My Touring swap thread, b30/auto -> b40/6spd

[AHenry014]

so as some of you know, ive picked up the donor car for the swap. Its a 540/6 with 182k on it. It does have a nikasil motor in it but it runs fine so i will be using it.

The base car will be my 530iT. the b30 in there runs just fine, its only got 132kish on it bc bmw swapped it back in the day when the car had 55k on it. unfortunately the b30 isnt worth much so i will be scavenging it for parts.

i have not actually started the physical swap besides getting the car and pulling a bit of the front end apart. so for right now i have a couple questions/statements.

1. gaskets and seals. when the motor is out i plan to change: the rear coolant distribution block orings and gaskets, the VC gaskets, the thermostat/housing, and i will most likely be doing the rear main seal as well. ill split the trans from the engine and check the clutch as well, but it felt fine. i took a close look at the engine and its VERY dry. it hasent been run in 2ish yrs but it should be oily if it was a leaker. anything else i should consider changing? i dont mind changing things later but i want to get the things that are impossible to get to when the engines in.

2. exhaust. i JUST installed a b&b triflow onto my car. it was from a 525 so the pipes are 2" each. it was the same size as the b30 exhaust so it didnt matter. Now that the b40 will be going in along with my existing b30 cats and B&B, im worried about restriction issues. should i worry about this? ill keep the b40 exhaust around just incase.

SOLVED: need non-ews DME which is pre-1/95 and comes from b40 car. 3. NEW: the car has EWS and therefor i will not be able to use its DME (correct?) i assume i can just pop the chip from the ews ecu into my b30 404 ecu. right? or will the ews chip not work?

edit: found some info on cutting a wire to the ecu and it will work?

4. the car has depo smileys, Bav springs, and all stock 540/6 stuff. i havent made a partout thread but if your interested in stuff PM me. cars in 02896 and i have almost zero time to ship things as of right now. i go to school during the week and will be working on the swap on the weekends. minus the swap parts; claimed so far is the entire interior, strut tubes, skirts and brakes.

ill be continuing this thread through the swap. thanks for looking!

[cmgreensr]

Demanding pics! Very jealous as well. 540 exhaust will flow a lil bit better but you CAN run the 530 exhaust if you choose. You will be done before bfest right?

[AquilaBMW]

Alex - What colour combo is the 540/6? Does it have ASC ?

[AHenry014]

haha ill grab some pictures this weekend, when the engines going to be pulled from the donor. whens b-fest?


Alex - What colour combo is the 540/6? Does it have ASC ?

black/black. it does have ASC but i wont be using it. it will be deleted.

[cmgreensr]

C'mon man, I know you aren't living under a rock! 8/6 You need to get out of OT a lil more often,lol.

[AHenry014]

lolllllllll by 8/6?!! of course it will be done. im shooting for it being done in the next couple weekends! the auto is killin me! the only thing im nervous about is the driveshaft (see other threads for that one)

EDIT: just looked a the location of the show. dont think ill be making it down there that far :-(

[cmgreensr]

Yeah I read about the driveshaft issues. I have the opposite, I got a line on a really cheap 530 5 speed and diff but no driveshaft. Same issue as yours but in reverse. Hey, I got it, you take the 5 speed and I'll take the 6. What do ya say? lol. 8/6 will come pretty quick and you know some people take a LONG time to do swaps so I didn't know how fast you would be working. Can't wait to check it out in person.

[sfgearhead]

Woo hoo! Another swapped touring. Can't wait to see some pics.

What's the story on the donor? Wrecked, or just high mile?

