View Full Version : Head gasket failure on 750iL
tonyro
12-17-2012, 08:58 PM
I think my head gasket failed on 99 750il. Anyone have an idea on cost to repair. I was in the process of replacing water pump and thermostat. Obviously that has been put on hold. Anyone interested in a 1999 750il with 93,000 miles. Black on black and every option. Email me if you are interested or call me at 610-533-5049. Thanks. Tony
TheLadiesMan
12-17-2012, 09:02 PM
Hmmm I may be interested. Gimme a few weeks to see what happens to my rear ended car. :devillook
Alpine 7even
12-17-2012, 09:57 PM
Hmmmmm.....possibly! I don't have a v12 yet.
TheLadiesMan
12-17-2012, 10:03 PM
Back off Darren, I called it first! :D
I already spoke with him. I'm planning on seeing it next week, if not the week after if my car is written off.
tonyro
12-17-2012, 10:05 PM
I just put two new batteries in the car, a new radiator and heater hose. I have had the car for two months. I bought it off a friend and have yet to title it. I am $2500 into the car. If anyone wants it let me know. I will try to post pictures tomorrow. I don't want to part the car out. my email is 2300hickory@comcast.net and my phone is 610-533-5049. Thanks. Tony
Alpine 7even
12-17-2012, 10:07 PM
Awwww! :mad:evil2
Well enjoy if you buy it Sean! And good luck!:buttrock
M I C H A E L
12-17-2012, 10:21 PM
gl sean bring this puppy home :D
noodlesandsam
12-17-2012, 10:51 PM
Not to rain on the vulture parade, but what makes you think the head gasket is blown? The m73 is pretty tough. What lead to this?
lowrent1
12-17-2012, 10:54 PM
I will buy it now cash money pm me
I don't need to wait for any thing let no got cash
Alpine 7even
12-17-2012, 11:29 PM
I will buy it now cash money pm me
I don't need to wait for any thing let no got cash
Get in line chief!:confused:shifty
tonyro
12-17-2012, 11:45 PM
I am going to do a little more research on what exactly is wrong. I assumed head gasket because of a loss of power and milky oil cap. However that could have been due to near empty gas and a lack of driving car for 3-4 weeks. I put gas in car and it ran better. The car idled too low at times and felt like it might stall. The check engine light began to flash right before this happened. The car did get to 110 degrees when i did the on board check and blew coolant everywhere (initially why I was replacing water pump because it was losing coolant out of the weep hole). Like I said, I am $2500 into car not including new water pump and thermostat that i bought today from VAC Motorsport ($400). The dilemma is do I put on the new parts before checking for head gasket failure or do I sell as is.
board57796
12-17-2012, 11:48 PM
It can be DIY'd if you have the patience and time. Ask me how I know....
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd246/board57796/Bucks20Engine20Teardown20100.jpg
WarMachine7
12-17-2012, 11:49 PM
I am going to do a little more research on what exactly is wrong. I assumed head gasket because of a loss of power and milky oil cap. However that could have been due to near empty gas and a lack of driving car for 3-4 weeks. I put gas in car and it ran better. The car idled too low at times and felt like it might stall. The check engine light began to flash right before this happened. The car did get to 110 degrees when i did the on board check and blew coolant everywhere (initially why I was replacing water pump because it was losing coolant out of the weep hole). Like I said, I am $2500 into car not including new water pump and thermostat that i bought today from VAC Motorsport ($400). The dilemma is do I put on the new parts before checking for head gasket failure or do I sell as is.
I would diy it and keep it, or at least fix it then sell, if you sell without fixing, prepare to get a very low number.
M I C H A E L
12-18-2012, 02:08 AM
It can be DIY'd if you have the patience and time. Ask me how I know....
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd246/board57796/Bucks20Engine20Teardown20100.jpg
Yikes :eek: I don't even want to know how many hours that took to fix...
noodlesandsam
12-18-2012, 07:58 AM
My 2000 750 leaked from the water pump weep hole at 130k. Original pump. Now at 155.5. I run at 105c at cruise, it drops to 99c under hard accel ( up hills, etc ), and goes as high as 110 - for short stretches in heavy traffic.
