiel]

Trunk isn't as bad as I thought it would be. Not bad, but not great. It's definatley fixable.

[Mark185]

I am loving the fact that you are saving this touring. I own two of them but only one is a driver. My 'parts' car has holes rusted in the floorboards but no accident damage other than trashed bumper covers. Reading your thread is making me think twice about my original plan to strip it for parts. The touring in question is also a black on black 1992 model. I paid much less than $900 for mine but the transmission has issues, the door panels are missing, carpet is moldy, and floors rotted out. Primary reason I bought it was for the black interior and good running engine. Subscribed and very interested to see how you bring yours back to good running condition.

[M I C H A E L]

Honestly I don't think you made a bad move either. You knew getting into it what it would potentially cost. the interior isnt trashed, the carpets are clean and the leather isnt that bad of condition, sure it has cracks and all but the cleanup pics made it look so much better.
Obv the rear is in need of repair and source a bumper, shouldn't be too hard. Long as engine is in good shape and no faults and trans is fine then i think you made a good move. Theres plently worse cars out there asking more than 900..

[SpiritofBavaria]

Honestly I don't think you made a bad move either. You knew getting into it what it would potentially cost. the interior isnt trashed, the carpets are clean and the leather isnt that bad of condition, sure it has cracks and all but the cleanup pics made it look so much better.
Obv the rear is in need of repair and source a bumper, shouldn't be too hard. Long as engine is in good shape and no faults and trans is fine then i think you made a good move. Theres plently worse cars out there asking more than 900..


....but not getting it. Chassis damage usually means you're looking at max $500. Here you've got chassis damage, bumper replacement, respray, door cards repair/ replacement, seats carpets, floor mats, rear speakers, amps. And we have not started on the engine....preventive care alone will cost $300 in parts, and that's before we start fixing stuff on the engine for this particular car. You have to use a working assumption that all fluids and suspension components would be either suspect or shot....the car was trashed. Add labour to that long list...

This car had the incredible fortune to meet a new owner who could see it whole and healed, and new exactly what to do to get it there. He probably threw the extra money at the po like alms to a beggar, because haggling with him would add further insult to the injury endured by the car. By working on the car himself for the most part, he has restored its faith in people.

Yes, ridiculous as it sounds, I believe our cars have feelings, or are somehow connected to us if we actually care and bond with it emotionally. So, nourishing that relationship in an almost human fashion pays dividends. Of course, I don't have scientifically rigorous proof of this, but I think most people would tend to agree.

[Mark185]

....but not getting it. Chassis damage usually means you're looking at max $500. Here you've got chassis damage, bumper replacement, respray, door cards repair/ replacement, seats carpets, floor mats, rear speakers, amps. And we have not started on the engine....preventive care alone will cost $300 in parts, and that's before we start fixing stuff on the engine for this particular car. You have to use a working assumption that all fluids and suspension components would be either suspect or shot....the car was trashed. Add labour to that long list...

This car had the incredible fortune to meet a new owner who could see it whole and healed, and new exactly what to do to get it there. He probably threw the extra money at the po like alms to a beggar, because haggling with him would add further insult to the injury endured by the car. By working on the car himself for the most part, he has restored its faith in people.

Yes, ridiculous as it sounds, I believe our cars have feelings, or are somehow connected to us if we actually care and bond with it emotionally. So, nourishing that relationship in an almost human fashion pays dividends. Of course, I don't have scientifically rigorous proof of this, but I think most people would tend to agree.

One thing you need to recognize is that E34 touring models are much rarer here in the USA. I am certain that more sold on the continent and suspect that more sold in the UK also. Then, take into account the size of the US and spread the meager number of tourings out across our geography. That changes the perception of what it is worth and what someone is willing to expend in time and money to repair one.

[SpiritofBavaria]

Check all the filters, replace the fuel filter (its probably at least 10 years old) and do a thorough engine flush with at least 2 quarts of flush. Use diesel fuel, that's the cheapest. Add the 2 quarts to the crankcase, run the engine at idle for 15 minutes, then stop and change to a new filter, then run it at idle for at least 20 minutes, then drain and change to new oil and new filter. Do not use less than 2 quarts for this first flush....you can bet that this engine has alot of crap in it. Fail to flush it and your oil passages may soon get clogged enough to cause MAJOR problems. This is what I have done with a couple of GMC trucks- but is it safe for a car this old (seals)? I'd hate to start bleeding oil and have to overhaul the entire engine to stop it. If the benefit outweighs the risk-- then I will certainly do it. I did not know about the oil passage issue, and I have to assume the car was NOT maintained as expected.

I've done 1-2 quart diesel flushes on all my cars and there were no problems with seals. There's alot of misinformation out there about swelling seals, leaking seals etc. Usually, there were leaks of course, but people attributed it incorrectly to a flush causing all this. Another big misnomer out there is that built up carbon and sludge can actually seal micro cracks and ruptures in oil seals and gaskets. Not true. Gaskets and oil seals rupture due to wear caused by repeated thermal cycling, incompetent repair, and situations like overheats for the hg (although this does not happen 3/4s of the time).

The key thing is for you to do this with both the old, and a new oil filter changed 15 minutes into the flush, AND to use 2 quarts of solvent for the flush and not just one small bottle.

This is only for the very first flush, for any new (old) car purchased, and certainly for this one. After that, you can add 1/2 to 1 quart of diesel with every oil change, but even this is usually not necessary if you use branded fully synthetic fluids like Mobil 1 (under $30 for 5 quarts at walmart) and you change the oil when you should.

And, taking another look at your pictures, it is obvious that no bmw tech ever owned this car. You need to assume that this is a trashed up vehicle, with hidden surprises. You'll have to check EVERYTHING. Importantly, check your brake lines, undercarriage for leaks, check your brake, p/s, transmission and rear diff fluids for their condition. Change if fully brown and flush or do a fast change interval, if the fluids concerned are black.

Partial drain and refill, repeat?

[ Tranny ] I think its better to do a full drain and refill with new filter, then change once again after 60 days. When you drain the tranny, a fair bit of fluid still stays in the torque convertor. The tranny cannot be properly flushed except by a tranny flush machine, and that is very expensive.

You can use cheaper non-synthetic oil for the first fillup (always use the correct rating), then switch to semi or fully synthetic after that. Shop around for the best prices, prices have come down, and you don't need to use Lifeguard. Synthetic fluids shear less and handle heat far better and thus degrade more slowly than non synthetic fluids, so imo it is worth the investment. With fully synthetic fluid, I would just change the tranny filter every 30k and be done with that till I near the 100k mark, when you need to check on the colour of the oil more carefully.

You only need to do a tranny flush or a fast change interval if your old oil comes out black or dark brown. Light brown and better is ok for a normal oil change. So you please inspect the oil first.

I'm assuming that you're doing all this yourself instead of at a shop.


I think you've been had. The car has so much work on the interior to get it into respectable shape. Never let your missus make decisions on beater cars, and never treat your E34 as a beater, at least in terms of its outlook. Yup, I'm NOT that kind of enthusiast. It now has a good home. Missus just knows how meticulous I am, and knew what I was looking for

Then you've got a great missus. Do up the car and give it to her, and then just perpetually borrow it from her after that. :)

This thread makes me feel very good about life. Anything is possible. Good luck.

[M I C H A E L]

Yes, ridiculous as it sounds, I believe our cars have feelings, or are somehow connected to us if we actually care and bond with it emotionally. So, nourishing that relationship in an almost human fashion pays dividends. Of course, I don't have scientifically rigorous proof of this, but I think most people would tend to agree.

yep. I agree there. we all become emotionally attatched to something one way or another. Im glad to see it in good hands too.. And 900 bucks really is not a lot of money. even though he may put twice that into it over the long run, it will be a nice touring in the end and it will run great. Not disagreeing that it doesn't need work. Ive seen cars way worse condition just by looks. Interior was just dirty atleast the seats are still intact and cushion isnt falling out of them..

[mgoods50]

Honestly I don't think you made a bad move either. You knew getting into it what it would potentially cost. the interior isnt trashed, the carpets are clean and the leather isnt that bad of condition, sure it has cracks and all but the cleanup pics made it look so much better.
Obv the rear is in need of repair and source a bumper, shouldn't be too hard. Long as engine is in good shape and no faults and trans is fine then i think you made a good move. Theres plently worse cars out there asking more than 900..

I did know, I spent some time under the hood, and under the car. Before seeing the vehicle, I incorrectly assumed a level of maintenance. But again- this was the car I had been looking for. I will most likely fill the cracks and refinish the leather. I enjoy bringing things back from negligence. --and the finished product is going to be much nicer than the preconceived idea I had of a service car.



...Add labour to that long list...

I do all of my own... everything-- so I was only considering my time and parts cost-- as well as the potential outcome and finished product :) Thanks for the updated tips!
Oh- and the Missus has ALREADY made a comment about driving the car to work! Ha Ha!


This car had the incredible fortune to meet a new owner who could see it whole and healed, and new exactly what to do to get it there. He probably threw the extra money at the po like alms to a beggar, because haggling with him would add further insult to the injury endured by the car. By working on the car himself for the most part, he has restored its faith in people.

Funny you mention this- because it's nearly what I did. After my wife basically said "what were you thinking" [for not buying it on the spot] I got back in touch with the seller (about 8:30pm). He told me another person was coming to look- and I told him I was making a full price offer right then- and he had my word I would bring him the cash immediately. Being proactive, I drew up a bill of sale and my wife and I went to pick it up right then.


One thing you need to recognize is that E34 touring models are much rarer here in the USA... That changes the perception of what it is worth and what someone is willing to expend in time and money to repair one.

I didn't realize how uncommon they were until I started looking. I consider myself very lucky to have found one I wanted within the span of a few weeks. I shopped for my E36 M3 for 4 years! My only consideration is that it had an M50, and was the colors I wanted (and in condition that I felt I could handle with relative ease).

I even told my wife we should plan on having transmission problems, and a blown headgasket. The way I look at it- I'd rather have a manual transmission anyway-- and any engine repairs are to be expected with the age. I'm fluent in M/S50 speak- so any issues will only add to my experiences and "fun"-- at least this one is non-vanos!


And 900 bucks really is not a lot of money. even though he may put twice that into it over the long run, it will be a nice touring in the end and it will run great. ... Interior was just dirty atleast the seats are still intact and cushion isnt falling out of them..

Only twice as much? I'll be REALLY lucky if I only put another $900 in it. Ha Ha. I don't mind investing my time or labor in something I believe in. I actually can't wait to refresh the underside, but everything's in decent shape for the moment. So, once I've got the rear-end frame done, I'll do the cosmetic part of the rear and begin on the engine / transmission preventive maintenance. Once that's complete- I've got to consider getting the paint back to a decent condition with original BMW Jet Black.

If it didn't have the interesting history- I would consider less expensive alternatives, but really-- how could I in good conscience put a $300 generic paint job on this car? That's NEVER going to happen; it just wouldn't be right!


Everyone: I offer my sincere thanks for following my new project, and for your ongoing comments and suggestions!

There are a few parts I'm looking for (other than the obvious- bumper related); if anyone has some spares, please PM me (pass. side front tow-hook cover, fog lamps or fog lamp delete covers, stock rear speakers, stock radio w/ weather band, OEM zip-case for owners manuals (just picked up some brochures off eBay to begin my memorabilia collection), decent headlamps or replacement lenses (potentially upgrade with better beams)

[tones]

I was looking at one in your condition. No crash damage jsut a lot of rust and bad rattle job. Trashed interior. A really bad particle board sunroof plug. Shitty m30 5 speed swap. No head liner missing interior cards. And it sold out from under me at 2600 in a matter of hours.

You fix that thing up and drop some coin in it and you will prob break even if you ever sell it.

