Questions about my DIY projects this week

[BM109R]

Hey Fellas,
I'm getting ready to do some work on my e39. Things to be done and replaced are as follows:
-oil filter housing gasket(leaking).
-clean icv and maf(might as well do this while in its vicinity).
-Disa valve replacement(annoying rattle)
-Change idler pulley, mechanical pulleys for both AC & Serpentine belt + all new bolts.
-Change AC & Serpentine belt (cracked).
-Valve cover gasket(leaking).

My two questions are:
-Where and should I use anti-seize when replacing bolts?
-My Vanos pipe looks aged but has no leaks. Car is at 93k miles. To remove the ofh I do need to remove the Vanos line bolt. When do these start cracking or leaking and should I replace this part and its washers too while I am at it all or let it be?

Future DIY projects are cooling system overhaul, and Vanos seals to be done next spring. Car drives great otherwise.

Thank you.
BM109R

[DrVanos]

The vanos oil line is a pretty reliable part, failures are not common. Yes you will need to remove the vanos line bolt. I usually use a crescent wrench on the bolt that goes onto the vanos. I don't really think that you will need antisieze for any of the bolts on that job. It is always recommended that you change the washers when you remove them but I don't think it is absolutely necessary. If you buy a rebuilt vanos from us it will come with two new crush washers, anyway goodluck with your wrenching!

[cwise12]

I've done all of these jobs on my 525, except for ICV/MAF and the disa valve.

I put anti-seize on all the VC bolts. Some of them were a bit tough to get out, so I figured a high-heat area like that deserves some. When doing the OFHG, my alternator bolts were REALLY hard to remove. My 12-point sockets couldn't break them loose without starting to strip the head (16mm! not a common size!) of the bolt. I had to buy a 16mm open-end wrench to break it free. I cleaned and anti-seized the CRAP out of these bolts when putting them back in. The top one is quite long and has many places where rust/crap could cause it to seize up.

As far as the pulleys/tensioners go. You won't easily be able to find new mechanical tensioners (someone found them for sale aftermarket, but I just replaced mine with hydraulic for the serpentine belt. I got the top idler from BMW for like $75, not knowing I could get it from Pelican much cheaper. Make sure you have the big t-50 or t-55 (can't remember which) torx to release tension on the tensioners. Other than that, the replacement of the idlers and tensioners are quite easy. It'll help if you can get under the car for the OFHG job and to replace the AC belt tensioner. Make sure you torque properly and avoid over-torquing into the aluminum block!


As noted, replace the crush washers on that oil line. Buy at least 4... I ended up taking both ends off and was happy that I bought extra washers. I didn't replace the line itself, however I did replace the banjo bolt at the OFH end. Car has 200K currently and this work was done around 180k.

[Vipsa]

I would definitely replace the Vanos oil line. Mine started leaking at around 120k miles right where the line meets the metal sleeve for the banjo bolt. It was also back ordered in a few places.

[FlipredE36]

I'd also look into replacing the Vanos seals while you are in there.

[BM109R]

Thanks for the input fellows. I did find oem mechanical pulleys from pelican parts for my 03 530i. Searched part number from realoem then used that to search on pelican. Based on the advice by Dr. Vanos, I will replace the washers and bolt on the ofh end of the Vanos line but not the line itself. I will continue to monitor it and replace only when necessary. Not sure about anti seize yet. I will see what the condition of removal is to determine. I don't believe I need the torx screws for the 03 e39 pulleys.

Questions:
-does anti seize affect torque values on bolts?
-is spraying a little pb blaster on the idler pulley/alternator bolts safe and will it help make removal easier?


I'd also look into replacing the Vanos seals while you are in there.

True...might as well since I'm doing vcg. Oh well, gotta research DIY and buy parts. I know about the beisan system route but gotta check out Dr.Vanos to see what's the better route.

[cwise12]

Questions:
-does anti seize affect torque values on bolts?
-is spraying a little pb blaster on the idler pulley/alternator bolts safe and will it help make removal easier?



True...might as well since I'm doing vcg. Oh well, gotta research DIY and buy parts. I know about the beisan system route but gotta check out Dr.Vanos to see what's the better route.

-Nope. Install them as normal. Normally torque values are for non-lubricated bolts, but it'll end up being almost identical. The anti seize is really just there to make removal easier.

-I don't see why that would be a problem. If it were me, I'd be very careful to not get it on any plastic parts though. No idea what it will do, but don't want to find out. It will only really help if the head of the bolt is stuck... I know that the top alternator bolt has a good 3" of shaft before the threads even start, so it would be kinda useless there.

[BM109R]

I will be doing the belt and tensioner part of the repair tomorrow. I would like to know what size the torx for the AC tensioner is so I can go buy it in the morning. T-50, 55 or 60?
Thank you.
BM109R

[topaz540i]

At autzone for $10 you can buy a five or six peice kit for about $10. Worth the price since one is about $5

If you have the option buy the security torx type that have a hole in the middle. They are more usefull because they do reg torx as well as security torx, for example the type on the maf sensor to maf housing.

[cwise12]

At autzone for $10 you can buy a five or six peice kit for about $10. Worth the price since one is about $5

If you have the option buy the security torx type that have a hole in the middle. They are more usefull because they do reg torx as well as security torx, for example the type on the maf sensor to maf housing.


