535i keeps blowing center bearings

[bmwwheelman]

So this is the 2nd center bearing I've gone through since March, I know I'm not installing them wrong as I've got my mechanic to double check my work.


What would cause this? A side from poorly made parts?

[e34Croak]

CSB?
Are the U-joint's fixed (non-serviceable) on 535i driveshafts?

[PetesHelga]

What brand are you using? I hope its not the $22 URO parts one from Autohaus...I think BMA stocks a Febi brand center bearing for $35.

BTW. I work with Rick Saxsby out here in Burnaby. For some reason I found out you two know each other...small world.

[ArnZ]

Maybe one of your uni-joints have seized up

[Isaacus]

In what way is it failing? Whining or something else? If it's not a whine, the bearing is fine. On mine it was a very loud, very high pitched whine that increased with speed. Happened at 201,000 miles and not since replacing.

I'd agree on a seized universal joint. On my 525's driveshaft it was seemingly normal until at about 240,000 miles the old rubber carrier surrounding the new (at 201,000 miles) center bearing weakened and sagged. Suddenly I had vibration under acceleration. Pulled the DS and it was very tight just off center on the U joint, which I remember feeling when I pulled it at 201,000 but didn't really pay attention.

The worn U joint only became apparent when the center carrier sagged down enough to make the U joint have to start flexing.

If you keep it all lined up, a worn U joint won't even be noticeable. Thankfully BMW had the driveshaft be a straight shot from the factory. Just make sure all your mounts are good condition and lined up and even a messed up U joint will be fine.

[TheStigg]

Same here, rubber completely tore off the bearing 18 months after new. Not sure of the brand but bearing itself was made in China, probably the rubber as well. Replaced it with a "Rein" brand (part of the Conti/Continental group) from Pelican's and it has an SKF bearing. Hopefully the rubber is of European origin. I've had alot of failures recently with Chinese rubber parts.

[zubbie]

as stated above.

1. bad part or,
2. something is misaligned or worn in the drive "system" which may include (from the front back)

a. motor mounts
b. tranny mounts
c. tranny output shaft bearing
d. shaft ujoints or CV joints
e. guibo (if part of system)
f. Diff input shaft bearing
g. Diff mounts
h. subframe mounts

In addition to this if your driveshaft is not aligned right (almost a straight line) it will lead to vibrations and premature failure of components.

Finally the preload on the CB must be correct.

GL

[bmwwheelman]

What brand are you using? I hope its not the $22 URO parts one from Autohaus...I think BMA stocks a Febi brand center bearing for $35.

BTW. I work with Rick Saxsby out here in Burnaby. For some reason I found out you two know each other...small world.

Wow that is a small world, tell that greasy fraker to get a haircut!

And no, I passed on the 45$ URO one on autopartsonlinecanada.com


Same here, rubber completely tore off the bearing 18 months after new. Not sure of the brand but bearing itself was made in China, probably the rubber as well. Replaced it with a "Rein" brand (part of the Conti/Continental group) from Pelican's and it has an SKF bearing. Hopefully the rubber is of European origin. I've had alot of failures recently with Chinese rubber parts.

Thats exactly whats happned to mine, the rubber has torn right out.


as stated above.

1. bad part or,
2. something is misaligned or worn in the drive "system" which may include (from the front back)

a. motor mounts
b. tranny mounts
c. tranny output shaft bearing
d. shaft ujoints or CV joints
e. guibo (if part of system)
f. Diff input shaft bearing
g. Diff mounts
h. subframe mounts

In addition to this if your driveshaft is not aligned right (almost a straight line) it will lead to vibrations and premature failure of components.

Finally the preload on the CB must be correct.

GL

I know one of my motor mounts is bad. I am getting a slight vibration from the back end when I pull away from a stop.
I have ordered a new guibo as well.

[darknezz7]

When I got my 535i the center bearing was shot, in that the rubber had torn apart arpund the bearing. It got driven like that for a bit too.

I replaced the CSB and I am still getting a vibration from 40-50 ish that feels like its the drivline still.
I even tried adjusting it a few times with the preload and didn't help.

I expect I'll be replacing the CSB again. I suspect since it was driven for a bit with the driveline flopping around its either warped or a bad ujoint.

Hopefully I'll have the money for a manual swap by the time this CSB goes out cause I'll need a different drivline anyway.

Oh and I SWEAR my car doesn't have a guibo, it looks like the drivline just bolts right to the output shaft of the tranny... My 530i does though.

Heres some pics

If I did something obviously wrong installing the CSB please let me know.
http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad118/darknezz7/csb.jpg

And do you see a guibo here?
http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad118/darknezz7/transoutput.jpg

[Grim Reaper]

If all is getting installed properly then your rear subframe bushings and/or diff bushings are probably shot. This could allow the rear drivetrain to swing forward/back and side to side. All of that weight and momentum can get forced against the center bearing.

[zubbie]

I are guiboless also. Not all E34's had guibos or CV joints. BMW obviously experimented with driveline configurations.

[darknezz7]

I are guiboless also. Not all E34's had guibos or CV joints. BMW obviously experimented with driveline configurations.

ah good to know, I thought I had some freak drivline.

