Are there any EML gurus out there?

[cis8vgti]

My issue may not becaused by a bad throttle body buy my car is driving worse than ever. Now the car can not be driven.

The car (E34 535ia) is hard to start. When it does, it is idling at 300RPM and the entire car is shaking...LUMP, LUMP, LUMP LUMP. No EML light.

Unplug the throttle body, the idle is much better. About 5-600 RPM. The EML light comes on. No throttle response because the throttle is unplugged.

Plug throttle body back in, back to sounding like top fuel dragster. Plug, unplug, plug, unplug, the story is the same.

I purchased a 'known' working throttle body and AFM from BFC member. Same issue as before. No difference.

What could be causing this problem? Could it be the EML computer? An EML related relay, fuse or wire? Do I have two bad throttle bodys?

Although the car is clean with no rust or dents, it is one week from being stripped and parted. I'll but another E34 with drive by wire.

[shogun]

he Electronic Throttle Control System (EML) regulates the operation of the throttle valve(s).
The scope of EML design on BMW engines provides:
• Throttle valve positioning for optimum starting
• Precise idle speed regulation without the use of an external idle control valve/circuit
• Progressive throttle opening curves matched to the driving program (with EGS/AGS interface)
• Cruise control operation without additional control modules and linkages
• Automatic synchronization of the throttles (airflow balancing) for two independent banks,
throughout the entire engine speed range (M70, S70, M73 engines only)
• Intake air volume control for ASC/DSC (Automatic Slip Control/Directional Stability Control)
systems
• Maximum road speed limiting
• Emergency “Failsafe” operation in the event of component failures
The EML control module is a link in the total scope of Engine Management Control. The EML
is interfaced with other control modules to complete the management system, which includes:
• ECM(s) - Except E46 (EML integrated in MS42.0 ECM)
• EGS/AGS
• ABS/ASC
The main components of the EML system are:
• Accelerator pedal position sensor (PWG)
• Accelerator pedal position sensor (driver’s wish sensor - integrated in throttle housing,
E46 MS42.0)
• Throttle valve assembly/assemblies with electronic control motor(s) - DK/MDK
• EML control module (MS42.0 ECM - E46)

read on
http://www.europeantransmissions.com/Bulletin/DTC.BMW/EML-BMW.pdf

[cis8vgti]

Thanks for the info Shogun.

Reading this information, it appears I have the 1.3 EML system. I had no idea this system involved several components.

How do I start narrowing down the problem? I have no issues with my ASC or ABS system. Changing the throttle body did not help. I have no apparrent fault codes. No sure if my scanner will retrieve them. My problem is at idle so I guess that rules out the accelerator pedal thingie.

If you guys follow a certain check down list, let me know.

[cis8vgti]

The fuel pump and filter is new. No more than 100 miles on parts. A line or injector could be bad, but it does not explain why the car runs 1000X better with the throttle body unplugged. I do not think my car has an ICV.

A DME relay? I can check this next. The TPS is on the throttle bodu right? I switched throttle bodys with no luck so I'm not sure if it is the TPS.

The car always ran poorly. Some day are better than others. Then the car would not start. I thought it was the coil as it is the one of the only parts not replaced.

[googone20]

EML cars do not have TPS. I would try the EML throttle rebuild procedure. It will help ensure that everything is clean and moves freely. It seems like it would be throttle related based on your tests.

[cis8vgti]

I could not find the EML rebuild procedures? Do you have the link?

Do we have to perform any type of adaptation when changing throttle bodys?

[shogun]

throttle body rebuild is probably the best. And yes, the idle is controlled by the EML and not by an idle control valve or whatsoever.
Throttle body rebuild:
go to my website below>>>diy links on the left>>>other diy sites>>> Mrwench>>>see under whitepapers, good write up.
It has to be disassembeled completely, often one of the 2 carbon brushes sticks and does not touch any more.

Adaption: the throttle body adaps on its own, only on the V12 there is a procedure to synchronize the 2 DK, if they are out of sync >2%, the V12 goes into limp mode.

