A few more questions

[chicaneS54]

I had a few more PITA questions...sorry ahead of time:

1. Do you use the blue BMW coolant in our cars?
2. Do you know the hose diameter for the non-pressurized return PS hose to the reservoir?
3. My stick feels like a piece of wet spaghetti, I read that the Z3 shifter is an inexpensive short shifter replacement, is this true? Any year Z3?
4. When I start the car I usually get the blinking check light in the middle of my cluster. Depressing the brake pedal stops the check light. Is there a fix for this?
5. Oh and has anyone attemped to re-anodize their PS reservoir?

[Bert Poliakoff]

You can replace the old hose with new decimal sized hose. Just bring your old one to a hydraulic shop and they will match it up. i won't directly address your spaghetti stick issue, but as far as your shifter goes, there are 4-5 z3 shifters and you have to make sure that the bottom of the shifter will clear the guibo. I took my old one cut it and spaced they eye at the end 5/8" for all of $20 to have it TIG welded. Your linkage may be loose OR bushings and mountings worn from 25+ years of use. The ps resevoir is not anodized, but yellow cadmium plated. I have had mine done at a shop that does cadmium plating. In a pinch, yellow zinc plating will work, but not as goos as cadmium.

[Bentsdl]

I don't use bmw coolant, just make sure you buy quality stuff and change it regularly. I've heard from more than one head that was eaten alive due to bad or old coolant. See this pic of my old head after it had been sitting for some years:
http://www.xs4all.nl/~ricksdl/Big%20Six/JPEG/DSC02773.jpg

[chicaneS54]

You can replace the old hose with new decimal sized hose. Just bring your old one to a hydraulic shop and they will match it up. i won't directly address your spaghetti stick issue, but as far as your shifter goes, there are 4-5 z3 shifters and you have to make sure that the bottom of the shifter will clear the guibo. I took my old one cut it and spaced they eye at the end 5/8" for all of $20 to have it TIG welded. Your linkage may be loose OR bushings and mountings worn from 25+ years of use. The ps resevoir is not anodized, but yellow cadmium plated. I have had mine done at a shop that does cadmium plating. In a pinch, yellow zinc plating will work, but not as goos as cadmium.

So you are saying the z3 shifter is not a plug and play option? If that is the case I would just buy a complete SSK. Thanks. Why do I need to bring the PS hose to a hydraulics shop? I could just match it up at the parts store, it's the non-pressurized return hose held on with a couple of worm clamps.


I don't use bmw coolant, just make sure you buy quality stuff and change it regularly. I've heard from more than one head that was eaten alive due to bad or old coolant. See this pic of my old head after it had been sitting for some years:
http://www.xs4all.nl/%7Ericksdl/Big%20Six/JPEG/DSC02773.jpg

So I guess I am asking did these cars come from the factory with the green stuff or the blue stuff? Because my car has the green stuff and I know you are not suppose to mix or match.

[carsnplanes]

For the coolant, I believe the only requirement is phosphate free coolant. Supposed to use distilled water too.
The Check light is normal when you first start up. Its waiting for you to complete the anti-skid self test. Once you step on the brake, that completes the check and the light goes out. If it doesn't, then it's telling you you have to drive as if you don't have anti skid. Just letting you know its not operative.

[Layne]

1. You don't have to, but since the coolant is blue and the tank is clear, you'll look like a badass if you do. Ask me how I know :redspot

2. 1/2" Buy it at a hydraulic hose shop, not autozone. The Aeroquip brand is massively better quality than anything you'll find otherwise.

3. Will add picture in a minute.

4. That's how it works, the only fix is to buy a different car.

5. It's called zinc chromate (you can't anodize steel). Start calling plating shops from the yellow pages, it can be done. Often it's cheaper to just buy a new part though.

[carsnplanes]

1. You don't have to, but since the coolant is blue and the tank is clear, you'll look like a badass if you do. Ask me how I know :redspot

2. 1/2" Buy it at a hydraulic hose shop, not autozone. The Aeroquip brand is massively better quality than anything you'll find otherwise.

3. Will add picture in a minute.

4. That's how it works, the only fix is to buy a different car.

5. It's called zinc chromate (you can't anodize steel). Start calling plating shops from the yellow pages, it can be done. Often it's cheaper to just buy a new part though.

