style 5 on e36

[TPA36]

might pull the trigger on some style 5's. i know the bore size is 74.1, and the e36 is 72.56. would i need hub centric rings or adapters? probably a dumb question..

rings: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-328i-M52_2.8L/Wheels/Hub_Centric_Rings/ES1928282/

adapters: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-328i-M52_2.8L/Wheels/Adapters/ES1899554/

pretty big price difference.. :stickoutt

[M Quick]

Hub centric rings yes!

Those adapters are definately overkill to use imho. As hub centric rings for less money and regular spacers can be used instead if wanted so it doesn't affect the offset of the wheel :)


So just get the hub centric rings, plastic rings will do fine and last a long time.

[ItsBlack]

I bought some from ebay for $12 free shipping. ECS was charging 9 bucks shipping, plus the 10.99. It will save you a few bucks if you're really thrifty like me haha

Shipping was fast too, 2 days

[M Quick]

If you're really cheap you can actually make your own with a PET bottle and some tape, done it a dozen times until i recieved the real plastic hub centric rings.

Just cut out a small part of a PET bottle that is about as wide as the protruding hub from the car, then make it so it is going exactly a turn or two around the hub, if it's too thin or too thick, remove one turn and add electrical tape one turn at a time until you feel it fits snuggly, then bolt the wheel onto the car and enjoy in the meantime :)

If you don't have hub centric rings you will feel ALOT of shaking at speeds around 40-50mph already, really scary shakings!

[xlDooM]

Learnt a new ghetto mod today :cool PET bottle hub centric rings, booyah.

[flyfishvt]

Definately get the plastic rings. I ordered aluminum one after I saw the plastic ones. The aluminum ones aren't any better and definately not worth the extra. They are both super thin so they look cheap. Make sure you clean off your hub surface really good first. The steel hub and aluminum rims leaves deposits that build up and prevent the ring from seating correctly/properly on the hub. Some of those deposits were so bad I used a hammer and screw driver to chip them away then a wire wheel or some fine sand paper. Ive heard a few people recomend using a thin coating of "anti sieze" between the mating surfaces of the wheel and the hub to help prevent further corrosion.

[TPA36]

awesome. thanks for the input guys. just what i needed to hear

spending $10 makes me a lot more happy than spending $200 :redspot

[filmy]

+1 on the plastic rings and clean surfaces. The only thing the rings do is center the wheel on the hub for torquing so they don't need to be metal. TireRack sells them, and I think Discount Tire does as well. $12/set.

[M Quick]

+1 on the plastic rings and clean surfaces. The only thing the rings do is center the wheel on the hub for torquing so they don't need to be metal. TireRack sells them, and I think Discount Tire does as well. $12/set.



Actually 95% of all wheels are hub-centric, which means that the center of the wheel is what is holding and support the weight of the car from the wheels, usually when you see people loose their bolts or rip them apart when driving is when they don't use any kind of hub centric ring or something alike which can help having the wheel exactly at center.

Even if the wheel bolts are konical, they won't make sure you bolt the wheels onto the car right on or hold them steady at center after all rough road contact, that's why you need hub centric rings.

And anything you can squeeze between the hub and the wheel when the wheel center is larger will be enough to have the force spread around the center and hold it safely onto the car.

[GrünE36Vert]

No need to spend 200$. I had plastic hub rings for a while now and had no issues. I recently lost one of them so I ordered an aluminum set to try out. Costed me 15$ to fix the hub issue.