E34 LS1 Research Thread

[Jcbe34]

Ok, so I'm looking for all info available on e34 LSx swaps. There are a few floating around, two tourings most notably. I'm trying to figure out what options there are, basically what works and what doesn't. The basics are obvious- you need an LS1/transmission/ecu. You can find 5.3/6.0 truck motors for much cheaper but they are iron blocks as opposed to Camaro/Firebird/GTO/Corvette LS1/2/3etc that are all aluminum. There should be minimal weight gain installing one of these in an e34.

Here is the only real e34 thread I've found, but its not very comprehensive- http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=892636
This is the e30 ls1 build thread, really detailed but a lot different than the e34. Still lots of good info- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=94451

So far, from what I've read, the biggest issues are going to be the oil pan (camaro and corvette LS1's are rear sump), power steering and brake booster/hydroboost stuff. Everything else seems like it will be pretty straightforward.

For the oil pan, I think you can use a GTO oil pan which is front sump, and modify it like this-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v646/euronation/ls1project0562.jpg

One thing I'm wondering is if it is completely necessary to change to a steering rack. It would obviously be an upgrade but the swap would certainly be easier without the extra work. However, I'm wondering if you could even run the e34 steering box with the LS1 pump since e34 PS systems run at a much higher pressure. That brings me to my next question- brakes.

The e30 LS1 swap runs hydroboost from a '97 Mustang Cobra, which is up in front of the strut tower in the front to save space. My question is, would the booster even interfere on an e34? And if so, would it be possible to run a 530/540 booster instead?

Aside from these issues I think this would be a fairly easy swap, the wiring sounds simple and the LS1 is not a huge motor so fitting it in the e34 chassis should not be an issue. Anyways, I'm just trying to start this conversation, I have a lot more research to do but I am serious about doing this swap and I'll add info here as I get it.

[Avec]

Here is a thread from LS1tech.com. It is old enough that the owner deleted the pictures, but a lot of information.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/768900-invading-germany-lsx-into-bmw-e34-525-535-a.html

Search that forum. There are a number of BMW conversions, including E34.

[bubba966]

I've seen that E30 LS1 drive by me before. Sounded really nice. Saw it pull up to the light and I can tell it's not stock as I've never heard any BMW engine that sounded like that. Then I catch the license plate as he drove off and it made sense then. :lol3

But that guy & his dad put together a very detailed manual for swapping an LS1 into an E30 that they sell for $100 or $200 or so (can't recall exactly). It's a few hundred pages long with what they used, how, and dimensions on the custom parts. Sure, it'd be a little different in an E34 but I'd imagine it'd be worth it based on what little I've seen of the guide.

Just found this supercharged 502 in an E34. Doesn't seem to be any info, just the pics.

http://www.nash8503.com/Roys_520.html

[DarkSideofWill]

I think the biggest favor you can do yourself for this conversion is to START with a 530i or 540i. BMW already solved the packaging problems for a V8 E34 with these vehicles.

I haven't looked under the front of my 535 for a while, so I'd have to refresh myself on what might be in the way of a rear sump pan. I remember that the sway bar is back there, but that can be relocated with a little imagination.

In addition to the production pans, there are a LOT of aftermarket pan options for the LSx engines. A number of outfits build custom pans for reasonable prices.

The big question mark for me is the size of the transmission tunnel. In the E30, a Chevy engine has to sit what looks like 3" forward of where it should be because the bellhousing is too wide to fit all the way into the transmission tunnel. I'd be concerned about the E34 having a similar problem. Whether or not this is a problem should be easy to figure out... It may be in the threads linked above, which I haven't read yet.

I don't see why an individual enterprising enough to take on the swap couldn't build an adapter to bolt the BMW power steering pump into the GM PS pump bracket and keep the entire BMW PS system intact, including the ability to use a BMW hydroboost.

The LSx swap has been done on an E39 and the electronics figured out. It should be comparative cake on an E34. The engine management essentially stands alone and the potential problems are body functions that require databus input from the DME.

The LSx engines that have electronic throttle have the throttle control integrated into the ECM, so grafting that system into an E34 with EML (not sure if any or all 530's/540's had this) might be fun.



Just found this supercharged 502 in an E34. Doesn't seem to be any info, just the pics.

http://www.nash8503.com/Roys_520.html

That's not a 502... That's an aluminum block LS something or other.

