Driving Lights Turn On After Car Tirned Off

[regbma78]

My driving lights have decided to turn back on after the ignition is turned off. The lights will turn off for a few seconds (<10) but then turn back on. Obviously it is running down the battery. I have not run a diagnostic on it. I will do that in the morning. Any ideas why this is happening?

[BimmerBreaker]

Is your high beam stalk pulled in?

[cnn]

You mean headlight ON?

Likely bad chips in the LCM:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209896

[regbma78]

Not headlights, the driving lights that stay on when the headlights are off. The high beam stalk is neutral.

[mattmartindrift]

You mean headlight ON?

Likely bad chips in the LCM:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209896



OP's car is a 2002 and wouldn't have the GenII LCM.



OP,

have you stuck around to see how long the lights remain on? I assume driving lights = fog lights? or daytime running lights (DRL)?

[regbma78]

Correct term - it's the daytime running lights. Sorry for any confusion.

They stay on until the battery runs down.

[mattmartindrift]

Correct term - it's the daytime running lights. Sorry for any confusion.

They stay on until the battery runs down.



There is a function called "follow me home" - when the high-beam stalk is pulled after the key has been removed from the ignition the high beams or low beams (I forget which) remain on for a pre-determined period of time to allow your walking path to be lit.

It sounds like this function may be malfunctioning. However, it's possible that your Light Control Module (referred to as LCM, CCM - check control module, or LKM).

My first suggestion is that you have your car scanned by a BMW-specific scanner able to read/diagnose/test the various modules in the car. The interfaces I know of that can do this:

Carsoft
GT1
Autologic
PAsoft
Peake(i forget which)

[regbma78]

Couldn't access forum for a couple of days.

When I jumped the battery to start I noticed that the nut to tighten the negative battery cable was loose. Not completely free but not as tight as it should have been. After I tightened it, the problem went away. I'm curious as to why the LCM (more than likely) would act in such a way when it was not getting a solid electrical contact. Any suggestions?

[Qsilver7]

Next time you need to jump start your car...I highly suggest using the remote jump start locations in the engine bay if at all possible...sometimes connecting directly to the battery can damage electrical components if there's an overcharge.

Use the engine bay's jump terminals whether you're the jumper or the jumpee..you can also use these terminals to recharge the battery using a charger...or a battery maintainer: :)

http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/E39%20Jump%20Start%20Location%206%20cyl%20engines. JPG
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q/original/E39%20Jump%20Start%20location.jpg

[mattmartindrift]

Couldn't access forum for a couple of days.

When I jumped the battery to start I noticed that the nut to tighten the negative battery cable was loose. Not completely free but not as tight as it should have been. After I tightened it, the problem went away. I'm curious as to why the LCM (more than likely) would act in such a way when it was not getting a solid electrical contact. Any suggestions?


everything communicates digitally and the system is very easily upset - your problems are similar to those seen by people with low batteries.