Special tools or other needs for suspension overhaul?

[Sexymeatball]

Was just wondering if there are any recommendations for special tools (beyond the obvious such as a spring compressor) or other parts that might be recommended before I dig into my suspension. Before you throw out the ubiquitous "use the search feature", every situation is different given the parts ordered and the experience going in. I already gleaned many of the suspension threads to come up with the parts I would be ordering but just want a quick check to see if i'm missing something or if there are any helpful hints given what i'm replacing. This is what i've ordered:

Sach's OE replacement struts
New springs pads, bump stops and dust covers for all sides
Meyle control arms with ball joints
Solid rubber offset control arm bushings
Front and rear sway bar links

Car has 76k with stock suspension with the exception of the RTABs which were replaced about 10k miles ago.

Thanks for your help.

[Moron95M3]

we were able to use a bench vise to press in the lollipops.

need pickle forks to pop balljoints on LCA's.

[Xiphos]

we were able to use a bench vise to press in the lollipops.

need pickle forks to pop balljoints on LCA's.

He has a 99, they are permanent ball joints on the LCA's. Only 95's had the separate balljoints for the LCA's.

You going to replace the tie rods too? I would, you'll need a pickle fork for that. I'd also get new strut hats too.

[aaronhoy]

I strongly recommend against using a pickle fork. It screw up the boot of the ball joint you use it on, so if you want to re-use your same tie-rod ends you'll risk them going bad prematurely. Also, they are pain to use. The ball joint connecting things on these cars are jammed into the steering knuckle REALLY HARD.

I got a thing like this:
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=module&module=gallery&cmd=viewimage&img=163748&md=1

Here's a pic that's actually more like the one I have:

http://mikestrawbridge.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/100_3193.jpg


Much better than a pickle fork. I have no idea why anyone uses a pickle fork.

[Sexymeatball]

He has a 99, they are permanent ball joints on the LCA's. Only 95's had the separate balljoints for the LCA's.

You going to replace the tie rods too? I would, you'll need a pickle fork for that. I'd also get new strut hats too.

Tie rods have been replaced within the past 5k, although I realize i'll still need to remove them. What are strut hats? Are they just the plastic covers?

[Xiphos]

Tie rods have been replaced within the past 5k, although I realize i'll still need to remove them. What are strut hats? Are they just the plastic covers?

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CD93&mospid=47504&btnr=31_0239&hg=31&fg=10

Part#1. They have ball bearings inside that are wear items and need to be replaced over 80k miles. Alot of people don't replace them but if you want the best ride and the freshest part, I wouldn't neglect this. Its up to you whether you want to spend the extra money or not.

[Sexymeatball]

I strongly recommend against using a pickle fork. It screw up the boot of the ball joint you use it on, so if you want to re-use your same tie-rod ends you'll risk them going bad prematurely. Also, they are pain to use. The ball joint connecting things on these cars are jammed into the steering knuckle REALLY HARD.

I got a thing like this:
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?act=module&module=gallery&cmd=viewimage&img=163748&md=1

Here's a pic that's actually more like the one I have:

http://mikestrawbridge.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/100_3193.jpg


Much better than a pickle fork. I have no idea why anyone uses a pickle fork.

Looks like that's something I want. Do you know what its called by any chance?


http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CD93&mospid=47504&btnr=31_0239&hg=31&fg=10

Part#1. They have ball bearings inside that are wear items and need to be replaced over 80k miles. Alot of people don't replace them but if you want the best ride and the freshest part, I wouldn't neglect this. Its up to you whether you want to spend the extra money or not.

Not a bad idea. Thanks.

[antik]

Special tools:

A set of long male hex sockets (like this: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-7-Piece-8-Inch-Socket-Metric/dp/B000IQNMQU) and a set of deep well impact sockets for strut tower disassembly and reassembly.

I'm assuming you've already got breaker bars, sockets, torque wrench, etc.

[Moron95M3]

i meant pfork for getting the LCA off the car. My balljoints are not replaceable - I have to do the entire LCA too.