[mgoods50]

I was looking at one in your condition. No crash damage jsut a lot of rust and bad rattle job. Trashed interior. A really bad particle board sunroof plug. Shitty m30 5 speed swap. No head liner missing interior cards. And it sold out from under me at 2600 in a matter of hours.

You fix that thing up and drop some coin in it and you will prob break even if you ever sell it.

Wow- that's amazing- and a lot like the response I was seeing around here. One of the potential buyers that showed up while I was there was also an enthusiast. We talked a bit, and he was showing me the internet page bookmarks from some other wagons he had seen-- they were the same ones I had been looking at.

We were chatting a bit about the different sellers and the conditions of the cars when yet another potential buyer came. He too had been in the market for a wagon for some time. The three of us ended up exchanging numbers for various interests in E30 parts / E36 and connections--

My point is that however limited the market for these wagons may be- the buyers in that market are committed. If you think about the chances of the three of us, showing up at basically the same time- all being in the market for a wagon-- that's a lot of chance. Keep in mind the seller had several people already come by that day- and his phone literally was ringing every few minutes.

[ltflint]

Took a look at this car today. For $900, you really couldn't lose on this deal! Nice score Donavan. Great to meet you!

[mgoods50]

Took a look at this car today. For $900, you really couldn't lose on this deal! Nice score Donavan. Great to meet you!

Thank you Greg, it was a pleasure meeting and chatting with you too. Hope your 10# spring project goes well- keep me posted :)

Everyone- I also had the pleasure of seeing a beautiful 745- euro / boosted. Eye candy is almost an insult! This car is quite a treat for the eyes.


I spent the rest of the afternoon applying another generous coat of Leatherique leather rejuvenator. When Greg saw the interior, it was again quite thirsty. For those with direct experience (and those contemplating use of the product) I've already applied more than 16oz.

I anticipate likely applying a full 32oz of rejuvenator, and maybe more before the seats stop crying for attention.

In between applying and waiting for the product to soak in, I spent time scraping the glass inside and out. There was so much buildup of grime- I could not remove it with glass cleaner alone.

I'm proud to report that the glass-- frankly-- looks rather new. Only a few windows have scratches, and overall it certainly does not look it's age.

Still contemplating how to address the buckled rear end :help

[SpiritofBavaria]

Still contemplating how to address the buckled rear end :help

My advice to you would be to pay for it to be done professionally. This is not in your skilset and this is not a cosmetic affair alone where coming up short might not be a big deal.

Perhaps you could shop around for the best quotes...email them detailed pictures of the car and bumper and they should be able to quote you over the phone or at least give you a ballpark estimate. If they insist on only giving you a ballpark if you drive in, and its a shop you're not familiar with, then move on, they are clowns trying to rip you off probably.

[mgoods50]

My advice to you would be to pay for it to be done professionally. This is not in your skilset and this is not a cosmetic affair alone where coming up short might not be a big deal.

Perhaps you could shop around for the best quotes...email them detailed pictures of the car and bumper and they should be able to quote you over the phone or at least give you a ballpark estimate. If they insist on only giving you a ballpark if you drive in, and its a shop you're not familiar with, then move on, they are clowns trying to rip you off probably.

Certainly something outside the range of my skillset!

I had an email out to a local shop that is supposed to be reputable. This is the response I received today:

"this frame damage is NOT repairable the frame rail will have to be replaced ! One thing that I would say is that there is a reason that insurance companies TOTAL vehicle and judging by your pictures this a prime candidate."

While I respect the professional opinion of someone in a particular industry- I have not dropped the tank to expose the underside. I guess one could be knowledgeable enough to judge from the pics (that I've posted here)- but I'm not willing to accept that this car is a scapper.

Now, If faced with giving up on this car--I will throw a logging chain around a tree with a come-a-long and pull it out myself.

[SpiritofBavaria]

Judging by the number of needless capitalised words i would say look for someone else. A true professional would not have to ram anything down your throat.

[Hoolie]

Have an alignment shop see if the alignment is up to par..

If it is... Put on a new rear bumper and use the rallye sledgehammer and pound back in shape..

Or hire a porta power set...

[ltflint]

From looking at the car yesterday, I don't think the trailing arms or mounting points suffered any damage.

[mgoods50]

Yup- alignment shop is going to be my next stop; that will answer some questions and tell me how to proceed.

I applied more leather rejuvinator today. You can see the uneven looking finish on the leather from it soaking in.

I also couldn't stand the filthy paint any longer. I took it for a short spin to the car wash (only a couple of miles from my house). $15 worth of hand washing later, the paint doesn't look as bad as I expected. A re-spray of the hood, and of course the rear area and this thing will look pretty good. (Of course I'd be doing buffing and paint care on the rest).

From these pics, I can see areas I missed on the wheels. I was getting cold, and soaking wet so I'll get them cleaner later. I can't wait to see how good they look once they've been properly cleaned.

http://s17.postimage.org/xzuvzr2a3/SDC16056.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/xzuvzr2a3/)http://s12.postimage.org/3v3wfzmbt/SDC16057.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/3v3wfzmbt/)http://s18.postimage.org/4k7ram9tx/SDC16058.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/4k7ram9tx/)



Notice how clear the glass is now.
http://s11.postimage.org/wplcurdpb/SDC16059.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/wplcurdpb/)http://s3.postimage.org/gzdd7brxb/SDC16060.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/gzdd7brxb/)

I wish I had taken pics of the engine bay- I cleaned it today too. I started talking to a neighbor and forgot before the sun went down :( I'll snap a couple of pics tomorrow.


Did you get this at Carma or just where the pics where taken?

Sorry- missed ur post. Got off CL, ad was up about 24hrs- local seller.


Next day!


First I'll say don't use that scratch stuff on a large area unless you have a lot of time, or a full measure of elbow grease.

I went over the entire car at least twice, some areas / scratches got more. I spent a lot of time on the hood and it did clean up rather well. There are still some bug spots and hard water deposits- but the finish is LIGHT years ahead of what it was.

The right rear quarter panel, which was very hazy before- now matches the panels around it. I was surprised I was able to clean it up as well as I did.

I used Zymol cleaner wax on the entire car. After not getting the results I wanted (several applications), I resorted to the scratch out for the hood and some stubborn spots. This cleaned up a lot of the problems.

I used a terry cloth bonnet, and for the scratch out I used a blue disposable application bonnet. I ran my buffer for several hours straight today; it got a real workout!!

http://s18.postimage.org/cayc819qt/SDC16080.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/cayc819qt/)http://s12.postimage.org/cxw0acqrt/SDC16081.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/cxw0acqrt/)http://s16.postimage.org/u9jrqhr8x/SDC16074.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/u9jrqhr8x/)http://s17.postimage.org/rtap1vs23/SDC16077.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/rtap1vs23/)http://s13.postimage.org/6vycfb5qb/SDC16079.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/6vycfb5qb/)http://s17.postimage.org/ickvv987f/SDC16078.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/ickvv987f/)http://s16.postimage.org/l4g0add81/SDC16073.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/l4g0add81/)http://s17.postimage.org/do9hdt8ej/SDC16068.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/do9hdt8ej/)



As promised- the clean engine bay. No dressing yet; I want to do some PM before slicking up the hoses and whatnot.
http://s16.postimage.org/psw05k2ep/SDC16075.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/psw05k2ep/)http://s17.postimage.org/nx6jxdlu3/SDC16076.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/nx6jxdlu3/)

[Mark185]

Many years ago, I worked in an auto repair shop that also sold used cars the owner picked up at auction that he thought he could flip quickly for profit. He used to laugh and say to us, "If you can't make it fine, make it shine." The implication being clean, shiny paint and interior sells more cars than mechanical excellence. Looks like you are on the path to make it fine and make it shine.

I hope you have success finding an honest frame shop to repair the chassis damage. I can say with certainty, the shop I worked for sent out cars with worse frame damage than yours for repair. We did mechanical and body work but relied on specialists for pulling bent frames and welding in new members. My experience dates back to the 1980's but surely, there must still be some skilled craftsmen left. The first shop you got an estimate from sounds like a guy that only wants to do quick turn around insurance jobs. Nothing wrong with that if it works for his business but that is not the guy you want fixing your touring. The insulting way he responded is also a good sign this is not someone you ever want to do business with or recommend. There was no need for him to be an asshole while telling you he did not want the work. I don't know if you already understand this but you want to get estimates from frame shops that also do alignment work if they exist near you. Most body shops will not have this expertise and have to farm it out just like the shop I used to work for.

[M I C H A E L]

Only twice as much? I'll be REALLY lucky if I only put another $900 in it. Ha Ha. I don't mind investing my time or labor in something I believe in. I actually can't wait to refresh the underside, but everything's in decent shape for the moment. So, once I've got the rear-end frame done, I'll do the cosmetic part of the rear and begin on the engine / transmission preventive maintenance. Once that's complete- I've got to consider getting the paint back to a decent condition with original BMW Jet Black.



Excuse my retarded thinking of you only putting 900.00 Im sure it will be A LOT more. but what i mean to say is I see cars for sale that are 2-3 times as much as what you paid for yours, That were in WAY worse condition. I mean trashed interior.. completely beat up..

[Mahdude]

Ive seen amazing things done on a chassis machine. Your damage is light. That guy that talked about there's a reason why insurance companies blablablah is an idiot. Once the body is clamped down to the chassis machine one can easily pull those booboos out in any direction with a little judicious application of heat.
The car looks mint from the left side. Its obvious that you know what you're doing. Did I mention that the wagons are the nicest looking cars especially with sideskirts etc? You'll easily get back what you put in to it.
I wish u were in bklyn. Id say bring it to the body shop where I work. The guy there can slice a car in half and weld a clean half back on. I wish I I could post pictures.

[mgoods50]

Mark185- Thank you for the info and tips, and acknowledgment on my impression of the frame shop!

M I C H A E L- Ha Ha. $900. I'm going to try really had to keep up with what I spend on this one from the start. I figure since it's sort of a project, and low-cost, I should track it for fun at the least. Good to hear the validation too :)

Mahdude- thanks for the tip on the sideskirts; I'll check that out once I've got it into good driving and mechanical PM shape. Thanks for the comment about the shop too; It's good to know others got the same impression I did.


I stopped by an alignment shop today. Here's the specs. The rear toe out was out quite a bit on the left, and a bit on the right too.

Probably going to be hard to get a good idea of what's going on in the back until I get it pulled. As I understand, there is no factory adjustment in the rear for toe or camber.

The S.A.I. is beyond my everyday understanding, but from a quick google http://allentireco.com/info/alignment.php I learned this shows if the unibody is off. Clearly I'm out a few degrees.
http://s11.postimage.org/ctg6nkhun/SDC16086.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/ctg6nkhun/)


First memorabilia brochure came in today's mail too: This is the two-page sales pamphlet.
http://s18.postimage.org/qvk0guu5x/SDC16087.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/qvk0guu5x/)

[Binjammin]

So you overspent on a parts car, and have more time and money invested in it than it would have cost to get your m3 on the road with a head gasket repair...

Can't imagine why you bothered to waste time restoring those thrashed seats, especially the ripped one.

I'm sure you'll throw way more money into this project than you'd ever think reasonable, and sadly it'll happen slowly enough that you'll be nowhere near a finished, clean car by the point you're able to look back and tally the expenses you've laid out to get to that point. Everybody around here always loves a good "omg that owner's got heart" story, but the maths never really add up and most people just smarten up and walk away.

[Leonator134]

Go harsh someone else mellow dude.

This guy loves the car and has the time and funds (i assume) to slowly make it right. It's what he loves doing so let him do it.

[Binjammin]

Go harsh someone else mellow dude.

This guy loves the car and has the time and funds (i assume) to slowly make it right. It's what he loves doing so let him do it.