Also, I have the crank counter hold to remove the crank bolt.
tonyro
12-18-2012, 09:50 AM
Is KTMP 110 too hot on this car? What is normal? What level would be cause for alarm? Thanks. Tony
TheLadiesMan
12-18-2012, 10:03 AM
110 C is the max. But just becasue the temp is alright doesn't mean compression is sill getting in the coolant system.
noodlesandsam
12-18-2012, 11:53 AM
110c is high, but this is still within the buffered range of the gauge on your cluster. Others say that 105-108 is normal. I don't like it when it gets to 110. My oil cap shows some moisture if it has been sitting, or town driving. Is there any goop at the end of the dipstick?
das borgen
12-18-2012, 12:00 PM
anywhere between 108-111C is normal operation on the M62 and M62TU..thermostat is at 105C
I know nothing about the M73
board57796
12-18-2012, 12:02 PM
Yikes :eek: I don't even want to know how many hours that took to fix...
Haha good! Because I can't even remember how many it took.
tonyro
12-18-2012, 12:04 PM
no goop at end of dipstick.
noodlesandsam
12-18-2012, 12:49 PM
No goop is good :). How long can you run this with the water pump as is? I mean drive it. Idling in the driveway is not the same thing on these cars.
tonyro
12-18-2012, 12:58 PM
I can go about 10 minutes before it starts spraying out weep hole. I shut the car down and it just dumps coolant. I have been filling it with coolant and water after I let it cool down. It doesnt take much to get the float to extend. I think it looks alot messier than it really is. I think I am going to go ahead and replace water pump and thermostat (since I already have parts) and hope for best. Unless anyone talks me out of it!
noodlesandsam
12-18-2012, 01:00 PM
Dumps coolant from where? It sounds like you have a chance it is fundamentally ok.
I would go ahead and replace the water pump.
To check for a head gasket failure, check that the oil isn't milky and have the coolant checked for exhaust. If neither of those are the case, it is unlikely there is a head gasket issue.
It could be a valley pan, but it is very rare for those to go on the V12.
noodlesandsam
12-18-2012, 01:08 PM
I replaced mine in March 2010, a week before driving to Florida ( 1200 miles each way ). You need a new harmonic balancer bolt, and a good time to replace the main front seal. Do the belts as well. You will need a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar to brake the harmonic balancer bolt. Also, replace all water pump bolts. Sorry to ask, but what is your DIY skill?
tonyro
12-18-2012, 01:15 PM
Not much of a DIYer
When I say dumps coolant, I mean that it is dripping from all over the engine bay. It is coming from the weep hole.
noodlesandsam
12-18-2012, 01:24 PM
Ok. This ain't a 72 2002. This is a spaceship in comparison. We can talk you through this :)). If you want to talk.... PM me. I'm NY metro, you're in Philly?
tonyro
12-18-2012, 01:30 PM
ok thanks
There is a good writeup on www.e38.org.
noodlesandsam
12-18-2012, 01:43 PM
+1. E38.org is your friend.
How do you rate the condition of the rest of the cooling system? Do you know the age of the radiator, expansion tank, hoses, fan clutch, etc? What other history do you have on this car?
tonyro
12-18-2012, 08:21 PM
Thanks for all of the help. I managed to get the car home tonight. Temp never went above 110. The car actually ran perfectly so there is some hope. I must have been completely out of gas earlier. I started the car with the expansion tank cap removed and the car didn't spray coolant everywhere. After about 10 minutes it started coming out of the weep hole and the fan spread it everywhere. The oil dip stick showed know sign of milky color. The oil cap was clean as well. Hopefully this is a sign that the head gasket is ok. I am having water pump and thermostat replaced tomorrow. All total that means new hoses, radiator, pump, and thermostat. Is there anything else that should be done when in there? Thanks for the help. Tony
noodlesandsam
12-18-2012, 08:48 PM
Front main seal. Remember to get a new harmonic balancer bolt - stretch type, only good for one use.
Also an expansion tank. Get an oem from the dealer. I went thru 2 behr - service made in China.
jhonmagee
12-19-2012, 10:27 AM
Isnt tht high tempature to run?! I run around 92-95 average tenpature on 95 740 m60 jus driving normaly or highway max it wil go is 99 if its really hot outside
TheLadiesMan
12-19-2012, 10:55 AM
Isnt tht high tempature to run?! I run around 92-95 average tenpature on 95 740 m60 jus driving normaly or highway max it wil go is 99 if its really hot outside
You have the older thermostat. Ours run hotter. there I'd a diy with more information you can check out in the diy section
Sent from an addict's phone.
darkstarmedia
12-19-2012, 01:22 PM
In my last oil analysis they indicated traces of coolant in my oil. they said it might be a head gasket... re-check in 4k miles....
During that oil change I also replaced my waterpump I wondered if tht had something to do with it... we will see in another 2500 miles...
Richard
Front main seal. Remember to get a new harmonic balancer bolt - stretch type, only good for one use.