Layne, the only zinc chromate I know is a flat finish green or light green. It's used as a corrosion protection primer on aluminum on aircraft. (look at the helicopter in the sig pic )Can be sprayed. Is this what you mean? There is a cadmium spray color in a spray can. Yellowish gold. Eastwood has it. http://www.eastwood.com/golden-cad-kit.html

[Bert Poliakoff]

[QUOTE=chicaneS54;18937141]So you are saying the z3 shifter is not a plug and play option? If that is the case I would just buy a complete SSK. Thanks. Why do I need to bring the PS hose to a hydraulics shop? I could just match it up at the parts store, it's the non-pressurized return hose held on with a couple of worm clamps.

I didn't say that. I said there are 4-5 z3 shifters and just make sure which ever 1 you use clears the guibo. Some have a longer fulcrum below the "ball" than others do. To be conservative the early 2.8 z3 shifter has the largest clearance and go from there. Do a little research. Zerex will work, just make sure they are aluminum head compatible. I believe the Zerex label states that it is OK for BMW engines. +1 on the zinc chromate, that is a primer, not a plating. The info in my first post on the plating is spot on. If you go to the parts store, just make sure the hose is ps fluid compatible.

[Layne]

Jody, no it's a plating process not a spray on coating. First it is zinc plated (which is silver) and then it is "chromated" which turns it yellow. There are DIY kits out there, search the web.

Shifters:
http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/shift_comp.gif

Also the E60 545i shifter is a popular shorter option these days. And one of the diesel 3 series too (no one seems to know why the diesel is shorter than others). It's all very confusing...

[chicaneS54]

5. It's called zinc chromate (you can't anodize steel). Start calling plating shops from the yellow pages, it can be done. Often it's cheaper to just buy a new part though.

Ummm nope....

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=5374&mospid=47205&btnr=32_0148&hg=32&fg=20


Layne, the only zinc chromate I know is a flat finish green or light green. It's used as a corrosion protection primer on aluminum on aircraft. (look at the helicopter in the sig pic )Can be sprayed. Is this what you mean? There is a cadmium spray color in a spray can. Yellowish gold. Eastwood has it. http://www.eastwood.com/golden-cad-kit.html


That's what I was looking for, thanks.


Jody, no it's a plating process not a spray on coating. First it is zinc plated (which is silver) and then it is "chromated" which turns it yellow. There are DIY kits out there, search the web.

Shifters:
http://www.nmia.com/%7Edgnrg/shift_comp.gif

Also the E60 545i shifter is a popular shorter option these days. And one of the diesel 3 series too (no one seems to know why the diesel is shorter than others). It's all very confusing...

Are you saying all these shifters fit our cars, I'm not getting what you are saying here.

[Bert Poliakoff]

Eastman has what they cal a DIY cad or zinc plating kit. But it is spray paint and not bonded to the metal as if it was really plated. If you want to DIY, just spray with silver paint and then go over that with a real thin coat, almost translucent, of gold.

[carsnplanes]

Jody, no it's a plating process not a spray on coating. First it is zinc plated (which is silver) and then it is "chromated" which turns it yellow. There are DIY kits out there, search the web.

Shifters:
http://www.nmia.com/%7Edgnrg/shift_comp.gif

Also the E60 545i shifter is a popular shorter option these days. And one of the diesel 3 series too (no one seems to know why the diesel is shorter than others). It's all very confusing...

Layne,
ok, didn't know there was a "process" and an aluminum primer with the same name. Learned somthin' new. The green primer was the one I was thinking of. ..,plus, I thought he wanted to go the spray coating route to save money rather than a process which I assume requires the part being baked or electrically charged. The Eastwood one looks like a cool product for that cad look.

[alpinacsi]

Replacing the shifter arm is not going to fix your problem. It is only going to change the pull distance and effort. You need to replace all of the wear parts first and then worry about the short shift last.

[Layne]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromate_conversion_coating

[CW6er]

I had a few more PITA questions...sorry ahead of time:

1. Do you use the blue BMW coolant in our cars?
Use Zerex G05 at about $10/11 a gal. from NAPA. It is best to do a complete flush and refill with whatever you decide to use and only use distilled water.

The BMW blue is what BMW recommends (they would, only they sell it, at $20/25 a gal! :shifty ). It is a BASF "HOAT" formula called "G48" and has been around for years. In Europe it is as common as our "Conventional Green" coolant was in the States. Zerex makes it under license in the states for BMW and Zerex used to sell it under their own brand name but it disappeared a few years ago. Luckly, BASF sold a "HOAT" formula called "G05" to Ford/Chyrsler/Mercedes which is basically an upgraded G48, and Zerex makes this also. So use the Zerex G05.