[Sexymeatball]

Special tools:

A set of long male hex sockets (like this: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-7-Piece-8-Inch-Socket-Metric/dp/B000IQNMQU) and a set of deep well impact sockets for strut tower disassembly and reassembly.

I'm assuming you've already got breaker bars, sockets, torque wrench, etc.

Yes but thanks for checking

[Sexymeatball]

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CD93&mospid=47504&btnr=31_0239&hg=31&fg=10

Part#1. They have ball bearings inside that are wear items and need to be replaced over 80k miles. Alot of people don't replace them but if you want the best ride and the freshest part, I wouldn't neglect this. Its up to you whether you want to spend the extra money or not.

There are several aftermarket manufacturers of this part, but I can't find a whole lot of information on any of them. Is it safe to go with OEM, or would you consider an aftermarket like MOOG?

[gtxragtop]

Stay away from pickle forks. As noted they will damage the rubber boots beyond repair, and they can gouge the Aluminum. Use the proper tool that can be purchased cheaply from Harbor Freight and works well. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html

You will need to rent a spring compressor with safety pins to prevent the hooks from falling off if something shifts. Speaking of shifting, one needs to evenly compress the spring and make sure that tool is is not cocked too much on the spring or it will suddenly slip and can remove fingers without a second thought. Worse, if improperly placed your fingers can be jammed between the tool the strut assembly crushing them. Never ever place your body or head near the top of the strut when removing the nut that retains the assembly AFTER the spring is fully compressed.

You will need a special socket and allen wrench to undo the strut nut and stop the strut piston from rotating during both removal and installation. I've used a thin walled socket and a pair of visegrips to turn the socket while placing an allen wrench though the socket hole normally occupied by the ratchet. If the tool is cheap enough, buy one. Saves lots of grief.

By all means replace the strutmounts. They have a bearing that gets rusty/worn over time. It would suck to pull it all apart again to replace a defective strut mount that was worn. Buy SACHs strutmounts or buy from BMW. Stay away from aftermarket. There are many reasons why that I'm not going to get into here.

[YAOGinanM3]

He has a 99, they are permanent ball joints on the LCA's. Only 95's had the separate balljoints for the LCA's.

You going to replace the tie rods too? I would, you'll need a pickle fork for that. I'd also get new strut hats too.


Um, that's not quite correct, '95 M3 front control arm ball joints are technically not replaceable anymore than '96+ M3 ball joints are. Some people have replaced their E36 M3 control arm ball joints but it is not recommended. Non-M E36 chassis have replaceable rubber bushed control arm ball joints which are used to improve isolation of NVH.

Tie rod replacement is a judgment call at this mileage if they are not yet loose. But depending on the OP's use IMO for $100 he might just as well replace both complete tie rods with the good stuff (Lemfoerder) and not have to worry about it for a few years because chances are they will be loose very soon anyway. IMO a pickle fork should only be used in the case where you are going to replace the entire assembly with the ball joints in question due to the usual damage to the rubber boots. Sometimes boots do not tear but more often than not the boots are damaged.

Again depending on the chassis use at this mileage the OP should be able to simply clean, inspect and if undamaged, relube and re-install his original "guide supports" (strut mounts to the rest of the world). The strut mounts are easily cleaned out using solvent and compressed air. Inspection is easy, if the balls show any wear or they are not smooth turning or there is any noticeable play after a through cleaning toss both of the old strut mounts and replace with new OEM BMW sourced or Lemfoerder strut mounts, do not use anything else!

HTH!


Was just wondering if there are any recommendations for special tools (beyond the obvious such as a spring compressor) or other parts that might be recommended before I dig into my suspension. Before you throw out the ubiquitous "use the search feature", every situation is different given the parts ordered and the experience going in. I already gleaned many of the suspension threads to come up with the parts I would be ordering but just want a quick check to see if i'm missing something or if there are any helpful hints given what i'm replacing. This is what i've ordered:

Sach's OE replacement struts
New springs pads, bump stops and dust covers for all sides
Meyle control arms with ball joints
Solid rubber offset control arm bushings
Front and rear sway bar links

Car has 76k with stock suspension with the exception of the RTABs which were replaced about 10k miles ago.

