List of all that's wrong with my car

[Gator325525]

Ok, so the thieves, er, I mean, indy techs did an inspection of my car and here is all they found wrong with it:

Power steering leak from hoses to reservoir
Oil leaking from oil filter housing gasket
Control arms and bushings need replacing
All 4 shocks are worn out
Drive shaft flex discs wearing
Rear transmission output shaft seal leaking
Rear differential mounts weak
Rear axle boots leaking

In what order should I go about attacking these issues? I've already sunk way more into the car than what it is worth so I might as well keep going. Reminds me of that old saying there's nothing more expensive than a cheap BMW. Well I paid $500 for my car and have already dropped about $3,000 into it.

[Supra330Xi]

are u doing the work yourself or are you taking it to the shop to get fixed?

[Sam Son]

you paid 500 bucks for a car and are complaining it has some issues? Fix the leaks first then the flex disc then shocks then control arms

[Gator325525]

Taking it in, but not necessarily to the shop that did the diagnosis. They aren't a whole lot cheaper than the dealer. I have to find a different indy shop to do it.

[jehu]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Me-bJvUbjo

[Gator325525]

you paid 500 bucks for a car and are complaining it has some issues? Fix the leaks first then the flex disc then shocks then control arms

Where am I complaining? Read much? I'm just stating facts, friend, and asking for some advice about where to start.

[93G34]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Me-bJvUbjo


whoa:eyecrazy

[Gator325525]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_me-bjvubjo

never!!!

[SawheadE34]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Me-bJvUbjo

hungry hungry hippo?

[HE53]

It had a little trouble with the differential.

[e34Croak]

Ok, so the thieves, er, I mean, indy techs did an inspection of my car and here is all they found wrong with it:

Power steering leak from hoses to reservoir
Oil leaking from oil filter housing gasket
Control arms and bushings need replacing
All 4 shocks are worn out
Drive shaft flex discs wearing
Rear transmission output shaft seal leaking
Rear differential mounts weak
Rear axle boots leaking

In what order should I go about attacking these issues? I've already sunk way more into the car than what it is worth so I might as well keep going. Reminds me of that old saying there's nothing more expensive than a cheap BMW. Well I paid $500 for my car and have already dropped about $3,000 into it. :eek:
Clearly you missed the receipt thread I started recently..
Welcome to the season of the sicc.
As Sam Son stated, i'd recommend tackling the leaks first of all since they're the easiest and typically the cheapest. Then i'd say do the guibo and output shaft seal, followed by various mounts etc.

[Gator325525]

:eek:
Cleraly you missed the receipt thread I started recently..
Welcome to the season of the sicc.
As Sam Son stated, i'd recommend tackling the leaks first of all since they're the easiest and typically the cheapest. Then i'd say do the guibo and output shaft seal, followed by various mounts etc.

To the contrary, Croak, I recall your thread quite well. I'm too lazy to dig out my receipts and post them but in the 7 months I've owned the car I'm already in for about $3,000. There's a reason I got the car so cheap, it was in horrid condition.

I've already replaced the following:

Transmission mounts
Battery
Passenger side foglight
Sunroof switch panel
Belts
Alternator cooling hose
Tires (2x)
Tie-Rods
Fan Clutch
Steering Center Link
Brake Light Switch
Oil Drain Plug
Entire Exhaust System
Brake Pad Sensor
Voltage Regulator
Air Mass Meter Boot
Idle Control Valve

The repairs I mentioned in my original post will probably be around $3-$4K more than likely, plus there are several interior and exterior cosmetic issues that will require additional money. I find myself in a position in which I've come too far to turn back now so I might as well try to restore the old girl to as close as her original glory as I can.

[thomas824]

you paid 500 bucks for a car and are complaining it has some issues? Fix the leaks first then the flex disc then shocks then control arms

+1


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Me-bJvUbjo

I noticed the non BMW was eaten much faster than the BMW.

[TexFinn]

Taking it in

I guess we could modify the saying you referred to "There's nothing more expensive than a cheap BMW, especially if you pay somebody else to work on it.". :shifty

Would be a really good time to start working on the car yourself. Could save a bunch of $$$, you know. ;)

[HlyDvlz1989]

I guess we could modify the saying you referred to "There's nothing more expensive than a cheap BMW, especially if you pay somebody else to work on it.". :shifty

Would be a really good time to start working on the car yourself. Could save a bunch of $$$, you know. ;)

:buttrock too badd its 10 degrees out :redspot

[cmgreensr]

:buttrock too badd its 10 degrees out :redspot

That's why alot of projects get put off till spring.

