New Project 95 M3 - Let's get started..

[doofoo]

So I just picked up a 95 M3 this past weekend. I will follow all the fixes and upgrades in this thread.

Just to cover what has already been done below:

Already Done, last 5-10k by PO:

Cooling System:
- Radiator
- Thermostat
- Upper and Lower Hoses
- Fan & Fan Clutch

A/C system:
- New A/C Condenser*
- New Receiver and Dryer

Lighting:
- Depo Projector Headlamps with Angel Eyes
- OE Amber Front Signals, Clear Side Markers, OE Amber Rear
- ZKW Fogs*

Suspension:*
- Bilstein Sport Shocks
- H&R Race Springs
- Solid Anodized Metal Sway Bar Drop Links
- New Lower Control Arms and OE Bushings
- New Inner and Outer*Tie*Rods*
- New Sway Bar Bushings and Mounts
- Ground Control Shims and New OE RTABs
(Basically all new suspension all around the car.)

Audio:
- Totally*stock*upgraded 97-99 HK (Harmon Kardon) speakers, amplifier, c43 HK headunit stereo (stock 95 radio sucked)

Replaced in Last 25,000 miles:
-*Gas*tank (looks like they had lifted the car on the gas tank at one point and damaged the tank/replaced)
- Clutch slave cylinder*
- Fuel pump
- Fuel rail*
- Injectors
- Fan & Fan Clutch
- Z reinforcement plates on the front struts and rear shock mounts

And now for what needs to be done:

Subframe Mounts (Rear Diff) - $159
http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=uuc&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=715114772&Count2=632255196&ProductID=424&Target=products.asp

Motor mounts & Trans Mounts $255
http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=uuc&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=875698268&Count2=792838692&ProductID=410&Target=products.asp

Clutch Arm Bushings (Fix Slop) $20/set
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/clutch_arm_bushings/

SS Brake Lines $119
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/ss_brake_lines/

SS Clutch Lines $29
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/ss_clutch_lines/

Clutch Stop $20
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/clutch_stop/index.htm

UUC Parts Price to this point w/ 15% Off:
$511.70

Plus:
Stewart Water Pump - $175
http://www.bimmerzone.com/category/BMW_Performance_Cooling_Stewart.html

Total to this point:
$686.7 +/- and Shipping Charges

Short Shift Kit Options:

UUC Short Shifter Kit, or with DSSR (Double Shear Selector Rod) $355 or $484
or
Rogue Engineering Octane - $394
http://www.rogueengineering.com/rogue/OCTPRI/OCT_E36_320.html
If car produced before 9/94 need BMW Selector rod gear joint PN: 25 11 1 222 688

Total to this point:
$1080.70 w/ RE

Hood Shocks - $20

Coolant Expansion Tank - $60

Part's/PN's I still need:

Oil pan & Gasket (current oil pan JB welded to hell..)
Gasket - $25 - 42 depending on manufacturer
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-M3-S50_3.0L/Search/11131437237/

Exhaust flange gaskets (need p/n)

Ps pump leaking at rack and pump (just fix hoses, clamps? Replace tanks + pump just in case?)

Heat shield below gas tank (bolt holes are stripped/ripped out maybe repair?)

Rear sway bar and mounts/end links (possibly replace, or just replace mount/end links/bushings.)

Re-isntall the HK Amp in trunk, currently zip-tied up - looks like crap.

Warning Lights:
-Diagnose ABS Light (looks like one of the sensors, the wiring was a bit screwy there)
-Diagnose Airbag Light

Interior:
-repair door-cards/side pockets
-pull seats/panels and fix carpet install around console
-repair leather around e-brake
-repair/replace leather and re-build up padding on driver and passenger seat (rip on drivers seat along side bolster seam)
-replace steering wheel, replaced by PO with cheap re-wrap


Exterior:
-repair damage to undercarriage (small rip in bottom of car, will re-weld plate and cover it)
-repair/close metal rings on undercarriage of car (reweld/seal)
-front splash guards & brake vent plastics (missing - need replacing)
-front inner fender wells (gone, need replacing)
-replace both driver and passenger door handles
-replace driver lock module (won't lock/unlock door)
-drivers & passenger windows sometimes leave a gap when closing the door (does not seal properly with the weatherstrip.) Need to adjust the window's. Seems they are out of wack.
-adjust hood, possibly replace hinges (needs to go back almost 1 inch)

Mechanical:
*Clutch engages close off floor
-Replace clutch master
-Replace pivot fork ball pin (5 Series ss p/n: 21511223281)
-Replace TOB
-Replace Pivot Fork Retaining Clip/Spring
-CDV Delete

We'll assess if anything else needs to be replaced in the trans once we drop it.

