Clutch "notch" on '97 M3

[bluesguitar]

Hi guys-- I'm new to this section, having just purchased a '97 M3 with about 85,000 miles on the clock. Well cared for with all expected maintenance.

I've put a couple hundred miles on the car and have noticed that when the clutch seems all the way "down," if I push hard it will go down another inch or so. The clutch definitely is disengaged when I hit the first detent-- it shifts fine with no grinding or anything-- in other words I don't have to go through the detent to get it to disengage or engage. The clutch doesn't slip and otherwise feels completely normal.

I know the car was not driven much in the last year of the previous person's ownership, and my mechanic is just suggesting I drive it and see what happens after 1000 miles or so.

Any ideas? Thanks and looking forward to joining the e36 M3 fold! I'll post some pictures soon.

Mitch

[beamer4seater]

mine is the same way after having my clutch master replaced. At the floor the pedal has another 1/2in of travel. I have almost put 500mi on it since then and I have seen no evidence of it affecting anything, if anything, It has improved if that makes any sense.

[bluesguitar]

That's reassuring. On mine it seems kind of variable, sometimes a little extra pressure gives me the extra inch and sometimes I can't go any further. Other times even standard pressure goes through the detent and to the "new" bottom. So it does mess up the timing of my shifting if I'm moving through the gears quickly.

[Eddie916]

Happens to me too, but I think it's because the clutch arm bushings are worn and it's causing the arm to shift a little bit. I have UUC clutch arm bushings ready to be put in next time I find myself not too lazy.
I think it may in the long run damage the master, because it's being used beyond what it's supposed to.

[bluesguitar]

It "feels" like a bushing issue as opposed to the clutch engagement action and it does feel like there's a tiny bit of side-to-side slop when the pedal's almost all the way down so that might make sense.

[HeelAndToe85]

I would recommend you try to fix- or at least confirm the sticking problem. IF you identify it and deem safe to keep driving I would recommend a clutch stop and just install it to where you don't run into the notch any more so long as you can fully disengage the clutch still.
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/clutch_stop/pics_clutch/big_boy.jpg
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/clutch_stop/html_clutch/description.htm

[bluesguitar]

That's interesting. How does it attach to the arm?

[RahgBag]

It doesn't. Your car has a threaded hole under the clutch pedal for it. There should be a factory piece screwed into there already.

[bluesguitar]

You're right I see the little factory-installed pad. Thanks maybe I'll try that later.

[merlinfe]

I think it may be a combination of worn clutch arm bushings and you pushing past the rubber part of the stock clutch stop. I replaced my clutch stop with an all metal piece from Lowes. I think it was all of $2. It's in the bolt aisle. It's a 14mm by 1.25 pitch bolt with a large pad at the top of the threads, if I remember right (but don't quote me on that).

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=safari&gl=us&biw=480&bih=269&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=furniture+bolt+pad&btnG=&mvs=0#i=44

You just need to cut a few threads off with a dremel and your good to go.

[bluesguitar]

Thanks I'll check that out. Sounds similar to the piece recommended above that Bavarian sells for $20. Could I trouble you to photograph what you have so I know what to look for at Lowe's?

[merlinfe]

I'm away from the car now so look here:

http://http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=651166 (http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=651166)


The clutch stop is the same for a lot of the BMW range.
Like I said above, you need to cut off some of the threads but it really works better than the stocker. Best of all you can adjust it to suit your needs.

[bluesguitar]

Ok thanks. I got into my footwell and now realize exactly what's going on.

The clutch pedal comes down out of alignment with the rubber pad/stop. The "give" I'm feeling is the backside of the clutch pedal slipping off the left side of the rubber and going all the way down to the carpet.

So something is mis-aligned. The clutch works fine otherwise but I'd like a fix. In terms of a new pad, seems like it needs to be wider as opposed to taller.

[RuninDawg]

Sounds like you have side to side "slop" of your clutch pedal.

Yeah, a band aid fix is to get a wider stop(everybody sells them or make your own) but if you do have slop your bushings where the pedal hangs are shot.

Replace with after market bushings(delrin or similar) instead of the "cone" shaped OE bushings which are a weak point as you likely have found out.

[merlinfe]

The ultimate fix here would probably be an aluminum clutch lever, new bushings (derlin, brass, whatever) and a wider adjustable clutch stop.

Someone (*cough* vendors listen up) should make a kit with everything you need to update the clutch actuating assembly from lever to slave, lines included.

[beamer4seater]

where my pedal meets the floor there is a thick part of my rubber floor mat that serves as a clutch stop, so my bushings are probably toast.

[bremms]

Mason clutch pedal. Problem solved, never worry about the POS OEM pedal. YES it is a POS. A little pricey but it makes the clutch actuation better and will not distort. Slop is caused more by the stock pedal distortion than the bushing. Sure the stock pedal is cheap, but it will distort quickly when replaced. Fix it properly once.

[SavantM3]

Ok thanks. I got into my footwell and now realize exactly what's going on.

The clutch pedal comes down out of alignment with the rubber pad/stop. The "give" I'm feeling is the backside of the clutch pedal slipping off the left side of the rubber and going all the way down to the carpet.

So something is mis-aligned. The clutch works fine otherwise but I'd like a fix. In terms of a new pad, seems like it needs to be wider as opposed to taller.

Why are you pushing the pedal all the way to the floor to shift? halfway down or 70% or so should have the clutch fully disengaged


Mason clutch pedal. Problem solved, never worry about the POS OEM pedal. YES it is a POS. A little pricey but it makes the clutch actuation better and will not distort. Slop is caused more by the stock pedal distortion than the bushing. Sure the stock pedal is cheap, but it will distort quickly when replaced. Fix it properly once.


Link?

[fsmtnbiker]

http://www.masonengineering.net/

[bluesguitar]

I'm finding that if I keep the clutch from angling left it's OK so I'm kind of doing it without thinking now. I know the eventual fix will be the bushings and maybe a better pedal and shaft. Thanks for all the feedback. I'm a week into M3 ownership and loving it!