AC Blower has power, not working...

[richardfla]

I have power at the connection, but it still doesn't work. I figured bad motor, but the new one doesn't work either. I tested the old one straight off the battery, and it works....

Any ideas?

I ground the test light on the engine and get a positive from one of the two wires. The other nothing. And I can't ground the test light on the other wire.

[Mr 535i]

Check the resistance called the "blade" in our cars for obvious reasons. You have to remove the glove box, the strip of carpet by the glove box and the air duct just above the glove box. You will see a green connector with 4 or 5 cables coming out. To test it just jump the brown cable(ground) with any of others, jump it for a few seconds only cause the jumper cable will get hot pretty quick. I just replaced mine cost me $200 plus the core. Best of luck.

[Mr 535i]

here's a pic from the DIY section.

[richardfla]

Thanks, I took the sword out...will put it back and try that test. Would I still get juice at the motor if the resistor was bad? I don't want to spend the $$$ on the sword...but it looks original.

[shiftingspeeds]

My a/c blower starting making a racket like it might be going out is it hard to change just the motor...

Whats the cost on just the blower motor off hand.

[sander06]

I think the "sword" is a temperature sensitive controller that is placed in the air duct to prevent over-heating of the air. If this little deal goes out, power is stopped from going to the blower and the blower does not work. Of course, the fan is still good in this case. I had this exact thing happen to me in my Mercury. Of course that was only a $50 dollar repair. You can short the controller out so the blower will only operate at high.

[ross1]

I have power at the connection, but it still doesn't work. I figured bad motor, but the new one doesn't work either. I tested the old one straight off the battery, and it works....

Any ideas?

I ground the test light on the engine and get a positive from one of the two wires. The other nothing. And I can't ground the test light on the other wire.

If you are getting power to the connector at the motor then the controls are not the issue. Bad motor or no ground.

[richardfla]

OK, thanks. I am going to try to ground the motor while it's installed. Any other thoughts why that might work or not, would be appreciated.

[specialE34]

what is the part # for the sword/blade? I had mine removed many months ago and now I can't find it.

[richardfla]

Reinstalled blower (again). The plastic cages are getting a little nicked up. Anyway, ran a separate ground and it worked. Thanks for all the input.

I still think this fix will be temporary. Seems to just work at the high speed no matter what number I put the control on. I am going to try and get a sword next time I go to a yard. Don't know the # SpecialE34, but I know they are $$. Around 200 plus 125 core, and that's rebuilt. I called an indie and they said 600.

[ross1]

Reinstalled blower (again). The plastic cages are getting a little nicked up. Anyway, ran a separate ground and it worked. Thanks for all the input.

I still think this fix will be temporary. Seems to just work at the high speed no matter what number I put the control on. I am going to try and get a sword next time I go to a yard. Don't know the # SpecialE34, but I know they are $$. Around 200 plus 125 core, and that's rebuilt. I called an indie and they said 600.

There is a DIY repair for the sword involving soldering in new transistors.
Search and you will find

[specialE34]

found the part no. on realoem. com. the part is available at BMA, Pelican, and Autohaus AZ. Gonna order mine!

[88bimmer]

well, give it up! whats the part number?

[specialE34]

64118390015