Anything else I am missing? Pics below!

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/10-30-10/DSC_0467.jpg
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/10-30-10/DSC_0469.jpg
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/10-30-10/DSC_0472.jpg
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/10-30-10/DSC_0473.jpg
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/10-30-10/DSC_0474.jpg
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/10-30-10/DSC_0480.jpg

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/10-30-10/DSC_0481.jpg
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/10-30-10/DSC_0482.jpg
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/10-30-10/DSC_0483.jpg
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/10-30-10/DSC_0484.jpg
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/10-30-10/DSC_0485.jpg
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/10-30-10/DSC_0489.jpg

Check out this oil pan! Someone loved JB Weld..
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/10-31-10/DSC_0513.jpg

Nice splicing of fogs?! No splash guards or brake vents
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/10-31-10/DSC_0514.jpg
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/10-31-10/DSC_0515.jpg

Someone did a piss poor job on replacing the rear shock towers, they are solid but look like ****. I'll probably cut them out and address that in the future sometime. Not hurting anything at this point besides being sloppy as hell.

[284Shooter]

96+ nose panel, no fender liners, no ducting, etc. Did the PO do the cooling system because they drove into something?

[RRSperry]

I bet they slid it over a curb, taking out the oil pan, and the gas tank...lol

Anyway, First on my list would be get rid of the H&R race springs and the Billys... They are both horrible for an E36 M3...

[doofoo]

96+ nose panel, no fender liners, no ducting, etc. Did the PO do the cooling system because they drove into something?

One of the PO's hit a cat and messed up the lower lip/bumper. It was replaced. That is why the paint is new, etc. I would assume the front plastics were not put back in at that time.

As for the front fender wells, not sure. Need to get P/N's on all of that so i can replace it.

Oh yeah, and the race springs are going. Too low for me.. Will just put sport springs on.

**Edit - Also, where is the cheapest place to get an oil pan? I have a replacement used one, but the threads are all messed up and there is a chip around the sealing edge. Re-tapping the threads is no problem, but I don't want to chance leaking after doing the job of replacing the pan.

[graywolf316]

Great job with the car. I hope that thing was hella cheap. I wish you where local i could get you parts not far off of cost.

[doofoo]

Great job with the car. I hope that thing was hella cheap. I wish you where local i could get you parts not far off of cost.

Yeah it was decent. I wanted a black car, so you get what you get..

I have a lift and everything so we will be fine to do all the work. I am selling my built lightning so it's kinda funding some of this work.

I knew going in to this I'd have to spend a few grand to get it up to snuff.

Right now the biggest things are getting P/N's and costs on the front undercarriage plastics and inner fender liners. Fixing the clutch issue's, replacing the oil pan & locking nut while in there.

Car runs strong, compression is good across all cylinders. We'll shine this turd back up. Doesn't need to be perfect, but I want everything to mechanically sound and the interior to be in decent condition once done.

For a 15 year old car, it didn't have anything under it really that I wouldn't expect from a 15 year old car. Earlier this month we were working on my brothers DD 95' S10. It had rusted rear frame, side panels by the bed of the truck were completely rusted through, etc. We cut the panels out, re-welded them in - did all the body work and repainted them. So this stuff is nothing. :D

I appreciate any help from you guys as far as sources for part/prices though. Haven't been in a BMW in a few years, had the itch to purchase another one.

[graywolf316]

Well if you need part numbers for anything www.realoem.com is going to be ur bestfriend.

Also check out DDMtuning a forum sponser, they have all sorts of lights and things that will give your car a little extra life at a low price. (i mention them because of those fog lights lol)

Check the parts for sale sections there are people parting out E36 stuff all the time and you can pick up things like fender liners for a fraction of what they cost new.

[doofoo]

Well if you need part numbers for anything www.realoem.com is going to be ur bestfriend.

Also check out DDMtuning a forum sponser, they have all sorts of lights and things that will give your car a little extra life at a low price. (i mention them because of those fog lights lol)

Check the parts for sale sections there are people parting out E36 stuff all the time and you can pick up things like fender liners for a fraction of what they cost new.

Yeah I was planning on replacing the fogs.. They are all "fogged" up.. lol

Fender liner's would be nice from someone parting out a rear-end or something. But we'll see if I can find some, may just have to purchase new somewhere.

