e36 Door Lock Cylinder and Ignition Wafers the Same?

[tharepairguy]

Just got my replacement handle in that came with 2 new keys. I only got 1 key with the car, so I was thinking it might be cheaper to just re-key the ignition, trunk and passenger handle if I could find some wafers.

Do "We e36er's" have a wafer pool active? lol

Any1 with spare cylinders/wafers laying around?

I only need a couple per cylinder...

I would also be willing to run the wafer pool if people wanted to donate some to get this started.

Basically it would work like this:

Step 1. You send me good wafers needing to be swapped out with an postage paid envelope.
Step 2. Once I receive said items, I would swap the wafers at no charge.
Step 3. Enjoy not getting raped by the stealership.

If you don't want to include an envelope with postage, send a buck to cover cost's for US shipments. I could see this turning out to be a good thing as our e36's age...

[freddybeemer100]

You ever play with the wafers before?

[flyfishvt]

You can't rekey the trunk lock. Its a sealed unit. I'm not sure about the ignition tumbler.

[tharepairguy]

You ever play with the wafers before?

If this was a serious reply, then yes. Was going to just remove the ignition and check it out but turns out I have the good ol EWS in my 95. So I went ahead and just ordered a new key from the dealer. I called quite a few dealers since there are none around me, amazing how the price varied from 50-88.

But I do have a few wafers on hand now if they are needed. :redspot

[flyfishvt]

That's not a bad question to ask as you should know. You have to be very careful and patient when you swap wafers.

If you ever need more wafers I bought a door lock repair kit from the dealer. Came with a new door lock tumbler an about 40 assorted wafers. $50. Much cheaper than a new handle keyed to your vin.

[blueapplesoda]

I am reviving this 4 year old thread. I was searching high and low for an answer, and didn't find one on the web in my hour search, so I just took the $32 plunge, and got an answer. I bought pn 51169061388 which is a glove box lock repair kit. https://www.ecstuning.com/ES87829/, worldpac also has it. From the looks of things, the doors should have the same shaped wafers (51218135960, https://www.ecstuning.com/ES90236/), so it should work for the doors too.

And the verdict....the wafers are the same between the glove box and the trunk. The cylinders are different of course, but I already have everything, I just needed the wafers for the trunk.

My e36 has different keys for all the doors, ignition...glove...trunk..I had like 4 keys for this car, and the trunk was stuck shut cause it didn't have a key.

The trunk lock can be disassembled and the wafers replaced, it is not a sealed unit. I was able to re-key the trunk lock to my ignition key, along with the glove box. The trunk doesn't need to have a key to take it apart. After taking it off the trunk door, the hardest part was sliding the chrome tube off the actual lock cylinder. It does, however, slide straight off, albeit with resistance from the retaining crimps.

As for the actual wafers, I used a technique I read on a random post from an e34 forum, to figure out what wafers worked. Starting at the highest number (14 or 24) and slowly work your way down until the cylinder has all the correct wafers.

Now to figure out how to remove the door handles on this car.

- - - Updated - - -

Just confirmed the door locks have the same wafers as the trunk and glove.

[wrbrim]

Bumping this thread again. I have a boot/trunk with a lock that does not match any other part of my car (glove box, 2 doors and ignition).

Hence I am proceeding to re-code my boot/tunk key cylinder on my 1995 318i sedan with a junk-yard test/replacement lock (to which I don't have the key). I have got the thing apart and done a practice re-assemble - while nearly matching the first 4 wafers by trial and error to my actual key - so it looks like it is doable by me!! All I need to do now is either get some more wafers or file them down (and/or leave some out). What I was wondering - the codes on the wafers start with either a "1" or a "2" - indicating which coded "side" of the key it is "reading". I did not take note (and I know I should have) of the order the wafers came out. Mostly curiously - as I will be working with what I have - I am guessing that each dual slot should in a perfect world have one "1" prefix, and one "2" prefix wafer in it with the "1's" being closer to the key entry end - that way equal pressure is being put on both sides of the key. Can anyone confirm and correct.