[AHenry014]

hah the story on the donor is a very confusing one.

the car has a reconstructed title but i cannot find where it was hit. thought it was hit right front as the framerail had some work done, but im not so sure now. looks like someone broke a subframe bolt in the frame and had to cut/weld a new piece in. the car has ~182k on it, which is less than either of the e34's ive owned. i dont really consider it high miles. i got it cheaply bc it was NON-running, the engine wiring was messed with and there were some added grounds and whatnot. i bought it wihtout seeing it run or drive at all. got it home and had it running in 3 minutes with a light jump. tried to start it with just the jump, nothin. found a missing relay in the DME box so i jumped the two fat red wires comming in and out of it. not sure what the relay socket was for but i figured it was important. next try the car started right up. minus a sticky throttle cable and a clutch that wont return (slave/master), it ran and drove just fine. i figured the jumper made it do its thing. Last night i drove it to its hole in my yard wihtout the jumper just after Bloodhound took the obc and its wiring. connected? idk. idk if the jumper was even doing anything, but regardless i literally just stuck a battery in it and it fired. Not sure what these goobers were doing with the thing. it went through 2 people that couldnt get it running. TWO! the second didnt even attempt to put a battery in it to try! now im just worried about other technicalities as to why the PO that actually drove the car got rid of it. im sure it was because of the wiring but all i did was put a battery in it! :baffled:


ill get pics next weekend while pulling this sucker. Note: also MISSING the drivers engine mount. its just not there. the passenger side s new though! llolllllll

[AHenry014]

hah the story on the donor is a very confusing one.

the car has a reconstructed title but i cannot find where it was hit. thought it was hit right front as the framerail had some work done, but im not so sure now. looks like someone broke a subframe bolt in the frame and had to cut/weld a new piece in. the car has ~182k on it, which is less than either of the e34's ive owned. i dont really consider it high miles. i got it cheaply bc it was NON-running, the engine wiring was messed with and there were some added grounds and whatnot. i bought it wihtout seeing it run or drive at all. got it home and had it running in 3 minutes with a light jump. tried to start it with just the jump, nothin. found a missing relay in the DME box so i jumped the two fat red wires comming in and out of it. not sure what the relay socket was for but i figured it was important. next try the car started right up. minus a sticky throttle cable and a clutch that wont return (slave/master), it ran and drove just fine. i figured the jumper made it do its thing. Last night i drove it to its hole in my yard wihtout the jumper just after Bloodhound took the obc and its wiring. connected? idk. idk if the jumper was even doing anything, but regardless i literally just stuck a battery in it and it fired. Not sure what these ders were doing with the thing. it went through 2 people that couldnt get it running. TWO! the second didnt even attempt to put a battery in it to try! now im just worried about other technicalities as to why the PO that actually drove the car got rid of it. im sure it was because of the wiring but all i did was put a battery in it! :baffled:


ill get pics next weekend while pulling this sucker. Note: also MISSING the drivers engine mount. its just not there. the passenger side s new though! llolllllll

[TGreene]

I love reading these threads. Subscribed and waiting on pictures!

[AHenry014]

should i replace the flywheel bolts when doing the rear main seal? ive been reading that their not stetch bolts and i can reuse them.... saves me 35 dollars.

edit: nvm, v8 dual mass bolts are part of the flywheel and cant be reused. just new loc-tite and im good to go.

[bfp9]

nice pick up. It sounds like you are planning on getting the swap done pretty quick. Are you planning on cleaning the b40 up before you put it into the touring?

[AHenry014]

if its warm enough to use the hose, sure. if not ll clean it later, but honestly its VERY clean. just the top of it is dirty from sitting. just needs a quick hose down in the springs. the tourings bay on the other hand, freakin power steering leak

question added

[Melchoir]

Cool stuff, will be watching this as I will be doing the same shortly


edit: nvm, v8 dual mass bolts are part of the flywheel and cant be reused. just new loc-tite and im good to go.


Confused by this - so you're going to re-use them anyway or did you mean to type "can" be reused.

Still trying to find a good deal on a flywheel, my swap didn't come with one.

[camaroguy]

they "can" be. They don't come out of the flywheel.

I don't think I even used locktite since the bently didn't say to and it didnt look like there was any on the bolts before (there was on the flexplate bolts for the auto though). I guess I will find out the hard way if that was a mistake ;)

[AHenry014]

haha i was doing some research on it. seems Kalevera just put a dab of loc-tite on em and reuse. others say use oil :shrugs: i think id feel more comfortable wit loc-tite thats for sure.

another question. someone tell me why the TO bearing are huge moneys!

