Survey on upper control arm bushings

[EuroGeorge]

The 1,300 odd mile trip to SESF has forced me to admit, I can't stand the Grunts bushings in my upper arms...Very smooth roadsurface (how often does that happen?) they are superb. They have been in there now for 40K miles and they're STILL NOT SHOT!!! They gotta go.

I know what's out there, so lemmme know what you're using/how long and how you feel about em.

Thanks in advance

George

[eric1ono]

For someone not in the know, could someone post a quick list of what are all the available options?

Thanks,

Eric

[Layne]

I'm not sure what the Grunt's bushings are, are they solid polyurethane?

You can use the E32 bushings with some modification to them, that's what I have. They should be tougher than stock while still providing a stock level of isolation.


For someone not in the know, could someone post a quick list of what are all the available options?

Thanks,

Eric

1) Stock rubber
2) E32 or M5 jelly-filled rubber
3) solid polyurethane (many various manufacturers)
4) sperical bearings (wokke or moosehead)

[88m53453]

plus Meyle HD stock bushing, no muss no fuss

[EuroGeorge]

Steve. You have mail.

[NOLA6]

I just put new Meyle HD thrust arms in mine. Not sure what the old blue bushings were, but they totally disintegrated and rendered the car undriveable. The Meyles look much like the 750 bushings I saw recommended at big coupe (I bought a pair of those to mill down, but went with new arms instead to avoid more headaches).

[RSheiman]

1+ Meyle HD for that reason....what's a smooth road, where can I find one?

[Bert Poliakoff]

Moosehead Engineering and Wokke on this board are fitting spherical bushings into the UCAs. Wokke has had them on his own car and raves about them. If you don't know who Wokke is, he is the wheel guru out of Germany and anything he does is as good as can be. IIRC you are probablly looking at the arms with bearings installed around $250 and Moosehead, who is in the US about the same or a bit less. The bearing kit itself can be bought for less, but to avoid having machining done, I would buy the completed unit as they do it all.

[oldymcoldington]

http://mooseheadengineering.com/

[samsonevickis]

plus Meyle HD stock bushing, no muss no fuss

Exactly.


I just put new Meyle HD thrust arms in mine. Not sure what the old blue bushings were, but they totally disintegrated and rendered the car undriveable. The Meyles look much like the 750 bushings I saw recommended at big coupe (I bought a pair of those to mill down, but went with new arms instead to avoid more headaches).

I believe that's what the bushings on the Meyle HD are. E32 750 bushings.


1+ Meyle HD for that reason....what's a smooth road, where can I find one?

I haven't found one.

[Layne]

I believe that's what the bushings on the Meyle HD are. E32 750 bushings.

Not exactly since E32/E34 ones won't fit without machining, but they probably have the same rubber guts in them.

[Freshbread]

plus Meyle HD stock bushing, no muss no fuss

+1
If I have to replace them in another 110k...so be it.

[Tnarkowicz]

Another +++++ on Meyle HD arms, so far no problems in four years

Avoid TRW arms, installed a set a while ago, upgraded bushings with Meyle HD (yes specially made for E24, no need to mill) but ball joints went after 12 months.... and I was warned by Steve H.

[CW6er]

Make sure you install the arms on the correct side, they are marked "R" & "L" (make sure you order a right and left). They will fit on the wrong side but rub on a 225/50 tire at full lock.

Also make sure you have the full weight of the car on the suspension before you tighten the through bolt on the bushing in the arm. If you tighten the bolt with the arm dangling, the rubber in the bushing will be put in a permanent twist and fail prematurely. I believe that incorrectly installing the OEM stock replacement bushings is what gave the Factory bushings such a bad reputation (although they are a weak link).

To get the room underneath to tighten the bolt, lower the cars wheels onto ramps or if the car is on 4 jack stands, jack one strut up until it just lifts off that corners stand, tighten it, then go to the other side. The car is supposed to have a standard load in it also.

[Cjarvis]

Did Meyle HD 7 years / 37K miles back. All good!

[Freshbread]

Make sure you install the arms on the correct side, they are marked "R" & "L" (make sure you order a right and left). They will fit on the wrong side but rub on a 225/50 tire at full lock.

Also make sure you have the full weight of the car on the suspension before you tighten the through bolt on the bushing in the arm. If you tighten the bolt with the arm dangling, the rubber in the bushing will be put in a permanent twist and fail prematurely. I believe that incorrectly installing the OEM stock replacement bushings is what gave the Factory bushings such a bad reputation (although they are a weak link).

To get the room underneath to tighten the bolt, lower the cars wheels onto ramps or if the car is on 4 jack stands, jack one strut up until it just lifts off that corners stand, tighten it, then go to the other side. The car is supposed to have a standard load in it also.

Yes, good info and make sure to get the car aligned afterwards.

[NOLA6]

The car is supposed to have a standard load in it also.

That was the most fun part (NOT). 150 lbs here, 150 lbs there, more in back seat, more in the trunk, full tank of gas....

At least now I have a bunch of bags of concrete mix for projects around the house. I may make some stepping stones. Or maybe a horrible concrete sculpture or something.

[TJC1]

That was the most fun part (NOT). 150 lbs here, 150 lbs there, more in back seat, more in the trunk, full tank of gas....

At least now I have a bunch of bags of concrete mix for projects around the house. I may make some stepping stones. Or maybe a horrible concrete sculpture or something.

Just did this job on the E34 this past weekend and was fortunate to have the wife, daughter and assorted ballast (Flywheel, brake rotors, 5 gallons of fuel, etc) available.

BUT...you can make it "FUN". Just get three of your friends and a case or two of beer to make up the trunk ballast. Your friends can help with the changeover of parts and be the "load" when it comes time to torque the fasteners. Just be sure to keep the beer locked up in the trunk until after the job is done so the car isn't "too loaded"!