Thanks for your help.



Can I ask you why offset FCABs? Have you also carefully checked your strut mounts and outer rear control arm ball joints? You cannot easily check them with out releasing the spring load so they are free to move using hand pressure.

[Sexymeatball]

Can I ask you why offset FCABs? Have you also carefully checked your strut mounts and outer rear control arm ball joints? You cannot easily check them with out releasing the spring load so they are free to move using hand pressure.

Per vendor instructions (bimmerworld):

E36 3 Series and E36 M3 - The E36 non-M chassis cars have the option of any control arm bushing set. Though the '96-'99 M3 came with centered bushings from the factory, offset bushings will be needed to incorporate the specific Meyle control arms from this package. The performance characteristics of the car will be retained with this kit. E36 3 Series arms are Meyle Heavy Duty and come with an extended four year warranty.

Rear shock mounts have been replaced with reinforced mounts previously. I have not checked the outer rear control arm ball joints. Something to worry about with my mileage?

[YAOGinanM3]

Per vendor instructions (bimmerworld):

E36 3 Series and E36 M3 - The E36 non-M chassis cars have the option of any control arm bushing set. Though the '96-'99 M3 came with centered bushings from the factory, offset bushings will be needed to incorporate the specific Meyle control arms from this package. The performance characteristics of the car will be retained with this kit. E36 3 Series arms are Meyle Heavy Duty and come with an extended four year warranty.

Rear shock mounts have been replaced with reinforced mounts previously. I have not checked the outer rear control arm ball joints. Something to worry about with my mileage?



Oh you got Meyle HD E36 front control arms which are the same shape as regular E36 control arms so you need a solid offset BMW Motorsport bushing, got it. Regarding the rear ball joints, no not a problem so much but worth checking if you are under the car and your RTABs were starting to show wear. The rear inner bushings on the control arms and wishbones are very strong but the outers seem to wear out about the same as the RTABs do. Nobody realizes this though because nobody bothers to take the time to check these ball joints just as nobody bothers to disassemble their complete rear suspension to do a proper inspection of the bushings. The time and effort are significant and most people are too lazy or too cheap to pay someone to do it the right way. Almost every bushing and ball joint on the rear suspension of an E36 is pretty much impossible to do an accurate visual inspection of without pulling out the subframe.

To check the outer ball joints you need to remove the rear springs to unload the carriers or you cannot apply enough pressure to feel any play in the ball joints. This is true even with the chassis up in the air. It's a pretty easy job if the car is on jacks or a lift.

HTH!

[gtxragtop]

The strut mounts are easily cleaned out using solvent and compressed air. Inspection is easy, if the balls show any wear or they are not smooth turning or there is any noticeable play after a through cleaning toss both of the old strut mounts and replace with new OEM BMW sourced or Lemfoerder strut mounts, do not use anything else!


I cannot speak for the E36 M3 strut mounts, but the E39 strut mounts from the factory use a special ball bearing. Believe it or not, they crack the outer cage which results in a bearing that does not operate smoothly at all. I was pissed when I first received my new SACHs strut mounts since when turning the bearing there was a noticeable notchyness. This has always meant that the bearing was junk. Sure enough, same with the stock strut mounts. Inspection showed the same cracked (by the bearing manufacturer) outer ball cage. took me awile to find the details, but this is done on purpose. For this application, where rotational movement is low, it results in a bearing that can withstand far higher forces. An aftermarket strut mount that I had previously installed that 6 months later I had to replace due to it being JUNK. did not have this special bearing.

Another good reason to replace them is that a significant portion of the mount is set in rubber for isolation. It deteriorates over time. This is a 11-12 year old vehicle. Spend the $180 and do it right with the right parts.
As for Lemforder, not sure if they are/were an OES supplier on the M3. For
my E39, SACHs was, and the SACHs unit was a perfect match for the stock unit.