Let me explain the entire universe, then forums, and most specifically bf.c to you as succinctly as possible:

There's no idea so horrible that it won't have cheerleaders.


Let that sink in for a bit.

[mgoods50]

So you overspent on a parts car, and have more time and money invested in it than it would have cost to get your m3 on the road with a head gasket repair...

Can't imagine why you bothered to waste time restoring those thrashed seats, especially the ripped one.

I'm sure you'll throw way more money into this project than you'd ever think reasonable, and sadly it'll happen slowly enough that you'll be nowhere near a finished, clean car by the point you're able to look back and tally the expenses you've laid out to get to that point. Everybody around here always loves a good "omg that owner's got heart" story, but the maths never really add up and most people just smarten up and walk away.

Someone having a bad day?
Kettle, hi- this is the pot- OMG you're SO black!
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=25991021
post #35 I think?

I'm a fellow E38'er- as you've no doubt seen on the top right of my posts.

I'm sure you'd change your mind if in person. If you're ever down this way LMK- you're welcome to stop by and see the stable. Till then, consider yourself unwelcome on this thread. Sure you can come back and make more erroneous remarks if you choose to; that will speak volumes about your character. Perhaps "let that sink in a bit" ?


Go harsh someone else mellow dude.

This guy loves the car and has the time and funds (i assume) to slowly make it right. It's what he loves doing so let him do it.

Thank you. And, yes- I have decided to put a little time and money into this "parts car". It is something I enjoy. I've decided to dedicate the time into posting a detailed thread so others might learn something, get an idea, or just watch for kicks.

I guess I could spend my time applying my own paradigms to assumptions based on limited information- then publicly post admonishing comments. But then, IMO, I'd be the one that needed to "smarten up".

[Binjammin]

Someone having a bad day?
Kettle, hi- this is the pot- OMG you're SO black!
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=25991021
post #35 I think?

I'm a fellow E38'er- as you've no doubt seen on the top right of my posts.

I'm sure you'd change your mind if in person. If you're ever down this way LMK- you're welcome to stop by and see the stable. Till then, consider yourself unwelcome on this thread. Sure you can come back and make more erroneous remarks if you choose to; that will speak volumes about your character. Perhaps "let that sink in a bit" ?




Big difference between doing mechanical work on an engine and carving out the rear corner of a car to fix accident damage, bear in mind I also didn't have to pay for my parts to fix my e38, so my outlay is only my labor.

Truth be told, I don't really care that you have an e38 or an e34, it's meaningless to what I've had to say. Don't worry about me trashing your thread, I've made the point that you can use this as a reference in whatever arbitrary time you come to the aforementioned point where you tally your outlay and realize what you've spent vs. what you need to spend, only to have a touring that still needs a ton of work. The point of what I was saying wasn't that you shouldn't bother wasting your time on cars, but that you're going to spend way more than you realize, and not be happy with the results. It's just the nature of these cars, you can buy yourself a very nice example for $1500 all over the place, and be at a better starting point mechanically because you don't need to do serious body surgery. Go find a touring with a blown tranny, spend the $1500, swap all your good parts over, and dump whatever's left from your crushed car. You'll be way ahead of the game, have the same end result, and more money in your pocket at the end of the day.

[mgoods50]

Big difference between doing mechanical work on an engine and carving out the rear corner of a car to fix accident damage, bear in mind I also didn't have to pay for my parts to fix my e38, so my outlay is only my labor.

Truth be told, I don't really care that you have an e38 or an e34, it's meaningless to what I've had to say. Don't worry about me trashing your thread, I've made the point that you can use this as a reference in whatever arbitrary time you come to the aforementioned point where you tally your outlay and realize what you've spent vs. what you need to spend, only to have a touring that still needs a ton of work. The point of what I was saying wasn't that you shouldn't bother wasting your time on cars, but that you're going to spend way more than you realize, and not be happy with the results. It's just the nature of these cars, you can buy yourself a very nice example for $1500 all over the place, and be at a better starting point mechanically because you don't need to do serious body surgery. Go find a touring with a blown tranny, spend the $1500, swap all your good parts over, and dump whatever's left from your crushed car. You'll be way ahead of the game, have the same end result, and more money in your pocket at the end of the day.

Again, a paradigm and assumption based on perception- formed with limited information.

Congratulations on your parts. The implication was intended to demonstrate the same flawed-logic argument could be made for your venture. But, without knowing specific goals and parameters, one could not effectively apply any sort of argument. So I did not, I simply stated I was a fellow E38'er. Let me put it in simpleton terms for you: An E38 with over 200K on the clock? Diving into parts and fixing it up? Did you not demonstrate the same actions you are criticizing me for?

Thanks for the unsolicited financial sermon. The fundamental problem with your rebuttal is that you've assumed my goals are financially motivated rather than simply a transformation or project-- or just a way to spend extra time in a manner I find constructive.

Have you ever heard of cars being restored? Ever hear of people keeping things that aren't necessarily worth a lot monetarily, but have value of measured by other means?

I won't respond further to your long nose because it is not worth my time. I don't owe you an explanation, nor do I seek long-distance validation from someone with limited critical thinking skills and a hair trigger. You are welcome to your biased and myopic opinion nonetheless.:eyecrazy Pffft.

[ross1]

It's 15 year old car boys. It's easily repairable to whatever standard the OP wants to pay for. Getting the rear suspension square will be no big deal. A bit of metal work and a bumper cover later it will be a perfectly good DRIVER.
He's not building a church.
:banghead:

[mgoods50]

It's 15 year old car boys. It's easily repairable to whatever standard the OP wants to pay for. Getting the rear suspension square will be no big deal. A bit of metal work and a bumper cover later it will be a perfectly good DRIVER.
He's not building a church.
:banghead:


21 years old! And, if I say so- not too bad for the age considering it's history. It'll be a pretty good looker when I'm finished, and it will serve it's purpose well. (Run, drive, and look great for a 21 year old car).:eatpop:

[ross1]

21 years old! And, if I say so- not too bad for the age considering it's history. It'll be a pretty good looker when I'm finished, and it will serve it's purpose well. (Run, drive, and look great for a 21 year old car).:eatpop:

Yeah, I went to public schools. It finally occurs to me that all E34s are 18 yo+ these days!

[Binjammin]

Rofl. Ok man, you win. Go build your touring out of love and spite. Good to see bf.c is the same as it always was.

[mgoods50]

Yeah, I went to public schools. It finally occurs to me that all E34s are 18 yo+ these days!

Ha Ha- I know what you mean. I have to stop and think about how old the cars actually are. I got your point though :) Just thought I'd throw in the actual age for a little emphasis :)

[mgoods50]

Quick update:
Began removing some parts for replacement...

Air filter: WRONG FILTER INSTALLED- 2" too short- allowing unfiltered air to pass

Intake boot: Cracked (I knew this, that's why I ordered one) But FULL of dust caught in the oil that was inside

TB: Peered inside after removing intake boot, outside lip is CAKED in dust / oil- clearly this engine has been suffering with inhaling crap for a LONG time.

Frankly, I'm surprised the thing holds compression and runs.

No worries- I assumed a low level of PM- but really-- "tech owned"? I would be SO ASHAMED if I had owned this car previously!

[mgoods50]

Little update:
Haven't had too much free time lately, but I have accomplished a few things since first round of everyday PM parts arrived...

1) Air filter- replaced
2) MAF- cleaned
3) Intake boot- replaced
4) TB- cleaned, lubricated, and cable linkages adjusted
5) 1 bottle of Chevron brand Techron fuel system cleaner (I strongly prefer Liqui Moly products- but I had this on hand)

Another 32oz of leatherique prestene clean and leather rejuvenator are on the way, as well as more gummi phlem (ha ha)...

Gonna try to pull the VCG tomorrow and peek inside / replace depending upon what I see. Hopefully all will be well and I'll dump some diesel in there as someone suggested. I have two oil filters on hand so I can clean, then fill with fresh oil and run it a while..

Would have replaced the fuel filter, but I left the filter at home when I was at storage- then forgot the jack when I went home-- UGG.


If I have time I may do compression and leak down tests for reference... Just got a new Snap On's for both - Thanks Uncle Sam! :)

[SpiritofBavaria]

Hi Dude,

Glad to see an update on this thread. A mood lifter, for sure.

It may not be a good idea to redo the vcg. You'll likely need to replace the grommets for each bolt....everything would be super old. Do you have any vcg leaks ? If not, why not leave it alone? Unless you want to do it for the heck of it.

If you do, please ensure that you check up on where you need to put the sealant on the vcg. There are specific areas and no other. I'm not sure myself.

Secondly, please check the valve cover itself for straightness. Someone here had leaks on his recently despite a new gasket, and the problem was ultimately traced to a warped valve cover mating surface. Can be straightened out fairly easily.

If you pull the valve cover, please post pictures of its inside, as well as of your cams :)

Its best not to do the engine flush immediately after a new gasket has been installed. After a couple of days of constant driving, plus one quick retorqe for good measure, would be ideal.

Lets see some updates soon with pictures. And yes, though I didn't follow the drama earlier, I fully understand that this is a sculptor's creation, and so mere money is never going to be the baseline. Its not what you buy, its what you build. This is obvious to most.



Spirit

[Mark185]

Hi Dude,

It may not be a good idea to redo the vcg. You'll likely need to replace the grommets for each bolt....everything would be super old.

If you do, please ensure that you check up on where you need to put the sealant on the vcg. There are specific areas and no other. I'm not sure myself.

Spirit

If the engine runs and idles well, you probably do not have a problem with VCG. First step is to look down spark plug holes. If you see oil, then inner part of gasket is shot and needs replacement before you damage a coil. You should always replace the rubber grommets under the valve cover bolts. They get very hard with age. A thin layer of sealant is used under the rubber half circle parts of the VCG that fit into depressions on the back of the head casting. You should also use a thin layer of sealant on the corners where there is a seam between the front timing cover and the head. There are some good pictures of this on the Pelican Parts web site for 101 Projects for E36: http://www.101projects.com/BMW/Projects/009/pics.htm

That book is also a good source of DIY info applicable to the M50 engine and transmission in our cars. They were the same in 92-95 E36 automatics.

[mgoods50]

SpiritofBavaria- Thanks again for the tips. Please keep 'em coming- I hadn't thought of waiting to do the flush. Perhaps I'll do it first, before replacing the VCG. I also have a full set of seals for the bolts. "it's not what you buy..." Ha Ha- I forgot about that in my sig- but it certainly IS the way I do everything. You should see my other projects / interests!

Mark185-thanks for the insight; I appreciate it. I inspected those the other day, and they were pretty non-resilient. I always change associated parts including hardware- so I keep parts like that on hand most of the time. Thanks also for mentioning the 101- I've been meaning to add that to my library for a while. I think I'll go ahead and pick up a copy. I have to order a Bentley manual for this car anyway.

And, thanks for posting spot-on info about where to put the sealant. I've done a few on M/S5x engines, but many aren't aware of just how crucial that info is-- and it IS crucial!


There are a few leaks from the VCG. I circled the area with a good inspection mirror and strong flashlight and found a couple of areas leaking. I haven't been able to do any more work on the car (no spare time). I haven't pulled the cover to look down the spark plug wells yet- but plan to replace the coils / boots / plugs as part of PM anyway. Heck, I could probably swap in my HP set from my M3- I haven't checked the part numbers to ensure they cross though.

The weather here has been poor. Snow then a day of rain. I don't have a proper garage, so I'm forced to endure the elements if I am to enjoy my car hobby. Hopefully I'll have some spare time soon- and the weather will be decent... :)

I'm going to try my best to hook up my diagnostic equipment soon and see what it finds. I don't anticipate much, actually- the car runs pretty good considering everything it's been through. Smooth idle, no blips- what more can one ask for?

