E34 LKM mod for HID/LED. Fix Bulb Failure Warning

[toyotahachiroku]

I recently bought some cheapo hid and the Low Beam Failure warning light came up every time I turned the lights on. I've tried using a resistor. The same kind sold over ebay. Did not always eliminate the Low Beam warning. Considered a failure. Thanks Shogun for pointing out a Japanese site with a lot of BMW DIY. I don't know much Japanese so I half guess and half google translated it. Although the Japanese and Euro LKM are slightly different. The same theory applies. I don't guarantee everything is 100% correct. Use at your own risk. Here are my results.

The are two 16 pin chips on the board. Basically Pin 8 is ground. Grounding any of the other pins to 8 will eliminate the warning. Perfect if you want to run HID or LED all around and don't want to use the ridiculously hot heat sink resistors just to eliminate the warning. This mod won't fix hyper flashing problems though.


http://i55.tinypic.com/212df1j.jpg
The LKM on my car is numbered 61-35-8-350-377.


http://i53.tinypic.com/e04duq.jpg
This is an after picture. I installed HID low beam and HID fog lights so I soldered a connection between pin 1 and 8 on chip A for Fog Light and pin 1 and 8 on Chip B for Low Beam.


http://i53.tinypic.com/oi69o7.jpg
Picture from the other side


http://i55.tinypic.com/2zgvhwk.jpg
Zoomed out.

After installing the LKM back in the car, I tested to see if the warnings would come back on. I ran halogen bulbs on one side and no bulbs on the other. No warnings. Then I ran just HID on one side of the car and no bulbs on the other side. No warning. Disconnected all the low beam and fog bulbs. No warning. All other lights work properly.

ps. good time to check for loose components and re-solder if necessary.

[jgdynamics]

with hid fogs i never got an error message and that was with my 91 525i, i never tried hid fogs on my 95 540i. do you know if they are the same? i have led license plate lights, so i might do this for the license plate and the low beams. good info. thanks!

[jgdynamics]

with hid fogs i never got an error message and that was with my 91 525i, i never tried hid fogs on my 95 540i. do you know if they are the same? i have led license plate lights, so i might do this for the license plate and the low beams. good info. thanks!

[5senses]

Great info and pics!..

Wes

[uk525td]

good stuff, was planning something similar when i eventually go HID!!!! glad somone else did the ground work :D

[Bwaterman]

Very nice work!

I hate using load resistors because the main benefit of LED's are low power use which goes out the window when you use the resistors.

How do you work out which pin is for which error? I have a euro car so mine could be different.

[AHenry014]

this is great. i need to be rid of my parking light error (smileys). the last time i did this however, for my HID fogs....i used a resistor in line for simulation. just followed another thread.

[AHenry014]

this is great. i need to be rid of my parking light error (smileys). the last time i did this however, for my HID fogs....i used a resistor in line for simulation. just followed another thread.

[Steve547i]

So happy you did this.

[dme88]

You could actually just replace the shut resistor with a bigger one and the light warning will work for HID lights too. Those >1.0W resistors are not cheap tho.

[RVAE34]

Awesome!!! Thanks for the great writeup!

[5mall5nail5]

Another bump for excitement. This should be thrown in the DIY etc section. I am going to do this tomorrow. I was just looking for DDM-style error cancel thingers, and wanted to figure this out so long ago, but never did. This is great.

[84318i]

Awesome, I'll do this as well.

[Bwaterman]

does anyone know how to identify which pins monitor which lights?

[DUDMD]

does anyone know how to identify which pins monitor which lights?
I don't see why it could be different on the chip contacts. I guess you could trace it from the wiring harness plug with a multimeter to verify.
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/425247


Those of you that don't want to solder the LKM can do similar to what is done up above, just with the wiring inputs to the LKM/CCM. I would highly reccomend against it, simply because another used LKM can be had for cheap if you burn it to hell, not the same can be said about wiring after you hack it up.

[camaroguy]

Its interesting that the warning came on when you turned the lights ON. There should still be some resistence across the ballast which prevents that from happening. There is in my cheap kit anyway.

The problem I had was the failure warning when I shut the lights off. There is infinite resisntance then because the balast isnt doing anything. I just soldered the resistor inside the lkm so its all clean looking. Just enough for it to think a bulb was there but not turned on.

Just to clerify, you have completely eliminated the warning by doing this? It will not tell you if the bulbs actually burn out now?

