Aluminum Sealers

[jeffcfp1]

I've been doing ALOT of online research on products that might help to care for polished wheels, bumpers etc to help delay and avoid spotting and staining. I am actually thinking of testing them on a spare style 5 wheel and an aluminum bumper and will be happy to share the results. On this note, if anyone has any of these products or has used them, either share your feedback and or consider sending me a sample to used in my little test.

Has anyone used any of these products?

Everbrite (I've already obtained sample)

Sharkhide
ProtectaClear
GJ Nikolas & Company
Above three from Finishing.com

Rejex
Alcoa Spray on Sealant #199716
Gord's
There's another more common for wheels, stuck for name, its two part and difficult to apply




Appreciate any and all feedback.

[Bert Poliakoff]

The fellow who polished my wheels, told me not to use anything on them. Just to clean them with Windex. And they could be brightened occasionally with some Mothers,etc, polish

[86GT635]

Jeff, how did you like this stuff? I am thinking about ordering some of the protectaclear.

[5280 M6]

I have had good results keeping the polished lip portions of my wheels bright and free of minor discoloration/oxidation by using a metal polish product by "Captain Richard's" called "BOM" which is short for Best Overall Method. He developed his line of products, including BOM, for motorcycle detailing. Only sales outlet I am aware of is his website.

I usually very skeptical of the "easy" process products that claim to give results, but the BOM metal polish won me over.

Jim

[86GT635]

The protectaclear is more of a sealant, rather than a polish. It's a self leveling clear coat. I am too, leary of 'do it all' product's, but this might be one of those things. Kind of like leatherique, once you use it, nothing compares.

I'm wrapping up a solid bare metal set of wheels, and short of expensive powdercoat, this product seems to fit the bill. I'm going to give it a shot.

[JimPA]

Jeff,

I'm not familiar with any of the products you listed. I took off my aluminum bumpers and had them chemically stripped to remove the original anodizing. I then wet sanded with progressively finer paper to get rid of scratches and nicks. They were prepped with MEK and Sikkens M600 then shot with XIM Copper DOC Clear Coat (#4412). It's step 3 in a three step finishing process for polished copper. It does not amber and has held up well over the last 3+ years without any special maintenance or attention. Check it our here: www.XIMbondr.com. (http://www.ximbondr.com/)

[jeffcfp1]

Glad to see some life in this thread. I didn't end up doing anything, although I did purchase a sample of the Everbrite which I could sample on a spare completely polished Style 5 (unless someone wants to buy it from me...).

Separately, this month's Eastman(sp) Catalog has a product that they are now carrying the acts as a sealer.

Jim, I had recalled you mentioning something contrary to your post years ago, i.e. that nothing would adhere to polished surfaces. Interestingly, most all outside door hardware seems to be shot with a clear.

[JimPA]

Jim, I had recalled you mentioning something contrary to your post years ago, i.e. that nothing would adhere to polished surfaces.

Partly correct. The info I got was that standard automotive clear urethane would not adhere to a shiny surface for very long. For that reason, the paint pro at the body shop strongly recommended against using that product. He said I wouldn't be happy with the result for very long.

That's what led me to Copper DOC. Further, once the surface is cleaned, using almost any metal polish to make it really shine will leave an oily residue. That residue also limits finish coat adhesion, which is why I mentioned using the prep chemicals. The result is a relatively bright aluminum bumper, although it's not as shiny as chrome (i.e., a Euro bumper).

[86GT635]

I went through all of the different products Jeff listed. The ones that stood out to me were the protectaclear, and then the rejex, they have some good stuff too, and a smart sales pitch.

