Rough idle, again, and some pre-DIY advice

[SGS3]

So I'm new here and I have been driving a 2001 750iL for a couple weeks now. I started to notice a bit of rough idle, mostly when the car is cold, sometimes it shakes a bit when I stop ... Nothing serious though, no light comes up yet.

My question is: I understand this issue will get worse, like rough idle all the time, but how long will that day come from now? Should I start working on it or wait until some light come up? Right now I'm a bit on budget, plus I need time to gradually read here and there about this issue and to feel more confident for DIY. Also, I read on e38.org, there're several threads about rough idle, but seems like each of them comes from different part. So what is the most effective way to figure out what/where makes rough idle in my car?

Side questions: A Bently manual is on the way. Where should I buy tools? Will a $60-$70 pack of hundreds pieces with almost all sizes of sockets (from Home Depot or Lowes) good enough? Also is it ok to work under the car with just the included jack? Well for sure I won't have hoist so jacking might be the only way, but should I go buy a stronger one?

PS: Is there any guy in Bay Area, specifically San Jose or Santa Clara, it's good to know.

[IcemanBHE]

These cars idle somewhat rougher when cold. Thats normal.

Until a light popped up..I wouldnt worry about it.

Welcome to the forum. :)

[Da Dark Jedi]

Welcome to the forum. I personally would never work UNDER any vechical unless supported by 2 plus ton rated jak stands (and additional safety of 6x6 blocks). As far as a jacks goes a quality 2 ton floor jack is a must. Both stores are good to buy tools from but check the warranty for the return policy if they fail like Sears has. I perfer the 6 point sockets, ratchets and so on from Sears. The Kobalt line of tools are also good (I think Lowes sells them).

For tools go here, they're prices are somewhat reasonable.

http://mytoolstore.com/

[mgoods50]

Welcome to the forum. I personally would never work UNDER any vechical unless supported by 2 plus ton rated jak stands (and additional safety of 6x6 blocks). As far as a jacks goes a quality 2 ton floor jack is a must. Both stores are good to buy tools from but check the warranty for the return policy if they fail like Sears has. I perfer the 6 point sockets, ratchets and so on from Sears. The Kobalt line of tools are also good (I think Lowes sells them).

For tools go here, they're prices are somewhat reasonable.

http://mytoolstore.com/



Seriously- DO NOT ever put anything you don't want crushed under a car raised by a jack. Sort of like pointing a rifle or gun- you just don't point at something you don't intend to shoot- gunschool 101.

Like others said- get quality stands, maybe some rhino ramps. I also place a wheel (or two depending on what I'm doing) under the rocker panel as a backup for additional safety.

You only get 1 head- once it's squashed- you're done. . .

Welcome!

[sigtwenty]

Motor mounts can cause rough idle.

[SGS3]

Thanks guys. Sounds like there's nothing I should do now rather than enjoying the drive!



You only get 1 head- once it's squashed- you're done. . .
Welcome!
I thought we have two? The other one might be small but as powerful though :lol


Motor mounts can cause rough idle.
Hi sigtwenty, so is there anything I should deal with that? Thanks

[mgoods50]

Motor mounts are easy on these cars. I believe using a bottle jack is the preferred method (I can't remember offhand if E36 or E38) perhaps someone will chime in-- regardless- it will be a useful tool to have.

Basically you're gonna put the front end on stands / ramps then use the bottle jack to slightly raise (lift weight) of the engine off the mount. You will need a long 3/8" / 1/2" extension bar. I prefer the 1/2". Long meaning 18-24". Universal joint, ratchet, and a socket to fit the motor mount nuts. You might be able to get in there with a short bar, but the hassle is not worth it. Seriously, you can change the mounts in these cars in a few minutes.

If you have any hydraulic leaks on the driver's side- fix that first. ATF / oil will ruin your new motor mounts.

While you're changing mounts, change the transmission mounts too. They may be called vibration dampers or transmission suspension etc.

How's the car doing?

[MOPARLEO]

This is not the car that you want to learn automotive repair on. Unless you have had more than just basic, simple maintenance experience, I would not recommend most repairs without at least having someone there that you can trust to give you quality assistance,and advice. A good thing to do would be to do some shopping for a reliable Independent garage that has specialized training on BMW repair and diagnostics. Check their websites. Find how long in business. Check the appearance of the business from the street. Look clean,neat, professional ? Stop in and check the shop for cleanliness, neatness, professional looking technicians. Do they use floor mats and seat covers? Person pulling cars into shop clean uniform, cleans hands? Tool boxes neat ? Waiting room cleanliness. Check with the local BMW dealers parts countermen for recommendations. A good garage will use only BMW factory parts. There is a difference, believe me ! I know this may sound extreme, but having been in the automotive repair industry as both a repair tech and later as a store manager, these are the things that will help you make the most informed decision you can make. A shop that isn't neat and clean, probably won't treat your car with any more respect than they:mechstuckdo on their place of employment.
Trust,fair prices and peace of mind are something worth looking for.:thumbup::cashwalle

[mgoods50]

This is not the car that you want to learn automotive repair on. . .

With respect-- why on Earth not?