[jfj707]

To the contrary, Croak, I recall your thread quite well. I'm too lazy to dig out my receipts and post them but in the 7 months I've owned the car I'm already in for about $3,000. There's a reason I got the car so cheap, it was in horrid condition.

I've already replaced the following:

Transmission mounts
Battery
Passenger side foglight
Sunroof switch panel
Belts
Alternator cooling hose
Tires (2x)
Tie-Rods
Fan Clutch
Steering Center Link
Brake Light Switch
Oil Drain Plug
Entire Exhaust System
Brake Pad Sensor
Voltage Regulator
Air Mass Meter Boot
Idle Control Valve

The repairs I mentioned in my original post will probably be around $3-$4K more than likely, plus there are several interior and exterior cosmetic issues that will require additional money. I find myself in a position in which I've come too far to turn back now so I might as well try to restore the old girl to as close as her original glory as I can.

Are you familiar with the sunk cost fallacy?

Either - money is not an object, and you just really love the car, or,
You feel like you have too much invested to walk away now.

If you don't work on the car yourself, it is going to be (and already has been) a money pit. From a financial perspective, you should sell and get another one in better condition, because a decent E34 can easily be had for what you are STILL needing to spend on the vehicle. What you have paid for work thus far, and even the original purchase price of the car have NO bearing whatsoever on the value of the vehicle. If the car isn't worth putting $3K-4K more into it, walk away.

Or learn the work yourself if you want to keep it but cost is important. There are many here that would be happy to help.

[HE53]

The 540 needs
upper control arm bushings... Thinking about the Mooseheads..
windshield
two new window regulators
could really use some coilovers, but doesn't need them.

Other than that, that old girl is top notch.


The 525 needs...
some interior trim pieces
subframe bushings (I have, too lazy to put them in)
front steering stuff (I have, too lazy to put them in)
new black swede headliner (I have, too lazy to put them in)
cold air problem with the passenger vents and console
Motor swap (I have, too lazy to put them in)

I guess I should be out in the garage instead of hanging out in my warm office.

[TexFinn]

:buttrock too badd its 10 degrees out :redspot

:D

[curbsideprophet]

if you did the work yourself all of that stuff would've just cost a few hundred bucks. most of that stuff won't add much value to your car, either. it's still not worth much with what's wrong with it.

[ElleShooTiger]

Ok, so the thieves, er, I mean, indy techs did an inspection of my car and here is all they found wrong with it:

Well I paid $500 for my car and have already dropped about $3,000 into it.

Hahaha you buy a crappy car and call people thieves when they tell you the obvious?? :confused:rolleyes Genius! Did you expect these items to be like-new? The majority of techs dont try to rip people off, its just that these items do need to be taken care of and most people think they're cars are just fine, until they wind up on the side of the road.....

If you dont know how to work on cars, you might as well just buy a new car, maintenance in shops or car payments will run you about the same lol.

[Gator325525]

Are you familiar with the sunk cost fallacy?

Either - money is not an object, and you just really love the car, or,
You feel like you have too much invested to walk away now.

If you don't work on the car yourself, it is going to be (and already has been) a money pit. From a financial perspective, you should sell and get another one in better condition, because a decent E34 can easily be had for what you are STILL needing to spend on the vehicle. What you have paid for work thus far, and even the original purchase price of the car have NO bearing whatsoever on the value of the vehicle. If the car isn't worth putting $3K-4K more into it, walk away.

Or learn the work yourself if you want to keep it but cost is important. There are many here that would be happy to help.

I am very much aware of the sunk cost fallacy and I agree with the general principle behind it. I know the car is a money pit. Of course, ANY E34, by its very nature of being at least 16 years old, is going to cost money to maintain.

Maybe I'm wrong, but my thinking is that if I have to put 3 or 4k more into the car then that's the same amount of money I'd spend on an E34 in pretty good condition. Well, by the time I've spent the 3 or 4k on my car it too will be in pretty good condition, but most importantly I'll know exactly what has been done to it and when it was done.

