Battery Drain - Doors locked

[Zetzer525i]

my 2002 525i sat for 3 months and it started right up then after 2 days driving to work (2 miles away) car died in driveway....all power went out down. I was able to charge it overnight and again it started right up. After sitting one day, battery dead again. This time I cannot get into the car to open engine compartment. Key will not mechanically open the door/trunk lock. HOW DO I GET IN MY CAR?? HELP!!

[mattmartindrift]

jump start from under the hood like you're supposed to and you can use the locks.

also, I would venture a guess that you have a loose cable, not a dead battery.

check the positive junction box above the battery - often cables may seem tight; but the problem is there; so, check THOROUGHLY.

[Qsilver7]

Not sure why you can't physically insert the key into either the door or trunk lock cylinder and turn it to the left (COUNTER CLOCKWISE) as both locks were designed to do for when there is no electrical power. (perhaps your lock cylinders need to be lubricated)

Make sure you are turning the key to the left (counter clockwise) PAST the normal location where the doors unlock electronically:

http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/Door%20Lock%20Cylinder%20Positions%20E38%20E39.jpg http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/Trunk%20Lock%20Cylinder%20Positions%20e38%20e39.jp g

[Zetzer525i]

Could not find a way to mechanically open the hood either.
Qsilver7, Thanks for the diagram and instructions. I am a BMW newby and I also do not have a manual.

I got the door open, thanks again. I was not turning far enough to left.
After I change out battery, what else should i check, besides terminal connections, to find cause of drain? Or is it common problem after sitting all winter?

FYI - Someone suggested to buy an OPTIMA red top battery. Well I guess they do not make one for BMW. I went to their web site to search and there is no BMW category search. So I am looking at getting the DURALAST from AutoZone.file:///C:/Users/MICHAE%7E1/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg

Installed new battery and car started right up. Battery light is still on though.
Is this a sign of alternator being bad? or some other electrical problem?
Or do I need to reset something? :confused

[mattmartindrift]

alternator is most likely shot it seems.

a quick-and-dirty check is to run OBC test 09 and it should read from 13.2-13.7 volts while idling and right around 14V while revving or driving.

unlocking the OBC - Unlocking the OBC (Low and High) (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1138110&highlight=unlocking+obc)

[rchan11]

Take it to Autozone to check for alternator.

[Zetzer525i]

Does the Alternator have to be off to have it checked at Autozone?

[Qsilver7]

No, they will hook their machine up to your car...and they can tell how much the alternator is putting out. Autozone, Advance Auto, Pep Boys, Batteries Plus...plus most other car or battery stores have machines that can test your car's battery and alternator's output.

But so can your car's OBC if you unlock it and do TEST 9 (with the engine running). Again, when the ignition is in position 1 or 2...you will see the battery's voltage...with the engine running you will see the alternator/charging system's voltage. The alternator/charging system needs to be putting out MORE than 12 volts to keep the car's 12 volt battery recharged:




KL R = ignition position 1
KL 15 = ignition position 2
KL 30 = ignition position 3 (where the ignition returns to after starting car)
KL 50 = start position
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2537/1861/31340930100_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2537/1861/31340930101_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2537/1861/31340930102_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2537/1861/31340930103_large.jpg

[Zetzer525i]

I will give it a shot. :D

[Zekerbox]

You should get the jaws of life

[Zetzer525i]

After following the instructions (thank you) here are the results.

Test 09 - not running 12.2v
- running/idle 13.4v
- running/1500rpm 14.4v

Observations: car would normally start right up and idle fine, today it took several tries to keep running.
Engine ran rather rough at first, shaking the car a bit. Battery and Service Engine lights on. Outside temp 35°-37°.

Any diagnosis from this info?

[mattmartindrift]

I will give it a shot. :D


yeah, because I didn't post the same thing above him.


After following the instructions (thank you) here are the results.

Test 09 - not running 12.2v
- running/idle 13.4v
- running/1500rpm 14.4v

Observations: car would normally start right up and idle fine, today it took several tries to keep running.
Engine ran rather rough at first, shaking the car a bit. Battery and Service Engine lights on. Outside temp 35°-37°.

Any diagnosis from this info?




the running @ 1500rpms seems like pretty high voltage.

[Zetzer525i]

After the previous post Sunday of unlocking OBC and checking the voltage I did not drive the car (drove my beater). After work today I went to start car and the battery is toast.:(

What will cause this drain and how can I track it down?

[bomhour]

After the previous post Sunday of unlocking OBC and checking the voltage I did not drive the car (drove my beater). After work today I went to start car and the battery is toast.:(

What will cause this drain and how can I track it down?

I had this same issue with a 1988 735i. I installed a battery disconnect. it created a way to not let the car have it's way with my juice. you most likely have a short somewhere. you can try cleaning the grounds. I also know that there is a simple electrical test you can perform on the various parts to see which is causing a drain. If you have not already fixed the problem, you could search youtube for "automotive short tests".