I was not sure if it would tell me or not being as there is a balast between the lkm and the bulb. I unplugged one bulb and it still told me that the bulb was bad.

[5mall5nail5]

Its interesting that the warning came on when you turned the lights ON. There should still be some resistence across the ballast which prevents that from happening. There is in my cheap kit anyway.

The problem I had was the failure warning when I shut the lights off. There is infinite resisntance then because the balast isnt doing anything. I just soldered the resistor inside the lkm so its all clean looking. Just enough for it to think a bulb was there but not turned on.

Just to clerify, you have completely eliminated the warning by doing this? It will not tell you if the bulbs actually burn out now?

I was not sure if it would tell me or not being as there is a balast between the lkm and the bulb. I unplugged one bulb and it still told me that the bulb was bad.

If you solder a resistor in the LKM like pictured above all you are doing is shorting to ground with a slightly higher ground reference. I'd recommend removing the resistor and directly shorting the pin to ground so that you don't involve any ground shift or floating ground issues.

[camaroguy]

Thanks John, I will clerify. I did not solder the resistor in the spot where he soldered those wires. I soldered it across the output pins to the headlamps. Its basically the same as having the halogen bulb plugged into the harness as well as the HID's. Yes I am burning an extra watt while my lights are on, but its not a big deal since my hid's are only 35w anyway, and the original halogens are 55w.

I was just trying to clerify that what he was doing is actually bypassing the signal all together. I still get the bulb out message if one of my hid's dies...It will only happen when they are on, unlike the factory halogen setup which happens when they are off as well.

[5mall5nail5]

Yeah I don't prefer that method because you have a clunky resistor floating around under the hood which is 1) hard to hide and 2) can fail over time due to sinking heat. I think the LKM solution is best. You can really notice when one headlight goes out so I don't think a message is really necessary.

[camaroguy]

Its pretty easy to hide when its inside the LKM ;) I also don't agree that its "easy" to know a headlight is out when you drive around a lot of lighted streets...especially with HID's.

[5mall5nail5]

Its pretty easy to hide when its inside the LKM ;) I also don't agree that its "easy" to know a headlight is out when you drive around a lot of lighted streets...especially with HID's.

Usually you need to use large-ish resistors. You fit a 1W resistor in the LKM?

[camaroguy]

They may not be 1 watt resistors, I don't exactly remember. They are largish, I know they have been working flawlessly for 4 years and about 25k miles though :)

[shogun]

LKM-L and LKM-B pin -out

1 High Beam stalk at steering wheel
2 terminal 30 (continious power)
3 switch low beam/dip light
4 data to CCM = check control module
5 data to CCM = check control module
6 F1 terminal R, IC supply
7 from k7 P2 - tail light right

8 tail light right
9 tail light left
10 parking light right
11 parking light left
12 from brake light switch

13 brake light left
14 switch licence plate light on
15 3rd brake light
16 fog light front left
17 F7 15A, terminal 30
18 fog light switch
19 rear fog light switch

20 high beam via fuse F13, F14
21 low beam left F10
22 low beam right F11
23 check via CCM + CC + OBC (check control module-check control-on board computer)
24 ground
25 data to CCM

26 from K7P6 tail light left
27 from K7P9 parking light right
28 from K7P5 parking light left
29 brake light right

30 licence plate right
31 licence plate left
32 fog light right, front
33 fog light right, rear
34 fog light left, rear
35 F8 15A for rear fog light

Note: this is the ECE/EU version, some pins might be missing in other versions. But the set - up will be the same. So for the US LKM probably the pins for rear fog light might not be there respect. not connected internally.
Depending on year of production and the makers of the LKM the internal parts look different, but the pins are always for the same function.

The pins in one row are 1 - 19
and the other row
20 - 35

[toyotahachiroku]

been using the same lkm i did the mod to since august. no error codes related to lights ever. it won't show errors with burnt bulbs. no error messages for having no bulbs at all either. running 6 cheapo hid up front with led city lights. i've actually soldered on more connections so no bulb shows errors ever.

[demetk]

If you solder a resistor in the LKM like pictured above all you are doing is shorting to ground with a slightly higher ground reference. I'd recommend removing the resistor and directly shorting the pin to ground so that you don't involve any ground shift or floating ground issues.