I'm having a hard time tracking down the section on real-oem or in bmw ETK to get the right section/pn's though. Any idea what section those are under?

Anyone in the DC Metro area have a BMW GT1 to diagnose the ABS/Airbag stuff?

[tibzzz]

fender-liners? Under section 41 (body parts).

[doofoo]

fender-liners? Under section 41 (body parts).

Found them.. Thanks. Getting a parts list together now, will see if I can find them from a wrecked car first. But they don't look that bad pricing wise.

[m3luckyoo]

Very nice catch. Good luck bringing her up to par. How much did you pay?

[doofoo]

Very nice catch. Good luck bringing her up to par. How much did you pay?

Little under 6k. Might have found some cheaper, but a lot of them were even worse when I looked at them. Interiors completely ripped up, engines running like crap, RSM torn out, etc.

[redGSRguy]

I like that drop with the wheels!

[jasonknezo]

Glad to see it went to a good home. Mike is a good dude and based upon his other car's I think it will be awesome. All the stuff that was good on this car was fixed by a friend. This car was pretty neglected in a previous owner's hands. At least Mike had a good start from all the stuff my buddy paid for. Excited to see it all done man!

[doofoo]

I like that drop with the wheels!

It's so low because it's strapped down. That said though it is still low as hell. It's brutal on those race springs. I'm putting KW V3 coilovers on it.

Update: Placed my first parts order

BMW INPA/Ediabas OBD & ADS Interface (To setup a home-made BMW GT1 to diagnose/fix ABS & Airbag lights)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160499165761&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_12405wt_1167

Subframe Mounts (Rear Diff)
http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=uuc&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=715114772&Count2=632255196&ProductID=424&Target=products.asp

Motor mounts & Trans Mounts
http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=uuc&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=875698268&Count2=792838692&ProductID=410&Target=products.asp

Clutch Arm Bushings (Fix Slop)
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/clutch_arm_bushings/

SS Brake Lines
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/ss_brake_lines/

SS Clutch Lines
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/ss_clutch_lines/

Clutch Stop
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/clutch_stop/index.htm

Still need to order the following, will order this week:

Door Handles on Drivers & Passenger Side

Inner Fender Wells

JT-Designs Under-Panel Kit (Does anyone have under car pics of how this mounts?)

Trans Pivot Ball, will check out clutch and flywheel when I drop the trans to do this.

TOB

Rogue Engineering Octane
http://www.rogueengineering.com/rogue/OCTPRI/OCT_E36_320.html

Hood Shocks

Coolant Expansion Tank

Oil pan gasket (will lock the nut while I'm in there)
Gasket - $25 - 42 depending on manufacturer
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-M3-S50_3.0L/Search/11131437237/

[jasonknezo]

Mike- This is what you needed. http://home.comcast.net/~matthew.c.smith/mods/underpanel/index.htm

[doofoo]

Update - received all my bushings except for my rear subframe and clutch arm.

Chipped away the JB Weld/RTV from the oil pan bolt. Looks like the threads were stripped but the flat seal is still good. We're going to re-tap one size up or heli-coil the pan to fix that.

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-04-10/DSC_0530.jpg

When pulling the bolt out there was a ton of what looked like black electrical tape gunked up around the bolt. Might have been teflon tape, but it was a mess..

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-04-10/DSC_0531.jpg

Also removed the exhaust (muffler back so far, need to heat up the bolts by the headers as they are all rusted up)

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-04-10/DSC_0532.jpg
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-04-10/DSC_0533.jpg

Need to replace the entire heat shield, it's all torn up. Hopefully someone is selling one off a junker:
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-04-10/DSC_0534.jpg

Finally since the car is so low it's a pain to get on the lift (had to use blocks of wood originally, so we just went ahead and put them on wheel dollies so we can move it around the garage)

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-04-10/DSC_0535.jpg

The real fun is going to begin soon.

The radiator was not mounted in the car correctly, now is the fan shroud. Lots of zip tie's and general shitty work going on there.

I am headed out to Harbor Freight to get a engine support mount/brace so we can drop the cross-beam and get started with oil nut fix, replacing all the bushings for engine, trans, dropping the trans and checking the wear levels on clutch, flywheel, find out if that pivot ball is broken and replace whatever seals and parts for the trans while we are in there.

While looking at the interior we noticed that under the carpet is wet, so I am pulling that out this weekend and picking up new carpet and center console to replace it. I think the water was coming in from under the car when driven in the rain from one of the metal "drain" holes in the bottom. We'll be re-sealing those as well.