[Binjammin]

nig nogs? :confused

[bfp9]

nig nogs? :confused

I read that and thought the exact same thing. Made me a little bit angry, not going to lie.

[AHenry014]

just edited. sorry about that. i just used it as a word for "idiot". i had to urban dictionary it to get why you guys even said anything about it. herp derp

[BavarianFanatic]

herp derp? :confused

[m3 bavaria]

Do you not worry about putting such a high mileage motor in the car?

[AHenry014]

nope. not really. like i said the donor has less miles than either e34 ive owned, and neither has/had any engine issues having to do with wear or age. a friend of mine put an m62/6spd in his car with over 200k on it. no issues. sure i wish it wer lower but it doesnt bother me

[HE53]

We need pics before the weekend!!!!!

Looking forward to where this goes.

Do it right and put all new seals and gaskets on the 4.0. If it delay's the swap a couple weeks for funds, so be it. Do the water pump, valley pan gasket, and intake gaskets as well. Put that motor in with peace of mind knowing you won't have to touch it for a while. Its so much easier to work on it out of the car.

[HE53]

We need pics before the weekend!!!!!

Looking forward to where this goes.

Do it right and put all new seals and gaskets on the 4.0. If it delay's the swap a couple weeks for funds, so be it. Do the water pump, valley pan gasket, and intake gaskets as well. Put that motor in with peace of mind knowing you won't have to touch it for a while. Its so much easier to work on it out of the car.

[AHenry014]

i wont be able to get pics before the weekend! i at school, donor 50 miles away at home where the project is happening. i haz the sorries.

wish i had the funds to get those things done but for now i think i can go without it. i know its not the best decision but i can always do them later. im getting the REALLY bad stuff out of the way at least lol. and the PO that actually cared for the car did a "rebuild" to the engine. i dont know what that means but im hoping it gaskets, the cleanliness and dryness of the engine really point to that. ill take pictures of the engine the way it comes out, youll be surprised. ill do some closer investigation into what gaskets may or may not have been changed

[mikeday1036]

win!!!

i'll be around to assist with zee swap.






i have no concerns about that high of mileage

[AHenry014]

wooohooo! engine pull this weekend buddy!

found another DME from a non-ews car!

[AHenry014]

DME arrived and looks good! going to yank the heart of the beast today. will take pictures..

EDIT: car wouldnt stay running this time around for some reason. didnt spend much time diagnosing it bc it would start for a second then die every time. i figured the fuel pump was doing something funky or it was a wiring issue. i dont care ill be using the b30 wiring and the non-ews dme i just grabbed. should be good to go. Mr. Mike day can figure out the wiring when he obd1 swaps lol

ok heres the pictures youve all been asking for. ill just put them in order of how i took them lol.

comment as you wish, engine came out without a hitch really. found a nice surprise on the alternator cable, and also found out the clutch may or may not have been done...but theres plenty of meat on that sucker. the rear main looks like its been done. another thing to note, EVERY e34 i buy has the guibo on backwards. arrow toward the flange! my calypso car was like this and i esploded a guibo and it killed my CSB. my wagon's is backwards with the b30 auto right now, and so was this one. geesh.

enjoy, sorry for the quality, only thing handy was my phone

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/sxracer001/touring%20swap/IMG_0097.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/sxracer001/touring%20swap/IMG_0098.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/sxracer001/touring%20swap/IMG_0099.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/sxracer001/touring%20swap/IMG_0100.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/sxracer001/touring%20swap/IMG_0102.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/sxracer001/touring%20swap/IMG_0103.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/sxracer001/touring%20swap/IMG_0105.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/sxracer001/touring%20swap/IMG_0110.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/sxracer001/touring%20swap/IMG_0116.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/sxracer001/touring%20swap/IMG_0120.jpg

OHHH!!
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/sxracer001/touring%20swap/IMG_0122.jpg

goofy looking e39 hubcaps i throw on today :-P
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/sxracer001/touring%20swap/IMG_0111.jpg

[AHenry014]

stupid dublepost

[Melchoir]

good stuff.