[SpiritofBavaria]

Hi Dude,

A. Since you've got vcg leaks, replace it first.
B. The engine flush can wait - its not mission critical, and by cleaning up the valve cover you do remove ALOT of dirt, rendering your flush more effective for the rest of the engine.
C. If your ignition coils are ohming out correctly, there is no need to have them replaced.
D. Replacing the coil boots and spark plugs is the first thing to do. A greater effect on ignition efficiency than replacing tired coils that are still within specs.
F. Change to Bosch Plat+4 plugs. At $7 apiece off amazon, they are twice as expensive as the standard 2 claw oem ones. However, they will last for nearly 100k without deterioration in capabilities thanks to the strong tips, and can be revived from fuel fouling very easily. Unless you wish to use 'performance' plugs, of course.

G. Have you checked your aux fan and its coolant sensor ?

http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_20.htm

It is a valuable fallback and too many people have it busted without realising it. I know of at least one chick who had an overheating incident due to a busted clutch fan. Her aux fan's sensor was busted as well. If it had been working fine, the aux fan would have run at high speed and maintained optemp.

H. What diagnostic equipment are you referring to ? Doesn't the stomp test work on your car ?

I. Any update on any better quotes on the chassis damage ?

Thanks and keep the pictures coming.



Spirit

[SpiritofBavaria]

Hi Dude,

A. Since you've got vcg leaks, replace it first.
B. The engine flush can wait - its not mission critical, and by cleaning up the valve cover you do remove ALOT of dirt, rendering your flush more effective for the rest of the engine.
C. If your ignition coils are ohming out correctly, there is no need to have them replaced.
D. Replacing the coil boots and spark plugs is the first thing to do. A greater effect on ignition efficiency than replacing tired coils that are still within specs.
F. Change to Bosch Plat+4 plugs. At $7 apiece off amazon, they are twice as expensive as the standard 2 claw oem ones. However, they will last for nearly 100k without deterioration in capabilities thanks to the strong tips, and can be revived from fuel fouling very easily. Unless you wish to use 'performance' plugs, of course.

G. Have you checked your aux fan and its coolant sensor ?

http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_20.htm

It is a valuable fallback and too many people have it busted without realising it. I know of at least one chick who had an overheating incident due to a busted clutch fan. Her aux fan's sensor was busted as well. If it had been working fine, the aux fan would have run at high speed and maintained optemp.

H. What diagnostic equipment are you referring to ? Doesn't the stomp test work on your car ?

I. Any update on any better quotes on the chassis damage ?

Thanks and keep the pictures coming.



Spirit

[mgoods50]

Spirit-
Thanks!

I used to use +4's in my M3, and in my 740, but have since replaced them with +2's. I never noticed a difference, and I keep very detailed logs of fuel mileage etc. Regardless, If the price has come down that much I'll change them to the +4's on this car (and moving forward with the others). Seems logical to me- another two electrodes = better spark / less overall wear etc., in simplest terms. --those are performance enough for me :)

I have not yet checked the aux fan. Depressing the A/C switch on the panel does not increase idle speed. Nor does the recirc switch move any flaps etc, no illumination on depressing either switch. Haven't checked further into the situation. This system is still fitted with R12 connections. On a sidenote- a clients car on which I was working last week (E30)- replaced the blower motor in his, and BAM! FREEZING COLD AC! I've forgotten how cold R12 is! His system is still fitted with R12 also. Not even sure if one can get R12 serviced anymore.

I have driven it a bit, and the temperature gauge stays where one would anticipate once warmed up- (I do know about the standard buffer built into U.S. model temp gauges). About 40 miles or so since purchase.

I do have a contact on the chassis damage- happens to be a shop that does that kind of work. We have a mutual client.

The diagnostic equipment I use is easydis, (old version) and INPA primarily- running on a Lenovo T60 with an ultrabay serial drive. I have it setup for OBDI since that's all I work on.

I'll take more pics when the weather improves. I've repaired the remaining door panels and they look much better. Not perfect; I didn't remove the door panels- I repaired them on the door. I normally remove them for repair but couldn't easily locate my supply of panel clips.

[Binjammin]

Your A/C is pressure dependent, all a/c systems are. There's a low pressure switch and a high pressure switch. Too low and you can burn up the compressor, too high and things burst. You can try jumping the switches one at a time with a paper clip in order to see if you're too low, but in all likelyhood you've got an old car, it's probably leaked out.

You can run a test wire to the positive lead on the fan, to see if it spins, or you can jump (memory rusty here) the purple wire to the brown wire in the 3 wire connector on the side of your radiator. The brown wire is ground, so there's only two possible connections to make it switch anyway. Remove connector, paper clip jumper and see it fan comes on.

[linklaterdavid]

Damn that's rough. I dare say $900 was too much. You certainly didn't steal it.

For an A to B car though, not bad. What really would bother me is that rear damage.

The rear damage can be brought to pay it's due penalty through the shipment of a couple of OEM Bumper covers and Bumper cover strips.

I Will make a point of escaping my beloved
Hockey Night In Canada tomorrow to send you the rear bumper strips. I havent done this kind of thing before, but for some reason, I just know you're good for the doe. They are a TAD scratched, but I guarantee nothing major. If you don't like, ship back. Ill pay both ways. But definitely, I Neeed need need your full mailing address bruv!



Shalom,
David.

[mgoods50]

The rear damage can be brought to pay it's due penalty through the shipment of a couple of OEM Bumper covers and Bumper cover strips.

I Will make a point of escaping my beloved
Hockey Night In Canada tomorrow to send you the rear bumper strips. I havent done this kind of thing before, but for some reason, I just know you're good for the doe. They are a TAD scratched, but I guarantee nothing major. If you don't like, ship back. Ill pay both ways. But definitely, I Neeed need need your full mailing address bruv!



Shalom,
David.

Oh no- don't miss hockey on my account- wait 'till Monday or whenever it's convenient. I sent extra $$ to cover PP fees BTW; hope it was enough. Thanks for the confidence :)

I can't wait to give it a little more euro flavor.

Be sure to LMK if you ever need anything. If I've got it- it will be yours.

In the vein of goodwill- let me say I've noticed over the past 15 years or so how "nice" ppl from Canada are. When I had my performance parts business in TX I shipped a TON of mdse there and made a lot of friends.

Sorry no updates or pics lately- been busy with work. Hopefully I'll have some time this weekend :)

[mgoods50]

Little update- Chassis shop turned out to be a hack-shop. Churn out low-quality as fast as possible type of stuff. So, back to square one on that.

Interior: Got a chance to begin applying more leather rejuvenator. I bought another couple of quarts- and have applied about another 4oz to the front and rear. Rinse water was just as nasty as before. I've never worked on leather this thirsty before. I'm beginning to wonder just how much more it will drink before it's had it's fill.

I've changed my application method to one I like better. Following tips from detailed image- Pour into a small container, and apply with a foam brush. I bought some of their brushes and some other detailing gear. I have so say- there IS a difference in the mdse quality. I love the blue microfiber cloths they sell; I've been using theirs almost exclusively since my first order- and I'm very happy. Grabbed some small applicator spray bottles, and some of their trigger sprays too. Very high quality stuff. Gonna try out a fine grade clay bar soon.

[mgoods50]

Another little update... I can't find my camera- I believe I've left it in one of my tool bags :(

Anyway, not much time over the weekend, but I did install a set of HP coils / boots from my M3. My M3 is parked at the moment; it's waiting on me to tear it down for a HG repair.

I pulled the plugs and was very surprised to find the correct NGK installed. I didn't have any replacements on hand-- other than the Bosch +4s'- and I've heard nothing good about them, so I chose to just clean the NGK's up a bit. They are ready for replacement, but wear shows even across all 6 cyls, and nothing out of the ordinary was noted.

I also replaced the fuel filter. I know it will SHOCK everyone watching this thread-- but let me say this was the dirtiest filter I have ever replaced. A lot of BLACK sediment came from the old filter. I always put a drip tray and a white towel down to look at anything that comes out. This one was full of crap-- I know that's a shock.

"BMW tech owned".... really? I would be ashamed to admit that if I were the seller. I'd not say so because the state of the car gives all of us a $hit name, IMHO.

I did also change the oil, and run a motor flush through the thing while it idled for 5 minutes. I know there are varying opinions on this- but I figured all things considered-- it needed it for sure.

I hope to spend some time next week on the cooling system with a full flush and refill. I've got about 50 miles or so on the car since purchase now. (driving is VERY limited, obviously).

I'll add that I LOVE driving this car. It is so comfortable. I prefer it over my E38, and E36 M3. I can't wait to have it's former glory restored. :)

I don't think I ever said how many miles are on the clock-- it has 242,ish. I love it :)

Final thoughts... the Leatherique is doing it's thing... the leather is softening up very nicely and looking great.

[Mark185]

I pulled the plugs and was very surprised to find the correct NGK installed. I didn't have any replacements on hand-- other than the Bosch +4s'- and I've heard nothing good about them, so I chose to just clean the NGK's up a bit. They are ready for replacement, but wear shows even across all 6 cyls, and nothing out of the ordinary was noted.

I have switched all of my cars over to NGK Iridium plugs and am very pleased with results. This is not generally advertised but Platinum plugs actually have a higher internal resistance than conventional plugs and much higher resistance than Iridium plugs. Manufacturers like Platinum because it wears very slowly and maintains the gap for a long service life. It has no performance advantages beyond that. Iridium on the other hand, has lower resistance and wears slowly like Platinum. I first learned of this through my involvement in turbocharged cars where the Iridium plug is strongly preferred. I can't say that the Iridium plugs get better gas mileage or make more HP because that would be BS. No spark plug is going to significantly improve these things on an engine in good condition. The Iridium plug will give you the potential for hotter spark with long service life. Where I live, they a comparable in price to the Platinum plugs. That sealed the deal for me.

[lovinlyfe4dub]

Great price.

[mgoods50]

I have switched all of my cars over to NGK Iridium plugs and am very pleased with results. This is not generally advertised but Platinum plugs actually have a higher internal resistance than conventional plugs and much higher resistance than Iridium plugs. Manufacturers like Platinum because it wears very slowly and maintains the gap for a long service life. It has no performance advantages beyond that. Iridium on the other hand, has lower resistance and wears slowly like Platinum. I first learned of this through my involvement in turbocharged cars where the Iridium plug is strongly preferred. I can't say that the Iridium plugs get better gas mileage or make more HP because that would be BS. No spark plug is going to significantly improve these things on an engine in good condition. The Iridium plug will give you the potential for hotter spark with long service life. Where I live, they a comparable in price to the Platinum plugs. That sealed the deal for me.


Thanks a lot for that info. I've never thought of it that way, and it makes perfect sense with extended service intervals (that I sometimes rant about, which began with the e46 models). I will certainly look into those plugs for the next change. I have several models on hand across Bosch (+2, +4's) / NGK brand (installed) and a new set of the F8LDCR's on the way-- so if I can remember, I'll measure them all for kicks.

[UKinNYinAUS]

It's 15 year old car boys. It's easily repairable to whatever standard the OP wants to pay for. Getting the rear suspension square will be no big deal. A bit of metal work and a bumper cover later it will be a perfectly good DRIVER.
He's not building a church.
:banghead:

Exactly right.. and if he is having fun doing it then so be it...

My E34 is now 22 yrs old and it would have made an AWFUL lot more sense for me to buy something newer and probably better. However, I really LIKE it. and as such the hours I have spent in the last few weeks mucking about with an old clunker have been a joy. I just ordered parts totalling nearly 10% of the purchase price of the car when it runs fine. make sense? no. but an enjoyable afternoon making the old girl run better? definitely.