[HE53]

I was fortunate enough to follow the thread on LS1 Tech, but didn't save any of the pics... I should have. I feel like he used an H3 5.3 oil pan and modified it, or a GTO pan. The steering system, and braking system are the biggest challenges. I am slowly putting a plan together to build one of these, but can't do it until I get my show space ready to work in. I was planning on going all BMW 540/530 braking, and steering systems, it just gives you so much more room, with complete OEM systems instead of trying to make a bunch of stuff work that isn't suppose too.

I have a friend in KC who owns a BMW shop who did a M60 swap into an E30 recently, and he used the 540 brake booster setup on the E30 and it worked great as well.

You should be able to find a 540 at a bone yard, or buy a wrecked one cheap enough just to pull those associated parts off of. I had a 530 touring that sat around my house all this past summer because I wanted to pull of those parts off, but I recently relocated and the car went to the scrapper. I'll either be just locating a V8 car to build, or locating another parts car when the time is right again.

Rao I think is his username, recently built, an e39 540 into an LSX car... He is usually very helpful and informative, I'm sure he could tell you what was in the way, and its got to be pretty much the same for the E34 except maybe the frame width, since the M60 didn't really change from E34 to E39.

[icecube58]

I have been doing an lsx swap into my euro e-34 and beleive me its no fun.. there's alot of fitment issues. Size wise the motor/trans dimensionally fits fine. but thats only part of it. In the rear is the engine compartment is where the trouble truelly begins. the crossmember where the rear wishbones ties together hits the starter even when a mini starter is used. I had to reengineer the steering geometry to correct it. depening on the oilpan you have thats the other major problem. Clearance for where the steering arm is in the way and realisticlly cannot be moved for safety reasons. A rear sump pan will work if you heavilly modify it to fit unless you are lucky enough to get your hands on a front sump pan.I had to custom make my pan from scratch and thats not a whole lot of fun. Next is the steering box. if the engine sits 1.25 " off center to the right then it clears, but barely. The power brake booster and abs unit is the other problem.. I'll see if i can find some of my pics to show what i did.

[CO535i]

The e30 LS1 swap runs hydroboost from a '97 Mustang Cobra, which is up in front of the strut tower in the front to save space. My question is, would the booster even interfere on an e34? And if so, would it be possible to run a 530/540 booster instead?




Why not run a BMW hydroboost setup from an older 5 or 7 series(e28 535i or the e23 735i, some early e32s had these as well). Saves space in the firewall area and will eliminate the need of mounting the 530/540 vacuum unit. The only piece you will need to find space for is the "brake bomb" and match the output pressure of the LS steering pump. Should be close to the same.

[BeLiQ]

Following this thread with interest!

[535ipower]

Following this thread with interest!


Your car the way it is with an ls1... :drool:

Op you can find the l33 truck motor which is in fact aluminium block and heads and it is a carbon copy of a ls1 without the price tag. Usually you can find a really low mileage one in the $1500 price range.

[BeLiQ]

Your car the way it is with an S62... :drool:


Fixed that for you ;)

[5mall5nail5]

Fixed that for you ;)

Nah man. Nah.

[MacR]

fixed that for you ;)

ls1 > s62

[cornflakecwl]

Following this thread with interest as well.... This is something that if there is already a WELL documented DIY I might seriously consider....

[DarkSideofWill]

I have been doing an lsx swap into my euro e-34 and beleive me its no fun.. there's alot of fitment issues. Size wise the motor/trans dimensionally fits fine. but thats only part of it. In the rear is the engine compartment is where the trouble truelly begins. the crossmember where the rear wishbones ties together hits the starter even when a mini starter is used. I had to reengineer the steering geometry to correct it. depening on the oilpan you have thats the other major problem. Clearance for where the steering arm is in the way and realisticlly cannot be moved for safety reasons. A rear sump pan will work if you heavilly modify it to fit unless you are lucky enough to get your hands on a front sump pan.I had to custom make my pan from scratch and thats not a whole lot of fun. Next is the steering box. if the engine sits 1.25 " off center to the right then it clears, but barely. The power brake booster and abs unit is the other problem.. I'll see if i can find some of my pics to show what i did.


How does the BMW V8 clear the steering gear in a 530i or 540i?

