blitz355
11-19-2010, 12:13 PM
Being around BFC for awhile I know that many many members think that racks on a bimmer is something that should never be done. I respectfully disagree. Functionality is important to many. :cool
In this mini write up I will show you the things I used to make my wooden rack. So far I have carried wheels/tires/mountain bike/wood on the rack and it is handy. I'd image the snow freaks could use this for snowboards very easily. :redspot
Supplies/Machines used:
Planer
Jointer
Miter Saw/Radial Arm (you could get away with a circ saw, but it will take longer)
Table Saw
Electric Drill
Palm Sander
MinWax Polyurethane
Deck Screws (any screws really)
Stain (optional)
U-Bolts
I may be missing a few things but, I'm sure you can all figure it out ;)
I'll apologize right now, I didn't document the whole process. Didn't think I would get so much interest. I only have after pictures.
For this project I used Red Oak ( I think I ordered ~15 board feet, I had a decent bit left over so use your own judgement). You can use any other wood you want, Id strongly advise against softwoods though.
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af178/Maverick--/6.jpg
There are 14 slats total. Each 2 inches wide.
So, if you want your rack to taper like mine you will have 7 pairs. The longest pair on my rack measures 40.5 inches long, and the following smaller pairs are 1/4 of an inch smaller than the one before.
Holding together the slats are two runners that go on either side of the roof rack rail:
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af178/Maverick--/wood%20rack/PB180050.jpg
These runners are 41 inches long (the whole rack is 41inches wide)
Between each slat is 1 inch of space. I cut up two one inch blocks of wood to use as spacers while screwing them all together.
Finishing:
I sanded all of my pieces in this increment of sandpaper: 80, 100, 150 (if you are really going for it go to 220).
I opted to use some stain on my pieces for a nice color. (I cant reveal my secret blend for the color i have though, so go get your own!) Lowes and Home Depot has a great selection of stains, experiment on your scrap wood to achieve desired color.
After the stain is all dried up (assuming that you did stain the wood) its time for some protective clear coat. I would strongly recommend using polyurethane because it is strong and easy to apply. Just follow the instructions and you should turn out with a great end result. This is what I used:
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af178/Maverick--/wood%20rack/PB180046.jpg
I applied 3 coats with this:
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af178/Maverick--/wood%20rack/PB180055.jpg
Thats a foam brush if you cant tell. Pay careful atteniton to the width of the brush in the picture. 2 inches. I craftily made each slat 2 inches as well. On purpose. :shifty
Assembly:
Now that all your protective finish is on and dried you are ready for assembly. Now, at this point I could tell you exactly how i aligned everything to keep it all straight and square.
but.
I can't.
It is difficult to explain without the pictures that i did not take during the process. :( It really isn't that tricky, just think about it, and keep in mind where the runners are going to go, so the rail runs between them.
I'm sure everyone will be able to figure it out with alittle thought. I don't know about Coco though, hes hopeless. (he will probably never do this DIY though lol) :devillook
While screwing them all together don't forget to drill pilot holes, so the wood doesn't split. If you do not know what that is, google it. :D
I'd also counter sink the screws as well.
I would recommend that you start by attaching a slat on each end to give yourself a frame (more stable). As you go along make sure that after the holes for each slat are made, attach them as you go that way you do not run into alignment issues by putting them all on at the last minute
After the first few slats you will have a system down and its just cruising after that. (it may be handy to have two drills: one equipped with the pilot hole drill bit, and the other with the screw attachment {philips, square thing, or hex bit} it makes things so much easier)
After assembly take her out to the car and set it up there to see if you will need any modifications.
If all is well you are ready for mounting.
I used U-Bolts from lowes and little blocks of wood so the rail wouldn't get deformed. Turns out I needed these blocks anyway because without them there wouldn't be any threads to tighten the rack down enough. You do not have to crank these things down too much. Mine is attached very firmly.
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af178/Maverick--/wood%20rack/PB180051.jpg
I may add to this thread some more details over the next few days or weeks.
and if you were wondering I have not noticed any increase of wind noise compared to just having the load bars on. But if you have the sunroof open, forget it.
