M30 Loud Valves/Injectors

[ILoveMPower]

Okay so some of you may be familiar with some TLC that my old girl is finally getting. Needless to say there is quite a bit of valvetrain noise. The shop that built my cylinder head says the valves were all set to specs. I am running an IE 284 cam with no wear and brand new rockers. She's still ticking significantly louder than I remember previously with all (worn) factory components and a need to do a valve adjustment. I'm also noticing the oil pressure light seems to take significantly longer to shut off upon cold start, once it even stayed long enough to pop an obc warning (~5 seconds)

Things to note

- Flow-tested rebuilt bosch mustang injectors were installed into the fuel rail years back when the project initially started. They seem to be ticking incredibly loud as well. I've already ran some fuel injector cleaner through the tank to see if they quieted a bit to no avail.

- Running Rotella 15/40, same as I always have

- Cylinder head has new cam, rockers, and hardware. Valves are the same old factory units.

- Running Gale's banjo bolts with loctite + wire

Now I've heard the valves ideally are quietest around .012" but have also read in several places that an even better solution may be to measure at the cam side and shoot for .009. Anyone have experience here?

I'm at the point I've spent too much time, effort, and money on this car that seems to be running great to have it be so damn noisy. I also refuse to do a burnout (which I owe to myself) until I can get some of this ticking quieted down a bit.

All input is much appreciated. Thanks to the last thread I made I discovered my timing was off one tooth and the car runs infinitely better upon fixing. Thanks so much to all those who chimed in.

Cheers,
- Jeremy :redspot

[TSMacNeil]

Yes

A cam side adjustment to .009 on a dead cold motor works if the valves are or may be cupped from high mileage wear. If you have a new cam but old valves, the stems may indeed be cupped. I suggest you try the cam side adjustment on an overnight cold motor and see how it goes.

[GIANUCCI E30]

Yes

A cam side adjustment to .009 on a dead cold motor works if the valves are or may be cupped from high mileage wear. If you have a new cam but old valves, the stems may indeed be cupped. I suggest you try the cam side adjustment on an overnight cold motor and see how it goes.

This^

just to add...
If the stems are a cupped pretty good cheap fix that relieves the need to remove the head again for valve replacement is lash caps.

Yes it's a bandaid but it will give you plenty of time run time till you pick up new valves.

Otherwise if your looking for spec performance from the work you already put in. You're going to have to replace the valves if the stems are badly worn(I don't think they can machine the heads of the valve stems. Don't think you'd want to that either.) then enter the vicious cycle of a valve job and adjustment.

IMO go with TS' suggestion first before venturing further. Maybe even do a oil change with heavier oil.

[Richardcranium]

Cam side valve adjustment on my car eliminated almost all valve noise. Just a light ticking from injectors and valves now.

[TSMacNeil]

The oil weight comment is a very good point. Lots of M30 guys use VR-1 20w50. The valve train and injectors on M30's are notoriously noisy, so you may never get it perfect. Valve lash caps are available for under $50 from VAC, Summit, Jegs, etc if you don't want to buy new valves. A careful camside setting should be ok though.

[paperplane94]

Not too tight, don't want to overheat the valves.

Should be sewing machine quiet.

[ILoveMPower]

Cam side adjustment worked wonders at .009, until I let it warm up a bit and gave her some revs. It appears I did not properly tighten one of the eccentrics and it let go to have a slight tick return again. Will investigate further tomorrow. Thanks for all input

[Bwaterman]

The oil pressure issue at start up is caused by the check valve in the oil canister leaking oil back into the sump.

[TSMacNeil]

Correct. There's a work-around for that.

[Richardcranium]

The oil weight comment is a very good point. Lots of M30 guys use VR-1 20w50. The valve train and injectors on M30's are notoriously noisy, so you may never get it perfect. Valve lash caps are available for under $50 from VAC, Summit, Jegs, etc if you don't want to buy new valves. A careful camside setting should be ok though.

Mine is perfectly quiet on M1 0w-40 euro formula. No need to run that thick syrup these days.

[TSMacNeil]

Well, that's the oil I run in my M3, but my M30 has about 200k on it and likes the ZDDP. Plus, road temps in Phoenix are about 130F so thick is good for me.

[Richardcranium]

Well, that's the oil I run in my M3, but my M30 has about 200k on it and likes the ZDDP. Plus, road temps in Phoenix are about 130F so thick is good for me.

The 0-40 euro does have higher than average zddp, part of the reason I chose it, that and BMW's stamp of approval.

The "40" in the 0w-40 IS thick, the "0" means less wear at start-up. Unless you are running on the track 20-50 is probably not the best choice. Of course arguing about oil is a lost cause, so enjoy whatever you choose to run.

[TSMacNeil]

Yeah, I usually live over at mye28 dot com for M30 and e28 discussions. This has been beaten to death. I've been using the VR1 for years, happy motor.
Synthetic is great stuff, but, but notsomuch for high mileage motors, IMO.

Whatever works for you

[GGray]

My 535is has ALWAYS had noisy valve train, I've owned it since 1993, along with most of the M10's and other M30's I have heard/worked on.

They just aren't quiet motors. If you have them set your fine. I run 20/50 in mine and it helps some.

Just put a louder muffler on took care of my valve train noise :D That and the turbo....

[ILoveMPower]

All is well with the M30, she is running stronger than she has in the last 100k miles I've put on her. Oil filter canister does appear to be the culprit... I've looked around and all of the solutions unfortunately seem a bit pricey. Anyone have experience in a DIY fix? Currently the closest I've come to finding one is just whatever suggestions bmwe34.net is giving.

Thoughts and ideas appreciated.

[bblazen]

I'm interested in how the cam feels.. coming to nyc area anytime soon? :)

[ILoveMPower]

I'm interested in how the cam feels.. coming to nyc area anytime soon? :)

It pulls well, unfortunately I think my chip is having issues as it hits the limiter at only 5500 rpm, with the old cam this is where power started to die off, with the new one it feels like I should wrap it right out to 7k

I need to try and contact MarkD to see if he can help at all