EVERYBODY!!!!! Let's do the jerk

[GIANUCCI E30]

:help

ok for some reason Zaraki's (535i) rear is clunking around at low speed. Let me define clunking. When coming out of the driveway I can hear a shift in weight resulting in a clunk noise coming from the rear.

While driving and shifting he clunks going up but not downshifting. This is at low speed and does not alway occur.

Also he's a little unsteady in the rear when the road is wet. He likes to breaks traction and starts to fish either left or right. Not a full fishtail just enough for a quick HELLO!!!

The trans and motor mounts have been changed.
The guibo looks ok but I've been here before so I've already ordered my poly/alum guibo from revshift.

I'm thinking it's the bones on the rear trailing arms because they're toast. Any suggestions.

[bfp9]

Rear bones for sure. I am about to replace mine as well. Your symptoms are exactly what mine are. Mine are actually in the mail!

[jint45]

Rear bones for sure. I am about to replace mine as well. Your symptoms are exactly what mine are. Mine are actually in the mail!

I have these symptoms too, rear bones you mean the control arm bushings and the trailing arm bushings?

[mateo710]

Hm I've notice I have a clunk coming from my right rear somewhere near the wheel. It really only happens though when the body is rolling under a hard right turn or when I turn right into my driveway. Could this be What your talking about above? It's not suspension related I've already checked that

[GIANUCCI E30]

I have these symptoms too, rear bones you mean the control arm bushings and the trailing arm bushings?

These:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/imgdsply.cgi?pn=33321126476-M69

[GIANUCCI E30]

Hm I've notice I have a clunk coming from my right rear somewhere near the wheel. It really only happens though when the body is rolling under a hard right turn or when I turn right into my driveway. Could this be What your talking about above? It's not suspension related I've already checked that


Yes and no. But I want to hear what you found and see if that's it.

My driveway is uneven and has a incline at the bottom. (old house)
It's not a body roll issue. For i can take a hard turn with no problem at high or low speed. South jersey has some interesting twisties.

It's isolated, better yet I hear it only when I'm shifting at low speed and when transfer of weight is being made in my driveway. But it's once in a while on the shifting part.

I've already ordered some Meyle rear strut mounts and the bones. Rear stabilizer and links have already been upgraded. Only two things I haven't done are the sub frame trailing arm bushings and the diff mount.

[mpaganr34]

I had these symptoms for a while, also only upshifting (specifically from first to second when I clutched in) but they're gone now :shifty
If you tap the brakes pretty quickly with some force, does it clunk as well?

[ShapeShifter]

Also check you dif mount while you are under there.

[GIANUCCI E30]

ok funny shit time.

It didn't clunk around today... yet :confused

I purposely tried to make it recreate the clunking noise but no dice.





I think zaraki knows I've been talking about him.

[mateo710]

Yes and no. But I want to hear what you found and see if that's it.

My driveway is uneven and has a incline at the bottom. (old house)
It's not a body roll issue. For i can take a hard turn with no problem at high or low speed. South jersey has some interesting twisties.

It's isolated, better yet I hear it only when I'm shifting at low speed and when transfer of weight is being made in my driveway. But it's once in a while on the shifting part.

I've already ordered some Meyle rear strut mounts and the bones. Rear stabilizer and links have already been upgraded. Only two things I haven't done are the sub frame trailing arm bushings and the diff mount.

the problem is i havent found out where my clunking is coming from. because it only happens when im driving. although i forgot to mention it also happens when i go over speed bumps so its not just from body roll. really the only way i can search for it is i have a friend bounce up and down on my car while i stick my hand in there trying to find it. as of today though, no luck

[AndrewH]

Dogbones and subframe bushings brah.

[Mark185]

:help

ok for some reason Zaraki's (535i) rear is clunking around at low speed. Let me define clunking. When coming out of the driveway I can hear a shift in weight resulting in a clunk noise coming from the rear.

While driving and shifting he clunks going up but not downshifting. This is at low speed and does not alway occur.

Also he's a little unsteady in the rear when the road is wet. He likes to breaks traction and starts to fish either left or right. Not a full fishtail just enough for a quick HELLO!!! .

My 95 Touring is doing similar things. The rear end is a little unsteady and I am hearing a rhythmic noise related to wheel or driveshaft speed at low vehicle speeds. The noise seems to go away at 30 mph or above cruise. My dogbones are only a year old. Trailing arm bushings, wheel bearings, and shocks are also fairly new. I am thinking the noise and the swaying rear are not necessarily related unless a half shaft CV joint is going bad. This could cause the clunk and swaying rear end if torque loading is not equal in both half shafts. If one side is binding, the car will want to pivot around the wheel that is seeing the extra drag from bad CV joint. I have parked mine until I can sort it out because I don't feel safe in bad weather. My rear subframe bushings are also very old.

