Vanos seals, Dme, maf, tps, cas, o2??? Any ideas???

[zajapoolala]

My 93 e36 has the m50tu single vanos engine in it. Ever since Iv owned it (about 4 months) it idols at 600 rpms. when taking off the engine has no power, kinda bogs out, and sounds like a diesel engine up to about 2500rpms then after 2500 it jolts the engine sounds clean and gains a whole lot of power. The car is drivable but about once a week it will bog out and just die on me, I turn it off and back on and it runs like usual again.

3 days ago It bogged out like it usually does once a week and died so I shut it off and turned it back on and it sounded like a diesel and wouldnt rev up so I shut it of and tryed it a few more times and she just wouldnt rev up past 600 rpms and was jerking and jumping so I shut it off

after starting it about 4-5times It finally would let me rev it up and drive but since then and for the last 3 days it has no power and sounds like a diesel all the time no matter what rpms no matter what speed it just runs like shit. Feels like its running on 3 cylinders.

When I unplug the maf nothing really changes. When I unplug the Tps nothing really happens eccept it idols 200rpms higher. I also Unplugged the vanos solinoid and nothing happens. seems like the DME is in limbo or something.

I have tested all spark plugs, coils, and put Heet in the gas tank incase of vapor lock. also maf has been replaced 4 months ago.

its my daily driver and I need it for work!
Any Ideas!?

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[IanPaul]

git r dun

[hsp]

especially if somebody has chipped or put the stock chip back in the car before selling and not seated it properly, this could be a problem causing the intermittent behavior (bit of a long shot). replacing the DME relay is a excellent idea; white one, works hard. idle control valve could use a good cleaning. it is a housed cylinder that opens up for air; typical case for cleaning is surging at idle. if this stuff does'nt work (which is good maintainence anyway), bring to a shop for diagnostic.
harry

[capebmw]

Wow, that really sucks. I can't believe how many of these cars have these symptoms. If I was you, I would start with the basics. Fuel pressure check, vacuum check, etc. Not to be discouraging, but I have done all of that and still have a stall, no run problem. Have already spent $500+ at various repair shops and have gotten no where. I will figure it out myself.

[flyfishvt]

My 93 e36 has the m50tu single vanos engine in it. Ever since Iv owned it (about 4 months) it idols at 600 rpms. when taking off the engine has no power, kinda bogs out, and sounds like a diesel engine up to about 2500rpms then after 2500 it jolts the engine sounds clean and gains a whole lot of power. The car is drivable but about once a week it will bog out and just die on me, I turn it off and back on and it runs like usual again.

3 days ago It bogged out like it usually does once a week and died so I shut it off and turned it back on and it sounded like a diesel and wouldnt rev up so I shut it of and tryed it a few more times and she just wouldnt rev up past 600 rpms and was jerking and jumping so I shut it off

after starting it about 4-5times It finally would let me rev it up and drive but since then and for the last 3 days it has no power and sounds like a diesel all the time no matter what rpms no matter what speed it just runs like shit. Feels like its running on 3 cylinders.

When I unplug the maf nothing really changes. When I unplug the Tps nothing really happens eccept it idols 200rpms higher. I also Unplugged the vanos solinoid and nothing happens. seems like the DME is in limbo or something.

I have tested all spark plugs, coils, and put Heet in the gas tank incase of vapor lock. also maf has been replaced 4 months ago.

its my daily driver and I need it for work!
Any Ideas!?

http://images.bimmerforums.com/vb3images/misc/progress.gif http://images.bimmerforums.com/vb3images/buttons/edit.gif (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/editpost.php?do=editpost&p=21217626)

My first thought was your vanos is stuck. I experienced the same surge at 2500 rpm and the car did bog a little bit. I experienced another surge at about 3500 rpm. It makes sense that your car would bog real bad if your vanos is stuck since it wouldn't allow the intake cam to return to its proper position. I plan on rebuilding mine in the spring but in the mean time I got excellent results using 1/3 can of seafoam in the oil. Just pour 1/3 can into the oil and run it for 10-20 miles then change the oil.

I question the part about the TPS test you did. When I unplug my TPS the car completely stall out. You might want to take another look at that too.

[Kev42]

I've been going through a very similar thing.
So far I have changed:
TPS, Temp sensor, O2 sensor, vacuum hoses, cleaned MAF etc etc.
In approx 9 days I will install my new Vanos that I received from Dr Vanos. If that cures my problem I'll let you know.

