T Clamp Torque Specs for Charged Pipes

[NY98M3]

What are you guys torquing you T clamps to? Mine keeps falling off the end of the Vortec S/C discharge side because there is not much to clamp down on there. Is there an alternative?

[VALSBM3]

Have someone weld a bead around the end of the pipe.

[NY98M3]

Have someone weld a bead around the end of the pipe.

then I would never be able to get the clamp to set right...there is only about the width of the clamp on the charger to bite down on...

[protomor]

you can roll the ends. you don't have to weld on it. I torque mine down to a spec I call "good and tight"

[NY98M3]

you can roll the ends. you don't have to weld on it.

Elaborate please...

[protomor]

Some pre made kits come with these. Even some ebay kits. The lips are bent out a bit so the clamp has a harder time coming off. I've seen someone weld a "tooth" onto vice grips and use that to roll the bead into it.

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o12/ZedxElite/Chaos%20Two/100_9242.jpg

[pbonsalb]

You need a bead roller for that, and the rolled bead goes in the same place as the weld bead would go, so that won't help if you have limited clamp space. I used the "good and tight" torque spec when supercharged, without any of them fancy T bolt clamps, and had no issues at up to 16 psi.

[Nomade30]

Hairspray is your friend. :)

[protomor]

there you go bead roller. Even a slight flare on the end should help.

[bawareca]

When I have a very small area to clamp and no bead I use loctite or gasket maker between the hose and the pipe.It will never fail again and it can be removed later without damage to the parts.

[futureroadracer]

I had issues with my E46 M3 and the throttle bodies. Cleaned the surface area completely. Then I bought locktight superglue, placed a small amount around the entire silicone hose. Clamped and never had another issue again. They come off pretty easy when needed as well. This was the only solution I found where a bead was not possible.

[cmzwirner]

I hear hairspray works pretty well too.

[SiGmA]

I think I was even told brakekleen will do the trick. I would spray something on and clamp a bit tighter.

[dinanstu]

I am assuming this the thermo-plastic tube that you need to clamp... I agree that you don't need the T-clamp...Its too wide and a proper SS clamp will suffice with enough grip.
A thin, wide line of flange sealant and let dry (before putting on the tube) will give something to grip on...and allow easy removal later...

[5mall5nail5]

I chose another route that doesn't involve hair spray or sandwich bags. Not so crazy am I!? :)

Consider a vband.

[milKt]

I LOVE
my cast end pieces that Captain Volk welded to all my charge pipes. Pauer torque.

The only way + the light of Lucifuge = 666 Fabrications

[dinanstu]

I chose another route that doesn't involve hair spray or sandwich bags. Not so crazy am I!? :)

Consider a vband.

The v band will be perfect if its thinner than the large T clamp... There isn't enough room for the T clamp between the lip of the thermosplastic tube and the pressure bypass nipple...
:)

[5mall5nail5]

The v band will be perfect if its thinner than the large T clamp... There isn't enough room for the T clamp between the lip of the thermosplastic tube and the pressure bypass nipple...
:)

I think some pics are in order. It can surely be done. For instance, I have a90 deg elbow welded directly to my turbo housing for this very same reason.

[dohcdoh]

it sounds like he is having trouble with the clamp thats actually on the supercharger, not the charge pipe.


...there is only about the width of the clamp on the charger to bite down on...

[5mall5nail5]

it sounds like he is having trouble with the clamp thats actually on the supercharger, not the charge pipe.

Right, and you can elinitate that by going to a vband junction off the S/C or welding a length of pipe to the S/C and putting a v-band or t-bolt there.

He's not too far from Mike R, you could hit him up to see about throwing a vanjan/wiggins/accufab coupler on there, or a v-band if it'll fit, and if not, welding an extension where need be, and then doing one of those clamps off that.

Unless he's talking about the s/c inlet. I can't tell which he's talking about.

[dinanstu]

I think some pics are in order. It can surely be done. For instance, I have a90 deg elbow welded directly to my turbo housing for this very same reason.

Pics will help, I'll be doing the same thing shortly...:shifty

The thermoplastic tube fits directly over the supercharger discharge pipe, so there isn't much room. Extending it may help, if that is the problem, but it has to be perfectly smooth, so when you clamp it, its true...
It also cannot extend too far, or it will block the PSI bypass nipple...

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1094388

[5mall5nail5]

Okkk now I see. You're talking about the s/c inlet side. That's more of a headache. You could try a thin t-bolt if you can find one. Check mcmaster.com they have t-bolt clamps of all sizes (diameter and width).

[dinanstu]

Ya, sorry I meant inlet side....long day....

I am assuming NY is having this issue?