[6erWEBB]

Ill be watching this thread, Mine seems to do this a t low speeds around corners (sometimes). Im curious how the dogbones work out for you.

[wastedincome]

Dogbones and subframe bushings brah.

YUP along w/ checking CSB & diff. mounts........

[wastedincome]

My 95 Touring is doing similar things. The rear end is a little unsteady and I am hearing a rhythmic noise related to wheel or driveshaft speed at low vehicle speeds. The noise seems to go away at 30 mph or above cruise. My dogbones are only a year old. Trailing arm bushings, wheel bearings, and shocks are also fairly new. I am thinking the noise and the swaying rear are not necessarily related unless a half shaft CV joint is going bad. This could cause the clunk and swaying rear end if torque loading is not equal in both half shafts. If one side is binding, the car will want to pivot around the wheel that is seeing the extra drag from bad CV joint. I have parked mine until I can sort it out because I don't feel safe in bad weather. My rear subframe bushings are also very old.

From what I have "lernt" the half-shafts rarely go bad:rolleyes

[GIANUCCI E30]

Ok well here's the skinny.

@2000 rpm (roughly 25-30mph) puttering around town I get a clunk. However it settles down past that. As well when deceling all's well.

Again it doesn't occur all the time. For at a more spirited accel still not going over 25-30 (stop and go) it doesn't show up.

I am going to look into all of it and give the verdict probably tomorrow.

[mandd]

Subframe Bushings.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1371519

[GIANUCCI E30]

Ok powerflex subframe bushings have been ordered from my boys at schmiedmanns. So lets see what happens.

[GIANUCCI E30]

Woke up this morning. Made pancakes, cheese eggs, and bacon. Door bell rings. My stuff has arrived.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=514&pictureid=8733

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=514&pictureid=8735

Schmiedmann Dog Bones

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=514&pictureid=8734

Meyle Rear strut mounts

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=514&pictureid=8736

And the Powerflex sub bushings

:D

[Mark185]

Joe, how much were the Powerflex subframe bushings? You have me interested. I didn't know they made them for the E34.

Something else to think about in terms of the clunking. There are two differential mount bushings on the sides of the subframe with large bolts going thru the bushings into a mount bolted to the diff case. They are M12X1.5X90 bolts on realoem.com. One of mine failed last year. It started with clunking that was intermittent and eventually failed completely. The bolt sheared off inside the mount. Here is Realoem link :

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD53&mospid=47404&btnr=33_0154&hg=33&fg=10

The bolt is #5 and the mount is # 6. I replaced the mount and bolt with parts from my dearly departed 535iM. I am speculating that the bolt was in the process of cracking or was loose during the initial stages of hearing the clunking noise. When it failed completely, I had a massive clunk every time I applied the gas at low speeds. The whole diff was pivoting up into the chassis under torque loading. If this is your problem, it is relatively easy to fix unless the bolt shears off inside the mount. Then you have to get out your drill and easy outs. (How come using 'easy outs' on old cars is anything but easy???)

[GIANUCCI E30]

Joe, how much were the Powerflex subframe bushings? You have me interested. I didn't know they made them for the E34.

Something else to think about in terms of the clunking. There are two differential mount bushings on the sides of the subframe with large bolts going thru the bushings into a mount bolted to the diff case. They are M12X1.5X90 bolts on realoem.com. One of mine failed last year. It started with clunking that was intermittent and eventually failed completely. The bolt sheared off inside the mount. Here is Realoem link :

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD53&mospid=47404&btnr=33_0154&hg=33&fg=10

The bolt is #5 and the mount is # 6. I replaced the mount and bolt with parts from my dearly departed 535iM. I am speculating that the bolt was in the process of cracking or was loose during the initial stages of hearing the clunking noise. When it failed completely, I had a massive clunk every time I applied the gas at low speeds. The whole diff was pivoting up into the chassis under torque loading. If this is your problem, it is relatively easy to fix unless the bolt shears off inside the mount. Then you have to get out your drill and easy outs. (How come using 'easy outs' on old cars is anything but easy???)

Hey Mark I attempted to go under the car, but it started to rain. No I'm more steering toward the bushings and bones on this one. I think my visual inspection with the concensus here is dead on for they are shot.

I took a short drive yesterday toward you, back into the borough, toward manalapan and FRHLD TWP trying to pinpoint via ear.

