Akg Motor/Tranny Mounts vs. Rogue engineering Tranny and OEM Motor

[Calidownhiller]

With my Christmas money Im going to finally refresh my drivetrain mounting. I live in California so the roads suck ass, but I also drive my car pretty hard and plan to do some Auto X and HPDE events in the near future. My tranny mounts are ripped and motors mounts flattened. I get a TON of movement if I let the clutch out too fast.

I can get the AKG 80a motor and Tranny mounts for about $200 shipped and then diff mounts and tranny and diff fluid for a little over $100. My question is, should I save some money and go with the rogue engineering mounts and OEM engine mounts instead. Are the Rogue mounts as good as they say since they dont have a bolt through and they dont use reinforcement cups. Or are the AKG mounts so superior that I should just pay the extra $30-40 and get them.

I really need some advice. I am slowly bringing my car back to life at almost 160k. I've got a lot to do but I want to make sure I do it right the first time as I am paying my way through UTI and all my living expenses on $9.00 an hour at Mercedes of Sac.

Thanks in advance :)

[Herb]

If you need to have money left over for other maint. issues, you can't go wrong with oem for dd/autox/track. But in my opinion the AKG (or another bolt-through design) are the best.

[Calidownhiller]

If you need to have money left over for other maint. issues, you can't go wrong with oem for dd/autox/track. But in my opinion the AKG (or another bolt-through design) are the best.

So the bolt through designs are good? Rogue Engineering says that bolt through is worse, but I couldn't see how. It seems like not bolt through would just rip?!

[armorrig]

The UUC is not bolt-through also. When I was replacing it because I noticed that the poly had a tear on the top of one of the mounts, the top stud was completely torn away from the bushing.

[esp42089]

I would recommend OEM if your roads suck. I made the mistake of going poly for a DD, and a year later put new OEM back in.

Poly takes a while to catch up to you; I found after about 9 months my car was starting to sound and feel 20 years older than it was. All sorts of rattles and electrical issues arising from the increased vibrations. If you want your M3 to last, and feel new and solid for years to come, get OEM, and only OEM.

For a double duty car, just go OEM and replace them on regular intervals. OEM is actually very durable, especially under stock power. Replace them when you start to feel movement. If this is a dedicated fun/track duty car, then get the hardest poly you can because the actual mileage you put on the car is lower, so all the stuff I mentioned above doesn't become apparent for a long time.