HELP! Stripped half-shaft bolt

[AgentHubcap]

I stripped one of the half shaft E12 bolts tonight and want to know what options I have to get it out. I managed to get every one except that one.

Is there anything I can do to remove it? All the others were a royal pain in the ass to get out.

[mario8139]

same here just happened last week and I just cut it off, best way

[hinzm3]

I did that on my e30 and had to cut it off as well...

[AgentHubcap]

can I just grind it flat and still get the diff out? I was planning on replacing the bolts anyway as half of them were half stripped already.

Or did you mean cut the half-shaft?

[asinapple8805]

i think they mean cut the bolt, take two (or three) nuts and wrench the remaining stud out.

I was afraid of stripping mine, so i used a small hammer and tapped the socket onto each reverse torx bolt head to ensure a positive grab surface. i guess the other route is for you to disconnect the upper control arms, lower control arms, rtab pocket, parking brake cable, brake line, and just remove the thing out as one whole piece with the diff.

[AgentHubcap]

i think they mean cut the bolt, take two (or three) nuts and wrench the remaining stud out.

I was afraid of stripping mine, so i used a small hammer and tapped the socket onto each reverse torx bolt head to ensure a positive grab surface. i guess the other route is for you to disconnect the upper control arms, lower control arms, rtab pocket, parking brake cable, brake line, and just remove the thing out as one whole piece with the diff.
I did exactly that, except it still let go. These bolts were crazy, though. I actually broke one of my 3/8" ratchets trying to get them out.

[hinzm3]

I just took a die grinder attachment and cut the head off. Once the head was cut off and you remove the washer the bolt just comes right out with some pliers or something.

[fsmtnbiker]

I always use an impact on those halfshaft bolts - I haven't ever had issues with them when using an impact. They are easy to strip with a regular ratchet though.

You can just pop the drive flange out of the diff as well.

[ScotcH]

+1 to impact ... it makes any job go WAY more stress free.

Replace ALL the bolts. Buy some good quality 12.9 allen head bolts instead, and you'll have an easier time next time.

[AgentHubcap]

I was planning on replacing all of them with new ones already. I didn't even think about ditching the splines of poor judgment.

This is going to sound stupid, but where can I get 12.9 bolts from?

[ScotcH]

I was planning on replacing all of them with new ones already. I didn't even think about ditching the splines of poor judgment.

This is going to sound stupid, but where can I get 12.9 bolts from?

Nearly all black allen head cap screws will be grade 12.9. Any good fasterner supply store will have them, or can get them next day. Mcmaster-Carr will have them for sure. Make sure you get the length right as there is not much room behind the flange and you don't want them interfering with anything. They will also be a lot cheaper than the BMW bolts :)

[Albertan]

Try a place like Industrial Bolt and Supply in Portland. Or any industrial supplier.
NOT your local hardware store.

[GG Allin]

Nearly all black allen head cap screws will be grade 12.9. Any good fasterner supply store will have them, or can get them next day. Mcmaster-Carr will have them for sure. Make sure you get the length right as there is not much room behind the flange and you don't want them interfering with anything. They will also be a lot cheaper than the BMW bolts :)

I bought a dozen of the ones on the right at an industrial Ace. I'm on the fence as to whether or not I want to use them. The threads go most of the way to the head = weaker bolt. They are 12.9 though.

http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac293/mbrouder1/IMG_20110131_164348.jpg?t=1299097144

[AgentHubcap]

Is there a reason why I would want to use an allen bolt vs a regular bolt? I would think that the hole would collect a lot of debris...

[AgentHubcap]

I used an angle grinder to remove this bolt tonight. It worked, however, when I pulled the diff, I was able to undo the bolt with only my fingers. Something about this diff swap seems really odd...

Thanks for the suggestion to cut the bolt.

[hinzm3]

Once you have the head to the bolt cut off you should be able to just undo it with your fingers.. Sometimes you get a cranky one and gotta pull the pliers out.

I would replace all of those bolts as mentioned above.

[AgentHubcap]

I just surprised me because they were such a pain to take off...

I'm picking up some 12.9 allen bolts this weekend to replace all of the spline bolts. I messed up one of the reinforcement plates, so I'll need to drop by BMW for that, too.

Is loctite recommended for these bolts? I think I've got some loctite blue somewhere. Is that sufficient?

[hinzm3]

If you really want to use loctite I wouldn't use anything higher than the blue. I never bothered with it though and just torqued them to spec. I don't think you're going to have any issues with those bolts backing out if they are tq'd.

[AgentHubcap]

The only reason why I ask is Volf's diff swap thread said to use loctite (but didn't specify where to use it)

[hinzm3]

I don't think it's a big deal if you do or don't. I've never done it and never had any issues on the street or track.

[AgentHubcap]

Awesome. Thanks for the help everyone!

[ZUUD BYE]

If you really want to use loctite I wouldn't use anything higher than the blue. I never bothered with it though and just torqued them to spec. I don't think you're going to have any issues with those bolts backing out if they are tq'd.

The back of the reverse torx have little ridges which lock to the reinforcement tabs. shouldn't need loctite.