Its not a metallic sound, nor is it a weighted force. It's definitely a transitional noise.

I dumped the clutch a couple times to get a read on it. It doesn't react like a diff movement noise. ( I had a renault alliance with that problem)
Still leaning toward the bushings and bones.

Yeah sure I can give you a quote on the powerflex bushings. PM coming now.

[SpeedsterBek]

Rear end clunks when shifting up or when coming on/ off the gas quickly. Also, rear end likes to fishtail side to side at high speeds. I have brand new subframe bushings.
I have the same symptoms as you described but mine turned out to be rear trailing arm bushings. (http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD53&mospid=47404&btnr=33_0223&hg=33&fg=30)
Looks like a pain in the neck to replace, and that's why I'm putting it off till summer.

Those bushings dampen the forward/backward movement of the rear wheel, and everytime the throttle or brake applied they are affected first.

[Mark185]

Rear end clunks when shifting up or when coming on/ off the gas quickly. Also, rear end likes to fishtail side to side at high speeds. I have brand new subframe bushings.
I have the same symptoms as you described but mine turned out to be rear trailing arm bushings. (http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD53&mospid=47404&btnr=33_0223&hg=33&fg=30)
Looks like a pain in the neck to replace, and that's why I'm putting it off till summer.

Those bushings dampen the forward/backward movement of the rear wheel, and everytime the throttle or brake applied they are affected first.

My RTABs were a pain to replace with my home mechanic tool set. I removed the trailing arms thinking it would be easy but the shape of the arms makes it impossible to use a conventional hydraulic press. I made a homemade press using 1/2" drive sockets, a long hardened bolt, and various large washers purchased from Fastenal. The bolt and washers were almost $80.00. Even then, it was difficult. The bushing outer shell is metal and it bonds to the trailing arm hole over time. Now that I have done it once, I would cut the center section out next time and then use a hacksaw to cut the outer shell before pressing out. Pressing the new ones in is no picnic either. It would probably help to put the bushings in the freezer for an hour or two before installing and use a torch to heat up the trailing arm hole.

When I ran into trouble with mine, I gave up and took the trailing arms with one bushing replaced to a local independent shop (Mr. M Car). The owner installed the rest of the bushings and charged me $400. It was more than reasonable to install 3 bushings but I was desperate to get the job done and car back on the road. To add insult to injury, he told me he bent the expensive hardened steel bolt I was using but mysteriously did not return the bolt or the washers I had purchased. I was out almost $500 and learned a valuable lesson about planning in advance for a difficult job and allowing enough time to finish when difficulties arise. I also learned regrettably that one of the better independent bimmer shops in my area is not trustworthy.

[jint45]

Subframe Bushings.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1371519

E34 doesn't have subframe bushings, there are trailing arms and control arms at the back.

[garethashenden]

E34 doesn't have subframe bushings, there are trailing arms and control arms at the back.

Uh, part #2?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/o/k/9.png
The rear is subframe, (#2 above) trailing arm, pitman arm aka dogbone (#2 and #6 respectively below).
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/o/k/10.png

[garethashenden]

My RTABs were a pain to replace with my home mechanic tool set. I removed the trailing arms thinking it would be easy but the shape of the arms makes it impossible to use a conventional hydraulic press. I made a homemade press using 1/2" drive sockets, a long hardened bolt, and various large washers purchased from Fastenal. The bolt and washers were almost $80.00. Even then, it was difficult. The bushing outer shell is metal and it bonds to the trailing arm hole over time. Now that I have done it once, I would cut the center section out next time and then use a hacksaw to cut the outer shell before pressing out. Pressing the new ones in is no picnic either. It would probably help to put the bushings in the freezer for an hour or two before installing and use a torch to heat up the trailing arm hole.

When I ran into trouble with mine, I gave up and took the trailing arms with one bushing replaced to a local independent shop (Mr. M Car). The owner installed the rest of the bushings and charged me $400. It was more than reasonable to install 3 bushings but I was desperate to get the job done and car back on the road. To add insult to injury, he told me he bent the expensive hardened steel bolt I was using but mysteriously did not return the bolt or the washers I had purchased. I was out almost $500 and learned a valuable lesson about planning in advance for a difficult job and allowing enough time to finish when difficulties arise. I also learned regrettably that one of the better independent bimmer shops in my area is not trustworthy.

trailing arm bushings are enough of a pita that the local BMW shop doesn't really want to do mine....

[Mark185]

trailing arm bushings are enough of a pita that the local BMW shop doesn't really want to do mine....

