petroleum, semi or synthetic?

[rennagata92]

first off please dont tell me to search. i want to know what peoples experiences and opinions currently are with engine oil because after all it is one of the most important things that goes in your car.

im going to do an oil change and im currently using 0w50 valvoline petroleum (the po told me to use this grade.)
i can hear the lifters ticking and the oil itself is leaking too. (i already changed the gaskets and everything is bolted down tight.)

ive heard synthetics are better for your engine and that you can do oil changes every 10k instead of 3k? is this true? ive heard people say do it every 3k anyway.

then ive also heard people say that synthetics are no good for certain engines and stuff like that.

discuss?

[mateo710]

generally you dont want to switch up oil types in an engine. ive heard its best to run the same type for the entire engines lifetime. now if you dont know what kind of oil is in it because the PO didnt say, then id figure just put in what you want.

unfortunately i dont feel i have enough expertise in this section to really give a good answer to your question

[rennagata92]

generally you dont want to switch up oil types in an engine. ive heard its best to run the same type for the entire engines lifetime. now if you dont know what kind of oil is in it because the PO didnt say, then id figure just put in what you want.

unfortunately i dont feel i have enough expertise in this section to really give a good answer to your question

ive heard that too. ive heard people say if you absolutely have a need to switch you should go to semi first then go all the way after that.

like i mentioned the oil leak is really bothering me. i thought either running heavier oil or a synthetic might help

anyway thanks for your input

[SawheadE34]

ive heard that too. ive heard people say if you absolutely have a need to switch you should go to semi first then go all the way after that.

like i mentioned the oil leak is really bothering me. i thought either running heavier oil or a synthetic might help

anyway thanks for your input

So you're saying gradually increase your protection to your engine? why not go with synthetic in the first place? Better temp ranges, longer life, less thermal break down. What more do you need? As for the viscosity I'd go with the factory recommendation.

[rennagata92]

So you're saying gradually increase your protection to your engine? why not go with synthetic in the first place? Better temp ranges, longer life, less thermal break down. What more do you need? As for the viscosity I'd go with the factory recommendation.

i heard its supposed to be so that the old oil that doesnt drain will mix better with the new oil or something like that. as for the oil i used i shoulda done research instead of just going with the po

[mikemxbike4]

0w 50 is a bit too thin if you live in Cali. Stick to 15w-40. Your lifters should be a bit quieter on startup. As far as leaks go, that is a real problem and trying to use different type or weight oil will only mask the problem

Main advantage of synthetic oil is possible longer intervals between oil changes. If you change your oil every 3k or so, mineral will do just fine. Most of the oils that are being marketed as synthetics like Mobil1, Castrol edge, etc. are not "true" synthetic oils anyways. They are group 3 oils.

I had good luck with Shell Rotella and Rotella T6 Diesel oils, both synthetic and mineral. It contains a good amount of antiwear additives and is fairly cheap.

[rennagata92]

0w 50 is a bit too thin if you live in Cali. Stick to 15w-40. Your lifters should be a bit quieter on startup. As far as leaks go, that is a real problem and trying to use different type or weight oil will only mask the problem

Main advantage of synthetic oil is possible longer intervals between oil changes. If you change your oil every 3k or so, mineral will do just fine. Most of the oils that are being marketed as synthetics like Mobil1, Castrol edge, etc. are not "true" synthetic oils anyways. They are group 3 oils.

I had good luck with Shell Rotella and Rotella T6 Diesel oils, both synthetic and mineral. It contains a good amount of antiwear additives and is fairly cheap.

yeah im gonna pick some oil up tomorrow but im definitely using heavier oil. just wondering but what do you mean by masking the problem?

i was thinking that the oil is so thin it seeps between the gasket and the valve cover onto the coilpacks

[mikemxbike4]

yeah im gonna pick some oil up tomorrow but im definitely using heavier oil. just wondering but what do you mean by masking the problem?

i was thinking that the oil is so thin it seeps between the gasket and the valve cover onto the coilpacks

I mean that if you have a leak somewhere, you should fix it by replacing a gasket/seal that is faulty. If you try to slow the leak down by using heavier oil, the problem will still exist even though it might not be apparent.