This might be a stupid stupid question but here it goes anyway
Why open the harness already, I thought you're just bolting the b30 harness on to the b40?


Edit: Nvm. Donor car, wiring issues. It all comes together now. Derp.

[TGreene]

Is that the ground that has all of the insulation stripped off of it?

[AHenry014]

thats the fat wire that gopes from the alternator to the starter. yikes! steve took some pictures today, as did i. driveshaft idea will NOT work as the Ujoints are on opposite sides of the CSB. mike day provided me with a shaft that i will get modified this week, so i will not have downtime. im going to use the majority of the donated shaft, only using the front half of the 540/6 shaft for the guibo flange. the rear flange is no good on this one so i will have to swap it from my current driveshaft. no biggy.

[Steve547i]

i in fact did take pictures. as to when they will be up i have no idea. Im busy until like weds nonstop but ill see what i can do

[AHenry014]

word thanks buddy. sending you email in a couple

[AHenry014]

driveshaft dropped off, pelican order placed, short shifter ordered at dealer.

driveshaft frankenstein didnt work out the way i thought it would. the first picture 540/6 shaft on the left. second picture its on the right. the other shaft is from a '93 525/5. its the same as a 530 shaft as far as the rear half is concerned. Notice the u-joints on opposite sides of the center bearing. seems my splice in the center will not work. also the rear output flange that attaches to the diff is 28 spline on the 540 shaft and 26 on the the 525/530 shaft. so swapping that wont work either.

took it to the driveshaft shop, said i wanted the 540 guibo flange on the other shaft at 60" from mating surface of guibo flange to mating surface of diff CV. doesnt need to be precise as the rear CV has some play in it for adjustment. the 525 shaft is in good shape. will be swapping on a new CSB bearing and the rear CV. i will take measurements when i get the shaft back, so i can find out how long the front half is with the flange. it will make an easy job for others to do.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/sxracer001/touring%20swap/IMG_0131.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/sxracer001/touring%20swap/IMG_0130.jpg

[sfgearhead]

Stupid question, but couldn't you just pull the entire driveline (DS, diff, axles) and swap it over, instead of modifying the driveshaft?

[TGreene]

Stupid question, but couldn't you just pull the entire driveline (DS, diff, axles) and swap it over, instead of modifying the driveshaft?

I have thought the same thing, and if I were in his position I would rather deal with the driveshaft than deal with finding a large case LSD, and that is without even factoring in all of the added work of swapping out the rear subframe.

[AHenry014]

not a stupid question at all, as i didnt explain why i am doing this in the first place. i have the entire driveline from the 540 but it lacks the LSD factor, which i already retain in my medium case. my sedan had the LSD in it when i bought it (not factory, idk how it got there) and it turned out the diff was a direct swap to the wagon. swapped the diffs before i got rid of the sedan. its a 3.23, which a friend has with the same 4.0/6spd swap and its awesome. id hate to have to go find a LSD from a 750il. much harder to do, and awfully more expensive. the driveshaft place actaully called me today and its done! it was only 150 bucks to get done, and how he explained he'd have to do it...it seems much worth the price. economically and ease of swappage, it was a plus in both ways to just get the driveshaft modded. All you have to mod is the front half of the 530 shaft pretty much. i will get dimensions of the front half when i do the CSB. that way someone just needs a 540 flange for the guibo and a front half from a medium case car (assuming their all the same, 525 and 530 are) to get the mod done. and obvioulsy a driveshaft shop. RI driveshaft is where i took it.

[AHenry014]

driveshaft picked up and it looks good! 60" from End to End. my 230 dollar pelican order came in yesterday, and i picked up my e60 short shifter from the dealer (72 dollars and change btw, he hooks me up hah). ill have about 500 extra moneys into the car past the initial donor purchase. with parting it out, should be able to bring this swap down south of 500 bucks.

tonight is pedal box and getting little stuff out of the way with the help of my girlfriend.