I did this for my lows and fogs. Courtesy of Shogun I believe.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c375/demet_/e34/lkm_001.jpg

[5mall5nail5]

^^^ Nex ttime you'll want to have less exposed leads showing and hot glue the assembly down to the PCB.

[demetk]

^^^ Nex ttime you'll want to have less exposed leads showing and hot glue the assembly down to the PCB.

Hot glue, good idea. Not having exposed leads in a box of full of exposed leads?

[5mall5nail5]

Hot glue, good idea. Not having exposed leads in a box of full of exposed leads?

The leads exposed by BMW are held in place. If this dudes solder connection decides to break one day due to vibration who knows what it'll short.

[tazidas]

After running around for about 2 years with hid and fault showing I had given up but then I stumbled on this post and it actually works I have a 95 E34 and only have the chip for the low beam not the fog light one so I thought what the hell give it a go and to my relief it has cured the problem.
All I need now is the fix for the number plate light error as im running leds with error fix relays but they don't work. May go back to standard bulbs unless anyone has a fix for this aswell.

[tazidas]

:redspot Used the diagram again and connected 13 14 and 15 to 8 and have cured all lighting issues. Didn't connect 4 as I tried this and it kept throwing up brake circuit error

[attack eagle]

and while you guys are in there, fix the stupid (us version lkm) Fog relay to ground directly to lkm ground instead of thru the high beam filament. jsut have to cut a trace and add a wire.
then you get fogs with highs, and keep fogs working when you have no high beam bulb installed at all

[95///M3]

Mine looks different... Any schematics available for this version ??

http://jimherrold.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/20130325-162732.jpg

[bradbusa]

so if you do this on any number of the circuits attached to those chips, and you get a bulb failure.. will it still give the "bulb out" warning message?

[Binjammin]

Mine looks different... Any schematics available for this version ??

http://jimherrold.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/20130325-162732.jpg


No, but it's fairly easy to figure out. There's going to be at least a couple multiplexer chips. You can cross the part # on the chip to the datasheet at digikey or maybe mouser. You can find the headlight pin you need on the LKM and follow the trace to the appropriate pin on the muxer chip. Ground the appropriate pin and you're good to go. Write it up and add it to this thread.

[Sparke34]

so if you do this on any number of the circuits attached to those chips, and you get a bulb failure.. will it still give the "bulb out" warning message?

No, this will short the circuit to the computer.

[95///M3]

To follow up. I found a newer LKM and used a jumper wire from pin 1 to pin 8 on chip A as indicated and am still getting a F FOG ERROR. Checke fro continuity and it is a solid connection...

Any thoughts?

Jim H.

[shogun]

was this problem solved meanwhile?

[killdamob]

I want to do the mod so I can have highs and fogs, but I'm not exactly sure what you're saying to do. If it matters I also have HID lows and fogs and have modded the lkm so I don't have anything on my dash.

[cddallara]

Huh. I went with 35watt ddm hids and don't get error messages all the time. In fact, less than when I had the stock setup. Certainly not enough to bug me.
Euro lkm. Maybe one of these days I'll pull it out and re solder the connections, but I don't see the need to short anything out.
:dunno

[eightynine535]

Mods move this to DIY

[killdamob]

and while you guys are in there, fix the stupid (us version lkm) Fog relay to ground directly to lkm ground instead of thru the high beam filament. jsut have to cut a trace and add a wire.
then you get fogs with highs, and keep fogs working when you have no high beam bulb installed at all

I want to do the mod so I can have highs and fogs, but I'm not exactly sure what you're saying to do. If it matters I also have HID lows and fogs and have modded the lkm so I don't have anything on my dash.

[Onizukachan]

On a US LKM, the ground for the fog relay doesn't actually go to ground.
it actually goes to the high beam relay OUTPUT, and uses the high beam filament as a path to ground.

When you turn on the high beams, there is no ground for the fog relay anymore, and the relay opens, turning off the fogs.
Ie, no fogs with high beams on... Or with them unplugged.
THEREFORE, if you sever the trace between them on the LKM and instead actually ground the fog relay to the lkm ground pin, like the EU LKM, the fogs will operate independent of high beam status and stay on.

Make sense now?

[ZenitramNaes]

Now mine is a little different. Am I wrong assuming the following?
477768

[sse34]

Now mine is a little different. Am I wrong assuming the following?
<img src="http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=477768"/>

Buy this http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=238

No more error afterwards

[ZenitramNaes]

I had bought something similar from DMM tuning and then realized if I could avoid resistors I would.

