ABS Sensor replaced, ABS light still on

[Camarok]

Alright folks, a few months back, I replaced the rear wheel bearings on my girlfriends car ( PITA btw ) and just now got around to putting the new abs sensors in, snow is part of the reason...

So, before removal of the old sensors months ago, everything was fine. I got 2 used sensors from a car with no ABS problems.

After installing the 2 new sensors ( rear fyi ) ABS and trac control light are still on, as well as the check engine light.

I found out that the CEL will be illuminated with abs / wheel speed sensors that are bad, they might trip the CEL... something to do with idk what but I found a thread on it.

SO.... new used abs sensors and still no lights off

My big question is, is there a like "break in" period or do I need to pull the battery off for a bit of time? I'm pretty sure that isn't the case but if there is let me know :shifty Thanks guys!

Then again, they could just be bad sensors.

[das borgen]

did you even diagnose before just slapping on new parts?

:facepalm:


you should ALWAYS diagnose before fixing...otherwise you're just wasting time and money

[wbarfels]

Be sure to test the relay as well....And Sometimes it takes awhile for the light to clear

[flyfishvt]

Ive never heard of the CEL light comming on because of the ABS. The ASC light will usually come on at the same time as the ABS light because the two systems are integrated into each other.

Is your CEL light on or is it the ASC light?

If its the ASC light and the ABS light then you most likely have a bad wheel speed sensor. The only way to tell is to have the codes read.

[unidos]

Bad pedal position sensor causes the asc and abs to come on. Scan it; clear the code then see if it comes back

[das borgen]

^ that's only part of the things that cause the light to come on

-pedal travel sensor (in the booster)
-bad ABS pump
-bad ASC actuator
-bad wheel speed sensors (cleaning them very rarely helps...when they fail, they fail)
-bad wiring (ABS relay included)
if you feel like diagnosing yourself
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=341672

it s not worth the time or effort...just pay a shop to read your fricking codes before you keep on blindly dumping money into a problem where you obviously are misinformed about its origin

[Camarok]

For some reason if you guys didn't know, you NEED to remove the rear ABS sensors if you are using the B90 tool to do the rear wheel bearings... should have mentioned that I guess sorry there.

To sum it up.... No lights on dash before taking the 2 rear abs sensors out..... after taking them out ABS ASC and CEL are on.... I can't seem to find the thread right not but I believe the OBD II systems read the speed of the car for emissions purposes.

I'm not blindly dumping money into the car, the simple question was that that if there was a break in or learning period at all.
I would like to think that replacing a part isn't considered blindly dumping money, and that said missing part is not a misinformation on my part. I appreciate the help Rich, not the assumptions of the situation. At this point, YES I will go to a shop, but what would the point be when removing the old sensors tripped the warning lights... wouldn't you have the same assumption that it's because of the missing sensors.... my simple question was if there was a break in period... you might have been obviously misinformed from my post so sorry about that, you seem very knowledgeable which is appreciated but it seems as though you only read part of my post.

[ConvGeorge]

There wasn't when I replaced a bad front sensor. ABS light would come on pretty quickly after the car started moving with the bad sensor, put in new sensor, ABS light didn't come on the next time I started the car.

[Camarok]

Sounds good, called my indy, he's going to clear the codes for me, might be the problem, otherwise we'll be going from there.

[gmercoleza]

Sounds good, called my indy, he's going to clear the codes for me, might be the problem, otherwise we'll be going from there.

Was this ever fixed? What was the solution?

[wbarfels]

Ive had this light come on, on both my cars. Both times I just took the wheels off, theirs usually a small hex bolt right next to the socket holding it in......took the ABS Sensor out (there's one for each wheel) and cleaned them with a metal brush and some carb cleaner. the ones on my 94 were so bad that you couldn't even tell the damn thing had teeth! Also I think you should probably unplug the battery while you do it.

Oh and if your car is a 98, you really should spring the $23 on ebay for one of those ELM 327 (or whatever) BLuetooh (Or USB if you dont have a smart phone) OBD2 plugs and put that into the port under your dash. That The app costs like $5 (Torque, but there is others) and use it to check and clear all your codes. It's not always going to tell you exacty whats wrong, but 90% of the time it will......And on a car that has so many Redundant systems it's a hell of allot easier then trial and error! Plus if your going to have it fixed by someone else, It will give you a much better bargaining position when you can tell the guy what you want fixed and how much..... IT sure beats asking how much, and having the guy say it depends on how it goes!

The same job for a mechanic can cost twice as much if his wife just bitched him out before work!

EDIT: Oh and the whole pumping the petal to get the codes thing rarely gives you ALL of the codes.......Torque will not only pull the codes, but It will tell you the meaning of the code and where it is coming from! not to mention clear it, and give you SRS codes and the like.