[rennagata92]

I mean that if you have a leak somewhere, you should fix it by replacing a gasket/seal that is faulty. If you try to slow the leak down by using heavier oil, the problem will still exist even though it might not be apparent.

I have replaced all my gaskets more then once and I made sure the valve covers tightened down real good. Also it's not a lot it's not a puddle or anything but enough to bother me

[AZChris]

I run Mobil 1 10w-40 high mileage, full synthetic.

Seems fine. Previous owner was running 5w-50 I think. Maybe it was 40, idk, I forgot.

The old owner lived in Southern California, I live in Arizona. :)

[mikemxbike4]

I run Mobil 1 10w-40 high mileage, full synthetic.

Seems fine. Previous owner was running 5w-50 I think. Maybe it was 40, idk, I forgot.

The old owner lived in Southern California, I live in Arizona. :)

I'm from Arizona too:buttrock

[rennagata92]

I run Mobil 1 10w-40 high mileage, full synthetic.

Seems fine. Previous owner was running 5w-50 I think. Maybe it was 40, idk, I forgot.

The old owner lived in Southern California, I live in Arizona. :)

540i's take 6 quarts right? How much does it cost you to do an oil change? I hear good things about mobil1.

[m60b40]

first off please dont tell me to search. i want to know what peoples experiences and opinions currently are with engine oil because after all it is one of the most important things that goes in your car.

im going to do an oil change and im currently using 0w50 valvoline petroleum (the po told me to use this grade.)
i can hear the lifters ticking and the oil itself is leaking too. (i already changed the gaskets and everything is bolted down tight.)

ive heard synthetics are better for your engine and that you can do oil changes every 10k instead of 3k? is this true? ive heard people say do it every 3k anyway.

then ive also heard people say that synthetics are no good for certain engines and stuff like that.

discuss?

Search.



generally you dont want to switch up oil types in an engine. ive heard its best to run the same type for the entire engines lifetime. now if you dont know what kind of oil is in it because the PO didnt say, then id figure just put in what you want.

unfortunately i dont feel i have enough expertise in this section to really give a good answer to your question

Total non-sense, you can switch oil types all you want just don't mix different oil types without draining previous oil and changing filters.

[m60b40]

540i's take 6 quarts right? How much does it cost you to do an oil change? I hear good things about mobil1.

No it does not, search and please stop asking dumb questions.

[auto da fe]

"im going to do an oil change and im currently using 0w50 valvoline petroleum (the po told me to use this grade.)
i can hear the lifters ticking and the oil itself is leaking too. (i already changed the gaskets and everything is bolted down tight.)"

Re-check your info. I don't believe a 0w-50 non synthetic motor oil even exists, or could exist. That kind of viscocity range would require a very expensive synthetic base stock. A google search comes up with only this product in that weight
http://www.eneos.us/product/2
and I don't think you'd want to use it in an old BMW.

[scoops]

i just did a change today, i went from red line, to lubromoly, to mobil one, to royal purple, and to syntec today, no obvious difference. all around the 5 w 30 range, u can switch fom any oil to any oil as long as u change it right, but if u have a leak do not just go to a semi just fix it, if u got a tick from ur valve train, synthetic will not make it quieter, it all depends on your winter rating and wut ur driving is like, ive run full syn for years and i still change every 3k. it never hurts. oil is important but ur filter is just as, if ur not running a top of the line filter then there is no sense in a top of the line oil. and 5 w 50? hmmmmmmm.....?.

[mbonder]

I have replaced all my gaskets more then once and I made sure the valve covers tightened down real good. Also it's not a lot it's not a puddle or anything but enough to bother me

When you say tightened down real good, do you mean to the specified torque specs?