[sse34]

I had bought something similar from DMM tuning and then realized if I could avoid resistors I would.

These don't catch on fire like ddm's

But to each his own

[js22]

Thank you SO MUCH for this thread ! No longer am I reminded every single day that my (dead, cracked, held-on-by-duct-tape) fog lights fell offa my car on a bumpy dirt road several years ago.

One hair-splitting technical point, though. The chips labeled A and B merely monitor several (8) digital inputs and send them on in serial form. Q : Where do these inputs come from ? A : From the output of another chip ! In particular, from the AD2201-2 chips also on the LKM circuit board. These are the chips that do the analog job of sensing the presence/absence of a bulb filament.

So if you simply ground one of the inputs (say chip A, pin 1 for front fog lights) you are also grounding an output of the partner AD2201-2 chip. The result is likely to be gonna be a hot, possibly destroyed output transistor. Since the purpose of this mod is to ignore the output, probably nobody cares. But in the off chance the failure mode of the AD2201-2 is less pleasant, or (even less likely) that some day somebody wants to undo the mod, it is probably a good idea to be more careful.

What I did was to verify that chip A, pin 1 was indeed the signal I wanted to ignore. Then I cut/scraped away 1mm or so of the PCB trace leading into pin 1. (Verify that it comes from an output of an AD2201-2 chip !). Then I grounded the pin 1 with a short jumper wire to pin 8, as in the original method.

Again, this hardly matters in any practical way. But one of the joys of having a perfect E34 is the ability to switch on your fog lights at any time. In place of that joy, I have the (even greater ?) joy of knowing that a teeny,tiny unwanted transistor could in theory be used again !

[EEDegreeToDrive]

Thank you SO MUCH for this thread ! No longer am I reminded every single day that my (dead, cracked, held-on-by-duct-tape) fog lights fell offa my car on a bumpy dirt road several years ago.

One hair-splitting technical point, though. The chips labeled A and B merely monitor several (8) digital inputs and send them on in serial form. Q : Where do these inputs come from ? A : From the output of another chip ! In particular, from the AD2201-2 chips also on the LKM circuit board. These are the chips that do the analog job of sensing the presence/absence of a bulb filament.

So if you simply ground one of the inputs (say chip A, pin 1 for front fog lights) you are also grounding an output of the partner AD2201-2 chip. The result is likely to be gonna be a hot, possibly destroyed output transistor. Since the purpose of this mod is to ignore the output, probably nobody cares. But in the off chance the failure mode of the AD2201-2 is less pleasant, or (even less likely) that some day somebody wants to undo the mod, it is probably a good idea to be more careful.

What I did was to verify that chip A, pin 1 was indeed the signal I wanted to ignore. Then I cut/scraped away 1mm or so of the PCB trace leading into pin 1. (Verify that it comes from an output of an AD2201-2 chip !). Then I grounded the pin 1 with a short jumper wire to pin 8, as in the original method.

Again, this hardly matters in any practical way. But one of the joys of having a perfect E34 is the ability to switch on your fog lights at any time. In place of that joy, I have the (even greater ?) joy of knowing that a teeny,tiny unwanted transistor could in theory be used again !

In this thread (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1771344-Anyone-do-the-LKM-mod-for-HID-on-this-version-of-the-LKM) for a Low Beam fail cancel I shorted the output pin of the AD22201 chip responsible for the hot-monitoring half of the circuit. It has an internal pull up resistor, so shorting the pin to ground has no ill effects.
Also in that thread, I attempted to identify several of the other bulb monitoring circuits so folks could do what they wanted with respect to fog lights, parking lights, license plate bulbs, etc.
Over a year after I provided the guidance to a forum member to do a Low Beam fail cancel, I finally got around to performing the mod myself. (I decided to put a 'spare' HID kit in my E34.)

[sse34]

Don't know why people dont just buy a set of error eliminators from theretrofitsource

[Binjammin]

Don't know why people dont just buy a set of error eliminators from theretrofitsource

Because it's a twenty cent fix to hack the LKM versus... whatever the error eliminators cost? At the same time, you don't have the load with the error eliminators versus pulling down a pin on a muxer?

[ZenitramNaes]

These don't catch on fire like ddm's

But to each his own

I didn't mean to put off your idea. Yes, I have heard of DMM's "exploding" due to their reverse polarity. The ones that I got from them don't seem as nice as the ones you link. I might go with those after all..

