1994 E34 Touring Starting Issues

[AquilaBMW]

Hello Again Guys -

Sorry to start a new thread, but I need to track the responses and results and I could not find anything that helped enough.

My car has been sitting for at least two months now in the garage which is under our building.

At first the batter died - but I got a new battery and the car cranks over fine. It has over half a tank of fuel in it as well. However, the car will not fire up.

I am suspecting the fuel pump because I cannot hear it working I turn the ignition on into the second position.

I would appreciate your feedback on options. There have been suggestions like tapping the fuel pump with a hammer as they sometimes freeze up? Other suggestions were to check or test the fuel pump relay.

Can someone help direct me on this please. Dumb question here - but where do I find the fuel pump on a touring? And what is the best recommend way to "tap" it to see if it will work.

Secondly, how and where do I check the fuel pump relay? Is it located in the fuse box in the engine compartment or somewhere else?

All help is very welcome.

Thanks!

[upallnight]

Fuel pump is in the gas tank. Remove the cover for the spare tire and on the right side you will see a round plate with a bunch of nuts. Remove the nuts and remove the plate. Once you remove the plate you will see a electrical connection and another plate with a bunch of screws. Disconnect the electrical connection and remove the screws. You will need to release the clip that secure the fuel pump to the gas tank.

Relay is located in the e-box not the fuse box.

[AquilaBMW]

Fuel pump is in the gas tank. Remove the cover for the spare tire and on the right side you will see a round plate with a bunch of nuts. Remove the nuts and remove the plate. Once you remove the plate you will see a electrical connection and another plate with a bunch of screws. Disconnect the electrical connection and remove the screws. You will need to release the clip that secure the fuel pump to the gas tank.

Relay is located in the e-box not the fuse box.

Thank you for the information. I will check it out. Anyone if there is a "good" way to hot wire the pump just to see if it is working so I can either eliminate that issue or deal with it. Also... is the E box under the rear seat?

EDIT: Okay... I guess I am going for it. So, please help or please refer me:

1/. Can't remember the site name where I can go check on the parts for the car. There was a great referral site that listed the cars with the year and model and the OEM part numbers and images.

2/. What is the difference between a Fuel Pump and a Fuel Sender? BavAuto shows two different things on their site.

3/. Please tell me I am insane for getting into this again!

I saw in another post about the E34's immobilizer kicking into place after the battery loses power. My car has a BMW Factory alarm installed. With the car cranking, but just not firing - can I assume the alarm system is not to blame? I don't think it has an immobilizer and I have never set a password into the car's computer to prevent it starting.

Do immobilizers ever shut down things like the fuel pump? Sorry for the dumb questions - I am "re-learning" the car again.

Thanks again!

[upallnight]

e-box is in the engine bay. The box is on the other side of where the fuse box is located. You need a long phillip screw driver to unloosen the screws, they will not come out. Have someone turn on the ignition switch to the run or start position while you listen at the back where I told you where the fuel pump is. You should be able to hear it pump for a short while.

[attack eagle]

a failed crank sensor would stop the engine from firing and possibly also keep the ecu from turning the pump on.

can you confirm spark?
as i recall the fuel pump wire goes out of the e-box, to the OBC, from the obc right by the battery and then to the fuel pump.


You need to test for voltage WHILE THE ENGINE IS ROTATING. no turn = no pump, for safety reasons.

[Hanselhoff]

a failed crank sensor would stop the engine from firing and possibly also keep the ecu from turning the pump on.

can you confirm spark?
as i recall the fuel pump wire goes out of the e-box, to the OBC, from the obc right by the battery and then to the fuel pump.


You need to test for voltage WHILE THE ENGINE IS ROTATING. no turn = no pump, for safety reasons.

agreed on crank sensor..crank will stop ecu from sending fuel...trust me been there

are you getting a firiing at all....or just crank crank...

[AquilaBMW]

e-box is in the engine bay. The box is on the other side of where the fuse box is located. You need a long phillip screw driver to unloosen the screws, they will not come out. Have someone turn on the ignition switch to the run or start position while you listen at the back where I told you where the fuel pump is. You should be able to hear it pump for a short while.