[DUNNE44]

I think that was a good buy. I like it.

[Elekta]

Keep up the good work. All projects and parts cars are relative. I bought a parts touring for $350 because the roof rails were perfect, and to replace them was $800.

That turned into a $3500 touring trailer that isn't even finished yet. About to get another parts car for it and hatch parts for my touring, and as long as it's fun and you're not taking $ out of a kid's mouth/education, and your wife is not totally in the dark....and it's fun...do it.

Tourings are fun cars and they haul a fair amount of stuff
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/ggil-tx/bmw/elekta/DSCN2298.jpg

Did I say they're fun enough?

[mgoods50]

Elekta: Ha Ha- that's thinking! And- that is a certainly a fair amount of stuff-- and YES these cars are fun.

Dunne44: Thanks man- I'm pretty happy about my purchase. I never bought this cheap a car before-- and that was part of the pre-purchase criteria-- $1000 or less.

UKinNYinAUS: RIGHT on! It's ALL about the fun-- and I'm having A LOT.

I just picked up a set of really nice headlights from a fellow board member- they should be on the way soon. I also picked up a front tow hook cover and some rear speakers...

I still can't find my camera! :eyecrazy

[mgoods50]

So today I had a little spare time and thought I'd check the status of the battery with some diagnostic equipment...

I pulled out the rear seat, and UNSURPRISINGLY-- the negative cable terminal is completely covered in green growth. I thought for a moment there was some crystal growing experiment taking place. Ugg- so I wipe off what I could, then quickly realize the corrosion is heavy and thick. I vacuum off the crap, chisel away at the hard corrosion- then THOUGHT I'd be able to remove the nut on the terminal bolt. Yeah, right. That damn thing may as well be welded in place.

Water spray and baking soda + toothbrush later... No dice. Then I'm pretty sure I see bubbles from the bottom of the post near the case. Who knows. Daylight was dwindling and I didn't feel like breaking out a flashlight. Mopped up the mess, sprayed with grease in a can- hell with it.

I'll check on it soon. For now at least it's cranking well. I will likely have to cut the negative cable to get the battery out, and replace the battery / negative terminal to fix this mess. I swear I'll not hold my tongue if I ever again see the "tech" that owned this car.

Good news is that I hooked up my diag. equip and only found errors related to the A/C, and sunroof. The front sunroof motor manual operation hex port has a SCREW in it.

Bad news- could not "see" the transmission module, and the torque convertor is NOT locking up.

[Mahdude]

Someone needs to slap the PO!

[TylerP]

Not that much damage for a rear ended Touring..

http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp89/arathbone3036/rear.jpg

They usually buckle down takeing the roof and the whole back end with them..


did the person that did this walk away?

[mgoods50]

A BIG shout out to Yrureadingthis (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/member.php?67928-Yrureadingthis) for giving me a deal, and getting my E34 one step closer to ship-shape. For googlers and reference, these are the elips, not "smileys". Smileys have a short half-moon shaped cutout on the bottom horizontal half of the lowbeam for DRL. I just wanted to improve the function of the headlights while repairing the damage-- mission accomplished!

After:
http://s14.postimg.org/66m9p5uzx/SDC16093.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/66m9p5uzx/)Before: http://s22.postimg.org/98suk7nq5/SDC16074.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/98suk7nq5/)
http://s24.postimg.org/f9yea6msx/SDC16094.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/f9yea6msx/)

Now, nevermind the faded grille... I have something planned for that :)

Yes, that's a new hood badge. One on the back too. I saw those on the bay and couldn't resist. I wish I could find 70mm ones to match for my wheels now.

[Mahdude]

The dealer has the 70mm ones for the wheels. I ordered some yesterday. They were special order.

- - - Updated - - -

Did I mention I love the wagons?

[ross1]

[QUOTE=mgoods50;2613878
I will likely have to cut the negative cable to get the battery out
.[/QUOTE]

Don't even bother with the terminal, with the amount of corrosion you describe the wire is probably green under the insulation. The neg cable is a shorty and cheap to replace.

[mgoods50]

Thanks for that tip. I haven't even looked to see how long it is-- but that's a lot better idea than crapping around with old cable. I've got some on hand, if I can find it :) I'll have to look around for some terminals though; I recently sold the set I had on hand as spares.


Don't even bother with the terminal, with the amount of corrosion you describe the wire is probably green under the insulation. The neg cable is a shorty and cheap to replace.

Mahdude- any idea if the dealer has the black / white variety? I assume they probably do not.

I'm LOVING this wagon.

My wife drove it last week-- I wanted to put some miles on the fuel system cleaner etc-- It's got about 340 or so miles on the clock since I bought it. I'm just about certain it does have a failing head gasket. I really don't care though, I just want it to hold a little more until we move.

- - - Updated - - -

Welp, I looked up the negative cable on realoem- found out it's only about 3' or so. I went by my storage unit to rummage through my goodies- and can't find my thick negative cable (maybe I've used it all already). I have some 4awg, but would prefer to replace it with thicker stuff. What I have on hand is a little thinner than the factory installed cable and I never under-do stuff. Excess is best is my motto. Also realized I did sell my last set of spare terminals- so guess I'm off to the 'bay for a set, and some cable.

[ross1]

Thanks for that tip. I haven't even looked to see how long it is-- but that's a lot better idea than crapping around with old cable. I've got some on hand, if I can find it :) I'll have to look around for some terminals though; I recently sold the set I had on hand as spares.



Mahdude- any idea if the dealer has the black / white variety? I assume they probably do not.

I'm LOVING this wagon.

My wife drove it last week-- I wanted to put some miles on the fuel system cleaner etc-- It's got about 340 or so miles on the clock since I bought it. I'm just about certain it does have a failing head gasket. I really don't care though, I just want it to hold a little more until we move.

- - - Updated - - -

Welp, I looked up the negative cable on realoem- found out it's only about 3' or so. I went by my storage unit to rummage through my goodies- and can't find my thick negative cable (maybe I've used it all already). I have some 4awg, but would prefer to replace it with thicker stuff. What I have on hand is a little thinner than the factory installed cable and I never under-do stuff. Excess is best is my motto. Also realized I did sell my last set of spare terminals- so guess I'm off to the 'bay for a set, and some cable.
Did you get this sorted? I've sent you a pm

[mgoods50]

ross1- sorry- haven't been on the forums in a while, and I'm not getting PM notifications... I'll have to check into that. Will check PM after this post :)

Ok, So I'm tired of getting the runaround (and inflated estimates that are just plain stupid) about the repairs on the rear of the car. Today, I had some time to myself and decided to spend it with the touring.

I took matters into my own hands-- sick of looking at the rear end damaged, and did a redneck bodyshop fix. Before anyone has a heart attack-- keep in mind this is temporary and purely cosmetic.

One would be surprised how easily the rear pulled out 1" with a chain and a pole. Seriously-- I know how redneck that was, okay? I am tired of looking at the car bent up, and without a bumper cover on the right rear. I couldn't find my steel mallet so I bought a 4# one from Home Depot. I didn't take pics because my hands were dirty. Sometimes I don't wear gloves- this was one of those days. You are NOT going to believe what I accomplished in an afternoon.

I have only to work the side carrier for the bumper cover support bracket, and pull the rear about another 1/2" and I'm DONE, of course replacing the bumper cover etc. Again- I know that in the event of a collision, the rear will be compromised. I'm not that worried about it. I've been rear ended once in my gazillion miles of driving and frankly- the looks are more important at this point. If I see someone screeching into me, I'll be sure to place my head against the headrest :)

Anyway- I smoothed out the spare tire well, and did enough in the parcel area floor to be able to completely properly install all of the panels in the rear. I took a long striking prybar and smoothed out the tucked in area below the tail light. On the back hatch, I just used my gorilla hands and bent the thing back into shape.

While I had the plastic panels out, I shot all them with flat black vinyl and fabric paint. They look remarkably better. I'm going to remove the trim from the back / top of the rear seats and shoot them too. I also shot that awful looking trim across the front bumper. Just quickly masked the headlight areas- took a section of cardboard as a overspray shield- and went at it. Again- not perfection- but light years ahead of before. When summer comes I'll pull the front grill out and sand / prime / paint to make it look really nice. Also touched up all of the paint chips on the entire car.

I also installed the roof racks... tired of those flopping around in the parcel area... and-- it IS a touring anyway :)

Now, I'm REALLY anxious to put it back on an alignment rack and see if anything changed. The toe was a bit out before, it was tracking left (nearly evenly on both rear tires)... now that I think of it- it DID NOT track left on the drive home :)

- - - Updated - - -

Before touch-up for reference:
http://s21.postimg.org/4bpr1o8cj/SDC16094.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4bpr1o8cj/)

After touch-up
http://s21.postimg.org/d35ynf6f7/SDC16104.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/d35ynf6f7/)http://s9.postimg.org/tko6qbc17/SDC16111.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/tko6qbc17/)http://s9.postimg.org/oh63tlfor/SDC16112.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/oh63tlfor/)




This is next on the paint job list:
http://s11.postimg.org/t2ibs8pmn/SDC16095.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/t2ibs8pmn/)
To match this:
http://s13.postimg.org/behvk2xxf/SDC16096.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/behvk2xxf/)


Panels fitting nicely for a change:
http://s23.postimg.org/5x8p4ha3b/SDC16115.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/5x8p4ha3b/)

Again, I know this is not perfect, but it looks a hell of a lot better.
http://s21.postimg.org/wgamyx077/SDC16108.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/wgamyx077/)http://s22.postimg.org/4pb076bm5/SDC16099.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4pb076bm5/)http://s22.postimg.org/bwcp31mj1/SDC16101.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/bwcp31mj1/)http://s17.postimg.org/tyxa7otx7/SDC16100.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/tyxa7otx7/)http://s11.postimg.org/j8e5iq4lb/SDC16102.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/j8e5iq4lb/)


Notice in pic #4 above the re-painted vertical plastic trim- I think it looks a lot better than the faded grey Ha Ha! I didn't get the cargo tie-down aligned properly yesterday. I was out of daylight and tired of swinging a mallet all day / painting / drilling...

[mgoods50]

Lets see if this thing auto-merges yet another post-- SO IRRITATING.

Anyway- little update and pics to come tomorrow...

I cleaned that nasty mess of a rear cargo area. If you look at high res, you'll see those white dog hairs. I think it was a Briard. Anyway, they're about 1" to 1 1/2" long, and go straight up your nose if you get anywhere near them. The car was FULL of them before- now- only the rear. Right now-- damn near free of them.

I'm contemplating looking into some sort of dye for the fabric. I'd love to dye it all fresh black or grey. I don't like the faded purple look. At least it's clean now though :)

Also deep cleaned the wheels. That means toothbrushes and simple green. Surface is etched somewhat on the lips- but they look SO much better.

Investment totals:
1) Spare time over two months. ? IDK- I consider it therapy :)
2) $5 spray paint. (I had some on hand, but wanted a new can)
3) PM parts- I don't count those. (air / oil filter, plugs, oil etc.)
4) About $100 on headlights- could have gotten cheaper ones, or only replaced the single lens. I wanted updated ellips.

[atl530i]

Car looks good. I really like the progress that has been made so far. The rear look a lot better than it did before. If a BMW tech did own this car at one time, it would not be the first time I have seen a tech not care for their car. I've seen paint & dent repair guys drive around in cars that had more body damage than the rear of your car.