[5mall5nail5]

He says in the OP that its the discharge side... so, I dunno. If its the discharge side then my idea of vband/wiggins/accufab/vanjen will do it. If its the inlet side... smaller/narrower t-bolt or welded lip on the inlet would work.

[NY98M3]

Here is a pic...I had it on there nice and tight but it looks like it walked off towards the middle of the hose...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/Ny98m3/Dinan%20RMS%20Stage%202%20SC%20Kit/DSC02226.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/Ny98m3/Dinan%20RMS%20Stage%202%20SC%20Kit/DSC02227.jpg

Here is a pic of the blower when it was out of the car....you can see the discharge side is very small where Im having a problem keeping the clamp on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/Ny98m3/Dinan%20RMS%20Stage%202%20SC%20Kit/DSC01871.jpg

[Sniz]

That's a bad design, have someone weld onto it or use a Sealant as suggested

[Colby Colbs]

Get a V-Band clamp kit in the aluminum flavor and weld it. I think that will be the best and most serviceable way to go.

[futureroadracer]

The clamp is too wide. It forces the hose off the aftercooler.

[5mall5nail5]

Yep perfect candidate for wiggins/vanjen or a v-band.

[cmzwirner]

I wouldnt v-band it. All you need is a 1/2" aluminum pipe with a lip welded on and you should be good.

Wait. Try this. Go to an autoparts store and buy a heavy duty steel wormgear hose clamp. As futureroadracer said, the t-bolt clamp is forcing the compressor outlet out of the silicone tube. A thinner clamp should work.

I have a regular worm gear hose clamp on an un beaded end of my intercooler piping and it holds 15psi.

[NY98M3]

Thanks for the replys!

I dont have access to weld a bead on to the discharge side. There is only about 1/2" of space to work with between the blower and the aftercooler.

Ill try the worm gear clamp. I thought the t-bolt clamp would of held it.

[pbonsalb]

Here is a pic...I had it on there nice and tight but it looks like it walked off towards the middle of the hose...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/Ny98m3/Dinan%20RMS%20Stage%202%20SC%20Kit/DSC02226.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/Ny98m3/Dinan%20RMS%20Stage%202%20SC%20Kit/DSC02227.jpg

Here is a pic of the blower when it was out of the car....you can see the discharge side is very small where Im having a problem keeping the clamp on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/Ny98m3/Dinan%20RMS%20Stage%202%20SC%20Kit/DSC01871.jpg

Your clamps are too fat. And you don't need T Bolt. Use some quality rolled edqe (won't bite into and cut the rubber or silicon) worm drive clamps. Ran these for several years while supercharged with aftercooler at up to 16 psi boost.

Anyone who has worked on one of these Vortech with aftercooler and M50 intake cars knows that there is no room to weld in an even more unnecessary and expensive Vibrant aluminum V-Band style clamp. There is so little clearance to the intake manifold that many of us sliced off three of the fins on the front of the manifold to make more room and even then, the fit is tight. The blower discharge cannot be clocked over more because the aftercooler is wedged in there so tightly there is insufficient play.

[5mall5nail5]

Your clamps are too fat. And you don't need T Bolt. Use some quality rolled edqe (won't bite into and cut the rubber or silicon) worm drive clamps. Ran these for several years while supercharged with aftercooler at up to 16 psi boost.

Anyone who has worked on one of these Vortech with aftercooler and M50 intake cars knows that there is no room to weld in an even more unnecessary and expensive Vibrant aluminum V-Band style clamp. There is so little clearance to the intake manifold that many of us sliced off three of the fins on the front of the manifold to make more room and even then, the fit is tight. The blower discharge cannot be clocked over more because the aftercooler is wedged in there so tightly there is insufficient play.

FWIW the vanjen/wiggin/accufab type clamps have even lower profile than a decently thick silicone coupler and tbolt/worm clamp

[540-S3]

Clampco T-Bolt Band Clamps (http://www.clampco.com/products/t-bolt-std.asp)
ZINC PLATED T-BOLT AND LOCKNUT
Maximum Torque 90 in.-lbs.
STAINLESS STEEL T-BOLT AND LOCKNUT
Maximum Torque 75 in.-lbs

I bought this torque screwdriver (http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Pro-Grade-4-Inch-Torque-Screwdriver/dp/B000RZ1D86/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1338351380&sr=1-1) to maintain a consistent torque on my clamps. The range this has works well for all of the difference size clamps I use. From the smallest worm clamps of 10 in.-lbs to the larger t-bolt clamps where I use 40-45 in.-lbs.

Most t-bolt clamps are 3/4" in width. It tight spots where I have a tight turn I use the constant torque clamps (http://www.breezeclamps.com/ct.htm) as they are 9/16"-5/8" in width. A small difference, but it helps.

[dohcdoh]

Why dont more people use the vanjen style setup? Quick disconnect seems like a nice feature.