Usually they look like this inside
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/shogun/throttlevalve.jpg
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/hvacdude/Throttel%20006.jpg

http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/shogun/dk750i.jpg

http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/shogun/dk750igereinigt.jpg

How to test? see my website under reference values, that is for the M70 DK, but should do. These data are 100% correct, got them from the maker directly

[manfred235]

Is the problem only at idle, or do you have problems throughout the throttle range? Also, do you still have problems once the car warms up?

You already changed the throttle and continue to have the same problem, so I'd guess you won't get any benefit from cleaning/rebuilding it... unless, of course, you bought a bad one unknowingly.

TPS and ICV don't exist on EML cars, so those are out. The fact that the car runs better when you unplug the throttle indicates that it's getting a bad signal from something. The only thing I can think of would be the temperature sensor. EML cars use the main throttle body to control idle, as opposed to a separate ICV as seen in non-EML cars. Depending on whether the car is started from a cold or hot state, the EML system will adjust the throttle to achieve proper idle. If the signal from the temp sensor is bad or nonexistent, the car will idle poorly.

Checking the temp sensor is quick and easy with an ohm-meter. It's probably worth checking just to rule it out.

The above is a guess based on what you've said so far. Depending on your answers to my first two questions, I might come up with something else.

[shogun]

good idea. Also, I just remember, I once found a damaged wire in the wire loom to the DK. The outer sheath was broken and after so many years in the engine room that was sharp like a knife and cut 2 of the wires inside the engine room where the outer (former flexible) sheath was broken. I removed most of the old stuff and replaced it with new cable protection and fixed the wire.
But that can be tested with a multimeter.
So check the wires between e-box and DK
Wiring diagrams are online here on the board.

[BavarianFanatic]

I was just going to suggest a short in the harness when I made it down to Shogun's post. Start tracing wires and look for damage.

[cis8vgti]

Is the problem only at idle, or do you have problems throughout the throttle range? Also, do you still have problems once the car warms up?

The problem is definitely at idle. It shakes and the idles very poor. If I press the gas pedal, the car will act as if it is going to shut off. I keep hitting the throttle until I can fully rev the engine. When reving, the engine is boggy and sputters. The engine is cold. Outside temps are in 80s.


Checking the temp sensor is quick and easy with an ohm-meter. It's probably worth checking just to rule it out.

Is the temp sensor and the coolant sensor the same? If this is the blue on in front of the 535i engine bay, then that plug is new. The other two in that area are not.



Throttle body rebuild:
go to my website below>>>diy links on the left>>>other diy sites>>> Mrwench>>>see under whitepapers, good write up.


Sorry but once I make it to the whitepages, which sub folder do I go into?

[manfred235]

Is the temp sensor and the coolant sensor the same? If this is the blue on in front of the 535i engine bay, then that plug is new. The other two in that area are not.

Not the same sensor, but they are located in the same area. I can't remember which is which, but one goes to the temp gauge on the dash; the other connects to the DME.

[cis8vgti]

Not the same sensor, but they are located in the same area. I can't remember which is which, but one goes to the temp gauge on the dash; the other connects to the DME.

Yeah, the Bentley is not clear as to which of the other two sensors is for the DME. I'll unplug them one at a time. Which ever one effects the temp gauge on the cluster, then it is the other sensor.

10/1/10 Update

OK, I was able to ID the middle plug as the sensor for the DME. The plug to the left is for the temp gauge. The right is the blue coolant plug.

10/2/10 Update

Outside Temp - 63F
Engine Temp - Overnight Cold

I tested the engine temperature wiring. It was 5.02 on the voltmeter (ACD). Bentley said it should be 5.0. To me, this checks out OK.

I tested the engine temperature sensor. It was 3.22 on the voltmeter (OHMS). Bentley said it should be 2.1 to 2.79 at 69F, +,- 2 degrees. To me, this checks out OK.

Next Step is Rebuilding the Throttle Body.