Also an expansion tank. Get an oem from the dealer. I went thru 2 behr - service made in China.
Actually, the bolt can be reused... the Online FSM does not indicate replacement for the M73TU (99+) IIRC...
Richard
BTW, I have the removal and install tool for the front main seal....
EDT: what happened to spaghetticoder.org? the online TIS/WDS is offline...
noodlesandsam
12-19-2012, 02:25 PM
Ok if you can reuse. Spaghetticoder no longer has TIS links. Bummer.
tonyro
12-28-2012, 03:05 PM
My mechanic is having a bear of a time removing the water pump on my 99 750il. Is there a special tool or something? He can't access the bolt behind the harmonic balancer. Does he have to remove the balancer to get to this bolt. I was told that there should be 13 screws or bolts to remove in order to access the last bolt. He is saying tht he does not see 13 bolts . Is he missing something? Thanks
board57796
12-28-2012, 03:20 PM
I am pretty sure it has to be removed. I know my mechanic removed mine when he did it. One or two of the bolts is behind there. You will need a new bolt for the harmonic balancer as someone else said.
darkstarmedia
12-28-2012, 03:28 PM
My mechanic is having a bear of a time removing the water pump on my 99 750il. Is there a special tool or something? He can't access the bolt behind the harmonic balancer. Does he have to remove the balancer to get to this bolt. I was told that there should be 13 screws or bolts to remove in order to access the last bolt. He is saying tht he does not see 13 bolts . Is he missing something? Thanks
Yes, you have to remove the harmonic balancer to pull the last waterpump bolt.
There is a really good writeup on e38.org. dont forget to replace all the o-rings.
Richard
Yes, you have to remove the harmonic balancer to pull the last waterpump bolt.
There is a really good writeup on e38.org. dont forget to replace all the o-rings.
Richard
The writeup on www.e38.org is stellar. You will need a new harmonic balancer bolt and it doesn't hurt to replace the waterpump bolts as well.
noodlesandsam
12-28-2012, 03:57 PM
Yes you have to remove the HB. I did it in the driveway myself. That is why I said I have the HB Removal tool. You also want to replace the crank seal, and in my opinion, the HB bolt. You can't get to the bottom wp bolt, or pull it out with the HB in the way. My cell is 914 356 6496 if you are stuck.
If your mechanic does not know how to remove the HB on this engine, he might not be the right guy for the job. The m73 is very complicated.
+1 on the e38.org writeups. That + TIS got me thru mine.
tonyro
12-28-2012, 04:15 PM
He has read the right up and is up for the task. I was just worried because I heard from a reputable shop to not even attempt to remove the harmonic balancer. I will let you know how it works out.
noodlesandsam
12-28-2012, 04:42 PM
Just re read the comment about 13 bolts.
If I remember;
1) fan, radiator, expansion tank, and all belts.
2) Remove piping for secondary air.
3) Remove brake ductwork
4) install HB removal tool, brace on frame ( where ductwork was ). Remove HB
5) 6 bolts for water pump come off. Pump is pulled off with pilot screws against timing cover. See threaded holes in new pump as a guide.
6) install new pump. Using NEW wp bolts and o rings.
That's it. Reinstall is the reverse of removal.
You will NEED a 3/4 drive beaker bar for the HB bolt.
It's not a bad job, but HB is not even a question if you read TIS, and looked.
Have your dude read this. I used this + TIS
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/dmarmga/M73%20Waterpump%20Replacement.pdf
tonyro
12-28-2012, 10:57 PM
he read the right up on e38.org. I will let everyone know how it progresses. Thanks for the help.
noodlesandsam
12-28-2012, 11:40 PM
Good. Not to nit pick, but it is a write up. Right up confuses me. I keep thinking something was upside down. :)
tonyro
12-30-2012, 10:43 PM
poor spelling goes a long way.
tonyro
01-06-2013, 11:01 PM
I give up! My mechanic can't get the harmonic balancer bolt off. He has tried everything and read everything. I am at the point where I might just pass the car along to someone else to tackle. I am not parting the car out. $2500 buys it. It will need new water pump.
Sorry to hear that.
If you are seriously considering selling, pics would help immensely.
TheLadiesMan
01-06-2013, 11:17 PM
PM Sent- It comes with the pump, right?
tonyro
01-06-2013, 11:29 PM
It won't come with a new water pump. I will post pictures when I get it back tomorrow.
noodlesandsam
01-06-2013, 11:35 PM
Save the car, find a new mechanic. I can remove that HB in less than 2 hours. For a fee, I'd drive to Philly and do it.
740il97g
01-06-2013, 11:47 PM
Sorry to hear that.
