View Full Version : replace rear bearing or whole wheel hub.
jmejia15
10-22-2011, 07:01 PM
Ok so ive heard that replacing a real wheel bearing is a huge PITA, so i was wondering if it would make sense to just replace the whole rear wheel hub with a used one with low miles? I've never swapped a rear bearing on these cars but everyone i talk to makes me feel a bit hesitant.
MasterKwan
10-22-2011, 08:25 PM
I always replace both but, I'm anal that way. There's no reduction in work though. Getting the bearing out damages the old bearing so, you have to replace the bearing no matter what. The Hub though, it depends on how long the bearing has been bad. If the hub has scoring or has turned blue from overheating, I'd replace it.
Others don't agree with me on hub replacement.
fun2drive
10-22-2011, 09:38 PM
There is nothing wrong keeping the hub and installing a new bearing. However unless you are jackpot lucky usually the inner race stays attached to the hub requiring you to either dremel a few cuts in the old race and popping it off or heating just the race and getting it off that way. One other way I have seen and actually never thought of was using a bearing separator and removing it that way.
I have used heat and dremel which success. Dremel is much easier to use for a novice than heat because you generally also heat the hub.
fsmtnbiker
10-22-2011, 10:21 PM
If you have all the proper tools, the rear wheel bearings are a trivial job.
No reason to replace the hub unless it's necessary for other reasons (damage from very bad bearing, stripped lug hole, excessive corrosion.)
RRSperry
10-23-2011, 06:47 AM
If you have all the proper tools, the rear wheel bearings are a trivial job.
No reason to replace the hub unless it's necessary for other reasons (damage from very bad bearing, stripped lug hole, excessive corrosion.)
Trivial? That's a bit optimistic... Just how many people have a B90 set and a torque wrench accurate to about 300 ft-lbs?
fun2drive
10-23-2011, 10:22 AM
I have those tools and it is by far the tuffest job I have done on E30-36 cars. It is so trival that I broke a previous bearing removal tool and have a nice bend in my B90.
When the bearing breaks loose it sounds like a shotgun going off. Also using a slap hammwe to pull the hub off after 1/2 shaft removal allows you to leave the parking brake and backing plate in tact. I saw a DIY posted here where someone used PVC pipe to get the bearing out. If the force required bent a 1" square piece of steel how do you think PVC would do?
Better be prepared to exert considerable force to remove the bearing.
ScotcH
10-23-2011, 01:41 PM
Easiest way to do it: Unbolt the entire trailing arm and bring it to a shop with a press (or if you have a press). It's WAY easier to do it this way :)
No need to change the hub if it is good. Might as well check your CVs though since they will already be unbolted.
jmejia15
10-24-2011, 10:55 AM
So I guess my two options now are:
A) buy bearing and bring it into a shop to perform labor
B) Buy a used trailing arm with hub and bearing in good condition and just swap it out
Which would you guys recommend? Clearly, a new bearing > used, but is it worth it?
99MPower
10-24-2011, 11:12 AM
Simply.... yes
Get new bearings (both sides) and the 4 ball joints
E36forever
10-24-2011, 04:52 PM
I always replace both but, I'm anal that way. There's no reduction in work though. Getting the bearing out damages the old bearing so, you have to replace the bearing no matter what. The Hub though, it depends on how long the bearing has been bad. If the hub has scoring or has turned blue from overheating, I'd replace it.
Others don't agree with me on hub replacement.
Not a bad idea to replace both, and go with wheel studs right off the bat to preserve the new hubs.
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