Cheers

[zajapoolala]

Thanks everyone for the feedback. Kev42 Im really interested in if that works please let me know.

I have tested all vaccum the coils r getting .7 ohm across the board compression test passed straight across the board and all injectors are shooting nice and even, new spark plugs new maf, new throttle body, and new tps. before all this happened when I unplugged my tps or maf the engine would stall right out but now it doesn't seem to matter

So I did some research of my own and this is what I came up with. tell me if anyone agrees. So if the seals are bad inside your vanos you typically will hear a rattle in the front of the engine (like marbles in a can) because one of the main reasons your seals blow in your vanos is because the bolts for your vanos work themselves loose over time causing a rattle and blowout of your seals.

If you don't have a rattle and you suspect your vanos is still the problem it could be your vanos solinoid. If your solinoid fails it will not be sending any signals back to your DME witch will retard your DME. When your system retards basically all your electronics don't work like your maf, o2, tps ect, witch would explain why when I unplug the maf and tps nothing happens (no signal to them because DME is not working correctly because it is confused). Also to test if your vanos solinoid is working and doing its job you unplug the vanos solinoid and your car is suppose to die. when I unplugged mine nothing happened meaning it has no power and isn't doing its job in the first place.

If your DME is not working correctly your fuel/air ratio will be way off. (I get horrible gas millage and smells strong with fuel)
So vanos solinoid failed causing the DME to retard causing all signals to other electronics controlled by DME to fail and/or not signal right. Thus making my air/fuel mixture way off making it run like shit. Replace the vanos solinoid reset the car so the vanos Starts sending signals to the DME again, DME comes out of limbo and starts sending signals to all other electronics thus making the air/fuel ratios back on key. yea? no? Maybe?

Well I ordered the new solenoid will be here in 4-7 days so Ill keep posted on how it works out.

[Kev42]

Well, zajapoolala, I can't be 100% sure I've had a win.
Long story short the acceleration now seems smoother however I also now have a rattle under the bonnet that I didn't previously have.

It sounds more like pinging under load however the knock sensors are brand new and there are no error codes at at atll.

I'll poke around this weekend. Sorry mate, I know that doesn't help much.

[capebmw]

I have my VANOS parts on the way, plan on doing it this weekend. I will report back and let everyone know. Let's keep our fingers crossed.

[Kev42]

Awesome, I hope it works out!
I'm looking forward to the results

[LUCKY7SEVEN]

I've been having similar issues. Looking forward to seeing if the vanos solenoid changes anything. That and the DME are the only things I haven't replaced.

[patrick325]

Thanks everyone for the feedback. Kev42 Im really interested in if that works please let me know.

I have tested all vaccum the coils r getting .7 ohm across the board compression test passed straight across the board and all injectors are shooting nice and even, new spark plugs new maf, new throttle body, and new tps. before all this happened when I unplugged my tps or maf the engine would stall right out but now it doesn't seem to matter

So I did some research of my own and this is what I came up with. tell me if anyone agrees. So if the seals are bad inside your vanos you typically will hear a rattle in the front of the engine (like marbles in a can) because one of the main reasons your seals blow in your vanos is because the bolts for your vanos work themselves loose over time causing a rattle and blowout of your seals.

If you don't have a rattle and you suspect your vanos is still the problem it could be your vanos solinoid. If your solinoid fails it will not be sending any signals back to your DME witch will retard your DME. When your system retards basically all your electronics don't work like your maf, o2, tps ect, witch would explain why when I unplug the maf and tps nothing happens (no signal to them because DME is not working correctly because it is confused). Also to test if your vanos solinoid is working and doing its job you unplug the vanos solinoid and your car is suppose to die. when I unplugged mine nothing happened meaning it has no power and isn't doing its job in the first place.

If your DME is not working correctly your fuel/air ratio will be way off. (I get horrible gas millage and smells strong with fuel)
So vanos solinoid failed causing the DME to retard causing all signals to other electronics controlled by DME to fail and/or not signal right. Thus making my air/fuel mixture way off making it run like shit. Replace the vanos solinoid reset the car so the vanos Starts sending signals to the DME again, DME comes out of limbo and starts sending signals to all other electronics thus making the air/fuel ratios back on key. yea? no? Maybe?

Well I ordered the new solenoid will be here in 4-7 days so Ill keep posted on how it works out.

anxious to hear about how it works out zajapoolala...