If you over-tighten the valve cover you will get leaks just the same as under-tightening it. If you don't have one, invest in a torque wrench so that you take the guessing out of it.

[zubbie]

gee another oil thread.

These cars were made in the early 90's. Therefore they will work on any oil with the proper viscosity as specified by the manufacturer. synthetic not required although lasts longer.

synthetic causing leaks? urban myth

[Jungerishere]

How is 50 weight be tinner than 40 weight? 0w vs 15w means the flow weight when cold. Second value, 50 weight or 40 weight is the weight at operating engine temp. Lifters will tick if the oil is too thick, especially when cold.


0w 50 is a bit too thin if you live in Cali. Stick to 15w-40. Your lifters should be a bit quieter on startup. As far as leaks go, that is a real problem and trying to use different type or weight oil will only mask the problem

[ShapeShifter]

I use whatever is on sale. Regular old oil.

[mikemxbike4]

How is 50 weight be tinner than 40 weight? 0w vs 15w means the flow weight when cold. Second value, 50 weight or 40 weight is the weight at operating engine temp. Lifters will tick if the oil is too thick, especially when cold.

I know how to read oil weights and yes, 0w50 is thinner at startup than say 15w40.

As far as lifters go, thicker oil at startup will keep them quieter. Search tons of threads about this matter if you don't believe me.

[Jungerishere]

I have to disagree with you. I live in Chicago where we have seasons. I switch grade from summer to fall to winter. From my experience, thicker oil at startup causes more lifter noise than thinner. Reason why I switch grades by seasons.


I know how to read oil weights and yes, 0w50 is thinner at startup than say 15w40.

As far as lifters go, thicker oil at startup will keep them quieter. Search tons of threads about this matter if you don't believe me.

[mikemxbike4]

I have to disagree with you. I live in Chicago where we have seasons. I switch grade from summer to fall to winter. From my experience, thicker oil at startup causes more lifter noise than thinner. Reason why I switch grades by seasons.

Well, it has been proven over and over again that running oil with higher cold index can reduce lifter and Vanos noise in many cars. Many people have done it.

You are running thinner oil in the winter right?

[Jungerishere]

Yes. I'm running 5w-30 during winters. And 15w-50 during summers. 0w-40 during spring and fall. I don't have M30 but M50 (different engine so maybe different oil weight requirement?). I have own my E34 525i for almost 10 years and I'm very religious when it comes to fluid changes. She has 173k miles now and the engine still runs like it did when I purchase the car. I recently changed the valve cover gasket and looking under the valve covers, everything looked pristine.

And for OP. I'm not sure if using petroleum versus synthetic makes any difference under normal driving condition as long as you change the oil at regular bases. However, I have always used synthetic since day one because oil changes are cheap and I always want the best for my cars. :)


Well, it has been proven over and over again that running oil with higher cold index can reduce lifter and Vanos noise in many cars. Many people have done it.

You are running thinner oil in the winter right?

[AZChris]

540i's take 6 quarts right? How much does it cost you to do an oil change? I hear good things about mobil1.

The manual says 8. I usually put in 7 and add as needed.

I buy two one gallon jugs of Mobil 1 from Walmart. They're usually $25 each. Then a Wix filter at my local Autoparts store is around $10-$15.

So a little under $70.

[BoldUlysses]

I have to disagree with you. I live in Chicago where we have seasons. I switch grade from summer to fall to winter. From my experience, thicker oil at startup causes more lifter noise than thinner. Reason why I switch grades by seasons.

Depends when you're getting the lifter tick.

Lifter tick when cold can be helped by a thinner W weight oil, since it helps the oil get to all the galleries in the head more quickly.

Lifter tick when warm can be helped by a thicker "normal" weight, since the thicker oil will increase oil pressure at low engine speeds and help "pump up" the lifters even when the engine has been, say, idling for a while.

I run Mobil 1 5W-40 year-round. No complaints.

-Matt