E30 Control Arm Replacement

[Quazar911]

I'm in the process of replacing the control arms on 2 of my E30's ('89 325iS and '89 318iS). Right now the 325iS has been sitting on jack stands in the garage for the past 3 days due 22mm ball joint nuts (above the subframe) that I can't effectively remove. Everything else has been disconnected/removed and ready for replacement except for the 22mm's that are holding up progress (and the arms).

*According to the Chilton manual, I needed a 22mm deep well socket: went and bought it but didn't work-not enough clearance.

*Attempted to use a 22mm "standard" socket: fit but not enough clearance for attached ratchet.

* I went and bought a 22mm wrench: would lock on nut but no room to turn due to size of wrench and other components (headers, sway bars, etc) in the way.

*Did some research online: others have removed headers, sway bars and some even lifted motor to access.

Without the unnecessary removal of other engine/suspension components, how can I remove these 22mm's?

[Pennyw1se]

I used a regular 22mm wrench. It wasn't easy and I had to fight it off after letting it soak with plenty of pb blaster. The better way to do it is to either buy a stubby 22mm wrench or get a cheap 22mm and cut it to a similar length.

[mlytle]

22mm flex head gearwrench is the answer.

[Economy]

Keep soaking it with penetrant and use a normal wrench from underneath the car, it's pretty hard to get it from the top unless you have a four cylinder... you will have to turn it a tiny bit at a time when you break it loose but it doesn't take THAT long

[moberg12]

You can get to it from the top through the engine bay, You need long extensions and a universal but it can be done. If that doesn't work for some reason just remove the passenger side motor mount. You shouldn't have any issue getting to the one on the drivers side.

[Pennyw1se]

^ Yeah. The tough one is the passenger side. I couldn't find anything to push my feet against so every time I tried loosening the nut I'd end up sliding on the floor a bit. lol

[draccent]

I just used a gear wrench, but I had the sway bar out at the time, which is very easy to remove.

Use a hammer to lightly tap the side of the wrench and eventually you'll feel the nut budge. Its going to take a while but it will come off eventually.

[Jacksone30]

On the pass side take the bolt off the motor mount -then put a jack under the motor( with wood block to protect oil pan) and lift the motor about 2 inches to get the socket on the bolt.
Long extension from the top will get it out.
You may need another jack under the ball joint to keep it from spinning.
Worked like a charm on my 325ic. :)

Oops --moberg already posted - and it's pronunciation is "do mass"

[Wojtek79]

search ebay for a swivel socket if going from the top. I know it's doable on one side to go from the top. I think the motor mount shield is in the way on the other.

[Aleman]

It seems these 22mm subframe nuts cause lots of garage cussing.

Passenger Side Control Arm removal question:
Got the passenger side nut half way off with a 2-foot extension and U-joint on the end of a breaker bar. When I got to the half-way point, the CA dropped, so the nut was now flush with the top of the subframe. Further attempts to loosen the nut only made the stud spin in place. I ended up getting frustrated with it and destroyed the rubber around the ball joint underneath, so I could clamp a vise grip pliers to the stud part to hold it still. This was after I tried to get it to not rotate by placing a jack under it. Should the jack method have worked? I've got this CA out now, so this side is not holding up my project.

Driver Side Question:
I've got the 22mm nut off at the subframe, but the CA won't drop out. The rear control arm bushing brackets bolts are out already. The Bentley manual says 'Using a soft-faced hammer, lightly tap the ball joint to free it.' Well, I pounded on it with a sledge hammer, and it ain't coming out of there. What gives? Any ideas?
Thanks!

[thejlevie]

As you found out on the driver's side, the ball joint shaft should stick in the subframe. A jack under the joint will usually suffice if the fasteners aren't corroded. In which case PBlaster or Kroil for a day or two will help.

To get the driver's side out, soak the shaft in PBlaster or Kroil for a day or two. Then have a helper hold a long drift and hit that with a good sized sledge. A heavy duty air hammer is another good way.

[Go3Go]

Driver Side Question:
I've got the 22mm nut off at the subframe, but the CA won't drop out. The rear control arm bushing brackets bolts are out already. The Bentley manual says 'Using a soft-faced hammer, lightly tap the ball joint to free it.' Well, I pounded on it with a sledge hammer, and it ain't coming out of there. What gives? Any ideas?
Thanks!

I had to pound the crap out of it to get mine to pop out. It didn't give any sign of coming out until it finally dropped through.
^air hammer would have been extremely nice in that situation though haha

[Alpine 7even]

I'm having the same issue and the end result was a hell of a lot of cussin a broken wood broom handle and the old control still on the car. 5 mins with the tool that designed that little gem would be so nice! Might be buying a wrench and cutting it as said already!