Thanks! I will check it out. Any suggestions on the best place to acquire a new fuel pump, feeder and relay? I was about to go to fleabay but have my reservations. I suspect the fuel pump only because the car failed to start once before because it was parked on an incline and somehow suffered fuel starvation. It was suggested I change it then, but I simply soldiered on.


a failed crank sensor would stop the engine from firing and possibly also keep the ecu from turning the pump on.

can you confirm spark?
as i recall the fuel pump wire goes out of the e-box, to the OBC, from the obc right by the battery and then to the fuel pump.


You need to test for voltage WHILE THE ENGINE IS ROTATING. no turn = no pump, for safety reasons.

AE - good to hear from you. I don't know how to check for spark. I had a 535i once before that the crank sensor literally fell off and it would not fire up at all. I will have to definitely check that.


agreed on crank sensor..crank will stop ecu from sending fuel...trust me been there

are you getting a firiing at all....or just crank crank...

Hansel - currently the car is just cranking... nothing more. No fire at all!

[attack eagle]

pull a coil pack off and look for spark. that's what I do!

check my alarm install thread, i found the pin location for the fuel pump wire where the big connector is next to the battery. easy place to test, run a jumper wire,etc.

[AquilaBMW]

pull a coil pack off and look for spark. that's what I do!

Gotcha. So, pull off the engine cover and just pull one of the packs out and crank her... or have someone crank her. I am guessing that if there is spark, then the crank sensor is working okay and this is a fuel starvation issue?

[attack eagle]

that would be my guess. though i would test for power and ground at the fuel pump first to confirm it is being powered while cranking.

[AquilaBMW]

that would be my guess. though i would test for power and ground at the fuel pump first to confirm it is being powered while cranking.

Will do. Thanks again!

[upallnight]

Probably a dead fuel pump. When they stop working, they stop working.

[AquilaBMW]

Probably a dead fuel pump. When they stop working, they stop working.

I actually hope that is all it is - I just got one from a forum member and should be here soon. In the meantime, I will check the other stuff - it nothing else it will get me more familiar with the car.

[sfgearhead]

While you're waiting, go through and clean up the plugs, or swap in new ones. Fouled plugs won't help any.

Checking for spark as AE suggested is a great start. Hold the coil close to the spark plug (and don't touch the engine, or you'll be the ground!) and have someone crank and you should see the spark. Alternately pull the coil pack and pop a plug into it, lay on the engine to ground it, and crank.

You could also pull an injector and try the same thing.

Another trick it so have someone crank it while you lie underneath listening for the pump.

Good luck, hope you get it started soon!

[AquilaBMW]

While you're waiting, go through and clean up the plugs, or swap in new ones. Fouled plugs won't help any.

Checking for spark as AE suggested is a great start. Hold the coil close to the spark plug (and don't touch the engine, or you'll be the ground!) and have someone crank and you should see the spark. Alternately pull the coil pack and pop a plug into it, lay on the engine to ground it, and crank.

You could also pull an injector and try the same thing.

Another trick it so have someone crank it while you lie underneath listening for the pump.

Good luck, hope you get it started soon!

Hi Ian -

The plugs are relatively new, I would hope they are not fouled already! I might try cleaning them. I am just so darn short on time these days... ARRRGGGHHHH!!!!:mad

I will keep you posted.

Michael

[AquilaBMW]

Well.... $8.01 later, with rubber mallet in hand - the car still wouldn't start. Gave it a few good wacks (The tank) and nada. At this point, I will wait for the replacement fuel pump to arrive and then install it. Hopefully that will get her running.

Otherwise, if I get the replacement car, I will be letting Elaine go for cheap to the first buyer who comes to get it.

[AquilaBMW]

I am posting a "bump" as I need help on this issue. I installed a replacement fuel pump in the car today. I checked the fuel pump was working by short-wiring it first. It fired right up.

I installed it in the car and she still won't start. Is there any priming or something that needs to be done with a replacement fuel pump?

Not sure what my next step is? One thing I did was plug in the replacement fuel pump and feed and turn on the ignition - nothing! There was no life there. Should the fuel pump come in with ignition?

Any ideas are very much appreciated. I am yet to do the test to see if I have spark. I am thinking of getting a new relay and possibly the crank sensor?

At this rate, the car will either have to go to the shop or I am going to just get rid of it.

[IAmTopik]

the fuel pump should turn on w/ the key on engine off.

[AquilaBMW]

the fuel pump should turn on w/ the key on engine off.