If you are seriously considering selling, pics would help immensely.
+1
tonyro
01-06-2013, 11:56 PM
noodlesandsam, how much to drive to philly to fix?
noodlesandsam
01-07-2013, 12:10 AM
Hey, let me think about how to do this that works for both of us, and we can work something out. I am in westchester county, by the tappan zee bridge. Where in Philly are you? Zip code is fine for now. What kind of work conditions are we dealing with? ( sidewalk work, garage, shed, etc ).
I can bring 1) HB tool, 3/4 breaker bar, and correct socket, crankseal tool. 2) a running v12 that was done by me
I need lined up 1) the car 2) the pump, and all o rings 3) new crank bolt from BMW 4) crank seal from BMW. 5) weather over 34 degrees F.
It's too late to call now, but pm your contact info, and a good time to talk on Monday.
Randall
doc4car
01-07-2013, 09:15 PM
This is where my car was running in June.
It has new thermostat,waterpump,radiator and hoses.
bteeley
01-07-2013, 09:48 PM
Hey, let me think about how to do this that works for both of us, and we can work something out. I am in westchester county, by the tappan zee bridge. Where in Philly are you? Zip code is fine for now. What kind of work conditions are we dealing with? ( sidewalk work, garage, shed, etc ).
I can bring 1) HB tool, 3/4 breaker bar, and correct socket, crankseal tool. 2) a running v12 that was done by me
I need lined up 1) the car 2) the pump, and all o rings 3) new crank bolt from BMW 4) crank seal from BMW. 5) weather over 34 degrees F.
It's too late to call now, but pm your contact info, and a good time to talk on Monday.
Randall
If you want a spare set of hands i can come and help. Or at least bring beer. If i had my tools id be more help. Let me know.
tonyro
01-07-2013, 10:56 PM
Randall is coming down Wednesday. This forum is great. Hopefully the car will be saved. Thanks for all of the assistance. Tony
Glad to hear it! :buttrock
Be sure to take lots of pics of the meetup!
Richard454
01-07-2013, 11:53 PM
Good deal...Yes- the car can be saved...I can't believe the mechanic couldn't remove the HB bolt...Just grab a longer breaker bar!!!
M I C H A E L
01-08-2013, 12:43 AM
Good deal...Yes- the car can be saved...I can't believe the mechanic couldn't remove the HB bolt...Just grab a longer breaker bar!!!
AHAHA i knwo right? he should stick to being the shops valet. :lol:lol
Randall is coming down Wednesday. This forum is great. Hopefully the car will be saved. Thanks for all of the assistance. Tony
:buttrock Right on! This forum is amazing. He will get it situated for you :)
leonard1985
01-08-2013, 08:56 AM
you still sell the car ?
tonyro
01-08-2013, 09:11 AM
From what I have heard and read, without the proper BMW tool, it is extremely hard to remove. Just glad Randall was willing to help out.
Richard454
01-08-2013, 12:37 PM
From what I have heard and read, without the proper BMW tool, it is extremely hard to remove. Just glad Randall was willing to help out.
A craftsman 1/2 drive breaker bar...6 point socket...and a few feet of tubing I had laying around that slid snugly over the breaker bar and you are there...
Richard
darkstarmedia
01-08-2013, 04:55 PM
I did the 1/2" breaker bar and pipe method. To hold the engine I got under the car with a large screw driver and put it in the teeth of the flywheel through one of the holes in the bell housing.
It took a few tries but once I got a good grip with the screw driver it came off.
I re-used the bolt. My front seal was leaking a bit but the tool and seal came too late. I still have the seal and tool new. I gotta pull it off and replace it one of these days.
Richard
noodlesandsam
01-08-2013, 04:56 PM
A 3/4 inch breaker bar ( without a swivel head ), and a 27 mm socket. And the tool.
darkstarmedia
01-08-2013, 05:02 PM
A 3/4 inch breaker bar ( without a swivel head ), and a 27 mm socket. And the tool.
is the "tool" used to lock the crank? got a pic of it in use (or not)? I am just curious.
Richard
is the "tool" used to lock the crank? got a pic of it in use (or not)? I am just curious.
Richard
The "tool" braces the pulley against the frame of the car for taking the bolt off rather than locking the flywheel.
There is also a magnetic protractor that attaches to it for measuring the torque angle when re-attaching the bolt.
http://www.samstagsales.com/bmw/bmw90886112420.jpg
darkstarmedia
01-08-2013, 05:28 PM
The "tool" braces the pulley against the frame of the car for taking the bolt off rather than locking the flywheel.