[bwmguy]

Replaced these in my e30 a month or so ago. The 22mm was by far the worst nut to remove. I ended up buying a small crescent wrench and had to literally put all my weight into getting that bolt off. I weight 215lbs. Good luck.

Sent from my DROIDX using BF.com

[Pancho22]

I just had to do this too! That 22 is a PITA, for the driver side I used a regular 22mm wrench, just find something to support your feet. For the passenger side it didnt go quite well. I removed the exhaust manifold (have to replace my gasket either way) because I could not get it to budge! Tried a ratchet with an extension and had no luck, I had to use an air impact wrench to get it off. Also poured a ton of wd-40 and liquid wrench. Good luck with it.

[Alpine 7even]

hey guys so i just thought id share this magical tool that i bought for e46 02 sensors that actually works better for this specific nut. i got it out in 15 minutes!!!!! not moving the sway bar, removing the motor mounts or lifting the engine. just take the wheel off aftering jacking the car up. i bought it on ebay a while ago for 30 bucks.

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/3536/dscn1173c.jpg
http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/451/dscn1172s.jpg
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/6879/dscn1171x.jpg
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/1941/dscn1170qy.jpg
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/7222/dscn1169u.jpg
fits snuggly around the bolt
http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/817/dscn1177rz.jpg

[celticfutballer]

I got fed up with wrenches and used a grinder :redspot

[Brianl289]

I did mine today. A standard 22 fit fine. You can only turn it a little bit at a time but it works

[afredo]

Can't get the 22mm nuts off either side. Ended up dropping the subframe down as far as I could but the bolts holding it to the steering rack wont come out so I'm nervous of bending or breaking some line or steering component. I've hit both nuts with a ton of pb blaster and used an impact gun with a long extension and a u-joint and neither nut even budges one iota. Help!

[vetri911]

For anyone curious this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/O2-Sensor-Flex-Head-Wrench-NEW-7-8-22mm-6-point-/300375327269?pt=US_Hand_Tools&hash=item45efc3c225) is the ebay listing. It's called a flex head wrench. I'm going to try it out. Hope this works.

[Ftbagkicker]

For anyone curious this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/O2-Sensor-Flex-Head-Wrench-NEW-7-8-22mm-6-point-/300375327269?pt=US_Hand_Tools&hash=item45efc3c225) is the ebay listing. It's called a flex head wrench. I'm going to try it out. Hope this works.

So did you buy it and did it work? Details please.

[Overlord475]

The magical 7/8" (22mm) wrench can been rented from Autozone:

http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobile/en/accessories/OEM-Oxygen-sensor-wrench/_/N-264b?id=948079

[montrey]

Hmm i did the swap on my touring with a normal spanner. It was very easy, is that because i have a m50 in?

[richardodn]

Hmm i did the swap on my touring with a normal spanner. It was very easy, is that because i have a m50 in?

Probably. This is also one of the few jobs that is actually easier on the iX.

[dohcdoh]

Probably. This is also one of the few jobs that is actually easier on the iX.

I don't believe you. Everything is a little more difficult on the ix.

[Mushroom Stew]

I have to do the control arms on my e30 soon as well. Just wondering what people's opinions are of the Meyle HD (heavy duty) CA's vs Meyle CA's?

[dohcdoh]

I have to do the control arms on my e30 soon as well. Just wondering what people's opinions are of the Meyle HD (heavy duty) CA's vs Meyle CA's?

Get lemforder.

[andalau]

I'm in the process of taking out the ball joints and control arms on an ix. Is it necessary to compress the springs?

[dohcdoh]

I'm in the process of taking out the ball joints and control arms on an ix. Is it necessary to compress the springs?

No it shouldn't be.

[15Michaeljoseph]

No it shouldn't be.

+1, the whole strut-dampener-spring-hat-mount assembly comes out as one piece, no need to compress the spring.

[andalau]

No it shouldn't be.


+1, the whole strut-dampener-spring-hat-mount assembly comes out as one piece, no need to compress the spring.

Thanks, I was able to do it and take it off.

Now on the opposite side CA's outer ball joint nut seems to be seized to the housing. I've been trying to bang on it with a hammer and spray WD-40. Any other techniques that others have found useful?

[dohcdoh]

Thanks, I was able to do it and take it off. Now on the opposite side CA's outer ball joint nut seems to be seized to the housing. I've been trying to bang on it with a hammer and spray WD-40. Any other techniques that others have found useful?

