Caliper bracket bolts stuck!

[Bavarianbrass]

So I was trying to replace my pads and rotors today and couldn't budge the caliper bracket bolts on either wheel. This prevented me from pulling off my disks.... The bolts are facing away from me to I tried going either way to see if I could get one to move but failed. Can anyone help me out? I definitely do NOT want to break in my new pads on my old rotors. Thanks!

[Rudolph320i]

turn the wheel so that the bolts are easier to access, then soak the bolts in PB Blaster and let sit for about 20 minutes. if they still dont budge then you need some heat.

[405style]

Also, use a breaker bar

[motoden]

Heat is the way to go

[Bavarianbrass]

Great will do!
Now the next question: are the bolts reverse threaded? Since the bolts are facing away from me, which way should my bar be going? Up or down to loosen?

[Rudolph320i]

they are right hand thread like most bolts, just imagine you are facing the bolt from the inside of the car and that should tell you which way to turn them.

[billyfiction]

Also, use a breaker bar

+1

Forget heat and forget muscle. Just turn the wheel so you get more room and use a breaker bar. In all my years of wrenching i have found that trying to muscle something off just leads to breaking it. A breaker bar will become your best friend.

I just use the 2ft handle from my 3 ton jack.

[Nomade30]

Muscling something is the same as using a breaker bar... PB lube is your friend, can solve most of life's problems.

[jmo69]

Use a six point socket if possible, when you do get it off re-install it with anti-seize. A good box end wrench and a dead blow hammer works too, can't remember if an impact wrench will fit back there.

[billyfiction]

Muscling something is the same as using a breaker bar... PB lube is your friend, can solve most of life's problems.

No it is not.

[Jake Kohut]

I agree. Appearently he never did anything extensive

Is rather use a torch or breaker instead of blowing a vein in my head

[dano670]

I have come across caliper bolts with loctite on them. Heat definitely helps there.

[sunbrn]

Muscling something is the same as using a breaker bar... PB lube is your friend, can solve most of life's problems.


No it is not.

Yes it is. The bolt doesn't know the difference.

[Krellboy]

I second "jmo69".....I always just use a box end wrench and wack it with a hammer until it loosens. Use the hammer again to tighten it up. The mechanics will torque it to 150 ft-lbs and most impact drivers just don't fit in there. Righty tighty...lefty loosey

[UnderCoverGuy11]

I never strike a wrench on a nut or bolt with a hammer, if I can't get it out with the ratchet, it's breaker bar time

[Bavarianbrass]

Thais guys for all the help I'll let you know how it turns out

[keeslinger31]

Ive used all kinds of methods. You can also intertwine the wrenches box end on the open end for more leverage if there is no hammer laying around and you have another wrench.

[Schramm]

Breaker bars aren't always the best solution. You could bring the bolt to its yield point and snap it pretty easy with a big enough bar. Propane torch does wonders. And smacking a wrench with a hammer is the same concept as an impact gun, and it works good (I love to use my big 4lb hammer)

[billyfiction]

Yes it is. The bolt doesn't know the difference.

No it is not. One is killing yourself ultimately applying uneven force leading to snapping the head off the bolt the other is using leverage and little effort and applying smooth even force.

[motion]

+1 on the breaker bar, again use a 6 point impact socket. If you use Loctite use the 242 Blue not the 271 Red. Always remove the guiding bolts and polish really good, I use silicone spray on these. never push the pistons back into the caliper and allow the old fluid to go back into the system, always open the bleeder and push the old fluid into a container. Throughly clean the caliper where the pads rest and move. Always clean the hub face and apply anti-seize before placing the rotor, use spacers and lug bolts to attach the rotor then use an indicator to check run out before reassembly. It should be mentioned that if you suspect warped rotors you should indicate before replacing the pads/calipers so as to identify the source of the heat. Pressure bleed the system and if standard then also bled that system. Just my .02

[Bavarianbrass]

Hey guys. I turned the wheel, used the jack handle, and the bolts came right off! I made one totally rookie mistake: I put one of my pads in backwards when I moved the piston back. I drove it a block for a test and heard the dreaded grinding noise! I came right back and switched the pad around. Is my rotor and pad totally screwed? Should I go a few months and see if it wears evenly? Or should I take them to a machine shop? I can't do anything until next week and I need the car to drive this weekend.

[keeslinger31]

Ugh really man, haha live and learn. I would say take a pic for sure otherwise i won't say anything

[Nomade30]

Just break in the pads on the rotor, watch that rotor for a while and make sure no cracks occur.

[billyfiction]

AS long as you dont see any groves in the pad or rotor I wouldn't worry about it. Just break them in again as stated.

[405style]

Muscling something is the same as using a breaker bar... PB lube is your friend, can solve most of life's problems.

No its not, laws of physics and leverage come into play.

[motoden]

Wouldn't muscling something and using a breaker bar be the same amount of force with the latter resulting in unbusted knuckles and an easier time?

Heat and leverage always help!

Double wrenching can work pretty well too when you don't have a breaker bar like someone else mentioned before

[Jake Kohut]

Untill you push or pull at a bad angle double wrenching. You ever pinch the palm of your hand I still use it quite often. I use pb let it soak, breakers bars, and heat. You ever muscle somethime I always get that lingering cramp in my shoulder . Another thing I do is get a socket wrench and put a pipe over the handle for more leverage

[billyfiction]

Wouldn't muscling something and using a breaker bar be the same amount of force with the latter resulting in unbusted knuckles and an easier time?

Heat and leverage always help!

Double wrenching can work pretty well too when you don't have a breaker bar like someone else mentioned before

It is how it is applied not what is applied. When you "muscle" a bolt off you are most of the time not applying even pressure to the bolt head, least in my experience, which then leads to busting the head off the bolt or rounding it and for me it is just a waste of energy. Using leverage you are more inclined to apply even smooth pressure to the bolt exerting little force. Using less force = being less stressed = better success rate of removing a stubborn bolt.

And if the bolt is truly seized you will bust it either way and it is a lot less painful to break a bolt using a breaker bar then busting it off cause you are muscling a way at it, least in my experience.

[Nomade30]

No its not, laws of physics and leverage come into play.

:lol That sentence made no sense, you just proved my point more. If you are muscling a bolt correctly you will do the same amount of force with a breaker bar. The problem arises when people get frustrated and forget about keeping the socket or wrench on the nut or bolt properly.

[jmo69]

I will never give up my torch aka smoke wrench:lol:alright

[BobieM]

Did a brake job on my 840 today (pad and rotor replacement) and can vouch for heating up stuck caliper bolts. MAP//Pro gas is my friend. They went back in with a good dose of anti-seize.