[sugaki]

Mine looks different... Any schematics available for this version ??

http://jimherrold.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/20130325-162732.jpg

To update this thread, I just defeated the parking light warning and low-beam on this LKM-L US (91 M5), with some help from the Japanese DIY site.

The two chips say TC4021BP, which in the pic above are the two chips to the top and right (the ones that are folding down).

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f8/sugaki/Other%20car%20stuff/bmw-m5-lkm_zps37edced0.jpg (http://s44.photobucket.com/user/sugaki/media/Other%20car%20stuff/bmw-m5-lkm_zps37edced0.jpg.html)

Compare to this pic below, and you'll see that chip A is on the left, chip B is on the right. I ground 14 to 8 for the parking, 1 to 8 for low beam.

http://i53.tinypic.com/e04duq.jpg

[DrCharles]

My E38 and E39 both have aftermarket HID low beams installed... Does anyone know what maximum value of resistance will keep the error message from showing up and minimize wasted power dissipated in the load resistor?

Those "error eliminators" are 6 ohms, which at 12 volts is 2 amps, and will waste 24 watts each! Does it really take 2+ amps draw to set the AD2201 comparator output?

[straight6pwr]

hey guys. all my research points back to this thread on how to get this mod done, but the pictures from the diy are long gone. i was able to figure out which chips need the modification from the discussion, but with no pictures i cant tell which pin is #1 and which is #8. did anyone save these? thanks!

[DrCharles]

Look closely at the IC's... there is either a small "notch" on one end of the package, or a dot next to pin 1.

Pins are numbered counterclockwise like this, looking at the top of the package, not the solder side:

16 15 14 13 12 11 10 09
>
01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08

Hope that helps.

[straight6pwr]

DrCharles, thank you thats what I needed. Do me one last favor and check my work to make sure it matches what the OP intended.

http://i.imgur.com/REquNLQ.jpg




Look closely at the IC's... there is either a small "notch" on one end of the package, or a dot next to pin 1.

Pins are numbered counterclockwise like this, looking at the top of the package, not the solder side:

16 15 14 13 12 11 10 09
>
01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08

Hope that helps.

[E38740iMD]

i may have to do this some time this week. i hate having errors on an error free car...

- - - Updated - - -

wheres a good place to get them pcb blaster. hope they are cheap

[shogun]

Tinypics of toyotahachiroku's first post do not work anymore. If someone downloaded them, please upload them again, thanks

[juhony]

DrCharles, thank you thats what I needed. Do me one last favor and check my work to make sure it matches what the OP intended.

http://i.imgur.com/REquNLQ.jpg

I installed HID's a while back and was looking for a way to fix only the low beam error. Though not the original pictures, this picture helped me out a ton. This is for LKM-L (61.35-8 350 377), US spec. The pin-out for each IC is indeed correct HOWEVER the labeling of chip A & B are incorrect. Chip A is low beam lights (dip beams) and Chip B is fog lights.

[straight6pwr]

I installed HID's a while back and was looking for a way to fix only the low beam error. Though not the original pictures, this picture helped me out a ton. This is for LKM-L (61.35-8 350 377), US spec. The pin-out for each IC is indeed correct HOWEVER the labeling of chip A & B are incorrect. Chip A is low beam lights (dip beams) and Chip B is fog lights.

you are correct. I performed the mod just a couple weeks ago and found the same thing. (forgot to come here and update.)

[shogun]

Here a Japanese language info with pics http://dd.jpn.org/BMW_HP/20040911/index.shtml
including schematic circuit diagram drawing http://dd.jpn.org/BMW_HP/20040911/LKM376.pdf

[scott540i]

you are correct. I performed the mod just a couple weeks ago and found the same thing. (forgot to come here and update.)

Hello,

Thanks for the info on the Low Beam and Fog light warning cancel mod. I wanted to share my findings on the Fog lights with High beam mod.
I'll admit, I was pretty stressed about playing around with the LKM, but I'm so happy it worked out. (so far)
I used a Butane touch soldering iron which was great. One quick touch - done with solder.
My Fogs are now driving beams as I changed my lenses to clears. Now the hot spot is centered instead of dispersed. Bi-xenon is next, but I
won't get into details here. :)

my jumper wires:
622036

Fog Jumper is from Pin 24 (Ground with blue mark) to a pin on the Fog relay. see pics below...
Found the Ground via Bentley Manual and this forum.
622037

the diagram from the original poster with my updates. I found the high beam trigger pin on the fog light relay by accident when using a test light on each pin.
I confirmed my LKM part# LKM USA-L 61.35-8 350 377


622383

The money shot:

622039

thanks and enjoy!

scott

[diegom6]

Wish the OP's pictures could be online to check the details as mine is a euro LKM. I recently installed HID in th elow and LED for high and as well LED for the fogs. All sort of bulb messages in my cluster is driving me nuts.

