OEM engine mounts w/ RE trans mounts & not happy

[FreeFlow]

Hi there,

So I've done a fair amount of modification to my car to get it at or close to 250whp.... I recently replaced my sagging engine mounts that had over 100k on them w/ new OEM e36/e46 M3 engine mounts along w/ Rogue Engineering transmission mounts :) and I thought that I would be extremely satisfied with the restored response and precision but I can't say that I am... :(

Now I went this route because lots of people claim that OEM engine mounts are more than enough for street and even track use... and I figured even with the added power in my car I would be more than pleased with stock. I went with the rogue because they claim to be OE feel w/ added precision... :confused

Problem is.......... Although I feel a tad bit more engine response over the old heavily sagging engine mounts, I can still feel the engine move a little before power gets down... And I still get a heavy thud sometimes from the engine compartment while pressing in the clutch during aggresive driving (NOT THE DIFF THUD IN THE REAR).... Its a thud you hear when what seems as if the engine is being torqued in one direction under load and snapping back into place when that load is removed causing this annoying thud = to much engine movement for my satisfaction darn it! :mad

I'm really dissapointed in these stock mounts... I torqued them down to spec.. along with the transmission mounts... I checked the engine mount brackets recently for cracks, missing or broken bolts but everything looks great in there.

What gives!? Is there something I'm missing here? Or something else that can be wrong? Or shoud I simply go with the Vorschlag mounts to get the response I'm looking for?

EXPERTS, Please CHIME on in!!! Thanks for the help!

[NoLastName]

I wouldn't go blaming transmission mounts just yet. To me, a thud from the engine compartment on clutch disengagement strongly suggests something is broken. Even with OEM mounts there should be almost zero movement. Certainly not enough for things to physically hit each other causing a noticeable thud. When I had a thud it was because an engine mount tore out of the front subframe in an autocross and the engine started genuinely moving around under the hood (not cool!). You mentioned you checked for cracks already but I'd recommend checking everything again. Mounting points, mount arms, the mounts themselves, etc. All physical attachment points and structures.

BTW since fixing my front subframe I've been using OEM engine & transmission mounts for track & autocross with no issues and no unusual sounds.

Any other clutch symptoms? Shuddering, etc.?

[FreeFlow]

BTW since fixing my front subframe I've been using OEM engine & transmission mounts for track & autocross with no issues and no unusual sounds.

Any other clutch symptoms? Shuddering, etc.?

Nope, all other components seem to be in excellent shape i.e. clutch/flywheel almost brand new M5 w/ UUC 8lb flywheel, all mounts and suspension components are new, etc etc...

I'm actually wondering and getting scared that it just might be my front subframe having tear type issues. Is this that common? Is it an easy fix? - asking you since you've experience this first hand.

[NoLastName]

Not common for the mounts to tear completely away like they did with my car. Having said that, there are others here who experienced the same catastrophic failure that I did. Turner, Bimmerworld and AKG offer weld-in reinforcement kits. In other words it's a known weak point of the E36 chassis. There are solutions available to address the issue. After tearing my original and then finding small cracks starting in the scrap yard replacement I bought, I'd be willing to bet there are plenty of E36s out there with at least some cracking. Especially since these cars are well over a decade old now and tend to see hard use. My thread on this issue (with photos) is here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1284517

As far as replacement goes, it's not what I'd call difficult. You do need something to support the engine while you do the work. You also need to separate the front lower control arm ball joints and disconnect the steering rack from the crossmember.

Not saying a broken subframe is your issue for sure, but you should inspect closely for that. I asked about clutch shudder because that was one of my symptoms (especially in reverse). The other symptom was a clicking sound on slow bumps & turns, caused by the edges of the crack flexing and rubbing against each other. Finally it deteriorated into a huge *WHUMP* at an autocross event. That was the audible signal that my engine was no longer fully attached... haha.