Anyhow, I put this up for the people who expressed interest. Not to ask how good/bad it looks. So move along to another thread with your negativity, unless you have a witty comment. I enjoy those :D
Enjoy. :alright
In this mini write up I will show you the things I used to make my wooden rack. So far I have carried wheels/tires/mountain bike/wood on the rack and it is handy. I'd image the snow freaks could use this for snowboards very easily. :redspot
Supplies/Machines used:
Planer
Jointer
Miter Saw/Radial Arm (you could get away with a circ saw, but it will take longer)
Table Saw
Electric Drill
Palm Sander
MinWax Polyurethane
Deck Screws (any screws really)
Stain (optional)
U-Bolts
I may be missing a few things but, I'm sure you can all figure it out ;)
I'll apologize right now, I didn't document the whole process. Didn't think I would get so much interest. I only have after pictures.
For this project I used Red Oak ( I think I ordered ~15 board feet, I had a decent bit left over so use your own judgement). You can use any other wood you want, Id strongly advise against softwoods though.
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af178/Maverick--/6.jpg
There are 14 slats total. Each 2 inches wide.
So, if you want your rack to taper like mine you will have 7 pairs. The longest pair on my rack measures 40.5 inches long, and the following smaller pairs are 1/4 of an inch smaller than the one before.
Holding together the slats are two runners that go on either side of the roof rack rail:
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af178/Maverick--/wood%20rack/PB180050.jpg
These runners are 41 inches long (the whole rack is 41inches wide)
Between each slat is 1 inch of space. I cut up two one inch blocks of wood to use as spacers while screwing them all together.
Finishing:
I sanded all of my pieces in this increment of sandpaper: 80, 100, 150 (if you are really going for it go to 220).
I opted to use some stain on my pieces for a nice color. (I cant reveal my secret blend for the color i have though, so go get your own!) Lowes and Home Depot has a great selection of stains, experiment on your scrap wood to achieve desired color.
After the stain is all dried up (assuming that you did stain the wood) its time for some protective clear coat. I would strongly recommend using polyurethane because it is strong and easy to apply. Just follow the instructions and you should turn out with a great end result. This is what I used:
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af178/Maverick--/wood%20rack/PB180046.jpg
I applied 3 coats with this:
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af178/Maverick--/wood%20rack/PB180055.jpg
Thats a foam brush if you cant tell. Pay careful atteniton to the width of the brush in the picture. 2 inches. I craftily made each slat 2 inches as well. On purpose. :shifty
Assembly:
Now that all your protective finish is on and dried you are ready for assembly. Now, at this point I could tell you exactly how i aligned everything to keep it all straight and square.
but.
I can't.
It is difficult to explain without the pictures that i did not take during the process. :( It really isn't that tricky, just think about it, and keep in mind where the runners are going to go, so the rail runs between them.
I'm sure everyone will be able to figure it out with alittle thought. I don't know about Coco though, hes hopeless. (he will probably never do this DIY though lol) :devillook
While screwing them all together don't forget to drill pilot holes, so the wood doesn't split. If you do not know what that is, google it. :D
I'd also counter sink the screws as well.
I would recommend that you start by attaching a slat on each end to give yourself a frame (more stable). As you go along make sure that after the holes for each slat are made, attach them as you go that way you do not run into alignment issues by putting them all on at the last minute
After the first few slats you will have a system down and its just cruising after that. (it may be handy to have two drills: one equipped with the pilot hole drill bit, and the other with the screw attachment {philips, square thing, or hex bit} it makes things so much easier)
After assembly take her out to the car and set it up there to see if you will need any modifications.
If all is well you are ready for mounting.
I used U-Bolts from lowes and little blocks of wood so the rail wouldn't get deformed. Turns out I needed these blocks anyway because without them there wouldn't be any threads to tighten the rack down enough. You do not have to crank these things down too much. Mine is attached very firmly.
http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af178/Maverick--/wood%20rack/PB180051.jpg
I may add to this thread some more details over the next few days or weeks.
and if you were wondering I have not noticed any increase of wind noise compared to just having the load bars on. But if you have the sunroof open, forget it.
Anyhow, I put this up for the people who expressed interest. Not to ask how good/bad it looks. So move along to another thread with your negativity, unless you have a witty comment. I enjoy those :D
Enjoy. :alright