[mgoods50]

No pics- sorry. I didn't have my camera with me. Maybe tomorrow :)

1) removed failing (falling) fabric from front sunroof panel
2) peeled / rubbed with microfiber cloth until all the nasty flakes of glue were gone. Some remain on outermost edges- I frankly got sick of this crap falling on me after an hour. But for the most part, I've got a clean surface now.
3) rigged rest of headliner to stay in place while I decide what to do next. (little spring clips along edge where sunroof gasket goes-- believe me it's really classy! )
4) decided to take a closer look at the cooling system.
5) painted rear cargo cover, and rigged broken securing pin. Now it works and looks good :)
6) got a spare key made at my local ACE hardware store- it was the second BMW key the guy had made.
7) car got another good bath including engine bay / door jambs.

I'm kicking around the idea of just spray painting the sunroof panels with a matte finish textured paint. Obviously the surface would have to be completely free of any residual glue / foam.

I don't know why I assumed the cooling system was in okay condition, given what I've seen thus far on the car. I realized what I thought was OEM coolant was merely a stained reservoir. I drew out some of the coolant and it was pale brown. What the ?? What is brown? I thought to myself. I seem to remember from about 25 years ago that stop-leak garbage is brown. Drained radiator, installed Prestone super cleaner (sodium citrate). Filled radiator.

Q: Is sodium citrate safe in this engine? I figure it surely can't hurt much more than what's in there now. But, this is not something I'm used to doing. I did it because of what I saw and had a bottle handy.

That occasional misfire has gotten more prominent-- but not constant. I thought it may be a headgasket, but I can find no symptoms other than the misfire at this point.

Got about 500 miles on the clock now (since purchase).


Realized I better clarify that "brown coolant" comment. The coolant was completely translucent, I saw no reason to believe there was oil contamination, nor did I note any particulates. This is a pic I found off the net NOT MINE, and mine was NOT this red either: Mine just looked like slightly dirty water, really- but definitely brown.
http://s11.postimg.org/792id7xnj/0419131537a.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/792id7xnj/)

[Binjammin]

I don't know what you mean by sodium citrate for the engine, but if you're thinking of using it for a coolant, don't. I'm not a chemist but it sure sounds like a salt and an acid. It'll probably work to clean the system out, but I sure wouldn't leave it in there long, and I'd flush the living hell out of it after. Use a decent phosphate free coolant.

Brown btw is typically rust in a cooling system, and it's usually there when someone runs straight water or a way less than ideal 50/50 coolant/water mix. Too much water and things like the block will rust. If you keep flushing it and it keeps coming out brown, run a dilute vinegar mix to flush the rust.

[mgoods50]

I don't know what you mean by sodium citrate for the engine, but if you're thinking of using it for a coolant, don't. I'm not a chemist but it sure sounds like a salt and an acid. It'll probably work to clean the system out, but I sure wouldn't leave it in there long, and I'd flush the living hell out of it after. Use a decent phosphate free coolant.

Brown btw is typically rust in a cooling system, and it's usually there when someone runs straight water or a way less than ideal 50/50 coolant/water mix. Too much water and things like the block will rust. If you keep flushing it and it keeps coming out brown, run a dilute vinegar mix to flush the rust.

Likely rust, but the color was a little off-- I may be paranoid about the stop leak. Probably weak anti-freeze and rust. Car may have sat for a long time, but I'm not sure. The prestone stuff is reportedly the best OTC stuff you can get. I used it since I had a bottle on hand from long ago. The low concentration (about 10%) of acid arguably neutralizes in a normal coolant system (because of buffers)- but I'm guessing in this one it may have more effect. I'll probably run it as per label instructions, then flush, flush, flush, with the thermostat out.

For final filling- I've contemplated NPG for a while. I can't find g-48 anywhere (I don't think Zerex makes it anymore) so may just go with OEM BMW coolant.

If I get a good look inside the radiator I might consider the vinegar treatment. I've done this on other radiators- but only when they had a lot of scale.

Something else that reportedly works well for cleaning is automatic dishwashing detergent (never done it myself)- I can see how it would clean the daylights out of stuff, but I'm concerned to do that without pH testing and pre-dissolving. I don't see how it would remove scale / rust at all.

[Binjammin]

I've used cascade plenty of times, but it's usually when there's a failure like a head gasket or tranny cooler (built into the radiator) that releases oil into the system and I want to remove it. Cascade breaks it down and makes it easier to flush. I don't think vinegar would work as well on oils like that, but should work great on rust.

[07lilredwagon]

congrats...its rough, but I like it...check out my trailer project on the forum to see how I addressed a rear hit like yours...look under the carpet in the trunk to see the extent of the damage....it does collapse the crumple zones in there...but I banged mine out with a heavy hammer and had to replace one of the support beams...(I used a round table leg!)........HA

Love the wagons!

JP

(E91 and loving it)

[mgoods50]

Jeebus I've got to update pics. Looking back at that cargo area in the thread made me vomit a bit.

It's much cleaner now, and I've painted all those faded / scratched up panels. I've also added a few coats of forever black to the impact strips. Light years ahead of 2 months ago - that's for sure.

If only I had more time :)

[mgoods50]

Extra time= work on the "T"
Go ahead and click the pics twice- I'm using 3MP setting now for high resolution :)

1) Sprayed the cargo cover, and touched-up the cargo plastics a bit more. I'm using an old favorite- Dupli-color vinyl / plastic paint. I got a new can today abt. $8.
2) Performed Seafoam intake treatment. Then drove the living hell out of it on the highway.

1: look carefully at pic three and you'll see my quick-fix for the cargo-cover. A wire hanger, bit of adhesive, and a short length of vacuum tube- done.
http://s24.postimg.org/4kmwvvr1d/SDC16214.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4kmwvvr1d/)http://s15.postimg.org/ntudpceuf/SDC16215.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/ntudpceuf/)http://s15.postimg.org/ck1nue9t3/SDC16213.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/ck1nue9t3/)http://s16.postimg.org/iyawyiu1t/SDC16222.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/iyawyiu1t/)




General pics- the car is dirty, and has bird poop on it- but I think the paint condition still shows pretty well. Also, you can tell the trim has been treated, and I've done some touch up work.
http://s4.postimg.org/w36raqesp/SDC16218.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/w36raqesp/)http://s10.postimg.org/wtd3vocc5/SDC16217.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/wtd3vocc5/)http://s13.postimg.org/prgyx41er/SDC16219.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/prgyx41er/)http://s10.postimg.org/s8qxgqsmt/SDC16216.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/s8qxgqsmt/)

Nvmd the rear cover- I have to adjust that a bit. I got really creative to secure the cover onto the reinforcement



Engine bay:
I have not applied any type of "shine" product- this is just clean.
http://s17.postimg.org/3oka6756z/SDC16223.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/3oka6756z/)http://s10.postimg.org/jbasx4pkl/SDC16224.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/jbasx4pkl/)


My ghetto-rigged temporary headliner fix:
http://s15.postimg.org/g524rd3qf/SDC16221.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/g524rd3qf/)

Finally- this is what happens when you break the rear window wiper accidentally, and realize you don't really need / use anyway:
A vacuum cap, and a dab o' silicone. I can make this mod available in kit form for $24.87 :)
http://s7.postimg.org/epjsffgw7/SDC16220.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/epjsffgw7/)



2) Seafoam via intake tube, abt. $12.

No pics, follow instructions on can. I used a stubby flat-blade screwdriver lodged in the TB return screw to increase idle- it worked like a CHAMP.
Used nearly entire can, noticed a bit of smoke, so I shut it down at that point and waited the suggested 5 minutes.
Restarted, and headed for the interstate highway, smoking along the way and a bit of roughness noted.

Drove the living pi$$ out of it, in sport mode even- kept RPM's around 4, and did a few turnarounds, kick-downs etc-- RPM's to 6K many times. Manual shifts on turn arounds- shifts to 5-6K, highway kickdowns--- you get the picture. I NEVER drive my cars like this- but I certainly was hard on it this time. No smoke at all noted once I got on highway.

Result: Now, this could be placebo, but I swear it idles more smoothly, and revs quicker. I also noted the idle / off idle to 3K misfire less prominent. I drove it normally for about 10 minutes afterward, and could not produce the misfire. Before, it was present after warm-up, at idle (occasionally).

I then drove it for a bit with more throttle angle off-idle, and could not repeat the misfire. If I stab the throttle off-idle, it still stumbles a little / misfires- but NOWHERE near as it did.

Dx: repeat treatment, misfire due to filthy valves.

Hope my diagnosis holds. I'll re-treat over the weekend or next week.

Also pulled the intake cam sensor and cleaned it. It wasn't really dirty though.


With 242K + on the clock-- let's hope it starts tomorrow after the way I treated it today :)

Total to date $200. (not incl. PM like oil & air filter, oil etc).

[mgoods50]

Well damn. Fired it up today and the misfire was present still. Only drove a short distance, but after coolant temp indicated 11 O'clock-- the misfire was still here and there. I just ordered new NGK plugs. I ordered 20- enough for all three of the vehicles, so I'm going to resistance match them and install.

Sure I could do a compression test- but since the misfire is intermittent-- it would not indicate HG failure if the compression is holding at that moment. Same for leakdown. I can smell no fuel / excess hydrocarbons in the coolant, nor is there any "disappearing". Further, the oil continues to look fine, and there are no tell-tale signs on the side of the block.

This one has me stumped. I don't know whether to be irritated or intrigued:95


I'm also looking into dye for the purple cargo area. I've never used it before- but I'm not scurred!

[mgoods50]

Compression numbers were surprising. Of course today-the thing was not misfiring at all. I was going to do a leak-down, but just didn’t feel like removing the fan / shroud and all to gain access to the crank bolt. Maybe another day soon.

Test done at operating temperature, fuel pump fuse removed, WOT. Highest numbers / leveling out was achieved after 10-12 revolutions among the cylinders.

Make quick work of removing the coils
http://s7.postimg.org/4gypjb3tz/quick_work.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4gypjb3tz/)

Nuts removed, just place coils on top of intake.
http://s8.postimg.org/hsveh64wh/coils_above.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/hsveh64wh/)

Spark plugs out. A couple of shots of the piston tops. ALL are pretty gunked up.
http://s3.postimg.org/529am8ktb/coils_out.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/529am8ktb/)http://s9.postimg.org/3qk331nij/well_1.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/3qk331nij/)http://s11.postimg.org/44a42ikof/well_2.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/44a42ikof/)





Pics of crapped out plugs- (I have these on order). If you look closely, you’ll see evidence of rust- this is after I’ve cleaned them up a bit previously. I suspect the wells were flooded at some point. Oil leakage is not terrible- but it is present. I have a gasket set on hand, but haven’t the time just yet. Plus- my main concern is to Dx the misfire. I don’t care about the minimal oil leak at the moment.
http://s24.postimg.org/3urrnz0sx/plugs_2.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/3urrnz0sx/)http://s11.postimg.org/xlznycsvj/plugs_1.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/xlznycsvj/)


Compression test in action. I placed gauge where I could see it easily.
http://s22.postimg.org/4wky9o4vx/see_gauge_2.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4wky9o4vx/)http://s12.postimg.org/9xghs94vt/see_gauge.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/9xghs94vt/)


Cylinder #6 -#1 in descending order:
http://s22.postimg.org/iiq9fybwd/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/iiq9fybwd/)http://s21.postimg.org/62uf1f3xv/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/62uf1f3xv/)http://s11.postimg.org/4asejcj73/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4asejcj73/)http://s11.postimg.org/bfa7sdqgf/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/bfa7sdqgf/)http://s18.postimg.org/8305rsvx1/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/8305rsvx1/)http://s14.postimg.org/wrwqoz965/image.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/wrwqoz965/)


Results:
6: 235
5: 233
4: 230
3: 230
2: 235
1: 237

Only 7# difference from highest to lowest.

I squirted a little Seafoam in each cylinder before reinstalling the spark plugs for the heck of it. I believe I could see it melt some of the gook- but that may have just been lighting and the product flowing across the piston top. I also intentionally swapped up the plugs to the cylinders, for the heck of it to see if anything changes.