Would rear diff mounts also be the same for my issie? I only get the steady vibration between 40-50 and it doesnt matter what rpms are or if im on or off the gas. I do notice it being worse going down hill though...

[ArnZ]

darknezz7 i recently just replaced a seized uni-joint on my driveshaft, the one that seized was the one at the gearbox output flange.

[darknezz7]

ok? think thats my issue? anyway to tell? I thought they were not replaceable yourself but looking back at this picture it kinda does look like it has the snap rings to hold them in just like my jeeps which were EASY to replace.

Didnt even have to jack it up :cool

[ArnZ]

ok? think thats my issue? anyway to tell? I thought they were not replaceable yourself but looking back at this picture it kinda does look like it has the snap rings to hold them in just like my jeeps which were EASY to replace.

Didnt even have to jack it up :cool

It could be your issue, maybe one of your other uni-joints have crapped out. Have you had the drive shaft out and checked?

When i said i replaced the uni-joint, i misstated that and meant i got a shop to replace the uni-joint. The uni-joints are staked in so no snap rings or anything.

[darknezz7]

It could be your issue, maybe one of your other uni-joints have crapped out. Have you had the drive shaft out and checked?

When i said i replaced the uni-joint, i misstated that and meant i got a shop to replace the uni-joint. The uni-joints are staked in so no snap rings or anything.


ah shiz thats what I thought...

no I didnt take the drive line out, just replaced the CSB.

[misswin]

oh hay. i just found out mine shredded as well. i've also been driving on it for about a month. the thumping noise/feeling under my seat had started not too long before that.... it was brand new, and the install was correct. i'll be installing a used driveshaft and cross my fingers at this point.

[darknezz7]

im smelling a theme with the 535's...

[Racerhoze]

im smelling a theme with the 535's...

I just recently replaced mine again. Though I am 100% sure mine committed suicide because I broke my diff mount which caused a LOT of drive shaft movement.

[misswin]

I went to a shop today and he explained the ujoint common issue to me a bit better. He essentially said I need an entire new driveshaft. Gonna get one used and call it a day... after I make it to Maryland and back this weekend....

I'm gonna piss off the e34 gods, I think.

[darknezz7]

I went to a shop today and he explained the ujoint common issue to me a bit better. He essentially said I need an entire new driveshaft. Gonna get one used and call it a day... after I make it to Maryland and back this weekend....

I'm gonna piss off the e34 gods, I think.

so is it more to get the ujoints replaced locally than to get a rebuilt one like online? Or is it that once the u jounts go the flanges on the driveline are damaged?

I believe I will need a different driveline for a manual swap so I'm just going to DEAL for now.

[misswin]

so is it more to get the ujoints replaced locally than to get a rebuilt one like online? Or is it that once the u jounts go the flanges on the driveline are damaged?

I believe I will need a different driveline for a manual swap so I'm just going to DEAL for now.

From what I understand, it's more expensive to get the u joints rebuilt than to just purchase a used driveshaft and swap it out in the driveway. It's a day job with limited tools, but not too bad if your bolts come out ok.

[russiankid]

I get a thumping noise when I launch....hrm.

But to add to the thread, when installing the CSB, make sure that the carrier is even on both sides meaning that the distance between the bolt and carrier is the same on both sides. If not, the carrier sits crooked, which does not help with the life of the rubber.

[darknezz7]

But I dont want a used driveshaft that will fail again...

Isnt there a place, portland drivelines? or something to get rebuilt ones?

I was wanting to buy a rebuilt one when I get a manual swap.

[bmwwheelman]

I get a thumping noise when I launch....hrm.

But to add to the thread, when installing the CSB, make sure that the carrier is even on both sides meaning that the distance between the bolt and carrier is the same on both sides. If not, the carrier sits crooked, which does not help with the life of the rubber.

The thumping noise could be a loose diff mount, the front most mount on the diff that has two bolts into the side of the diff is the one I've had problems with, if the bushing is bad it'll move around on you and progressively loosen those two bolts...
Also could be your subframe mounts. There is a guy here that rents the tool to remove them, trust me, buy one or rent one, i had to remove the whole subframe to get mine out with a recip caw, torch and air hammer


But I dont want a used driveshaft that will fail again...

Isnt there a place, portland drivelines? or something to get rebuilt ones?

I was wanting to buy a rebuilt one when I get a manual swap.


Kipwinger will be able to tell you, i think thats his name, he had or has one. I may try to find one to get rebuilt....

Pete? Got any parts sources in Vancouver you know of with a driveshaft I can come pick up? Lol

[M Quick]

You guys that has had to change the CSB several times, have you had it (when it failed the first time) to hit the undercarriage hard or under a long time before changing it? Like some of the weights may have fallen of the center drive shaft?
I have had problems with my e30 cabrio before that ate up CSB's that's because when it failed it hit the undercarriage HARD thus making it unbalanced as is. So solution is to get another from the scrap yard or rebalance the current center drive shaft.
Just like tyres these things needs to be balanced and if they are not they will make it fail before.
Not saying it's the problem here, but it sure sounds like it would be.