Thanks. The fuel pump is not coming on, so I think the car has other issues.

[upallnight]

did you test for power at the fuel pump connection? No power mean either relay, fuse or ECU.

[bolloc]

did you test for power at the fuel pump connection? No power mean either relay, fuse or ECU.

Ohh... are you sure about that? I would have thought the only time there was power to the pump was if the engine was running plus the initial period when the key was turned on. Of course I haven't had to troubleshoot this issue on the BMW's yet so I could be wrong.

Personally I would locate the relay, then jump it to see if the pump comes on and starts the engine... if it does I would then determine why the relay isn't working, (not always faulty relays).

Just a side note, was the original pump tested, or just replaced?

[AquilaBMW]

did you test for power at the fuel pump connection? No power mean either relay, fuse or ECU.

No, I have not tested for that yet. Not sure how to do that as there are multiple connections in the plug. I did connect the replacement pump to the plug and there was no life there - either when I initially turned on the ignition or cranking the car. I am guessing there is no power there at all. I already checked, double-checked and even replaced the 15 AMP fuse for the pump, just to be sure.

Any ideas what other signs the ECU would show if it were a dead duck of faulty? Can I get replacement relays online or ECU's online?


Ohh... are you sure about that? I would have thought the only time there was power to the pump was if the engine was running plus the initial period when the key was turned on. Of course I haven't had to troubleshoot this issue on the BMW's yet so I could be wrong.

Personally I would locate the relay, then jump it to see if the pump comes on and starts the engine... if it does I would then determine why the relay isn't working, (not always faulty relays).

Just a side note, was the original pump tested, or just replaced?

I would have thought the pump would at least come on when you initially turn the key on. All the cars I have owned have always done that and I could have sworn it is the same for the E34.

Do I risk shorting out anything else by jumping the relay?

I have not tested the prior pump - but now I wonder if it was still working anyway. I had to pull it out to jump it regardless, so I would still have been wrist deep in fuel (I think I got high on it). I figured I might as well replace it with one that works so I can at least eliminate that in as the fault.

[sfgearhead]

Jumping the relay won't short anything, instructions must be out there.

If it works, then it's likely another electrical issue, like the crank sensor.

Checking for spark would also be a good idea, and takes less than 30 min, and much less messy than the fuel pump.

Do you have the Bentley's manual? If not, I can email it to you, PM me your email address. I have both the body and electrical in .pdf

[AquilaBMW]

Jumping the relay won't short anything, instructions must be out there.

If it works, then it's likely another electrical issue, like the crank sensor.

Checking for spark would also be a good idea, and takes less than 30 min, and much less messy than the fuel pump.

Do you have the Bentley's manual? If not, I can email it to you, PM me your email address. I have both the body and electrical in .pdf

Okay.... nice to know that nothing else will blow up in my face. Now I just need to know how to short it and where to find it. I opened up the fuse box again last night - but don't know which relay is for the pump.

If you can send me the manual, I would greatly appreciate it. I will PM you.

AE posted instructions on how to check for spark, so I will give that a good too.

I just had a thought. The car has a BMW wireless key / alarm system wired in, but the key fobs are not BMW. And... only one key has the fob. Is there any way the alarm is disabling the car? Maybe from a dead battery? Malfunction?

By the way, does anyone know the part number for the Fuel Pump relay or where i can find it. I checked RealOem and was unable to find it, I am trying to order a new one as well as the Crank Sensor.

I also opened up the E-Box which is on the passenger's side (In the engine compartment). What I saw was pretty darn confusing. I can post pictures unless someone already has one. What am I supposed to be looking for in there? Where is the fuel pump relay in there?

[bolloc]

I would have thought the pump would at least come on when you initially turn the key on. All the cars I have owned have always done that and I could have sworn it is the same for the E34.

I said that too... not sure how long it comes on for but it probably isn't enough time to test/troubleshoot the pump.


Do I risk shorting out anything else by jumping the relay?

I have not tested the prior pump - but now I wonder if it was still working anyway. I had to pull it out to jump it regardless, so I would still have been wrist deep in fuel (I think I got high on it). I figured I might as well replace it with one that works so I can at least eliminate that in as the fault.

Your method of pump testing is positively scary. Next time, leave the pump in the sealed tank and put the power to the plug/wires and listen to see if you can hear it. I see a scenario where the spark from an electrical connection ignites the fumes....


