Fastest way too emove front spring.

[Bimmervette]

Aloha gang.
I have plenty mechanical experience, new to bimmers. I took a quik look at my front spring/stut. I see how i'm going to remove it, looking for any tips so i dont waste any time.

[JesterMX6]

remove the strut nut from top of car. raise car.

[auto da fe]

Remove strut. Compress spring. Remove top nut. De-compress spring. That's it.

[strad]

To remove the strut assembly, lift the car, remove the wheel, remove the three bolts that secure the top of the assembly, remove the three bolts that secure the bottom of the assembly to the steering plate, remove the caliper, brake line and unplug the abs sensor, and then maneuver the assembly out of the vehicle.

To take the assembly apart, you're going to need a spring compressor. To reassemble and install in the car, you're going to need a torque wrench.

[VacMan]

To remove the strut assembly, lift the car, remove the wheel, remove the three bolts that secure the top of the assembly, remove the three bolts that secure the bottom of the assembly to the steering plate, remove the caliper, brake line and unplug the abs sensor, and then maneuver the assembly out of the vehicle.

To take the assembly apart, you're going to need a spring compressor. To reassemble and install in the car, you're going to need a torque wrench.This is so much more work than you need to do it's not even funny. On an E34 all you need to do is release the front swaybar. Then compress the strut assembly with a jack, undo the nut, and lower the assembly. The jack will function as the spring compressor. Then just let the suspension droop, reach in, pull out the strut mount and spring hat, loosen and remove the strut out through the top of the strut tower and you're home free. I bet I could pull one out in 15 minutes.

Pelican Parts writeup for this method is here (http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E30-Front_Suspen/E30-Front_Suspen.htm). It's for an E30, but you need to do even less on the E34. I recently switched to 15mm drop hats and it took me longer to get the wheels off and on than it did to disassemble the spring assembly on both sides.

[Bimmervette]

kool. Thanks for the input. I'll be throwing some eibachs in there tomorrow. I was assuming the spring would drop out when i lower the assembly, i guess i was wrong on that.

[AquilaBMW]

This is so much more work than you need to do it's not even funny. On an E34 all you need to do is release the front swaybar. Then compress the strut assembly with a jack, undo the nut, and lower the assembly. The jack will function as the spring compressor. Then just let the suspension droop, reach in, pull out the strut mount and spring hat, loosen and remove the strut out through the top of the strut tower and you're home free. I bet I could pull one out in 15 minutes.

Pelican Parts writeup for this method is here (http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E30-Front_Suspen/E30-Front_Suspen.htm). It's for an E30, but you need to do even less on the E34. I recently switched to 15mm drop hats and it took me longer to get the wheels off and on than it did to disassemble the spring assembly on both sides.

Hi Tim - Could you please break this down some more if you don't mind. I need to remove the struts on two cars for a complete rebuild. An easier way to do it would help A LOT!:help

[Bimmervette]

This is so much more work than you need to do it's not even funny. On an E34 all you need to do is release the front swaybar. Then compress the strut assembly with a jack, undo the nut, and lower the assembly. The jack will function as the spring compressor. Then just let the suspension droop, reach in, pull out the strut mount and spring hat, loosen and remove the strut out through the top of the strut tower and you're home free. I bet I could pull one out in 15 minutes.

Pelican Parts writeup for this method is here (http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E30-Front_Suspen/E30-Front_Suspen.htm). It's for an E30, but you need to do even less on the E34. I recently switched to 15mm drop hats and it took me longer to get the wheels off and on than it did to disassemble the spring assembly on both sides.

Rite on bro. This is what i was hoping to hear. This is how i did my 05 mustang GT and my friends 99 trans-am.

No all i have to do is figure out how to remove the back seat. I did the bottom half already, to replace my seat fuse. Does the upper half just "pull" off too?

[ArnZ]

Vacman is on the 8 ball! This way sounds so much easier, wish i did this when i changed my springs.

[David325e]

Rite on bro. This is what i was hoping to hear. This is how i did my 05 mustang GT and my friends 99 trans-am.

No all i have to do is figure out how to remove the back seat. I did the bottom half already, to replace my seat fuse. Does the upper half just "pull" off too?

Move the sound deadening under the bottom near either side belt buckle. Should already be cut because of a bend there. Undo the two 17mm bolts. Lower the armrest and un-velcro the leater. Two 10mm plastic nuts under that. As far as I remember thats all, maybe two 10mm plastic nuts below the armrest but I don't think so. Then grab the bottom and push it towards the top of the rear window. FYI there are two plastic bolts that hold the parcel shelf down behind the seat back. Its a great time to remove them so when the panel needs to come off (speakers, c pillars, recoloring, brake light) you don't have to take the seat out. Never had rattle or anything with it removed. And the surrounds for the top of the seat belts in the middle break extremely easy. Lift them out with care.

[Bimmervette]

kool... thanks for the info.
Kool. I'll post some pics. I'll probably chop a coil of the eibachs before i install them. A 1 1/2 inch drop is not enough for me... :evil2

[uk525td]

To remove the strut assembly, lift the car, remove the wheel, remove the three bolts that secure the top of the assembly, remove the three bolts that secure the bottom of the assembly to the steering plate, remove the caliper, brake line and unplug the abs sensor, and then maneuver the assembly out of the vehicle.

To take the assembly apart, you're going to need a spring compressor. To reassemble and install in the car, you're going to need a torque wrench.

yer thats the basics
however i dont think you need a torque wrench as such, just a bloody great breaker bar. THe large bolts on the steering plate and caliper carrier want to be done ****ing tight and the rest just want to be tight...