What? Is your issue that the nut won't break loose? Or is the whole ball joint spinning? If it's spinning, put a jack under the ball joint to apply some pressure to keep it from spinning. Then if it's too tight, use a cheater. If you have it I use an impact gun, makes removal a snap.

[VARick]

Guys: My old beauty needs this job; new control arms and at least the dampeners replaced. It sounds daunting for a minimalist gearhead such as myself. Is that why it costs so damn much for a real techie to do the work? Labor alone can be around 1 large!

[dohcdoh]

Guys: My old beauty needs this job; new control arms and at least the dampeners replaced. It sounds daunting for a minimalist gearhead such as myself. Is that why it costs so damn much for a real techie to do the work? Labor alone can be around 1 large!

Lol how much rust/pita while you're in there stuff will there be?

[estoguy]

Guys: My old beauty needs this job; new control arms and at least the dampeners replaced. It sounds daunting for a minimalist gearhead such as myself. Is that why it costs so damn much for a real techie to do the work? Labor alone can be around 1 large!

Hey buddy... I just did this job on my car. If you're replacing the arms with new ones, get those nuts off (the inner ones, especially the passenger side, are a pain), and just use a pickle fork and big hammer.

I did mine off jack stands, but it took awhile.

I went with the centered M3 rubber bushings. That was actually the easiest part of the whole job. I used window cleaner as lube and a rubber mallet. Took no time at all. My only problem was living up the drivers side lollipop after, but I got it.

[Ceekers]

well gents...I just did mine for the 3rd time; the passenger side "sometimes" allows for space because of the heat shield being slightly out of the way. In my case this time; I couldn't get the 22mm socket to fit even with a wobbly on it. So I took my long ass pry bar (only because my bottom mount not was just spinning and didn't feel like dealing with replacing a motor mount) and pry'd the shield away enough to get my socket on. I used the subframe to support the bar as I pushed back on the shield. hammered down on my extension to make sure it was snug and hit it with the air gun. off it came. If the inner control arm is stuck and you don't have an air hammer then you can take a 1/2 inch long extension and flip it over and give it a few wacks. it should drop. If not, get heat on it and repeat.

note: nothing works like on the show shady tree mechanics... lol

[blickcd]

Man, this thread is giving me a bad flashback from years ago. I know the cursed nut you can't remove on the passenger side.

I tried to used a 22mm socket with a swivel and long extension but there wasn't enough clearance for the swivel because of the exhaust manifold turning down above it and to one side.

The secret weapon turned out to be a 22mm open end crow foot wrench and long extension with a breaker bar and pipe extension on the handle. Even with that I needed to heat the nut a little bit with a butane torch first to break it loose. There had of course been PB blaster soaking on that sucker for days prior to this.

[E30UberAlles]

Just did this on my 325i.

The driver's side came out with a standard 22mm wrench. I had to wash it in WD40, let it sit for 10 min and broke it loose. I then loosened it a quarter inch at a time with the wrench. Took me about 20 min to have it come out. Luckily, the ball joint did not spin on me. :D I did all this from underneath.

The passenger's side, I went from the top of the engine bay with a 22mm deep socket and an extension bar hooked to an impact gun. Got it off in 5 min.

[chamilun]

just did this yesterday. drivers side, you can use just a 22mm wrench.
passenger side, you need to unscrew bottom motor mount. jack up engine. then you have plenty of space to get that 22mm nut off.
the ball joint attached to the hub, you definitely need the standard scissors style removal piece. its a pita. and to get the middle (22mm) spindle to drop, you need to take a piece of long steel, i used L shaped whatever.
and hammer til it drops.

Its pretty easy once you figure it out. my 89 325ic drives a million times better

strangely, I had a rubbing issue of some form from both sides after doing one last week and one yesterday. Im not sure what is rubbing, maybe the brake is seizing somehow. very odd.
but IM replacing both calipers just to be safe in a car this old

[estoguy]

Maybe it's because I get my car sprayed by Krown (company here in Canada that does rust protecting sprays), but I had no problem with seizing. My biggest issue was the clearance and not having a ratcheting box wrench. Once unbolted, the arms came down pretty easy. I didn't even pre-spray them.

[Kershaw]

With an ix, you can hit both inner control arm nuts from the top with an impact and extensions. Makes it easy. One thing I've learned is to always chase the threads before you remove the nuts. The inners have looong threads and the nut can get stuck halfway. It takes a few minutes to chase them and it can save you hours of time if the nut gets stuck.

[Wrench Turner]

Good thread. Something interesting I haven't heard mentioned is that the replacement lemfoerder control arm has a 21mm nut instead of a 22. So make sure you have a 21 if you want to be able to put it back on!