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View Full Version : Review: BSH Speed Shop Oil Catch Can & Direct Dual Boost Tap



bluefox280
07-24-2011, 11:10 PM
"...pulling the oil vapor from your R55 / R56 / R57 valvetrain..."

Background:
There's been heavy discussion on the N14's positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system and how it seriously influences the result of carbon build-up on the intake valves of the cylinder head. I wanted to systematically test and see if the amount of oil being pulled from the valve cover was based on engine design, or driver technique.

- Disclaimer -
As always, I am NOT responsible for the careless acts of others when using this DIY as a reference.
Basically all of you are smart enough not to stab yourself, the very important wiring, or the paint on your car.
Be careful and take any precautionary measures that you deem necessary for completing this task.

Supplies:
* BSH Spped Shop - Competition Oil Catch Can (#20201011) assembly kit
* BSH Speed Shop - Direct Dual Boost Tap (#20201102)
* locktite or hightemp RTV silicone



Review (Direct Dual Boost Tap):
Following the outlined details from BSH's website, I started with assembling the billet boost tap housing and fitted the O-rings and the block-off plug. To ensure the seal of the plug, I lightly smeared a layer of RTV silicone on the threads and then snugged it down. Currently at the time of installation, I wasn't planning to run a boost gauge, so I attempted to fit in both of the 1/8"NPT vacuum port plugs. With the billet housing anodized after being fabricated, I could not get the vacuum plugs to properly thread. So bad, that I had to locate a 1/8" thread tap and re-tap and clean the threads to accept the plugs. After cleaning, again I smeared on some RTV silicone and installed the plugs. Fitment of the housing into the passenger side PCV spout was spot on and double o-ring seal was excellent. However the retaining hardware clip needed a quick sanding after being lasered out of stainless; it had some sharp edges and splinters that needed to be removed for installation and fit + finish.

Ratings (out of 10 scale: 1-poor, 10-perfect / learning: 1-hard / 10-easy)

Installation Time: 7
* very simple to orient direction; however had to clean up threads on housing
Learning Experience: 8
* simple, effective - however, BSH should include comprehensive paper directions within the box
Performance: 10
* perfectly blocks off the passenger side PCV spout and with no blow-by
Bang-for-the-Buck: 6
* it's seems expensive for a lathed / milled piece of aluminum; but that's because I think some of the quality control checks were lacking. If everything was simple from right out the box, this would have seen a higher rating
Overall Rating: 8.5
* properly fits within the engine bay and appreciate the black finish to make it not standout

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/bluefox280/DIY%20FAQ%20%20Mini/BSH%20Speed%20Shop/IMG_2960s.jpg



Review (Competition Oil Catch Can):
The can assembly was similar in terms of assembling the billet tap barbs that attach to the driver side PCV spout and the turbo inlet pipe; fit both with the proper o-rings. Similar to the boost tap, no directions were provided in the box, printed them off to have a "quick cheat sheet" near me if thing went south. After removing the OEM PCV tube from the engine, I inserted the adapter barbs. The driver spout adapter went in without a hitch; however the turbo inlet tube adapter needed some serious grunt to put in. The o-rings on the inlet tube adapter were a little to fat and the plastic inlet tube actually cut into the o-rings slicing a small tangental piece. The seal still held after inserting, but the adapter has a small loose-feeling 'wiggle' to it.

Now, my 2009 model has the available security system with the hood latch sensor mounted to the same mounting place as the catch can. Instead of mounting underneath the mounting tab or underneath the sensor (which would have improperly raised the sensor above the weather sealing), I made a replacement bracket out of 18 guage 304 stainless. Similar to the catch can and the OEM sensor bracket, I cleaned and painted the L-bracket and the new sensor bracket so that would not stand out in the engine bay.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/bluefox280/DIY%20FAQ%20%20Mini/BSH%20Speed%20Shop/IMG_7190s.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/bluefox280/DIY%20FAQ%20%20Mini/BSH%20Speed%20Shop/IMG_2963s.jpg

Once the can was mounted, the plastic tab of the cowl didn't seem to happy about the excess weight. The can kind of 'flapped' around and made me hesitant to continue, as I thought surely a bump impact from the susension may crack this tab off, dropping the can. But I pressed on and installed the push lock tubing. I measured, aligned and cut the tubing to my desired lengths. After installing, the can flopping sensation went away; great! However, now my eyes were distracted by the white imprinted lettering on the hose. I removed the hoses from their connections and wiped them down with acetone; within seconds the white lettering was removed leaving just a clean tube. Re-installed and was content and the appearance.

