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View Full Version : Drivers side fender rubb



psmura
03-04-2012, 08:16 PM
Hey guys,

Recently installed a set of ground controls on my car. Running stock dsII's all around with a 235 tire. Believe my spring rates up front are 550. My problem is that when making left hand turns I sometimes rub the inside of the fender. This doesn't happen when making a right hand turn ever. I am as high as I can go right now. Wondering if this could be caused from a bad alignment or worn bushings on that side.

I plan on getting some different wheels in the near future so I don't really want to change out my springs if i don't have to. Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks

Tipsy
03-04-2012, 09:21 PM
is the liner broken so its sagging down?

psmura
03-04-2012, 09:23 PM
No I don't think so seems to be up there tight, just like the other side. Seems like the drivers side sags a bit lower then the passenger, by like a fingers width.

fiveightandten
03-05-2012, 12:10 AM
What are your ride heights?
Spacers?
Adjustable links on your sway bar?

Doriftu
03-05-2012, 12:25 AM
Would get the alignment checked. That should be done any time suspension components are changed anyhow.

psmura
03-05-2012, 11:46 AM
^
Yeah thats what I was thinking. Did some research and seems that alignment can be an issue. Cars been in storage so I was in no rush.

Running 10mm spacers wth my stockers. Don't know if I have adjustable sways thinking I don't.

YAOGinanM3
03-05-2012, 12:38 PM
is the liner broken so its sagging down?


No I don't think so seems to be up there tight, just like the other side. Seems like the drivers side sags a bit lower then the passenger, by like a fingers width.


There is no such thing as a sagging liner just missing the screws that hold the liner in place.

scooper
03-05-2012, 12:38 PM
if you're going to run 10mm spacers I have a pair of new VAC front hub extenders for sale.

YAOGinanM3
03-05-2012, 01:20 PM
Hey guys,

Recently installed a set of ground controls on my car. Running stock dsII's all around with a 235 tire. Believe my spring rates up front are 550. My problem is that when making left hand turns I sometimes rub the inside of the fender. This doesn't happen when making a right hand turn ever. I am as high as I can go right now. Wondering if this could be caused from a bad alignment or worn bushings on that side.

I plan on getting some different wheels in the near future so I don't really want to change out my springs if i don't have to. Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks


OP,

You are running staggered and rubbing? My M3 is sitting on T.C. Kline D/A coilovers with 400/500 springs running square 8.5" DS2s with 235/45x17 tires. I'm also running Turner Hub Extenders, 5mm H&R spacers and extended Turner wheel bolts for the front wheels to clear the lower springs seats. My M3's is on 100% all new suspension (subframe and anti-roll bar reinforcements welded in, OEM or better bushings and ball joints, complete OEM tie-rods, adjustable front end-links) after corner balancing and 4-wheel alignment was set at -2.5 camber in front with 0.0" total toe loaded and -1.5 camber at the rear with 1/16" total toe loaded. With the ride height measured from the top of the fender to the bottom of the wheel rim per Bentley BMW service manual my front ride height measures dead-on in front (22 and 1/16") and about 1/4" low at the rear (21 and 15/16") when compared to the Bentley M3 w/Sport package ride height specs. The car does not rub even during aggressive canyon driving and HPDE use. The car is a little bit low for the real world as I just miss hitting low parking burms and curbs with an empty car. The car looks even lower due to the extra 1" of tire height of the 45 series tire vs a stock 40 series tire but it rides very well and handles even better so I don't want to mess with the setup.

If my M3 is not rubbing your car should not be rubbing at all. I would suggest that you check anything that locates the wheel. This would include stock or aftermarket strut mounts with rubber or poly isolation, both the inner and outer tie rods, inner and outer ball joints and the front control arm bushings. If you replace any one item you should replace BOTH sides at the same time. Then get the whole she-bang 4-wheel aligned to Joe Nation Wide's alignment specs per the sticky. Also know that you do NOT have to dial up the dampers to rock hard to make it handle! Set your dampers as SOFT as possible, just past the point where the car moves around in a long highly loaded corner. Start at the rear and move forward.

Keep us posted and let us know what happens!