We drive E34s because we love them, not necessarily because they make good financial sense. I knew what I was getting myself into when I bought a $500 car. I knew it had issues so I'm not complaining. I do think that the evil you know is better than the evil you don't know, which is why I'm not gung ho about going after another car. Also, unlike a monthly car note I can space these repairs out for when it's most convenient to do so.

As for learning to work on the car, that's just not feasible for me right now. Don't have garage, tools or time to do it. I appreciate all the constructive feedback, keep it coming.

[curbsideprophet]

Power steering leak from hoses to reservoir - mine does this, too. haven't even taken a look at it because it's ridiculously cold, but shouldn't be much more difficult than tightening the clamp i assume. if there's a crack in the reservoir then you'll need a new one, but this should be a very easy fix and can be put off as long as you don't mind some atf in your engine bay and topping it off every few months

Oil leaking from oil filter housing gasket - just pick up a new gasket and do it at the next oil change. also very easy and cheap.

Control arms and bushings need replacing - makes driving not fun. take care of this when you can because as these wear, it will cause more wear on other suspension components. probably won't be cheap though.

All 4 shocks are worn out - also makes driving not fun, not imperative though. i'd put this off more for last.

Drive shaft flex discs wearing - guibo? mine is toast too. from what i understand, it's for vibration purposes mostly. i don't THINK it's absolutely necessary to replace it right away, someone correct me if i'm wrong, but you'll have a click from there when you're driving. i would assume do this when your output shaft seal is done, so it might be sooner rather than later.

Rear transmission output shaft seal leaking - this is probably the one i would be most concerned about. i would probably do this first.

Rear differential mounts weak - are they about to break? definitely don't want them breaking, but i would assume you can skate by with driving soft for a while until you can get this taken care of.

Rear axle boots leaking - another one i would take care of sooner rather than later.


most of it isn't too bad. output shaft seal and rear axle boots i would take care of first probably, as well as the guibo since you're there. PS and oil canister gasket should be cheap and easy, take care of those next. depending on condition of diff mounts, either those or control arms. last would be shocks.

[Kashmirbeige525]

a lot more than i'm willing to sit down to write.

[e34Croak]

a lot more than i'm willing to sit down to write.
I believe OP is referring the the list of everything that is wrong with his car, hence the thread title..
Why is this more than you are willing to sit down and write? :confused

[Gator325525]

Power steering leak from hoses to reservoir - mine does this, too. haven't even taken a look at it because it's ridiculously cold, but shouldn't be much more difficult than tightening the clamp i assume. if there's a crack in the reservoir then you'll need a new one, but this should be a very easy fix and can be put off as long as you don't mind some atf in your engine bay and topping it off every few months

Oil leaking from oil filter housing gasket - just pick up a new gasket and do it at the next oil change. also very easy and cheap.

Control arms and bushings need replacing - makes driving not fun. take care of this when you can because as these wear, it will cause more wear on other suspension components. probably won't be cheap though.

All 4 shocks are worn out - also makes driving not fun, not imperative though. i'd put this off more for last.

Drive shaft flex discs wearing - guibo? mine is toast too. from what i understand, it's for vibration purposes mostly. i don't THINK it's absolutely necessary to replace it right away, someone correct me if i'm wrong, but you'll have a click from there when you're driving. i would assume do this when your output shaft seal is done, so it might be sooner rather than later.

Rear transmission output shaft seal leaking - this is probably the one i would be most concerned about. i would probably do this first.

Rear differential mounts weak - are they about to break? definitely don't want them breaking, but i would assume you can skate by with driving soft for a while until you can get this taken care of.

Rear axle boots leaking - another one i would take care of sooner rather than later.


most of it isn't too bad. output shaft seal and rear axle boots i would take care of first probably, as well as the guibo since you're there. PS and oil canister gasket should be cheap and easy, take care of those next. depending on condition of diff mounts, either those or control arms. last would be shocks.

CSP, thanks for dropping the knowledge. It's much appreciated. The shop recommended taking care of the leaks first but they then fall in line with the order of your recommendations.

I really want to do the CAB and shocks first because you're right on about how the car handles, it is a slop machine. But you're right I probably need to get the critical mechanical components done first before addressing handling issues.