The everbrite Jeff has is for previously cleared/painted surfaces. It will 'refresh' those coatings and does a good job. It will bring back a horrid paint job, or garage door's that are faded. It last's a long time.
The protectaclear goes on as easy as wax, but is a solvent based clear paint. It say's it will last for up to ten years even with using cleaners. It's super thin, super clear, and super tough. It won't fade, or yellow. It self heals to new layers being added. The surface has to be neutralized, by using their prep, or using baking soda, and water. Or denatured alcohol. Or by using maas polish, because that stuff doesn't have any acid's in it. It is also removed by using a extremely harmful chemical called xylene. Salt won't phase this stuff, and brake dust hoses off with ease. I'm sold on the stuff. I'll order some of it today and post up the result's when I recieve it and use it.

[Ed Lyerly]

I've had good luck with Zoopseal. Time will tell if it is stops or lengthens the time it takes to water spot or stain.
http://zoopseal.com/

[86GT635]

zoops is a good brand. One of the best in the lowrider scene. I would have went with it, but my wheels might see winter use, so I opted for something that will last and protect in salt water.

[Ed Lyerly]

Good point ..... instructions say wash off with soapy water within 2 hours if exposed to salt water.

[01Blue530i]

I went through all of the different products Jeff listed. The ones that stood out to me were the protectaclear, and then the rejex, they have some good stuff too, and a smart sales pitch.

The everbrite Jeff has is for previously cleared/painted surfaces. It will 'refresh' those coatings and does a good job. It will bring back a horrid paint job, or garage door's that are faded. It last's a long time.
The protectaclear goes on as easy as wax, but is a solvent based clear paint. It say's it will last for up to ten years even with using cleaners. It's super thin, super clear, and super tough. It won't fade, or yellow. It self heals to new layers being added. The surface has to be neutralized, by using their prep, or using baking soda, and water. Or denatured alcohol. Or by using maas polish, because that stuff doesn't have any acid's in it. It is also removed by using a extremely harmful chemical called xylene. Salt won't phase this stuff, and brake dust hoses off with ease. I'm sold on the stuff. I'll order some of it today and post up the result's when I recieve it and use it.

I know this thread is old as hell, but did you ever order the protecta clear and give it a shot? I'm thinking about using it on style 42's which I will be refurbing very soon.

- - - Updated - - -

86GT635 if you see this make some room in your inbox!

[Layne]

I remember reading about a clear coat product specifically designed to adhere to chrome or polished aluminum. They even had tinted versions. No idea if it really works. Sticking to anything polished is a very tricky requirement.

As for polish, I got some marine stuff, I think it's 3M. Very expensive and reeks like ammonia, so you know it's working.

[FernandoBunster]

The fellow who polished my wheels, told me not to use anything on them. Just to clean them with Windex. And they could be brightened occasionally with some Mothers,etc, polish

It is my personal experience that that you MUST seal the polished section of the rim. Bert, that recommendation is probably accurate in your dry climate where you don't have to deal with bad roads, high humidity and ocean salt in the air. Initially I just cleaned the polished barrels of my style-19 BBS wheels, but they soon stained in the harsh northeast environment which required re-polishing and clear coating. I would prefer something better than the clear coat because unless it's applied professionaly it only lasts a few months.

Jeff I understand that Sharkhide is good stuff but if I recall, it needs to be applied regularly.

[86GT635]

I know this thread is old as hell, but did you ever order the protecta clear and give it a shot? I'm thinking about using it on style 42's which I will be refurbing very soon.

- - - Updated - - -

86GT635 if you see this make some room in your inbox!

Oops! Made some room.

I got back to you on the first pm. Did you get it? Might have filled it up on that one.


The protectaclear stuff wasn't good enough. It had strict instructions that I followed to a tee. It works if you're not going to use the item you're coating. I would say it would preserve a item from corrosion. But it felt like rubber and peeled off very easily. You could scrub the stuff off with a terry cloth towel. It was like painting on a liquid saran wrap, though even more delicate. The 3m paint protector in a can is essentially the same stuff, but stronger. I tried it on a wheel last summer and had to eventually strip it with ammonia and a towel. The 3m stuff stained with brake dust and felt like rubber.

Still haven't found the magic stuff yet.