The G-05 is the same phosphate free formula as the G48 with the addition of a nitrate to make it compatible with the steel liners found in diesels. Both are a Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) which combines the technology of the "Conventional Green" with an Organic Acid, in a phosphate free formula. and can actually be mixed with the Conventional Green without causing major problems.
__________

BASF also makes a newer formula (G34), using only Organic Acid Technology (OAT) which they sold to GM as "DexCool". You may have heard of the problems GM has had with DexCool. Mercedes/ Chrysler and Ford tested DexCool and rejected it when they found the OAT used in it (2-EHA**) to be a plasticizer and softening some of the new plastic/nylon gaskets being used in the new engines.

If you look on the label of the Prestone and almost all of the other coolants in the Auto and discount stores, advertising, '"Any Make, Any Model", you find the same 2-EHA OAT that is the main ingredient of the DexCool, which Ford and Mercedes/ Chrysler expressly forbid. The FTC has ordered Prestone to stop advertising '"Any Make, Any Model", and Prestone has refused. There is now a class action suit against them also. Most of the generic coolants list these same ingredients.


2. Do you know the hose diameter for the non-pressurized return PS hose to the reservoir?Look up the hose in the parts Catalog, they generally give the size. There are 4 return lines and I think they are all different diameters. The hose from the Steering box to the reservoir I believe is 12X18MM


3. My stick feels like a piece of wet spaghetti, I read that the Z3 shifter is an inexpensive short shifter replacement, is this true? Any year Z3?Check out these links on shifters, and follow the links they contain:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=989267&
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1211814&


4. When I start the car I usually get the blinking check light in the middle of my cluster. Depressing the brake pedal stops the check light. Is there a fix for this?As stated, this is normal operation, but it is checking the stop (brake) light bulbs, not the anti-skid (the "ABS" light in the cluster does that).

[chicaneS54]

Eastman has what they cal a DIY cad or zinc plating kit. But it is spray paint and not bonded to the metal as if it was really plated. If you want to DIY, just spray with silver paint and then go over that with a real thin coat, almost translucent, of gold.


That's all I am looking for. How much do you think it would cost to replate? Do you really think you would get better results?


Replacing the shifter arm is not going to fix your problem. It is only going to change the pull distance and effort. You need to replace all of the wear parts first and then worry about the short shift last.


Can you point me to what shifter parts that I need to replace? Thanks.




Look up the hose in the parts Catalog, they generally give the size. There are 4 return lines and I think they are all different diameters. The hose from the Steering box to the reservoir I believe is 12X18MM


It's the hose from the reservoir to the pump not the steering box. Thanks.

[alpinacsi]

Can you point me to what shifter parts that I need to replace? Thanks.




It's the hose from the reservoir to the pump not the steering box. Thanks.

Without knowing what you have, I can not say. try looking at one of the sites like realOEM.com and then you can reference the mounting/wear items there.

You can also reference realOEM for the hose info as CW6er suggested.

[rem83]

I would go (and do eventually plan to go) with the z3 1.9 shifter. as you can see, it has the most clearance and the smallest reduction in shift throw, so while it will be shorter than stock, it should clear the guibo and not be overly notchy

would you mind posting your car in your profile? without knowing what year you have, it's impossible to tell you what additional parts you need. standard parts on both the sheet metal and aluminum consoles are the circlip that holds the selector shaft to the shift lever, the shift knuckle (go OEM, do NOT buy the aftermarket MTC knuckle. if it is not from a BMW parts dealer, it is definitely the MTC one, which can be junk), the little sponge thing that goes in the knuckle, a couple of plastic washers that go on at the selector shaft to shift lever interface, a couple of o-rings and a spacer that go on at the selector shaft to shift knuckle interface, possibly the retainer ring and pin for the shift knuckle, and then there are a few bushings that vary based on what type of shifter console you have.

from the other threads:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/z43-0.jpg

i use g05 anti-freeze in my car, after going the bmw blue route on my e30 and then regretting having $20 / gallon anti-freeze which I didn't want to drain out unless i REALLY had to... the only issue i see with the g05 is that it's practically clear. when it's in an aged yellow reservoir, you can't tell the difference between it and water, and it doesn't have a particularly strong smell either. this led me to be optimistic and hope my car had the correct anti-freeze in it when i bought it, but i decided to drain some of the coolant to double check before houston froze this winter and discovered it was just water :(

[Bert Poliakoff]

When I modified my original lever, I used the measurement from the 1.9 Z3 lever and added a hair to it. I have an 81 euro w/ dogleg and the eye end of the fulcrum is close to the guibo, but with an adequate amount of clearance