This is so much more work than you need to do it's not even funny. On an E34 all you need to do is release the front swaybar. Then compress the strut assembly with a jack, undo the nut, and lower the assembly. The jack will function as the spring compressor. Then just let the suspension droop, reach in, pull out the strut mount and spring hat, loosen and remove the strut out through the top of the strut tower and you're home free. I bet I could pull one out in 15 minutes.

Pelican Parts writeup for this method is here (http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E30-Front_Suspen/E30-Front_Suspen.htm). It's for an E30, but you need to do even less on the E34. I recently switched to 15mm drop hats and it took me longer to get the wheels off and on than it did to disassemble the spring assembly on both sides.

yer this works, 2 possible problems though.
The huge locking collar that holds the strut insert into the strut body can be incredibly seized on there, the last changes i did (dont know how old the inserts were) i had to use a combination of pipe wrench, hacksaw and chisel to remove the seized collars. there is absolutely no way i would want to tackle that with a spring rattling around and under the wheel arch.
Also, it can be very tricky to relocate the top mount/spring and shock together when reassembling under the fender, been there doen that and spent about an hour between 2 of us trying to get it all to seat correctly.

Not saying its an impossible method, infact i need to do soem similar work on my car this weekend, however i know ive stripped the strut assemblies across within 3 months and put hte inserts in 9 months ago so everything should move freely.
Ill try this method when removing my spring pads and cuttign a coil off :) and doing an inspection on a noisy shock.

[VacMan]

yer thats the basics
however i dont think you need a torque wrench as such, just a bloody great breaker bar. THe large bolts on the steering plate and caliper carrier want to be done ****ing tight and the rest just want to be tight...



yer this works, 2 possible problems though.
The huge locking collar that holds the strut insert into the strut body can be incredibly seized on there, the last changes i did (dont know how old the inserts were) i had to use a combination of pipe wrench, hacksaw and chisel to remove the seized collars. there is absolutely no way i would want to tackle that with a spring rattling around and under the wheel arch.
Also, it can be very tricky to relocate the top mount/spring and shock together when reassembling under the fender, been there doen that and spent about an hour between 2 of us trying to get it all to seat correctly.

Not saying its an impossible method, infact i need to do soem similar work on my car this weekend, however i know ive stripped the strut assemblies across within 3 months and put hte inserts in 9 months ago so everything should move freely.
Ill try this method when removing my spring pads and cuttign a coil off :) and doing an inspection on a noisy shock.I agree that the gland nut (collar nut) can be a bear. Luckily I live in socal and don't buy cars with rust, so I've never had a problem with big channel locks slipped in between the two lowest coils. It's much easier applying a lot of force when the strut assembly is still installed on the car. Much.

With lowering springs installing the upper perch and spring mount is ridiculously easy. Just set them in place, then jack the strut assembly back up into the strut tower while guiding the 3 bolts into the proper spots. It helps to have a second set of hands on this step, but I've done the jacking with my foot plenty of times. Obviously the car needs to be on stands.

[AquilaBMW]

I agree that the gland nut (collar nut) can be a bear. Luckily I live in socal and don't buy cars with rust, so I've never had a problem with big channel locks slipped in between the two lowest coils. It's much easier applying a lot of force when the strut assembly is still installed on the car. Much.

With lowering springs installing the upper perch and spring mount is ridiculously easy. Just set them in place, then jack the strut assembly back up into the strut tower while guiding the 3 bolts into the proper spots. It helps to have a second set of hands on this step, but I've done the jacking with my foot plenty of times. Obviously the car needs to be on stands.

Wanna help me replace my front struts? :help :D

[uk525td]

i can backup vacmans post
it was indeed possible to carry to do this as he posted. However, there was only jsut enough space above the spring (hartge springs) to slip the spring cup and top mount out. I htink on standard height springs it would be advisable to undo the lower control arm from the chassis.
Make sure the anti roll bar link is disconnected from the arb or you wont be able to drop the stru enough.
even o nthe hartge springs it was not possible to reassemble the top mount on the strut, we put the top mount into the chassis then gently jacked everythign back up into place. WOuld recommend two people unless you have very short springs.

[VacMan]

Wanna help me replace my front struts? :help :DSure if you bring it to my house. I'm not interested in trying to work on your car in some strange place full of tools I don't own. :)

[Bimmervette]

i can backup vacmans post
it was indeed possible to carry to do this as he posted. However, there was only jsut enough space above the spring (hartge springs) to slip the spring cup and top mount out. I htink on standard height springs it would be advisable to undo the lower control arm from the chassis.
Make sure the anti roll bar link is disconnected from the arb or you wont be able to drop the stru enough.
even o nthe hartge springs it was not possible to reassemble the top mount on the strut, we put the top mount into the chassis then gently jacked everythign back up into place. WOuld recommend two people unless you have very short springs.

Kool... i had to postpone mine until next sat. I going to jack the whole front end up, and do both sides at the same time, i've done this a few times on other cars, that have the same coil over strut set up. I'm actually going to cut the stock springs, i mean slam the car, and see how it looks, if it doesnt work out, i'll just toss the eibachs in,after trimming a coil off those as well.. :evil2

[uk525td]

i seriously suggest the first thing you do is check that you can actually free the shock retaining collar off before you go any further
if you cant you may want to tackle the steering plate and caliper carrier first. those bolts will give you a headache if the top of the shock isnt fixed and stopping the assembly from moving.

[Bimmervette]

Will do..! I have thought of this, this is also why i'm doing both sides at the same time. I want to make sure both collars are off before cutting or replacing the springs. Wouls suck to get one side done, then not be able to get the collar off the other side.The shocks and struts were replaced about 20,000 miles ago, so i'm hoping the collars wont be an issue. Then i'll move on to the valve cover gasket.lol.. Slight leak.