I also opened up the E-Box which is on the passenger's side (In the engine compartment). What I saw was pretty darn confusing. I can post pictures unless someone already has one. What am I supposed to be looking for in there? Where is the fuel pump relay in there?

Its the one in the center....

If I were you I would quit buying parts until you determine whats wrong...

[AquilaBMW]

I said that too... not sure how long it comes on for but it probably isn't enough time to test/troubleshoot the pump.

Your method of pump testing is positively scary. Next time, leave the pump in the sealed tank and put the power to the plug/wires and listen to see if you can hear it. I see a scenario where the spark from an electrical connection ignites the fumes....

Its the one in the center....

If I were you I would quit buying parts until you determine whats wrong...

He he he... sorry, I chuckled at your comment about my Fuel Pump Test. The pump was not IN the tank when I tested it. It was out of the tank, out of the car too when I hot wired it. I am not that suicidal :)

I agree with you on certain parts - I was pretty sure about the Fuel Pump since it had failed before, which is why I bought a replacement. I will first see if there is a way to test the Crank Sensor before i buy one - same for the relay as long as I know how to test them properly. Since these are items that fail eventually, I don't mind replacing them now as long as I can get the darn car running. Overheads are low on the car - I am enjoying no car payments! YAY!:buttrock

[VacMan]

If the key fobs aren't bmw then chances are you have an aftermarket alarm somewhere in the works as well. I'd find it and pull the brain. Pull the OEM one too just for giggles. It's under the rear seat on the driver's side.

[AquilaBMW]

If the key fobs aren't bmw then chances are you have an aftermarket alarm somewhere in the works as well. I'd find it and pull the brain. Pull the OEM one too just for giggles. It's under the rear seat on the driver's side.

I found the OEM one as I had to change the battery. It might be a bugger to find the Aftermarket one - I have no clue where it is. If the car had an OEM alarm system, I wonder why they added an aftermarket one?

If I get this puppy running again, will be it possible to get the OEM system working?

I don't remember ever setting the Ignition / Start lockout on the Computer (OBC?) with a code. If I did, could this be a symptom and can the OBC be reset? With the ignition on, I can use the turn signal switch to toggle through the various functions like mileage, range, etc.

[attack eagle]

replacement fobs for the alpine alarm.

unplug the amarm module, and get a multimeter. even a $3 one is better than guessing.

[AquilaBMW]

replacement fobs for the alpine alarm.

unplug the amarm module, and get a multimeter. even a $3 one is better than guessing.

This might be a dumb question, but is it possible the AM fobs are working with the OEM unit?

Also, is it possible to create a conflict between systems if there are two alarm systems plugged in?

[attack eagle]

yes, there are aftermarket fobs for the oe unit.

[AquilaBMW]

yes, there are aftermarket fobs for the oe unit.

Sorry AE, was that "Yes" to both questions? So, this would mean there is possibly no secondary Alarm unit in the car?

[upallnight]

He he he... sorry, I chuckled at your comment about my Fuel Pump Test. The pump was not IN the tank when I tested it. It was out of the tank, out of the car too when I hot wired it. I am not that suicidal :)

I agree with you on certain parts - I was pretty sure about the Fuel Pump since it had failed before, which is why I bought a replacement. I will first see if there is a way to test the Crank Sensor before i buy one - same for the relay as long as I know how to test them properly. Since these are items that fail eventually, I don't mind replacing them now as long as I can get the darn car running. Overheads are low on the car - I am enjoying no car payments! YAY!:buttrock

If the pump was a used pump there might have been some gas in the pump and a spark might have ignited the gas.

[mottati]

I don't remember ever setting the Ignition / Start lockout on the Computer (OBC?) with a code. If I did, could this be a symptom and can the OBC be reset? With the ignition on, I can use the turn signal switch to toggle through the various functions like mileage, range, etc.

procedure for getting around a 'forgotten' code is in the owners manual. Essentially, you disconnect the battery for a while, and when you reconnect it a timer appears on the obc.

I've also heard of a bad obc causing a non-start issue, due to a failure relating to the CODE system.

[AquilaBMW]

If the pump was a used pump there might have been some gas in the pump and a spark might have ignited the gas.

Gotcha.


procedure for getting around a 'forgotten' code is in the owners manual. Essentially, you disconnect the battery for a while, and when you reconnect it a timer appears on the obc.