Would this pan work? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-20140/

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/mor-20140_w.jpg

It sounds like many of those problems (maybe not the starter...) could be solved by starting with a V8 car.

[eightynine535]

not a LS1 swap but this builder's thread showed what he did to solve the brakes issue. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1289653

[njg86]

Found this information awhile ago while researching LSx swaps into E34's. Copy and pasted all of this, I really cant remember where I sourced it from.


The basic rundown of the swap:
• 1998 LS1 from a wrecked Camaro
• 4L60E Automatic Transmission
• Late LS6 camshaft
• LS2 Valvesprings
• LS2 HD Timing Chain
• ARP Rod Bolts (standard upgrade for ’98 motors)
• Lakewood Muscle Car Motor Mounts
• Custom motor mount to block adapter plates
• Custom motor mount brackets
• Custom trans mounts
• Custom double 1” core all aluminum Northern muscle car radiator with built in trans cooler
• Northern/Spal dual fans and shroud
• Custom stainless/Samco radiator hoses
• Rack and Pinion steering conversion (VW rack, Earls fittings and line, PermaCool fluid cooler, custom U-Joints and column support)
• Flash tuned PCM
• 3.23 LSD diff
• Functional cruise control
Details:

• Exterior: The clearcoat has seen better days so the paint isn’t perfect but the sheet metal is all straight and dent free and it’s 100% rust free. It has Depo euro headlights and one high and one low is cracked. HIDs using Audi A6 ballasts and eBay capsules. It also has clear top tails although there are a couple cracks in the lower sections. I’m having a new windshield put in this week. The wheels are 17” Borbet Es all with some degree of clearcoat issues or curbing. Rear tires are less than 2 months old. Fronts are about 50%. I also have the stock 15” bottle caps with flaking chrome and decent tires that I can include if you want to put snows on them.


• Interior: The front door cards were junk when I got it as it very common in these cars. I’ve installed wood trimmed front door cards but haven’t looked for rear cards to match. The headliner was junk when I got the car so I redid it. I let my 2yo pick out the material so it’s a pretty cool butterfly print. If you don’t like it it only takes a couple hours with some material, a razor and some spray glue to redo it. The stereo a Kenwood deck with an integrated ipod adapter.


• Swap: I take pride in my work. The swap is among the cleanest you’ll find. All the wiring is as stock. There is a fuse block and a set of relays in the box at the passenger rear of the engine compartment and everything that isn’t factory to either the motor or the car is hidden. The only error I ever see on the OBC is the LBF indicator for the HIDs which is an easy fix that I haven’t had time to do. The fans are controlled by the PCM through the factory relays, the wiring runs into the car through the factory plug, nothing half assed, all soldered and shrink wrapped connections. I built this car for my wife to drive and she has, without issue. I’ve opened the hood at shows and had people pass it over because they didn’t realize the engine wasn’t supposed to be there. It really needs a set of Corvette fuel rail covers to stand out.


• The motor mount brackets are made of A513 DOM tube, TIG welded, sandblasted then powder coated black. They were designed to be as structurally sound as possible and have been described as “tank parts”.


• The radiator is a modified double core all aluminum Northern unit. The fans are twin Spals mounted in a Northern louvered aluminum shroud. The radiator hoses are sanitary stainless (top) and aluminum (bottom) with black Samco connectors I had to have specially imported. All the hard tubes have been properly bead rolled and are assembled with new stainless clamps.


• The brake booster has been replaced with a smaller unit and the master cylinder has been replaced with an Audi unit with a slightly smaller bore to maintain pedal feel. The ABS system has been removed. The front and rear brakes have been replaced in the last eight months. New Brembo rotors, PBR pads all around and rebuilt calipers up front.


• The exhaust uses standard cast iron exhaust manifolds for reliability. ’02 Camaro passenger side and ’04 GTO drivers side. From there it runs through dual 2.5” downpipes, into a pair of Magnaflow 2.5” stainless cats, through an 18° merge and then it’s a single 3” back to a large Flowmaster muffler with a 3.5” single tip. All of the tubing is mandrel bend 304 sanitary stainless and TIG welded.


• The drivetrain uses a C3 Corvette front yoke, ’84 T-Bird driveshaft and JTR custom rear yoke. The U-Joints are heavy duty greasable units. The diff is a 3.23 LSD I had to build custom. 3.23 is the factory performance ratio for a Camaro.