Some other shots of the garage:
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-04-10/DSC_0536.jpg
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-04-10/DSC_0537.jpg


What a mess.. This is going to be fun! Should have a fresh car in a few months. ;)

[RRSperry]

And many thousands of $ later...

[doofoo]

And many thousands of $ later...

For sure.. Fortunately I don't have to pay for any labor for anything. Just parts, and it's not looking that bad so far.

[breakfast]

nice project...i like the height of it though... :o

[Matutino]

How much did you pay for it?

[doofoo]

How much did you pay for it?

A decent price, a little more than I wanted but I wanted a black car and all I could find was different colors + automatic's.

I'm not afraid of the work ahead, have the tools, etc to get it done. Just parts basically at this point to pull it all together and it's really not that much.

Just a lot of work. Going to drop the cross-beam and fix the oil pan, replace the engine and trans mounts, get started on the clutch/trans problems and may just throw on some ebay headers while we have everything out of the way there.

[Matutino]

A decent price, a little more than I wanted but I wanted a black car and all I could find was different colors + automatic's.

I'm not afraid of the work ahead, have the tools, etc to get it done. Just parts basically at this point to pull it all together and it's really not that much.

Just a lot of work. Going to drop the cross-beam and fix the oil pan, replace the engine and trans mounts, get started on the clutch/trans problems and may just throw on some ebay headers while we have everything out of the way there.

I get it, but how much is a decent price? what was he dollar amount you paid if you dont mind me asking?

[doofoo]

I get it, but how much is a decent price? what was he dollar amount you paid if you dont mind me asking?

A little under 6k. Figure I have to put a few grand into getting it where I want. I think that whole buying a 10-12k car, or buying a 4-6k + putting another 3-5k into it rule is true.

I'd just rather know that everything is done the way I want it and have to do the work than trust what someone else said was done.

[Tony Soprano]

nice. i always enjoy seeing e36 m3s being "restored". nice work.

[BadBoostedBmwM3]

So, how was he changing the oil?

[doofoo]

So, how was he changing the oil?

LOL - Yeah.. Apparently the PO purchased the car and it was like this. They peeled back all this crap and changed the oil, then re-plastered all this shit on there I guess. The oil I drained today looked good, so it was a recent change.

[jasonknezo]

Negative. He used an oil extractor to extract from the top. I don't think any of us wanted to touch that thing! Hence the reason he bought that other pan. I changed the oil 3000 miles ago with mobil 1 15w50. The stock oil pan thread is m12x1.5, next size up that is generic is m14x1.5 which is mercedes/ford thread bolt count.

Just a public service announcement. Mike knew all of this stuff when buying the car, no pulling wool over anyone's eyes. The car was worse than this when purchased and my buddy threw over $4000.00 at it to fix alot. The previous owner was a young kid and boy was he not a mechanic. Pretty much everything we did not fix Mike is fixing now (oil pan, radiator being installed with zip ties, missing splash guards, new front bumper (cat?!), fog light wiring, etc etc). Car also had some terrible Spal pusher fan zip tied into it with splices off the pacman scan port for power. I put a brand new fan clutch and fan into the car. Some people amaze me. It seems whatever that kid touched somehow was worse than when he started. Mike is doing a great job with this! Can't wait for the door handles and all the other nice stuff your doing on it.

[doofoo]

Negative. He used an oil extractor to extract from the top. I don't think any of us wanted to touch that thing! Hence the reason he bought that other pan. I changed the oil 3000 miles ago with mobil 1 15w50. The stock oil pan thread is m12x1.5, next size up that is generic is m14x1.5 which is mercedes/ford thread bolt count.

Just a public service announcement. Mike knew all of this stuff when buying the car, no pulling wool over anyone's eyes. The car was worse than this when purchased and my buddy threw over $4000.00 at it to fix alot. The previous owner was a young kid and boy was he not a mechanic. Pretty much everything we did not fix Mike is fixing now (oil pan, radiator being installed with zip ties, missing splash guards, new front bumper (cat?!), fog light wiring, etc etc). Car also had some terrible Spal pusher fan zip tied into it with splices off the pacman scan port for power. I put a brand new fan clutch and fan into the car. Some people amaze me. It seems whatever that kid touched somehow was worse than when he started. Mike is doing a great job with this! Can't wait for the door handles and all the other nice stuff your doing on it.

^-- This.. Yeah I forgot about the oil extractor thing.. :)

The oil pan on the car actually looks better than the extra one, we're going to go with that.