Ratings (out of 10 scale: 1-poor, 10-perfect / learning: 1-hard / 10-easy)

Installation Time: 8
* BSH estimates an hour, I spent just under 45 mins.
Learning Experience: 7
* complete kit; great craftsmenship, but again BSH should include comprehensive paper directions within the box
Performance: 9
* after just a quick drive, I already saw oil collecting in the can
Bang-for-the-Buck: 8
* fit and finish of the can is higher than the boost tap assembly; love the wrinkle finish and the detail work
Overall Rating: 9
* the final result would pass by even the most picky of on-lookers; assuming you put in some elbow grease to clean up some loose ends.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/bluefox280/DIY%20FAQ%20%20Mini/BSH%20Speed%20Shop/IMG_2970s.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/bluefox280/DIY%20FAQ%20%20Mini/BSH%20Speed%20Shop/IMG_7196s.jpg

Follow up with how-much oil is pulled will be recorded and posted by the end of summer.

- Erik

nugent1021
08-23-2011, 04:49 PM
Good stuff, I'd like to see what is pulled to know if this is a good investment (for my 2005). Thanks for the post.

bluefox280
09-11-2011, 04:29 PM
Did my first drain on with the BSH oil catch can yesterday:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/bluefox280/DIY%20FAQ%20%20Mini/BSH%20Speed%20Shop/IMG_0812s.jpg

Car info: 2009 R55 JCW
Current Date: 9/10/2011
Current Mileage: 9107 miles
Miles since Last Emptied: 567 miles

Notes:
- first time to drain out since installation; only removed ~0.5 ounce of oil
- found out that oil crankcrase was overfilled appoximately ~0.3 quart for first ~250 miles of driving
- removed excessive oil and catch can level seemed to not increase; will confirm with future driving with crankcase filled to proper level
- no water condensation found in mixture

Observation: being in Colorado where the weather stays significantly dry, there was no water condensation within the can, rubber lines, or the oil mixture. Car is driven on 20+ min trips with no short trip occurding to make sure engine is up to running temp for a good portion of being out. It was noted that the oil level was higher than the max reading on dip stick, and oil had been collecting right away in the OCC. After removing the excess oil in the crankcase, it appeared that the level (through the OCC dipstick) never increased after such. To confirm, I'll follow up with results making sure the crankcase is not overfilled.

My preliminary thoughts: overfilled crankcases could be part of the reason of intake valve carbon build-up.

- Erik

bluefox280
05-10-2012, 02:48 PM
Completed the second drain on the BSH oil catch can:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/bluefox280/DIY%20FAQ%20%20Mini/BSH%20Speed%20Shop/IMG_0119s.jpg

Car info: 2009 R55 JCW
Current Date: 4/1/2012
Current Mileage: 10557 miles
Miles since Last Emptied: 1450 miles

Notes:
- winter driving produced much more water condensation due to increased humidity and lower dew point
- the semi-clear fluid is discolored water, the opaque tan fluid is the result of a chemical reaction involving the oil vapor with water condensation (very frothy)
- engine oil in crankcase was up to level (no overfilled) at all times; no oil consumption to report

Observation: was a semi wet and cooler Colorado winter. Car is driven on 20+ min trips with no short trips occurring to make sure engine is up to running temp for a good portion of being out.

Thoughts: increased humidity and lower dew point was the cause of the water condensation when the engine cooled after running.

- Erik

bluefox280
11-24-2012, 10:37 AM
Third (3rd) drain on my BSH oil catch can:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/bluefox280/DIY%20FAQ%20%20Mini/BSH%20Speed%20Shop/IMG_2613s.jpg

Car info: 2009 R55 JCW
Current Date: 11/16/2012
Current Mileage: 13913 miles
Miles since Last Emptied: 3356 miles

Notes:
- summer driving produced very little water condensation, but provided approximately the same amount of oil residue.
- This time, the oil has a distinct gasoline smell, however is not extremely flammable.
- The semi-clear fluid is discolored (oxidized rust) water is on the bottom
- the tan separating layer is the result of a chemical reaction involving the oil vapor with water condensation
- the dark brown translucent fluid on top is the oil / gas mixture.
- Engine oil in crankcase was up to level at all times; no oil consumption to report.

Observation: very dry, hot and smoky summer in Colorado due to wildfires; car was driven on longer trips along with 20+ min daily grind to the office.

Thoughts: nothing new to report; steadily watching collection of fluids.

- Erik

RRSperry
12-15-2012, 06:28 AM
From about the end of April, til last week, I hadn't even looked at the can...lol. Now that the temps have dropped, I'll be check it every fill up.

I made a larger collecting jar for my MightyVac tool, so that I can suck out all the junk in one shot.