[ShapeShifter]

Awesome, gonna make that a fun car.

[AHenry014]

thanks man, im pretty excited about it. ever since i drove mike day's car.....mmmm yummy. now all im worried about is the power steering. the PS didnt work in the donor, but im not sure the PO ever put fluid back in it after his "rebuild". i poured a little in to see if i could get any life and there was nothing. not sure if it was the pump or something else. i want to be rid of this chf11s fluid, its expensive! 20 bucks a liter/quart (cant remember). its only used bc of my traction pump....that also doesnt work right. so im kind of in a pickle with the PS.

[sfgearhead]

Just for the benefit of others, pulling the diff and reinstalling is not hard. The worst part is breaking loose the axle bolts. Penetrating oil in advance is recommended.

But regarding this swap, 3.23 LSD is gonna be fun, now I get it! I love the 3.15 in our 540it, and can only imagine what a 3.23 would be like. Wheee!

[AHenry014]

hehe!! i cant wait!!! and i agree, the diff swap isnt hard at all, its just tedious. as you have to undo all the driveshaft locknuts, then get in there and do 6-7mm allens on each side, then drop the heavy thing down....thats the easy part. gravity sucks! haha.

[AHenry014]

almost done! just need to put up the exhaust an a bunch of other odds and ends to get it done.

[WhoNew]

It think I speak for everyone when I say we need a video when you fire her up !!

[pennpen]

get er done

[AHenry014]

haha! i can take some videos. got her done around 3 today, took my time wrapping things up, fixing some other things, etc.

things i need to fix:
-water pump is noisy, but functions fine, someday will fix, probably when its due for a coolant flush
-clutch fan is not so happy either, maybe the extra one i have will work better
-i blew up the external coolant pump trying to bleed the system, need a new one of those one of these days
-for some reason now the dual climate has issues, maybe just air in there still..it does keep asking me for coolant, will add tomorrow
-trans program
-high idle, need to swap on the b30 one or clean the one on there. the cables arent jammed up or anything
-i tightened my steering box too much so now it doesnt center well :shrug:
-heavy foot >:-)

things a beast now. i took a carload of stuff plus 5 people out to eat and it still has balls to get up and go, even in 6th. i love the power, its fantastic. short shifter is SHORT. i installed the e60 545i guy and it is awesome! i wish it were a tad less short but maybe it just needs to break in. i installed the same shifter on my m50 car and it was an OK upgrade. now looking at the differences between the stock m50 ZF lever, the stock v8 lever, and the e60 lever.....i can tell why. also, the repurposed m50 B&B triflow i had on the b30 worked just fine on the 4L. no restriction issues that i can tell. i only had to jump the relay in the fuse box to get it started....i know theres another jump that AE did under the shifter, will look into it.

[sfgearhead]

Congrats! The other jumper near the shifter grounds out the trans program message.

Did you hook up the reverse lights?

Thrilled to hear there is another e34 540it/6 out there, nice work!

[84318i]

Good job man! I can't even begin to think about doing an auto to manual swap, nightmare!

Glad the dme worked for you :)

[Sam Son]

very sweet! congrats...I hope to check it out in person sometime..

[AHenry014]

Congrats! The other jumper near the shifter grounds out the trans program message.

Did you hook up the reverse lights?

Thrilled to hear there is another e34 540it/6 out there, nice work!

ahhh i figured thats what that was for. i want to delete the trans computer as well so ill need to do some research to figure that out.

thanks man!


Good job man! I can't even begin to think about doing an auto to manual swap, nightmare!

Glad the dme worked for you :)

worked fantastic, was going to send you a pm for thanks! honestly, the hardest part about the swap is making sure you have everything, installing the pedal box with that stupid shear bolt (which is now a slotted shear bolt lol), and getting the power steering hooked back up. well my power steering is funky with the trac pump and whatnot (which still doesnt work lol)


very sweet! congrats...I hope to check it out in person sometime..

hey the next show/g2g


i didnt take many pictures of the swap bc i was always dirty and busy, but ill try to get some videos up soon. i worked 14 hours on it saterday, then another 6 on sunday, along with about 4 on firday night. 24-26 hours spent....ugh i shoudlnt have added that up. :eyecrazy

[ShapeShifter]

Great!
Very rewarding Huh?