Clean your tools when finished. Dirty tools are nasty J
http://s24.postimg.org/dtlx1xp01/clean_your_tools_when_done.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/dtlx1xp01/)

Knuckle saver. I am SO glad I bought this. I have treated myself to quality stuff this year. Great on the hands, and very convenient.
http://s3.postimg.org/82q52rw4f/knuckle_saver_1.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/82q52rw4f/)
After I fired it up, there was a little smoke, but not much. Also throttle held constant at idle from about 1500 RMP resulted in dying engine- I believe the fuel pressure was not yet built up. It would idle, but increased throttle angle resulted in same- starvation of fuel. Tired of waiting, I began backing away slowly with the engine sputtering and threw a code! I’ll check it later. I was happy to see a CEL!

Ran like a champ on the way home- go figure. Regardless- a fuel pressure test is in order because of this, and things I noted on the spirited driving experience the other day. (on high RPM / speeds- it seemed as if it were running out of fuel basically. The higher the RPM and speed- it just seemed to run out of juice).

Sunroof works fine with the switch installed- ha ha.
http://s24.postimg.org/6vw1klbyp/sunroof_works.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/6vw1klbyp/)

I installed that visor thing too while I was in there. The rubber surround could use some trimming- something to save for another day. I blew out the front drains with 100psi air. No water on hand to check- but it seemed to be going somewhere besides back in my face.

I also lubed the tracks / pivot points etc with dry lubricant.
http://s10.postimg.org/d7plprs05/sunroof_visor.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/d7plprs05/)

And, I even crawled under the car to find out about this mystery transmission that had supposedly been replaced. Oh- GREAT—YAAAY!! (sarcastic) a GM. Lemmie tell 'ya- taking a decent pic is difficult.
http://s7.postimg.org/emkc5l5bb/trans_tag_4.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/emkc5l5bb/)

Tag identification:
GM 1219645 LK -does that 'LK' mean a rebuilt unit has been installed? that's the p/n indicated off realoem with the "-LK" at the end.
96042095
RO4 22 3957985

This is the A4S 310R transmission. Old designation THM-R1.

Anybody know anything about this transmission, other than the obvious? I looked it up on realoem and apparently early versions included a DIPSTICK! J I’m like to retrofit one, but casually feeling around on the case it seemed there was no plug- only aluminum- so L don’t know if I wasn’t in the right spot or the case is just solid in the dipstick area. I only jacked it up and didn’t have enough space to do a proper inspection of the area.

IDK if I want to start looking into why there’s no TC lockup- or continue this mystery misfire mess.

[mgoods50]

Tested the throttle position sensor today... made an instructable for reference...

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1988432-TPS-testing-via-DMM&p=26323713#post26323713

Checked out good :)

[mgoods50]

Rec'd plugs today, but don't know whether I'm going to use these or not.

I received BKR6EIX / 6418, instead of BKR6EK

I followed up on the resistance test I was doing on plug p/n's:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1986280-Spark-plug-resistance-findings-7404-amp-F8LDCR

[mgoods50]

Rec'd proper plugs, updated my spark plug test thread : http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1986280-Spark-plug-resistance-findings-7404-amp-F8LDCR&p=26338850#post26338850

Just need some time to install now... Between weekend wildlife rescue and rain the weekend seemed to have went before it started! I'm "cautiously optimistic" new plug installation will be a major improvement, and maybe solve the mystery misfire.

[mgoods50]

Ladies and Gentlemen,
I am pleased to report I believe the misfire is licked. I put about 10 miles on it, and had the wife drive it today for about 40 miles. 50 miles and not a single hiccup. Jeezus I love this car. It is definitely one of my favorites of all time, and while that may be for the function over fashion factor-- it's the best $900 bucks I've spent in as long as I can remember.

Now that the engine is running smoothly- it's onto the next issue: No torque converter lockup. Anyone have experience with this GM transmission that can point me in the right direction? I've not had time to do a fluid / filter swap. Some info points to that might be a factor.

- - - Updated - - -

Also- gave it the first complete fill up. Going to track mileage (of course)- will report. Yes, I only use 93 octane fuel. Gotta pull my DME. If I have a 413 I'm going to pop in my old Conforti chip I have FS right now. Might as well get a few extra ponies since I use 93 anyway, right?

[Aradaiel]

As far as installing a dipstick, the later transmissions weren't cast with the opening. It would require removal of the transmission and some machine work, much more work that it's worth.

Torque converter lock up is dependant on a few things. It needs to be up to temperature, not in "s4-s2" mode and a few other things that are trivial (roadspeed, ect).

Usually the EGS will store lock-up faults, if it's faulty. Most of the failures I've seen are torque converters or solenoids themselves. Doesn't mean it's not something else.

[HE53]

As far as installing a dipstick, the later transmissions weren't cast with the opening. It would require removal of the transmission and some machine work, much more work that it's worth.

Torque converter lock up is dependant on a few things. It needs to be up to temperature, not in "s4-s2" mode and a few other things that are trivial (roadspeed, ect).

Usually the EGS will store lock-up faults, if it's faulty. Most of the failures I've seen are torque converters or solenoids themselves. Doesn't mean it's not something else.

There is a guy that makes trans dip stick conversions for the E38's. He uses the fill hole, and then pipes up to the engine compartment, and uses a flexible cable type dip stick. With just a little but of ingenuity you could make one for the 6 cyl cars.
http://meurosport.com/5HP24_Dip_Stick.php

[Binjammin]

There is a guy that makes trans dip stick conversions for the E38's. He uses the fill hole, and then pipes up to the engine compartment, and uses a flexible cable type dip stick. With just a little but of ingenuity you could make one for the 6 cyl cars.
http://meurosport.com/5HP24_Dip_Stick.php

Yeah but after shipping it's like $200 to have a dipstick. :dunno

[mgoods50]

As far as installing a dipstick, the later transmissions weren't cast with the opening. It would require removal of the transmission and some machine work, much more work that it's worth.

Torque converter lock up is dependant on a few things. It needs to be up to temperature, not in "s4-s2" mode and a few other things that are trivial (roadspeed, ect).

Usually the EGS will store lock-up faults, if it's faulty. Most of the failures I've seen are torque converters or solenoids themselves. Doesn't mean it's not something else.

Yeah Mike, that's what I was afraid of-- TC and the plug. I felt around where I thought the [hopeful] plug should be, and it was flat. If I take the tranny out- it would never go back- rather be replaced with a manual.

That TC is pissing me off. When I first got the car, I did a quick scan and didn't get any codes. I scanned it today and the EGS is not found-- UGG. (using easydis).

- - - Updated - - -


There is a guy that makes trans dip stick conversions for the E38's. He uses the fill hole, and then pipes up to the engine compartment, and uses a flexible cable type dip stick. With just a little but of ingenuity you could make one for the 6 cyl cars.
http://meurosport.com/5HP24_Dip_Stick.php


Yeah, but Tom (the guy who makes them) does it on his own time- I've been bugging him for about a year to get on with it for another E38 transmission. I checked with him a few days ago for one on this transmission-- can't blame him or anything, ya know.

- - - Updated - - -


Yeah but after shipping it's like $200 to have a dipstick. :dunno

And- that's another thing!

[mgoods50]

YIKES! While checking fluid levels (away from home) I realized my master cylinder reservoir was EMPTY.

It was the grommets, or "plugs" that fit between the reservoir and the master cylinder. I made an instructional for reference.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1992715-Brake-Master-Cylinder-expansion-tank-plug-leak-repair

[mgoods50]

I've put about 1100 miles total on car since buying...


A little over two weeks on new plugs-- NO MISFIRES!!
A little over two weeks on the master cylinder reservoir plugs-- no leaks (of course).

Total $$-- about $220. That makes it about $1120 I have in the car total. Best (funnest) darn $1K I've ever spent.

We've taken it on two cookouts (previous two weekends), and it's been a lot of fun-- pop the hatch and listen to the radio while the charcoal gets hot, have a seat on the "trunk"... I'm lovin' the touring. :)

[M I C H A E L]

I've put about 1100 miles total on car since buying...


A little over two weeks on new plugs-- NO MISFIRES!!
A little over two weeks on the master cylinder reservoir plugs-- no leaks (of course).

Total $$-- about $220. That makes it about $1120 I have in the car total. Best (funnest) darn $1K I've ever spent.

We've taken it on two cookouts (previous two weekends), and it's been a lot of fun-- pop the hatch and listen to the radio while the charcoal gets hot, have a seat on the "trunk"... I'm lovin' the touring. :)

Nice dude. :)

[mgoods50]

Might not look like that big a deal to some- but I am so happy to get that ugly hole filled with a working driving light.

I got a little over enthusiastic and jumped the gun; I was worried it would not fit after learning not all of them are the same. The earlier models have one part number; the later ones another. The existing unit was a [later] projector type- and so was this one so I gave it a shot. I was glad the one I got included the bracket too.

The adjustments are smooth and usable too. Once it's dark I'll set them.
First pic is for reference- before headlights / fog light
http://s4.postimg.org/5ef20a14p/SDC16074.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/5ef20a14p/)http://s22.postimg.org/9jscfx965/SDC16618.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/9jscfx965/)http://s14.postimg.org/4hkch4myl/SDC16620.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4hkch4myl/)http://s14.postimg.org/s79s5tlbx/SDC16619.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/s79s5tlbx/)


That's not my leak btw.

- - - Updated - - -

I spent $50 for the fog, bracket & harness. Total on car / parts = $1170

[Mark185]

Might not look like that big a deal to some- but I am so happy to get that ugly hole filled with a working driving light.

I got a little over enthusiastic and jumped the gun; I was worried it would not fit after learning not all of them are the same. The earlier models have one part number; the later ones another. The existing unit was a [later] projector type- and so was this one so I gave it a shot. I was glad the one I got included the bracket too.


I spent $50 for the fog, bracket & harness. Total on car / parts = $1170
These are great cars but the headlights and fog lights are definitely not their strong point. If you do much night driving, you will be looking for upgrades. Most common headlight upgrade is to Euro versions of high/low beam assemblies and splice them into the US wiring harness. There is a fairly detailed DIY thread on this. I first went to HID upgrade in my existing US spec housings and while that was a big improvement, the Euro light beam pattern is much better. I have not found a good fog light upgrade yet. I don't find the stock ones very useful in real fog and snow and I have a 95 touring with the projector fog lights.

[Hoolie]

For snow driving use low beams..

Or high beams and sunglasses :D

Fogs are a giant waste of money and energy.. Useful as a hole in the head..

[mgoods50]

I use the driving / fogs mostly for low side filling light. I don't drive in much fog around here, and we don't have much snow-- so adjusted well, OEM's fill up the corners pretty well.

Now, on my E36-- those crap US headlights had to be replaced ASAP!

I have upgraded to the projector style headlights on the E34. And, as above- the projector style fog / driving lamps. They do "well enough" for my purposes.

I've seen retrofits for HID's in fogs and low / highs- but for this particular vehicle and where / time of day it's driven, OEM is doing a fine job. :)

Thank goodness I don't need more lighting right now :)

[mgoods50]

Haven't updated in a while, and I thought I'd take a moment to post the latest...

Washer jets haven't worked (huge surprise, right?)

So, after a good bath today, I pulled down the hood liner. I found completely disintegrated washer jets, both with broken off washer hoses. This didn't stop the PO from trying though-- the underside of the hood liner shows signs of a LOT of water, over a LONG period of time (again, no surprise- right?).

I didn't feel like digging out my spares, and decided to see if the jets from my poor parked M3 would work. Guess what? They DO. Heated elements and all... drop right in. Even the electrical harnesses clip together. FWIW- I did not have any reference data on the resistance of the elements, so I'm kind of winging it here.

