Anyone have experience with the Eurosport Supercharger for the E36?

[blaam3]

I am currently looking at different avenues for getting more hp out of my M. One of which was the kit offered by Eurosport. I am wondering if anyone on here has experience with it and how it's worked out for them in regards to drive-ability and reliability.

[milKt]

The best on EARTH.

Many years spent with one.

"Perfected" :stickoutt

Contact TRM Tuning (http://www.racersmarket.net/index.php?option=com_contact&task=view&contact_id=1&Itemid=87) for purchasing and feedback of recent Eurosport High Performance technology.

[WK446]

There are a few owners on this board, of which I am one. I've had mine for quite a while (> 3 years) and my car is a daily driver. Mine is a bit more modified and still remains very reliable. You can PM me if you have specific questions. --- Dennis

[JamesM3M5]

I maintained and modified an M Coupe with Eurosport for several years before the guy sold the car and upgraded to a 1M. He tracked the crap out of that car for years, and the only problem the twinscrew ever had was a bad input shaft bearing after 40k miles. His car was one of the first OBD2 cars with the Eurosport twinscrew. By FAR, the best kit out there. It shows in the price, but for the linear torque, smooth driveability, and impeccable fit and finish, it can't be beat by any of the other centrifugal systems out there.

[milKt]

... it can't be beat by any of the centrifugal systems out there.

It's science.
It is torque.

[blaam3]

Yeah I have been hearing good things about it. So I was checking in with those who have actually used it. I am thinking that's the way I'll go in terms of forced induction for my M3. Did you guys just bolt it on, or did you do any engine work prior to install?

[JamesM3M5]

You will at least want a new headgasket, and check the head for flatness before installing the SC. Cometic is not required, but recommended, IMHO. ARP2000 studs are required. Top-notch cooling is required - Euro S50 radiator and Stewart water pump, 80C or cooler thermostat is good. Oil cooler is required for track use, not for street. Install new belt tensioner piston and new idler and tensioner pulleys. Have a can of belt dressing handy in case you get any belt slip. It helps rejuvenate the rubber and make it a bit sticky, which can get you by until you have to change the belt again.

They say use Mobil 1 15W50 oil in the compressor case, but I disagree. Motor oil is not designed primarily for use on ball/roller bearings and gears. I used heavy gear oil for the M Coupe - Motul 75W140 Gear FF. The unit is mounted sideways and reduces the effective oil volume, and the Mobil 1 came out dark brown after a few track events and month or two on the street. It also puked out the vent a lot more than gear oil.

[WK446]

JamesM3M5: Great tip on the gear oil. I never knew that grade could be utilized. ;)

That gear oil is for limited slip differentials - is that the correct oil to which you are referring?

[blaam3]

Alright that doesn't sound all too bad then in terms of building up the car to run the charger. Did any of you do the install yourselves? If you did was it hard?

[WK446]

blaam3: Since you don't have enough posts yet to send PMs, shoot me an email. My email address is: whiteknight446 at gmail dot com

[blaam3]

blaam3: Since you don't have enough posts yet to send PMs, shoot me an email. My email address is: whiteknight446 at gmail dot com
Thanks! Yeah I just came here from M3F where I usually post.

[JamesM3M5]

Yep, it's for differentials and gearboxes. Since the volume of the box in the SC is so small, and it's gears and bearings for Pete's sake, I figured a gear oil would be more appropriate. Sure enough, no problems, ran for years with it, changed it once a year, I think. The owner even put in a translucent teflon tube as a sight glass to see the fluid level.