[sfgearhead]

ahhh i figured thats what that was for. i want to delete the trans computer as well so ill need to do some research to figure that out.

thanks man!

i didnt take many pictures of the swap bc i was always dirty and busy, but ill try to get some videos up soon. i worked 14 hours on it saterday, then another 6 on sunday, along with about 4 on firday night. 24-26 hours spent....ugh i shoudlnt have added that up. :eyecrazy

If you have ASC and want to keep it, leave the trans computer in place. I never found a workaround, and it only weighs .5 lb, so it's not a huge liability.

That's not bad. I did 4 hours alone for the pedal swap, then 3 6 hour days with 2 people. A couple hours less (but with 2 people), but not much!

[AHenry014]

well i left everything asc related, but it does not work unfortunately. i swapped the motor and the cable, even the module. still not working. idk lol

now it wont start, solidnoid clicks but no motor turn. i hope its just the cable connections being unclean, i can access the ground without lifting the car, so ill try that.

replaced starter with extra and the solinoid wouldnt transfer power to the motor. would plunge, no turn.

also fixed my esploded fan. yesterday the shroud lifted and contacted the fan and took a blade off, i snapped the rest off to not destroy the water pump. replaced with extra and is good to go. shroud secured now haha

"fixed" high idle issue. removed the ICV and it was chock full of crap. just swapped the b30 one on and it instantly dropped idle rpm, VERY low, like 4-500rpm. should idle around 600 so it dies every time i put the clutch in. i adjusted the throttle cable to keep it running at lights. i cant find the vac leak that it obvioulsy is telling me it has. maybe intake gaskets? im not sure.

[AHenry014]

idle has gotten better, still lumpy. looking for a vacuum leak. also thinking injectors are still kinda gunked up. need to find some cheap fuel injector cleaner to throw in it.

the loud waterpump is actually my alternator i think, or a pulley near it. i dunno! still functions fine.

and im SOL on both clutch fans haha. the second one is fine till its warm, then it locks up. just removed it and will be looking into an electric conversion.

some pictures to calm the natives. wheel are real staggered alpinas. 18x8 and 9/ 225/40/18. their a friends. he bought them for his e38 and told me the tires wouldnt fit (and arent worth anything), so use em up ;-). not sure i like em much on my car, cant wait till i get my staggered shnitzers on it.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/sxracer001/Touring/IMG_0143.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/sxracer001/Touring/IMG_0145.jpg

[mikeday1036]

sweeeeeeet!!! you know i have like 4 fan clutchs here right?

[SleazyV]

Damn, you don't waste time. That was quick!

I've been pecking away at my swap since about December, but I'll soon be joining the 540iT/6 club. I'm gonna start a thread when it's done, but here are a couple teaser shots.

BTW, what suspension are you running? The height is perfect.

[AHenry014]

sweeeeeeet!!! you know i have like 4 fan clutchs here right?

ohhhh really? lol i may have to come up and grab one one of these days hahaha


Damn, you don't waste time. That was quick!

I've been pecking away at my swap since about December, but I'll soon be joining the 540iT/6 club. I'm gonna start a thread when it's done, but here are a couple teaser shots.

BTW, what suspension are you running? The height is perfect.

get-r-done! i needed the car so i had to get it done over the weekend. the bugs im working out are just little disturbances :-)

suspension is h&r springs right off my 525 sedan. on billy sports in the rear and koni adjustables in the front. it sat lower in the front before the swap. not sure why other than trans weight, but i cant see it being that much heavier. i like the way it sits, these wheels makes it look like it has mad reverse rake haha

[AHenry014]

fan clutch installed, thanks mike!

bad idle im chalking up to a bad injector. my idle is super rough and can definitely tell its missing. feels like its got a large cam in it haha. i was nervous it was nik issues until the other night when CEL came on and injector#3 decided to chill out for about 30 seconds. hopefullya quick injector swap from the b30 will fix her right up.

