E34 window issues (where can I get gear parts?)

[E34_525i]

I read a good number of posts on here and took my door panel off in an effort to diagnose my driver's side window problems.

The window goes down fine, will go up OK until it "slips" and will then keep powering but not lift the window.

I took the cover off the motor as per these instructions: https://web.archive.org/web/20111127044153/http://bmw4life.com/windowGear.htm



When I did that and operated the window I could see that everything would work until the plastic gear would spin without catching the "dampers" that engage the metal driver. I know from looking at the pictures provided and from common sense that the rubber damper portions are shot they were rotted / totally falling apart. I might need a new gear as well and will probably get one to be safe.

HERE is my QUESTION (any help much appreciated)... I need to get the inner rubber damper pieces that you can see in the link above. Any ideas??? Thanks!

[Raziel310]

Hey bro, If u got a junkyard or a Pull-apart JK near u, just pull the regulator w/ motor and ur all set! Had to do that to my PS regulator, $20 plux tax...

[E34_525i]

If I do go that route and pull parts from a junkyard, does anyone know what is compatible with a drivers window (besides another worn out drivers window)... Would one of the motors from the rear work?

Thx

[Dash01]

It MIGHT work to use left rear regulator, but get another opinion to confirm, or better yet, REALOEM.

Check the guide rails to make sure they and their felt liners are not buggered.

[Raziel310]

Yea make sure u aligned the felt and the guiderails so u won't break/bind the glass grab a spare window pane as well....

[Raym535]

I followed Shaynes' procedure last year to repair my drivers side front window motor ( '93 535i). My issue was the large white gear had sheared some teeth off. I went to the local yard and found a replacement motor (off of a E32) and used just the gear, not the motor. The motor was off the left rear passenger door. Shaynes' procedure is pretty straight forward. Only real challenge I had was prying off the cover to expose the gear. That sucker was glued in......

[ross1]

It MIGHT work to use left rear regulator, but get another opinion to confirm, or better yet, REALOEM.

Check the guide rails to make sure they and their felt liners are not buggered.
Motors interchange among opposite corners, not regulators. I have one for RF/LR

[Dash01]

When windows go bad, I assume the driver window goes first, then front passenger window, then maybe rear windows. Is this generally what happens?

I ask because it might be handy to pick up spares at the junkyard when available.

My beater car front windows were both inop. The door check had failed, pushed back and buckled the already rusted guide rail, binding the window and then breaking the brittle nylon sliders in the C channel, and buggering the felt guide rail liner. The stress may have just as easily stripped teeth from the motor gears. My point here is that when you have the door card off, check the whole works, otherwise you spend the time and trouble to fix a stripped gear, but then have it fail soon due to other issues as noted above. So, now I keep an eye out for a spare assembly. Got a good replacement door with all internals, glass, and mirror, for $50 in the correct color.

[E34_525i]

Went to the junkyard today and picked up a right rear... just to confirm... the motors are compatible DIAGONALLY... so front driver's side can be swapped with the rear passenger's side.

Hope to install it tomorrow night... I'll be sure to do a thorough check of the other internal components and lube everything up to avoid future issues.

[Russellc]

both of my rear window motors/regulators had to be replaced. Go figure. Lack of use?

[shogun]

Somebody downloaded Shayne's DIY for the window regulator repair on bmw4life ?
If so, please upload here or send it to me and I will add it to my website. Or is there still one DIY online?
Here youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGmMmUPjtsQ

Edit: have contacted Shayne, the author, if he still has a back up copy he can send me, he will check.
updated link https://web.archive.org/web/20111127044153/http://bmw4life.com/windowGear.htm

[demetk]

Although it's a bit of work you can also retrofit the more durable motors from earlier bimmers like the e28 or e23, and because of the gearing, they also turn your window into turbo charged monster.

[cirrusblau]

i have this bookmarked: http://www.atpartsmotor.com/index.php?lay=show&ac=cat_show_pro_detail&cid=&pid=155987

this was the ebay seller before that sold those plastic gears

[ross1]

It MIGHT work to use left rear regulator, but get another opinion to confirm, or better yet, REALOEM.

Check the guide rails to make sure they and their felt liners are not buggered.
NOPE, the regulator is vastly different, the MOTORS are interchangeable between opposite corners. RR motor works in LF position and vise versa.

- - - Updated - - -


Although it's a bit of work you can also retrofit the more durable motors from earlier bimmers like the e28 or e23, and because of the gearing, they also turn your window into turbo charged monster.

It would be tough to make them slower. I wonder if the slow closing was a safety mandate? Once had a '63 Cadillac which had windows that were fast as a guillotine.

[demetk]

It would be tough to make them slower. I wonder if the slow closing was a safety mandate? Once had a '63 Cadillac which had windows that were fast as a guillotine.