+1. Buy a good quality set. I bought both a torx and hex socket set a while ago, and i use the torx ALL the time. There are lots of TORX head screws on bmws. I bought a cheap set on Amazon and it has been perfect so far (no idea how long it'll last though).

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10071A-Professional-Grade-T-Socket-13-Piece/dp/B000J0TF6G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1353089470&sr=8-2&keywords=torx+socket

I forget what size that one is. I wanna say t-47 but I could be wrong.

Make sure you have a good sized breaker or torque wrench to remove tension... and go slowly. The tensioner will slowly start to back off as you apply torque to it, but it takes a good bit of torque. After you pull the belt a few times it'll become much more natural for you and you'll be able to do it in a heartbeat. Removing the tensioners may be slightly difficult without the fan shroud off. When I did this, I had the radiator out completely too. This gave me a LOT of room to get in there. It'll be difficult without the fan removed. If you're comfortable doing so, I'd recommend removing the fan and fan shroud before attempting this. It'll let you get in there really well to do the work properly, and allow you better access to the block to clean it before installing the new tensioner. I recommend replacing the idler wheel that's on the top alternator bolt when you do the tensioner too. Make sure you get a new wheel for the tensioner, too. If the wheel spins freely, the bearing is shot! it should be quite difficult to spin the bearing... this means it's lubricated properly inside.

[DrVanos]

BM109R Just wanted to clarify you will not need to replace the actual bolt! save your mulah just change out the small crush washers. Have fun

[BM109R]

+1. Buy a good quality set. I bought both a torx and hex socket set a while ago, and i use the torx ALL the time. There are lots of TORX head screws on bmws. I bought a cheap set on Amazon and it has been perfect so far (no idea how long it'll last though).

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10071A-Professional-Grade-T-Socket-13-Piece/dp/B000J0TF6G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1353089470&sr=8-2&keywords=torx+socket

I forget what size that one is. I wanna say t-47 but I could be wrong.

Make sure you have a good sized breaker or torque wrench to remove tension... and go slowly. The tensioner will slowly start to back off as you apply torque to it, but it takes a good bit of torque. After you pull the belt a few times it'll become much more natural for you and you'll be able to do it in a heartbeat. Removing the tensioners may be slightly difficult without the fan shroud off. When I did this, I had the radiator out completely too. This gave me a LOT of room to get in there. It'll be difficult without the fan removed. If you're comfortable doing so, I'd recommend removing the fan and fan shroud before attempting this. It'll let you get in there really well to do the work properly, and allow you better access to the block to clean it before installing the new tensioner. I recommend replacing the idler wheel that's on the top alternator bolt when you do the tensioner too. Make sure you get a new wheel for the tensioner, too. If the wheel spins freely, the bearing is shot! it should be quite difficult to spin the bearing... this means it's lubricated properly inside.

Thanks for the tip. For fan shroud removal, are there any hoses attached to it where I will loose coolant then later fill and bleed? I know I would have to remove the expansion tank. I guess ill take time to read the fan shroud DIY.


BM109R Just wanted to clarify you will not need to replace the actual bolt! save your mulah just change out the small crush washers. Have fun

Thanks. I did get the two washers.

[cwise12]

Thanks for the tip. For fan shroud removal, are there any hoses attached to it where I will loose coolant then later fill and bleed? I know I would have to remove the expansion tank. I guess ill take time to read the fan shroud DIY.

IIRC, there is only one hose that will need to be removed. This hose goes from the driver's side of the radiator over to the expansion tank under the fan shroud. This hose acts as an overflow vent for the radiator into the expansion tank. To remove the shroud, you don't really need to remove the expansion tank, just disconnect it from the shroud. I left all the hoses (minus the one mentioned) connected to it and I was fine. I would recommend, however, finding some way to plug the hose i mentioned. Coolant can leak out of it when you remove it. Also, purchase some extra small metal screw-type hose clamps. BMW likes to use those dumb, one time use clamps. I just replaced these with new multi-use ones from the hardware store.

Once the expansion tank is free from the shroud, it's just a matter of a few push-rivets, the hoses underneath the car that are clipped to the shroud (including the AUX water pump which can simply be unplugged) and i believe one electrical connector that needs to be removed. The shroud will then be able to be raised up out of its position, with the fan loose inside it. Not too bad... a bit of a pain in the ass, but not too bad. I hope this helps. Read a DIY on it and everything I said will make sense!

[BM109R]

Finally got to finish all the work yesterday. I did not take off the shroud and fan. It was tight but I managed by working both up and underneath the car. All new tensioners, idler pulley and belts on. New DISA valve, cleaned MAF and changed oil filter housing gasket. The alternator was a pain to put back. I tried tapping back the small tab but it wouldn't move. Finally I just cleaned all install points and wiped wd40 on them with a rag and voila! It was easy on and aligning bolt holes after that.

So now no more DISA rattle but I still have a rattle coming from the front area which I'm leaning towards it being the vanos. I also suspect some kind of vacuum leak due to a hissing sound which I can't pin point exactly but it seems to be in the air intake between MAF and throttle body. Perhaps these were masked by the louder DISA rattle that was there before. The car drives great though and I don't know if it is just in my head but throttle response is better than before. The MAF did not look dirty at all but I still sprayed some crc cleaner on it.

Tomorrow I will give it an engine wash and detail. Future planned work now is vanos seal repair, new tensioner spring, new intake hoses and new front brakes plus a brake fluid flush.