[jasonknezo]

^-- This.. Yeah I forgot about the oil extractor thing.. :)

The oil pan on the car actually looks better than the extra one, we're going to go with that.

Good to hear man!

[doofoo]

Update 11/7/10:

Removed drivers seat to start diagnosis of the wet carpet/popped out metal drain hole issue.

After removing the drivers seat I cut the carpet from the floorboard to see how much damage has been done from the water.

See pics below........ Yeah, what a mess. I am pulling all the interior out of the car, checking all the wiring under the dash, etc.

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-07-10/DSC_0548.jpg
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-07-10/DSC_0549.jpg

The damage is not as extensive as I thought it would be. It is mostly localized to the front foot area of the drivers side. Under the seat and behind the seat did not have any water - however the carpet padding had soaked up a lot so it did cause some surface rust behind the seat.

The rust you see is very minimal, mostly surface. We'll clean it up and re-weld the drain cap's closed. Everyone may want to check those in your cars. It will cause it to rust from the inside out basically.

Had a friend let me know he had a entire interior carpet and trim pieces/dash from another M3. So I'm ready to go once I clean things up and get the carpet, console and front/rear seats removed.

Pretty mint carpet

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-07-10/DSC_0543.jpg

Also have a new glovebox to install.. Yay!

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-07-10/DSC_0540.jpg

Should get to the transmission, all bushings and mount replacement and oil pan fix in the next week or so.

[Malarkie]

Wow looks like you are in the same boat as me. Same year, model, and color. Only my boat is in worse shape and I don't have a dry dock. :D

Keep up the good work!

[doofoo]

Wow looks like you are in the same boat as me. Same year, model, and color. Only my boat is in worse shape and I don't have a dry dock. :D

Keep up the good work!


Please keep the updates coming, I've been trying to follow the E36 restores going on here.

[doofoo]

Update - keep pulling things apart and finding more and more I need to fix. Nothing major really but just a pain.

Lots of wires ghetto spliced, randomly cut (hanging free), or stripped and exposed copper.

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-14-10/DSC_0551.jpg

Going to the window motor and speakers, all spliced up.. Big time mess..

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-14-10/DSC_0552.jpg

Where does this go? My "power" mirrors?

Also - the door card on the passenger side was all messed up. Pulling it out it was hot glue'd everywhere - the plastic that mounts to the door and the door card itself was already broken. So that one will need to be replaced.

The drivers side is repairable. Just need to re-solder and shrink wrap all the twisted together bs. Can't believe people would do that to a car they drive/own.

Received my el-cheapo ebay headers + exhaust. Pics below, I will need to cut and re-weld them to fit with the headers as well as install a high flow cat for emissions.

Not bad for the price. Under 400 for everything.

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-14-10/DSC_0554.jpg
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-14-10/DSC_0555.jpg
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-14-10/DSC_0556.jpg

Exhaust:
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/11-14-10/DSC_0557.jpg

Looks like pretty good construction to me. I wasn't willing to pay $1500-2000 for exhaust + headers and have the ability to adapt these to work for me so they will work great. :)


Tomorrow I will pull out the passenger seat and try to get more of the carpet and radio/dash area unmounted. I hope I don't find a mess of wiring in there as well.

The engine brace should be here next week to get started on transmission/ssk/header/exhaust install and fixing the hole in the floorboard. Only have a couple months before my first baby comes so I'm hoping to get it on the road in decent mechanical order before then.

[Albertan]

When I started to read the first post, I thought everything was done on the car. Then I read further about your "to do" list. Reading still further and it seems like there is "something" lurking under every rock. Hard to know where to stop. Looks like you aren't wasting time working on it though. Looks like you'll have a nice car when done. Probably a good thing that the "kid" got rid of the car before it was a total wreck from his "fixing".

[M3 GT3]

!!!! You forgot the S54 swap! :buttrock

[Butler]

Wow, lots of little things to fix :banghead: but it sounds like you were looking for a fixer upper. I have no doubt your going to be doing it all the right way.

Cosmos is the coolest color btw. :cool

[doofoo]

So just as an update. I received my gripforce flywheel and sachs clutch + misc transmission parts/seals, etc.

Working on getting the trans a little more fresh and get rid of the pickup happening a hair off the floor.

Few pics below, one being of the pivot pin I found inside the transmission that is wore/broken down. I am going to replace it with the metal replacement everyone is talking about.

We had to grind the bolts off the pressure plate as they were so tight they were stripping trying to get them out..