[hmbalance]

fan clutch installed, thanks mike!

bad idle im chalking up to a bad injector. my idle is super rough and can definitely tell its missing. feels like its got a large cam in it haha. i was nervous it was nik issues until the other night when CEL came on and injector#3 decided to chill out for about 30 seconds. hopefullya quick injector swap from the b30 will fix her right up.

I'm not reading most of your replies, but is the motor from OBD2 car going on OBD1 DME? If so, make sure that your harmonic balancer is not shaking and has no outside ridges.

I worked on customers car who came with hesitation/misfire issues and shop that did a swap did not swap out harmonic balancers.

While teeth are the same, weight is not and they do cause funny issues with software from my hands on experience.

Next I wound check fuel pressure and residual pressure (51PSI/20 minutes 0.5 bar drop minimum, pressure must be maintaned as you rev up).

Do the compression check on all cylinders, measure coil resistance, check for hairline cracks on coils/boots, measure resistance on icv, crank/cam shaft. Try unplugging camshaft sensor and starting the car. Clean crank shaft sensor with electrical cleaner. Measure TPS and air intake sensor right next to it. Measure both sensors on the back on the manifold near DME service plug.

The little sensor within DME box is not important, simply controls the fan.

Get stenoscope and hear each fuel injector for bzzz sound.

Did you replace all knock sensors? A bad knock sensor will retard your timing. In some instanced for M60 bad engine mounts/harmonic balancer will set off invalid crank shaft signals/knock sensors.

Check and clean fuel/dme relays.

Make sure the ground strap from passenger front mount is properly secured and tightened. Make sure coils have straps on both sides that are cleaned and secured.

Despite what people say, a MAF cleaner will clean your BOSCH MAF, if you do not have BOSCH MAF but an Ebay one, those are no good.

If you used aftermarket/locally sourced bolts for PCV plate/throttle body mount make sure you used washers to distribute the force over gasket.

Make sure brake booster check valve is working properly, make sure charcoil canister is not leaking, you can by pass it completely and redirect it to the ground while gapping up
the nipple on the MAF.

Smoke test when in doubt.

The intake manifold has 8 runners, make sure they are inside and not missing/cracked. You will be running rich otherwise.

Make sure you did your timing right with a timing light.

I think I covered most of the problems, if you need DME/harness/parts/etc I have everything you can try it on and see if it fixed your issue.

Have fun, M60 is a fun motor.

[AHenry014]

thanks man, i have a feeling the injectors are just gummed up. the b30 ones are exactly the same so ill swap em over to see if that makes a difference as they ran perfectly fine on the other motor. if it doesnt ill try what you said! everything was obd1 when swapping, car was a 1995 and went into a 1994

ive cleaned the oem bosch maf.
ive used carb cleaner to try and find vac leaks, nothings apparent.
ground strap has been checked twice now

now the fun is changing the injectors, ugh. i dont think changing them is a bad idea as i got a code for injector 3. i have another set so it doesnt cost me anything but time. so ill do it before i go fishing more. also, its gotten a little better as im driving it so i have a feeling its clearing out, but now its kind of at a standstill about how it idles. hasent gotten better lately.

[AHenry014]

shapoopy. changed the injectors. not imediate improvement in idle like i hoped for. maybe it will get better. checked all the coils for correct resistence as well.

[sfgearhead]

smoke test?

I saw some dry ice at the store the other day and wondered if you could make a smoke machine with it. Throw the ice in a bag with water, and clamp it to the intake. Hope the Co2 pressurizes the intake enough to see a leak.

[attack eagle]

shapoopy. changed the injectors. not imediate improvement in idle like i hoped for. maybe it will get better. checked all the coils for correct resistence as well.


Rmember mr project running into a DME that wasn;t triggering a coil?

or was it moroza?

wonder if you ran into the same thing?