There is also a magnetic protractor that attaches to it for measuring the torque angle when re-attaching the bolt.
http://www.samstagsales.com/bmw/bmw90886112420.jpg
I see... We just use a regular protractor and made some marks for tightening.
That tool looks really useful if you are doing the job alone.
Richard
Quarter Tank
01-08-2013, 05:36 PM
Pretty cool guys! Save the V12's!
noodlesandsam
01-08-2013, 07:03 PM
That's the one. No protractor though. I tried to get it, but none were available at the time. I did it by hand. The tool in the pic is the key. We'll make sure everyone is updated by this time tomorrow :)
tonyro
01-09-2013, 11:05 AM
Well, Randall (noodlesandsam) showed up this morning after driving 2.5 hrs from New York and managed to free the water pump. With the proper tool, it all went smoothly. I can't begin to express how appreciative I am that Randall went above and beyond helping another forum member. Thanks! Tony
ATLglock
01-09-2013, 11:16 AM
Well, Randall (noodlesandsam) showed up this morning after driving 2.5 hrs from New York and managed to free the water pump. With the proper tool, it all went smoothly. I can't begin to express how appreciative I am that Randall went above and beyond helping another forum member. Thanks! Tony
Kudos...:buttrock
noodlesandsam
01-09-2013, 02:50 PM
Hey, it was a nice ride. Not even tired :)). I'm glad to help, and happy that it came apart so easily.
I am happy to help and share with this group.
Randall
tonyro
01-24-2013, 10:21 AM
Well the car is leaking from every hose. the mechanic did a hatchet job on the car. I have it at another shop trying to figure what it will cost to make it right. So far, new thermostat, water pump, radiator, and water pump pulley. I am at the point of selling the car right now. I will not give the car away! I have plenty of room at my house so space isn't an issue. If I don't get $2500 as it sits, I will part it out.
noodlesandsam
01-24-2013, 11:58 AM
I wish you and the 750 best of luck. It's a nice looking car. Let us know how it works out.
darkstarmedia
01-24-2013, 12:01 PM
Well the car is leaking from every hose. the mechanic did a hatchet job on the car. I have it at another shop trying to figure what it will cost to make it right. So far, new thermostat, water pump, radiator, and water pump pulley. I am at the point of selling the car right now. I will not give the car away! I have plenty of room at my house so space isn't an issue. If I don't get $2500 as it sits, I will part it out.
Wow, that sucks....
If I were closer I might make an offer on the engine just for a spare...
Richard
TheLadiesMan
01-24-2013, 06:29 PM
besides the leaks, how does it run? It's definitely not the headgasket, right?
tonyro
01-24-2013, 07:23 PM
I was told today it is definitely not the head gasket! We'll see tomorrow when I get it back with a few new hoses and a new fan.
tonyro
01-29-2013, 10:19 AM
Ok. I am getting the car back today. Everything is buttoned up and ready to go. No leaks! What started out as what I thought was a small coolant leak turned into a new radiator, thermostat, fan, pulley, belts and hoses and a complete nightmare along the way. I will post how things are after I get it tonight. Thanks for all the help. Tony
noodlesandsam
01-29-2013, 10:51 AM
Yippie!! I hope you get to enjoy it for a bit.
tonyro
02-02-2013, 05:11 PM
Well I finally got the car back. $2,000 later and running fine. Here are a few pictures. I may still attempt to sell the car soon. Let me know what you think. Thanks for the help along the way. Tony
TheLadiesMan
02-02-2013, 05:37 PM
How much?
tonyro
02-02-2013, 05:45 PM
Not sure on the price as of yet. I am about $5200 into car as it sits.
tonyro
02-12-2013, 01:03 PM
I put the car up for sale. $6,000. I have it in the for sale section. Tony
DL6297
11-10-2018, 05:50 PM
Found this old post that relates to my current problem of a confirmed blown head gasket. My inde mechanic did a compression test and various sorts of other diagnostics to the cooling system and is 100% confident it's the head gasket (on my 2000 750iL). Is there a real DIY fix? Mechanic is quoting $2000
CPHES
11-10-2018, 09:42 PM
He had many leaks - but not a leaking head gasket. This is a complicated engine, so 2k could be fair. If the water pump is elderly, you will want to do that as well. You have to be skilled to attempt this yourself.
740ilDuke
11-10-2018, 10:43 PM
Yep, a friend recently paid to have the water pump replaced along with a couple other things, ran $1100 - so $2000 for head gasket sounds close. Should be a write up on e38.org or bimmerboard.com - pretty sure i've seen one somewhere.
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