I wonder if BMW figured out that the plastic gears would burn up if they were forced any faster. :)

Click the pic for vid and let me know if I should slow them down.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c375/demet_/e34/530/th_e23windowmotorretrofit.mp4 (http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c375/demet_/e34/530/e23windowmotorretrofit.mp4)

[marshallnoise]

This is awesome. I wouldn't change a thing. I think the one reason for the plastic gears in the e34/e32 window motors is so that if it meets any resistance, the window will not continue to move. Its a safety thing. The problem is that metal and plastic do not like each other and metal always wins. How much work was this to convert them? I would rather do this than dick around with the original motors.

[demetk]

Not difficult at all. From what I can remember one of the holes on the motor lines up (the one on the bottom right). I then rotated the motor so that the motor gear lined up nicely with the regulator gear. Then it was a simple matter of drilling the holes in the regulator for the other holes in the motor. Interestingly, the motor gear matched the pitch of the regulator even though the motor gear was bigger. That window is still working in turbo mode to this day. :)

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c375/demet_/e34/530/e23windowmotorretrofit2.jpg~original

Oh and you do need to slice that bushing piece off the regulator so the gear can fit.

[marshallnoise]

Freaking rad. I am gonna get all 4 from a donor car and do this. Thank man!

[shogun]

I think the one reason for the plastic gears in the e34/e32 window motors is so that if it meets any resistance, the window will not continue to move. Its a safety thing. The problem is that metal and plastic do not like each other and metal always wins.

the GM has an internal overload relay. Copied from my German language tech training manual for the ZGE = GM, translate this with google for example:
Fensterheber und SHD:
Das Relais schaltet ab

-wenn laenger als 60 Sekunden ein Strom von ueber 36A oder
wenn laenger als 0.3 Sekunden ein Strom zwischen 36 und 60A oder (Ueberlastung)
-wenn laenger als 0.1 Sekunden ein Strom groesser als 60A fliesst (Kurzschluss)

Um die Laststromkreise TSH/ZV/ZS/FH/SHD sicher vor Ueberlast zu schuetzen, wurde zusaetzlich zur 30A Sicherung eine elektronische (reversible) Stromsicherung eingebaut.
Im GM wird der Spannungsabfall am RM gemessen, und je nach Spannungsabfall (Stromschwelle) unterbricht das Sicherheitsrelais den Laststrom .

Die Abschaltwerte der 30A Sicherung werden dabei nicht erreicht (diese wurden nur dann schmelzen, wenn ein Defekt an der elektronischen Sicherung vorliegt). Die Ansprechschwelle dieser elektronischen Sicherung ist so gelegt, dass immer vor Ueberlast der angeschlossenen Steuerungen automatisch abgeschaltet wird. Ein automatisches Wiedereinschalten erfolgt nach 60 Sekunden!!!! Jedoch nur dann, wenn diese Verbraucher abgeschaltet waren bzw kein Kurzschluss vorliegt.
Ein automatisches Wiedereinschalten kann 6 x erfolgen bei eingeschalteter Kl. 15. Diese Sperre wird aufgehoben durch Ausschalten der Kl. 15. Um die Ausloeseschwelle beim gleichzeitigen Einschalten mehrerer Verbraucher nicht zu erreichen, koennen bei der FH-Steuerung gleichzeitig nur 2 gleichzeitig angesteuert werden. Werden mehrere Tasten gleichzeitig betaetigt, so werden nur die zwei ersten Befehle ausgefuehrt. Sollte bereits bei 2 eingeschalteten FH die Ueberlastgrenze ueberschritten werden, so wird ein FH abgeschaltet. Dabei haben die FH = window motors vorne Vorrang.

in brief: overload
-wenn laenger als 60 Sekunden ein Strom von ueber 36A oder
wenn laenger als 0.3 Sekunden ein Strom zwischen 36 und 60A oder (Ueberlastung)
-wenn laenger als 0.1 Sekunden ein Strom groesser als 60A fliesst (Kurzschluss)

and the GM switches that function completely off and switches it on when ignition has been switched off once for 60 seconds. Terminal 15.

[shogun]

more pics here from E32 https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2467367-Driver-s-window-rear-passenger-regulators-stopped-working-at-same-time-fixed&p=30827482#post30827482

[shogun]

someone knows if the parts are same for E34 and E32? when I search for Window Regulator Motor Repair Roll Cog for BMW I can only find them for E34, E38, but not for E32.
Edit: found one, looks like the gear part for E32 looks different from E34, a shop in Turkey sells it, pics here https://www.ebay.com/itm/186562565658?itmmeta=01JCYKY1NHR1P6GSPEZVKY2DXR&hash=item2b6ffed61a:g:LB8AAOSwqXdmku2T Window Regulator Wheel Pulley Front 51321938367 68 for BMW 7 Series E32 735 740 , seller ESCAutoPartsUSA