[RedTRex]

This may be adumb question but what air damn is that?




http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/sxracer001/Touring/IMG_0143.jpg



Here's mine - I am looking for a donor right now.....


http://usera.ImageCave.com/DigitalCerebrum/525it/525it_small.jpg

[AHenry014]

its gotten used to the injectors and the idle is better at times than it was before. it sure does run smoother.


smoke test?

I saw some dry ice at the store the other day and wondered if you could make a smoke machine with it. Throw the ice in a bag with water, and clamp it to the intake. Hope the Co2 pressurizes the intake enough to see a leak.

im been wondering how to do a 'home remedy' version of a smoke test. but i should get it smoked and see what comes of it. been up and around with carb cleaner to try and find the leak, but to no avail.


Rmember mr project running into a DME that wasn;t triggering a coil?

or was it moroza?

wonder if you ran into the same thing?

hmmmmm, possibly, but it runs perfect off of idle. i really hope its not a nikasil issue becuase it doesnt smoke at all like its getting blow by. and it sure does pull like a healthy b40


This may be adumb question but what air damn is that?





Here's mine - I am looking for a donor right now.....


http://usera.ImageCave.com/DigitalCerebrum/525it/525it_small.jpg

nice! its a volvo lip, have a search, theres a thread about em.

[shu328]

bumping for updates!

[AHenry014]

will get some up when i have more than a couple minutes to spend posting, but heres a quick update:
-compression test tells me why my idle sucks, low/spotty compression cyl 7, but all others are great. will look into this more, i think burnt valve maybe. easier than swapping the engine.
-my shnitzle reps went on, love them. the m60 has no issue lighting up 275's
-still looking for replacement body parts to fix my bent/broken ones i bought it with.
- beat on it at the autox, super fun, made good times actually, star specs FTW
-Finally, i LOVE having a touring. i can fit furniture inside. its been amazing moving with it

will post back up soon! thanks for the interest!

[AHenry014]

ok now that ive reread the page, heres some updates:
-bad idle hasnt gotten any better. had a friend take it to work wth him. ran GT1 on it with no faults. also smoke tested it with no leaks.
-swapped the b30 coilset i had on there just for shits, and did a compression test at the same time. big news! guess i found my crappy idle culprit. all comp was great except for cyl 7. Nik issue would most likely effect all cyl's, not just one, however its possible. need to rent a leakdown tester and give it a go. but i need a compressor for that, which at my new place i do not have
-will do another comp test soon with oil in the cyl to see if the numbers get better, because if they do its the rings and ill be looking for a new engne. otherwise its top end business and in that case ill be swapping on a different head.
-would hate to swap the engines because basically ill be starting over again, im loving how leak free this engine is.

otherwise the cars great. i can deal wiht the engne till i find a good low mileage one, or figure out for sure if its the head or not. the traction control works again! had a ton of crap in the back, and did a little drag from a light all by myself. pumped into second....my longtime lit trac lgiht started flashing and turned off...which it hasent done since i did the valve cover gaskets on the b30 in january. at first it was spotty workng and nonworking, but now it works great. i have NO clue why it started working again, but i love it.

another weird happening. recently cleaned the ICV and the it started stalling and whatnot. also developed a hesitation. got another ICV (thanks DUDMD!!!!) and tossed it on, no immediate change, hmmm. put the stock chip back in, had put in an autothority chip recently as well. idles now perfectly (well doesnt stall) with no hesitation. very odd. maybe reseting the DME did the trick, will try the autothority chip soon again.

[Elekta]

From my history reading about Niks, it's almost always 1 or 2 cyls that go bad.

Sorry to hear, but glad you're enjoying your tourer ntl

[AHenry014]

ah bummer. well i just went down there and redid the comp test for shits. and cyl 7 and 8 are both fine. it was hot as balls in the engine comp so i didnt get a chance to do the rest.

if compression is fine, is leakdown next? or should i be okay and start assuming other things. im tempted to get a set of design III's in there and see what happens.