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/Transmission/clutch-flywheel.jpg

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/Transmission/trans-in1.jpg

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/Transmission/ppgrind1.jpg

Lots of clutch dust coming out here.. Will there be any clutch left?

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/Transmission/clutchonfloor.jpg

Not much!

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/Transmission/clutch1.jpg

Old vs New:

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/Transmission/clutch-newvsold.jpg

Broken Pivot Pin:
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/Transmission/pivotpin-broken.jpg

All out of the car!
http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/Transmission/trans-out1.jpg

Does anyone know the part number on this rubber boot? I need a new one when putting the UUC SSK back in, it's dryrotted. Is it BMW P/N: 25 11 1 221 700 ?

http://www.ods.org/~doofoo/95M3/Transmission/rubberboot.jpg

Still to do after the trans is done:

- Re-install radiator + fan shroud correctly
- Seal all drain plugs under the car
- Re-install interior & clean up excess wiring inside and outside left by PO
- Install ZHP seats, at least front - possibly modify to make rear fit.
- Install new shift boot, e-brake boot & leather + ZHP shift knob
- Re-solder and fix all melted wiring and connectors for mirrors and power locks
- Install door handles & locks ( on order )
- Install 24lb injectors, Cosmos Racing CAI ( on order ) and order TRM tune for 24lb inj, 3.5" 540 HFM, LT Headers
- Diagnose ABS light and any other codes the car has
- Install inner fender liners
- Make sure enough under body panels are installed so they cai does not have the potential to suck water in rain.

I'm sure I'm missing some other stuff but that pretty much covers it. Hope to be done in another month or two - at least driveable in a couple weeks.

[raoke]

I like the route you're taking to show this car some needed love.

[Drexial]

man, and I thought my car was beat on...

[doofoo]

man, and I thought my car was beat on...

Yeah my car was a whore.. :) I'm trying to clean her up now.. lol

[Drexial]

Yeah my car was a whore.. :) I'm trying to clean her up now.. lol


HAHA, I suppose that's one way to look at it, driven till the money runs out...

Wish I had a lift. certainly makes it seem like it would make my life easier in getting things done on my car.

[New2M3]

WOW I would never have the patience to do that...props for u

[doofoo]

WOW I would never have the patience to do that...props for u

I'm not a very patient person either.. This has build has been going surprisingly well though. Nothing too difficult yet. Can't wait to get into the interior after we finish up with the mechanical stuff.

I'm sure that's where I'll get frustrated dealing with all the melted wires I have to splice and replace.. Fun!

Placed an order this morning. Figured I would include part numbers for anyone who wanted them. Cost around $670 or so for everything.. The door handles are the real killer on price.. All from local dealership.

Motorsports Door Handles:
51218199921 (Left)
51218199922 (Right)

2x master keys cut and coded

Inner Fender Wells:
51711977047 (Left)
51711977048 (Right)

Edge Protection:
51718216079 (Left)
51718216080 (Right)

Rubber Shift Boot - 25111221700
Leather Shift Boot - 25111434322
ZHP Shift Knob - 25117896031
6 pressure plate bolts - 07119906045

[speshuled619]

Great work. Subscribed! This will be very useful.

[doofoo]

Update!

The transmission is back in the car, replaced all the bearings and seals. I replaced the plastic pivot ball with a metal one (pic below).

New lightweight flywheel and gripforce clutch.

Also installed the UUC Trans Mounts + UUC Motor Mounts as well as UUC SSK.


Pivot Ball:
http://gallery.me.com/doofoo/100251/IMG_0531/web.jpg?ver=13001061170001

New flywheel (you can see the motor mounts in the background):
http://gallery.me.com/doofoo/100251/IMG_0530/web.jpg?ver=13001061120001

Getting back into it today.

Will be putting in the UUC Subframe Mounts, re-installing the driveshaft w/ center support bearing, new water pump, re-installing radiator, fan + shroud and installing the new exhaust.

After that there is lots to do in the interior wiring. Check out the interior right now:
http://gallery.me.com/doofoo/100251/IMG_0334/web.jpg?ver=13001058140001

New TRM chip is on it's way. After it arrives I will install the 24lb Injectors, 3.5" HFM & Cosmos Racing 3.5" CAI.

It's starting to get close now.. Soon the ZHP seats will be dropped in and I can actually drive it for the first time.

[BlowM3]

nice work so far. Looks like a fun project.

[WildXride]

nice man car is looking good

[Esteban213]

Damn, someone didnt take care of her. Good look with the project.

[BJO]

Looking good.