[shogun]

The only difference between US and EURO is that the EURO has one relay more for rear foglights. Newest LKM mod is in the DIY section https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2373804-LKM-Modification-For-LED-Exterior-Lighting&p=29998123#post29998123

[Jonylevers]

My E34 has HID set up for driving lights and low beam no issues 642136 H1 55w 6000k all i did was cut the wires and soldered the joint to the HID cable with some shrink tube to seal it,three years with no issues.

[shogun]

The older version HID conversion kits from China were all specified as 35W, that probably causes the light warning sometimes.
Nowadays the offers on the bay show a selection of H1 35W or H1 55W, so with the 55W ballaster version there might be no light warning. But one of my wrenching buddies tested one 55W as sample, it had roughly 40-45W only, maybe the brand(?).

Here is the latest write up on warning delete https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2373804-LKM-Modification-For-LED-Exterior-Lighting&p=29998123#post29998123

[Jonylevers]

They now have H1 75w and 100w ballasts with bulbs for as little as $80 AUD though i have ordered 300w H1 6000k LED COB lights for high beam as these have cooling fans built into the aluminium casing ,i have not tested the light output though being China and cheap, you get what you pay for i am surprised i have got three years as the kit was only $40 AUD back then shogun.

[Russellc]

does anyone sell a modified LCM for a 95 525i that will work with LEDS? I want to change my brake, turn signals, backup and taillights. Thanks

[Broombroom]

does anyone sell a modified LCM for a 95 525i that will work with LEDS? I want to change my brake, turn signals, backup and taillights. Thanks
I've already asked and it seems nobody is willing to do it even for money. It sucks because you have to know what you're doing already or the pictures won't make any sense whatsoever

[EEDegreeToDrive]

does anyone sell a modified LCM for a 95 525i that will work with LEDS? I want to change my brake, turn signals, backup and taillights. Thanks
I did some research and reverse engineering a decade ago, for free; information was posted for all on how to disable certain monitoring chips. The spec sheets for the AD123-whatever chips are available, you can reverse engineer and follow the breadcrumbs. Or you can bolt on expensive resistors and/or dump a bunch of money on things that will either generate a lot of heat, or simply not work. "CANBUS-free" LEDs are a joke, they can't possibly intercept "CANBUS" communications between modules and/or trick all different vendors of bulb monitoring systems, particularly when the LKM is sending a bitstream of warnings to the check control module.


I've already asked and it seems nobody is willing to do it even for money. It sucks because you have to know what you're doing already or the pictures won't make any sense whatsoever
Yes, and these bulb monitoring systems were designed to monitor bad bulbs that a) drew too much current (shorted wiring, aka hot testing) b) didn't pull enough current (wrong bulb/ bad bulb). Information is all available if you really wanted; I could certainly try and modify your LKM for you, but I'd probably charge $200+ for my time dig out my notes and to short out the ~6 pins needed to disable the monitoring that keeps folks safe.

[shogun]

one more link -LKM-Modification-For-LED-Exterior-Lighting https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2373804-LKM-Modification-For-LED-Exterior-Lighting

[EEDegreeToDrive]

Two more--

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1771344-Anyone-do-the-LKM-mod-for-HID-on-this-version-of-the-LKM

This one detailed disabling alert for the running HID/LEDs in the low beams, and glossed over the fact that the other AD22xxx chips managed different circuits
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1770756-Low-Beam-Fail-Neuter-w-Pictures-(And-Fog-w-High-Beam-Mod)-for-Early-LKM

[Russellc]

I've already asked and it seems nobody is willing to do it even for money. It sucks because you have to know what you're doing already or the pictures won't make any sense whatsoever

Thanks. that's a shame as i just wanted my tail lights, brake lights to be brighter. I found the rear turn signals, backup lights and the small side marker lights do not have bulb out warning so I have upgraded them to much brighter lights.