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View Full Version : Before I buy a resistor for the blower...



GXPVince
08-16-2010, 10:56 PM
I want to make sure its what I need.

This is how it went... I shut off the car (with the A/C on at max) and then quickly restarted immediately for some reason, in which then the blower went on for about 5 seconds then stopped blowing. I turned off the car once again shortly after that thinking it would come back on when I started it again, it actually did for about another 5 seconds then stopped and it hasn't turned back on since. I am thinking its not the blower but the resistor pack, the blower was replaced about a year and half ago and you could here the bearings where bad in it. Do you guys come up with the same reasoning?

I plan on tearing into the dash on Friday, so I would like to order the part ASAP. Its was 110F today I can't drive it without A/C :)

Thanks,
VC

RyanIL
08-17-2010, 09:45 AM
As long as you've checked every fuse/relay it sounds right. Mine went out within a couple of weeks of buying my 7, but I found a blower and resistor used and didn't have to think about it.

Seems like there is a way to diagnose which it is on e38.org or by searching Bimmerforums. At least this gives you a bump.

7partsonly
08-17-2010, 08:10 PM
i have blower with the resistor for sale. it is 100.00 shipped. i can ship today if needbe .. i take paypal...

nah2323
08-17-2010, 09:03 PM
Ahh, Mr. Papagorgio!

7partsonly
08-20-2010, 02:44 AM
??

GXPVince
09-19-2010, 02:39 AM
Well, took the plunge today and took out the dash (wasn't hard at all) to replace the resister... Replaced it and it still doesn't turn on.

I have a few questions before I move on to replacing the blower. I checked the engine bay fuses only (passenger side near firewall) and they seemed to be good. Is there another place I should check for relays and fuses?

$200 deep into this already and don't wanna spend $200 more if I don't have to.

By the way, the blower was replaced about 2 years ago, so I am second guessing myself that its the blower, thats why I am coming to you guys for help. Thanks.

Edwin NL
09-19-2010, 04:01 AM
You changed the resistor but is the motor still good?

Can you test for power with a voltmeter?

FLOWE38
09-19-2010, 09:40 AM
There is another set of fuses in the trunk above the battery.

RIboater
09-19-2010, 09:43 AM
It can't be a fuse if it did come back even for just 5 seconds. twice.

GXPVince
09-19-2010, 03:55 PM
I will be testing the blower with voltmeter tomorrow. The fuse issue crossed my mind too, if it came back on it shouldn't be a fuse...

GXPVince
09-25-2010, 09:02 PM
What would be the best way of testing the blower with the voltmeter? Electronic tech I am not..

hybridracers
09-25-2010, 11:06 PM
you dont test the blower, you test for power coming to the blower.

Mayorchuck
09-26-2010, 03:11 PM
Mine does this periodically. Works fine, I turn off the car and when I start it back up, no blower. It always comes back on eventually, anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes down the road. As with yours, if I turn off the ignition and turn it right back on, the blower kicks on for a few seconds. I drove about 3500 miles on vacation in July and it happened 3 times. Hasn't happened since then.

I think mine may be tied to a bad ignition switch. I need to replace it but beyond having to turn it back after starting, I have had no other ill effects. But one time when the blower quit, I 'jiggle' the key and the air came on. May have been a coink-a-dink though.

Just my two cent. Will be watching with interest on what you find.

Best of luck.

GXPVince
10-01-2010, 08:40 AM
Thanks for the responses, Chuck my blower doesn't work at all now so we may have different problems. I did check the power going to the blower using a multimeter. My findings:
DC voltage
AC off = 0
fan on speed setting 1 = .74
Fan on max speed = 3.4

The way I got these numbers was I hooked up the red wire going to the blower with the red wire on the multi, then I grounded the multi. I left the blower grounded.

is that voltage to low? If not I can probably assume that its the blower that needs replacing?

Mayorchuck
10-01-2010, 02:02 PM
Seems way to low to run a blower. I have only worked on older American cars but I can't imagine you would not want around 12v to the blower.

AwesomeIsLuke
10-01-2010, 02:15 PM
Seems way to low to run a blower. I have only worked on older American cars but I can't imagine you would not want around 12v to the blower.
Could be, but the fan should still spin at 3.4 volts.

GXPVince
10-01-2010, 02:49 PM
If thats the case, what would cause the low voltage?

Mayorchuck
10-01-2010, 11:54 PM
Luke is right. It should turn the fan a little. My experience with low voltage on other cars was usually a result of a bad ground, fuse or a relay. But if it was me, I would still put 12 volts on the blower to make sure it is good. I have used a lawn mower battery to do this in the past as they are small and easy to maneuver around.

Hope someone else here can help you further.

GXPVince
10-08-2010, 02:25 AM
The blower is still good, I tested it yesterday. I have tested the voltage from the final stage unit out which is on top of the blower and it reads 3.4(full fan speed) however when I disconnect the wiring harness to the final stage unit and test the voltage on the harness I get 6.7v. It doesn't make sense to me 3.4v should turn it a little but it doesnt at all. I am about ready to throw in the towel. I haven't drove the 7 in a month and seeing my buddies white 2011 7 today makes me miss my car. Even though the only thing that the 2 have in common is the number 7. I appreciate the help so far.

Problem is fixed... I fixed it this morning. I need to regain my pride before I reveal the fix =(................ I just have to say a visual inspection is not enough to go tearing up a whole dash. I need some positive comments to help up out of the gutter please.

fledda
10-15-2010, 09:31 PM
So what was the fix? I am on edge as I have the same problem.

novasol
10-16-2010, 10:24 AM
I bet it was some weird normal function of the car that a read through the manual cleared up :)

bmwbob89
10-16-2010, 01:48 PM
I've seen the fuse cause this before. They crack from metal fatigue or they crack then overheat. Then there were just some bad fuses out there where they are crimped at the factory.

E38750iL
02-01-2011, 07:37 PM
The blower is still good, I tested it yesterday. I have tested the voltage from the final stage unit out which is on top of the blower and it reads 3.4(full fan speed) however when I disconnect the wiring harness to the final stage unit and test the voltage on the harness I get 6.7v. It doesn't make sense to me 3.4v should turn it a little but it doesnt at all. I am about ready to throw in the towel. I haven't drove the 7 in a month and seeing my buddies white 2011 7 today makes me miss my car. Even though the only thing that the 2 have in common is the number 7. I appreciate the help so far.

Problem is fixed... I fixed it this morning. I need to regain my pride before I reveal the fix =(................ I just have to say a visual inspection is not enough to go tearing up a whole dash. I need some positive comments to help up out of the gutter please.


How did you fix your blower motor?

thanks

kg018
02-01-2011, 09:43 PM
@7 partsonly do you still have that blower/resistor? i may be interested.