But for now... I have washer jets that WORK :)

I also reattached the cruise cable and adjusted both the throttle and cruise cables. We'll see tomorrow if the cruise works. I makeshifted a fix for the cable sheath shipping out of the adjustment point (T. Meacham has an aluminum fix, and the spring metal clips are a BMW recall IIRC) with wire ties.

Will report results :)

Hope everyone is doing well :)

PS- anyone have a door lock pin? The little black screw-on part?

[cddallara]

I'm sure Andy or Ross have a few dozen ;)

Good job on the wagon!

[jfs356]

Probably already mentioned, but rear bumper/bumper covers are cheap and easy to find in the salvage yards, especially black for some reason.....

[mgoods50]

Thank you! I'm really enjoying this car a lot.

Ugh- forgot to try out the cruise today ! I'm used to it not working :)

Will try to remember tomorrow !

Ping... Ping... Andy, Ross?

Yeah, I gotta get around to the bumper metal and cover soon.

[mgoods50]

Update...

1) Cruise works fine.
2) 21.35 MPG w/ no torque converter lockup... 2K - 3K RPM on the highway. (Have to check what's up with the transmission SOON. INPA / DIS does not "see" the EGS)

--Is 21.35 terrible mileage?

3) Passed emissions with flying colors today. IDK why I was sweating bullets... Here are my numbers:

HC- 75 PPM, *limit was 220
CO- 0.03 %, * limit was 1.2
CO2- 14.5 %

--also, I'd really be up for someone willing to help me out (a place to work, and a car guy to shoot the crap with) with swapping the transmission-- (can't work on car here at my place)---

[sse34]

If I really feather my 530 I can get 26-28

And if I find a truck that's willing to let me ride there butts for less air resistance(actually give them more mpg because there is no vacuum behind there trailer) I can get 35mpg

[cddallara]

21 is good IMO. I get 19-20 90%city with the rack and bike. If I hit huge highway for any length of thine it goes up to ~26.

[mgoods50]

Yup- the lack of TQ convertor lockup is definitely hurting me on the MPG (that mileage quoted is basically HWY). But, still-- only 5-7 MPG difference between mine and you guys. Someday when I have time I'll look into it further.

This is really turning out to be my favorite car of all time!

[mgoods50]

Finally got around to swapping out the corroded neg. battery cable, and the battery. I swapped in my 850 CCA Interstate Megatron Plus, fully charged overnight and installed the neg. cable a fellow member was kind enough to offer at a great price.

Stupid #@$#@$ PO. Neg terminal is so corroded, it's a part of the neg. post. The post was loose, and had leaked a little.

Now - the car seems to start better too.

I started a thread with an AC question for you guru's.

[mgoods50]

256,xxx on the ticker now, and the touring is still a blast. That misfire has came back though- this car really likes fresh plugs.

Hope everyone is doing great- I'll try to not be such a stranger.... Lot of life has happened the past 9 months

[Kinghorn]

Well congrats and glad that your 900$ dollar investment has turned out to play such a important role. The e34 tourings are such bomb cars, i love mine just as much, cant even image if you upped the total spent to 3k instead of 1500 on the wagon. You'd go nuts, but have fun!

[mgoods50]

Changed the plugs (in 10 mins... Still got it ;-) ) today and she is running like a champ.

No misfire. Strange- these were the iridium plugs, had abt 5-6k on them.

Some will remember my post abt different plugs- copper/platinum/iridium etc. Anyway, my point here is that this particular engine doesn't care. It just wants really fresh plugs.

[Trasportador]

Bosch supers bro, that's all you want and need. ...

[Beitie]

Hey, just wanted to say that it's good to see you still posting. Miss ya in the E36 section, but good to see you still around.

[mgoods50]

Thought I'd send an update....

I've been really busy with work, and haven't been posting like I would like to. I've finally chased down that intermittent misfire and ...slap my face... it was one of the freekin' fancy-pants coils. I could not let myself believe that those coils, with less than 10K on them, would fail. I wouldn't let my stubborn self believe what was really in hindsight-- obvious.

I swapped in a decent spare, and it purrs like a kitten now. I'm testing cheapo autolite copper plugs- and they are doing great. Now that I've accepted that a had a marginal coil that was failing, I might swap in the other plugs in the future to see if there's any improvement in mileage.

Stats- 259K on the clock. That's about 18K I've put on it in 18ish months.

So, here's the really good news that I'm still jumping up and down about... Check out these emissions numbers. :)

http://s28.postimg.org/r7unbwmop/download.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/r7unbwmop/)

- - - Updated - - -


Hey, just wanted to say that it's good to see you still posting. Miss ya in the E36 section, but good to see you still around.

Thanks man, I'm going to try to get around more often. I appreciate the comment :redspot

[stoney85]

Fixed the bumper yet?

[mgoods50]

Lol, Kind of... I bandaid-ed it up with some fasteners. The bumper cover is there. Looks a heck of a lot better than it did when I got it. I pulled the rear end out the good old boy way, and pounded the rest in the inside with a mallot. Bent the hatch part with my hands. Looks 1000x better-- but NO.

When I was still working on it, I sourced a bumper cover a few times, and when I tried to pull the trigger and arrange shipping it was suddenly sold. I found one pretty close, but could never get a response from the seller. Sort of just put it on the back burner after getting aggravated with three sales that fell through.

[mgoods50]

264K+ on the clock...

Decided to repair the gansta lean. There are plenty of threads on this, so I'll just add the following-

1. If you have access to a welder, do that style repair. Why? Cutting the sheath and taping / covering with whatever might work loose. It did on mine. Also, heating the metal end method is sometimes not a permanent repair either. By adding a little length, you are not disturbing any of the stuff that might not go back together as planned.

2. What I did: Removed the seat and took it into the house. I'm too damned old to be contorted. Cut the sheathing, and added a good length of heat shrink to hold the sheath back together (after removing a portion of the sheath). I repaired 4 cables. Two had been previously FKD with, I would guess repaired by the lighter / heating the metal cable end part method, and it was a @#$@# mess.

3. Be careful when you use a drill to even out the seat. Ensure you don't unthread the end of the squared-off metal cable. This will prove a real beotch getting back into the motor if you do. AMHIK. I was repairing the seat back, and the rear seat base up / down. I ran the seat back down all the way, and ran the seat base up to its extended-most position. This worked well for me, and it sits straight in the car.

4. The socket you need is an E14 (external torx), for the seat bolts and seat belt anchor.

Cheers!

[mgoods50]

Thought I'd drop by and leave notice here as a warning for others.

Went out to go to work this morning and was greeted by this.

552684552685

This used to be a full, intact original front bumper with oem driving lights, no damage. (Thanks thieves, my wife and i needed the driving lights to see driving at night). Also front license plate delete. All original, from '92.

If you have any info, please contact me. The police investigator is supposed to be in contact next week.

[Binjammin]

:rofl What the hell?

[mgoods50]

got the bumper sorted courtesy of a new friend in Canada. And get this-Canada post shipping cost less than $40 USD. Bonus, aesthetic - replacement bumper has headlight washers. Plus this one is damaged, so maybe thieves will *&€$#÷ off to a junk yard next time and buy a part, rather than continue to be scum ...pitiful to have to repair your car this way. Additionally, I have taken measures to ensure the bumper can't be removed easily anymore (again, pitiful but apparently necessary)

Onto my update ...I recently intended to fix my darn third, LED brake light. I dont know what prompted me to check for voltage prior to soldering and heat shrinking, but Im glad I did because I would have been really pissed as I would have wasted a lot of time.

I dont have voltage in kep pos. 2, pressing the brake. The other brake lights are fine. I'm pretty sure my connections to the meter were good, and I got nothing on closing the hatch too. Can someone with a touring do a little test and tell me if the LED illuminates with the hatch up?

I borrowed a pic from anothers post for illustration ...circled is where I checked for power and got nothing.

558842

You know what, better yet- im assuming the PO had the correct wires taped / repaired for the brake light, i should not assume. What color are the third brake lights' wires?

[atl530i]

The brake light comes in the hatch thru the passenger side. It is a separate 2 conductor harness. The separate harness on the driver side goes to the defrost.

[mgoods50]

well now i feel dumber than before ha ha.

thank you kindly for saving me the trouble of looking up the info. those wiring diagrams in the bentley arent my favorite. i wait for the next opportunity to fix this !!

[mgoods50]

I can't seem to source a reasonable $ set of front bumper trim, reflector / lights, and bulb housings.
I seriously hate to think about buying new parts with all the good spares I'm sure are hiding here and there.
Anybody have a set taking up space? This is what I need ...
http://s19.postimg.org/rgckrb6wf/Photo_Grid_1453579077158.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/rgckrb6wf/)

I have managed to sort the fogs though. Cannibalising the set and brackets from my "new" e34, a fog that came in my trunk, and some parts I bought from a board member ...I managed to Frankenstein one good set, securely mounted. I'll take some pics tomorrow and share. I had to get creative mounting , because all five of the fogs have broken tabs. I came up with a near perfect solution, I hope it helps others with what would otherwise be unusable.

I completely disassembled the fog lights assemblies, cleaned, and reassembled the best parts for this car. I also modified the projector housing and I must say the output is amazing. Im tired of my wife and I not being able to see at night. I'll add a nighttime pic later. They illuminate better than the crappy headlights.

[ShapeShifter]

Dang, I just throw out a complete set of bumper trims with marker lights.

[mgoods50]

:crying:crying

Dang, I just throw out a complete set of bumper trims with marker lights.

[mgoods50]

I assembled the best parts among those on hand.
http://s19.postimg.org/kdx6ow7n3/20160128_190835.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/kdx6ow7n3/)

This is how I modified the projector housing. I used the poopiest projector lens housings I had, in case the mod didn't go well.
http://s19.postimg.org/5j8lapy27/20160128_191026.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/5j8lapy27/) http://s19.postimg.org/9gvv04kvj/20160128_191102.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/9gvv04kvj/)

Before assembly, I coated the gasket lightly with petroleum jelly. Finally, the clean, modifed, Frankenstein fog.
http://s19.postimg.org/egtb82qi7/20160128_191709.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/egtb82qi7/) http://s19.postimg.org/g9w7webov/20160128_192025.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/g9w7webov/)

For future reference when buying used fogs, ensure the following are present for a hassle-free installation :
http://s19.postimg.org/nra0pcqlr/20160128_193320.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/nra0pcqlr/) http://s19.postimg.org/62i9xqeun/20160128_193336.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/62i9xqeun/)

This is what you DON'T want:
http://s19.postimg.org/wouqmpj1r/20160128_193427.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/wouqmpj1r/)

If that's what yours look like, or you get a set that has a broken mounting tab, don't fret. My fix fits perfectly and works very well. The sharp edges grab into the plastic. The size is the same as what is used in the mounting brackets. As long as there's a little there to work with, it should mount securely. The adjustment will still function.
http://s19.postimg.org/mhc7aawtr/20160128_193916.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/mhc7aawtr/) http://s19.postimg.org/s6sfum2zz/20160128_200813.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/s6sfum2zz/)

Overall result of mod. sorry no before / after (bumper stolen, no fog pics) the bulbs are regular H1 55w osram.
In order of pics 1- headlights low. 2- driving / fog lights & headlights. 3- headlights bright. I feel confident opposing traffic will not be offended too much, if at all. Looking closely you see the bulk of the illumination remains in the same area as the headlights on low. There is some pattern spread higher , but not much.

http://s19.postimg.org/rvazhumjz/20160128_201515.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/rvazhumjz/) http://s19.postimg.org/45ljt5o6n/20160128_201526.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/45ljt5o6n/) http://s19.postimg.org/4we9yxqjz/20160128_201550.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/4we9yxqjz/)