Getting the old bushings out is easier than pressing in the new ones. I wonder if the Kmac poly bushings are the best way to go for a home mechanic? They will certainly be easier to install. I do think this is one of those jobs that you must do yourself if you want it done right - unless you have a local shop that is competent and honest.

[SpeedsterBek]

My local so -called "best" bmw indy quoted me $700 to replace 4 RTABs, including parts. Arrggg. Just for kicks, I looked up price for new trailing arms: $1300 for both side from getbmwparts.com. Hahah might as well put new ones lol

Joking aside, here is what I plan to do:
-Get couple of good used trailing arms from a local junkyard (for less than $100),
- buy these poly rear trailing arm bushings from akg (http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog/catalog.php?page=2&category=e32%2Fe34%20Suspension%2FBushings) ($120+ shipping)
- replace bushings on the junk yard trailing arms
- swap Trailing arms in my E34
Viola!

[Mark185]

My local so -called "best" bmw indy quoted me $700 to replace 4 RTABs, including parts. Arrggg. Just for kicks, I looked up price for new trailing arms: $1300 for both side from getbmwparts.com. Hahah might as well put new ones lol

Joking aside, here is what I plan to do:
-Get couple of good used trailing arms from a local junkyard (for less than $100),
- buy these poly rear trailing arm bushings from akg (http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog/catalog.php?page=2&category=e32%2Fe34%20Suspension%2FBushings) ($120+ shipping)
- replace bushings on the junk yard trailing arms
- swap Trailing arms in my E34
Viola!

Good plan. It is what I would do with hindsight. Keep in mind that the stub axle is different for the 535i and probably all V8 models. Half shaft diameter and bolt circle diameter where it attaches to stub axle is different also. Buy trailing arms to match the model you already own or get the half shafts also.

[GIANUCCI E30]

OK if you been following this thread then you've been waiting on the final result....

Well the clunking in the rear of my car was being caused by 2 issues.

One being the Subframe Bushings and the other being the Pitman Arms. For both were far from being adequate for normal driving conditions.

With the help of Mark185 and Schmiedmann, who supplied us with Powerflex Subframe bushings, Meyle HD rear strut mounts and Schmiedmann's own HD Pitman arms. We began the maintenance. However we didn't install the strut mounts... next time.

There is a writeup on the removal of the Subframe bushings on the forum.
I didn't take pics due to that plus being we had a Subframe bushing removal tool at our disposal the job was somewhat less tedious for we have to remove the subframe.

The ride now is completely different. The rear is solid and Zaraki's youthful prancing has been revived.

The Powerflex units were beautiful and relatively easy to install.

Being somewhat of a test subject on the Schmiedmann HD pitman arms I will have to report their performance as time progresses.

However I think the biggest improvment were from the Powerflex bushings.
For the OEM bushings were a wreck, one of which was completely separated from the rubber.

So if your having the same clunking around in the rear like I had. I recommend replacing these two items.

Finally for a shameless plug....

If you'd like to get your hands on some Powerflex bushing sets. Feel free to PM me and we'll make it happen.


As well if you took advantage of the FCP Meyle HD 10 piece front setup. This upgrade/ maintenance would compliment it perfectly.

Had to give Michael and FCP plug as well.:D

[mandd]

E34 doesn't have subframe bushings, there are trailing arms and control arms at the back.

Jint please review and think about what you are talking about before you post, I have been doing this for a very, very long time.

And for clairification it is called the rear axle carrier rubber mount, but is also known has the subframe mount.

Cheers,

Mark.

[GIANUCCI E30]

E34 doesn't have subframe bushings, there are trailing arms and control arms at the back.

Uh dude. If your e34 doesn't have a subframe. Then If i were you I'd seriously look into selling it asap or returning it to the original owner.

[attack eagle]

E34 doesn't have subframe bushings, there are trailing arms and control arms at the back.

really? where are the control arms?

[K Fox]

^^ Yeah, that 'interesting' statement made me say "N00bs...being new." No subframe??!!?! Oh well.


The guibo looks ok but I've been here before so I've already ordered my poly/alum guibo from revshift.

This made me so very happy when I saw it. But now I'm very not-happy. They apparently only make 2 sizes - 78mm and 96mm. The sad part is that the 540's have a 105mm guibo, and it's thicker too, so I guess we're all just SOL. Sad day...:( I wanted an indestructible guibo...

Fox

[87shark]

Hm I've notice I have a clunk coming from my right rear somewhere near the wheel. It really only happens though when the body is rolling under a hard right turn or when I turn right into my driveway. Could this be What your talking about above? It's not suspension related I've already checked that

This sounds like a CV axle.