Need some help with turbo build

[JimsR]

Trying to get my car going, project has been sitting in the garage far too long. Current state, built "Franken" motor, running Teckinca tune. Car starts up fine and idles ok. Drove the car around the block and it died when I pulled in the driveway. pulled the plugs which were new and they were completely black not oil but could be wiped off easily. Plugs smelled of gas. Car will not start when hot. I have a CEL coming up for fuel injector cyl#1 and misfire cyl#1. Injectors are new and connections look good, so what could cause the codes? Also when the motor was built at the shop I had them install turbo cams which I later swapped out myself for the stockers. What should I be looking at? I have a wideband but too many things going on in the first drive to really take note of the numbers.

Help me figure this out please! link to build threadhttp://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1525886&highlight=323is+express

[cragg56]

Why did you pull out the cams? Why were the cams sooo aggressive? And what is up with your crank pulley? Is it still installed like that?

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb68/javiers2fast/062.jpg

[JimsR]

Swapped the cams because it was suggested. Since the turbo cams were so aggressive and their could be added complications with tuning, it was best to get the car running correctly with stock cams then go from there.

The crank pulley is installed as shown. The 99 year e36 had this style pulley stock.

[milKt]

Did you swap the turbo cams out AFTER the first drive? (thinking maybe they had something to do with the richness issue?
Does your AFR gauge READ rich on cold start ups?
Are you OBDII?

So the car runs and drives, but not after getting up to temperature?
What temperature? 180, 191?

[JimsR]

Cams were swapped before first drive also tune is for stock cams. OBDII setup.

Car runs and drives but not after its up to around 190 temp. Once it's warmed up car will stall and to get it going again it will need to sit and cool.

I will have to run it again to accurately record a/f numbers. Idle was in the 10-11 range

[cragg56]

Swapped the cams because it was suggested. Since the turbo cams were so aggressive and their could be added complications with tuning, it was best to get the car running correctly with stock cams then go from there.

The crank pulley is installed as shown. The 99 year e36 had this style pulley stock.

Hmm. I have a 99 m3 engine sitting in my garage and the crank pulley has teeth on it. What month/year? I have never seen one of those and I have parted out a few 99 m3's. Not that this is your issue, but I am generally curious. Reminds me of the e46 m3 balancer which is good up to higher RPMs than the e36 balancer.

About your issues. If everything runs fine when the engine is "cold" then there may be a sensor issue once you heat up and switch to closed loop. Have you pulled any codes or better yet have you asked Technica? Bret has been more than helpful to me and he may have some suggestions for you.

Also, when you swapped the cams, did you do it or did someone else? Were the appropriate timing tools used (eg. cam locks, flywheel lock, tensioner tool)?

[milKt]

An overheat would send the car into safe mode or shut it down,
but a simple 190 or so?
... extra rich from the cold start?

First, find and fix any boost leaks and/or vacuum issues possibly causing the richness.

Hopefully someone here will have dealt with a similar SET
(rich cold start up and shut down after up to temp)
of symptoms
and you'll be on your way again swiftly.

[JimsR]

Build date is Oct. 99'. From all the pics I have looked at on the forum I have never seen anyone with a pulley like mine, but its what it came with from the factory.

I have been in communication with Bret and will be having further conversations. I'm just trying to think of what problems their could be hardware wise.

I installed the cams myself and was my first time, I followed the Pelican diy and seemed straight forward. Used cam blocks but no flywheel pin since its not possible with my flywheel and also no tensioner but used my finger. Does this issue sound like incorrect timing?

Only codes right now are fuel injector cyl#1 and misfire cyl#1

[JimsR]

Fixed my boost leaks and cars much better but still cuts off and dies at times. Here's a horrible video only second time running the car. Do I need to run it more to let the computer adapt or look for further issues before running again? I don't know why my boost gauge never moved into the positive. Maybe I should get on a dyno for solid data?

Don't mind the rattling, its due to a loose bumper cover.

http://s206.photobucket.com/albums/bb68/javiers2fast/?action=view¤t=047-1.mp4 (http://s206.photobucket.com/albums/bb68/javiers2fast/?action=view&current=047-1.mp4)

[milKt]

Hopefully someone here will have dealt with a similar SET
(rich cold start up and shut down after up to temp)
of symptoms
and you'll be on your way again swiftly.

...and I guess not.:(




Yeah,
I didn't see any activity on your boost gauge. Hopefully the gauge is still under warranty. :)

So you're definitely having an IDLE issues.
And after the engine is up to temperature it begins to die worse than what we could see there?

What troubleshooting has your tuner suggested?
Did they suggest double checking your timing?
Are you running the 323i DME? or another unit?

Do OBDII tunes have long term adaptation symptoms like this?