I've also heard of a bad obc causing a non-start issue, due to a failure relating to the CODE system.

I am hoping it is not the OBC. I don't know what symptoms to look for to confirm if it is the OBC. I will try all the other steps first.

Where can I find the best way to jump the Relay or can someone provide details? I will go search and see what I can find on the forum.

Someone else asked this - is there a way around the crank sensor other than plugging in a new one?

Is there anyway to get the car to give me a code on the dash that might diagnose this?

[sfgearhead]

Get those Bentley's and dig into the problems one at a time. The crank sensor or testing for spark would be a good place to start.

[AquilaBMW]

Get those Bentley's and dig into the problems one at a time. The crank sensor or testing for spark would be a good place to start.

I am staring at the Bentley manual right now.... :D

[upallnight]

.........................If I were you I would quit buying parts until you determine whats wrong...

Best advice out of the entire group.

[attack eagle]

Sorry AE, was that "Yes" to both questions? So, this would mean there is possibly no secondary Alarm unit in the car?
yes.

you ned to test for voltage going to the pump. otherwise you are whistling dixie in the dark.

[bolloc]

The relay is a k6301 - 86 and 85 should be a constant 12v - 30 and 87 is the switch so put a jumper across 30 - 87 the pump should run.

[AquilaBMW]

The relay is a k6301 - 86 and 85 should be a constant 12v - 30 and 87 is the switch so put a jumper across 30 - 87 the pump should run.

You lost me on jumping there... Can I find this in the Bentley manual? Or can you please be more descriptive... Thanks!

[upallnight]

Pull the relay out, look at the bottom of the relay and you will see numbers. Take your jumper wire and plug it into the relay socket that correspond to the numbers (30, 87) that should send current to the fuel pump.

[ThreeM30s]

Hmm. Has the Crank Position Sensor been tested? I've seen this cause non-start a few times on M30 & M50... Also, IIRC, the Fuel Pump won't run until the ECU gets a 'cranking' signal from the CPS. So if it is bad and you search for a hot wire to the FP, or a non-running FP if that is as far as you get, you'll be calling things bad for no reason.

[AquilaBMW]

Hmm. Has the Crank Position Sensor been tested? I've seen this cause non-start a few times on M30 & M50... Also, IIRC, the Fuel Pump won't run until the ECU gets a 'cranking' signal from the CPS. So if it is bad and you search for a hot wire to the FP, or a non-running FP if that is as far as you get, you'll be calling things bad for no reason.

How does one test the CPS?

[upallnight]

How does one test the CPS?

With an Ohm Meter.

[AquilaBMW]

Okay.... so, back to this lil task at hand.

I am going to try a couple more things after which I will send the car to the shop if I can't get it started.

I remember that recently, the dash display went kinda haywire and looked like a fireworks display. It came back to normal itself, but I wonder if that was an indication of something like the ECU or OBC. The OBC has never shown any signs of trouble though.

Anyone got a spare ECU handy just in case? New ones cost an arm and a leg!

[AquilaBMW]

Hey Guys.... this is probably a stupid question to ask, but what is the difference between the Crank Shaft position Sensor and the Camshaft Position Sensor? Also, which one of them would affect the car staring or firing up?

If the Crank Shaft Sensor needs to be replaced, does the air intake have to be removed in your experience. I am about to check Bentley - it looks like the Crankshaft Sensor is in a pretty tight spot.

I checked my relays today, all seemed to check out. They are position weird in the box though. Mine was upside down in the box for some reason and only two of them with five prongs.

[Binjammin]

Crank and cam sensors are different. One senses where the cam is in its rotation, the other the crank. I know if the crank sensor goes out the car won't start, can't remember if the cam sensor triggers a code or a no-start condition.

[AquilaBMW]

Crank and cam sensors are different. One senses where the cam is in its rotation, the other the crank. I know if the crank sensor goes out the car won't start, can't remember if the cam sensor triggers a code or a no-start condition.

From everything I have read and observed, seems the Crank Sensor is the one that triggers a no-start code. Any ideas on the best way to remove the crank sensor? It seems to sit in a pretty tight spot. On first sighting, it seems the Fan need to come off to get to it.

Here is another thought I had. Last time I drove the car, the dash display went crazy for a moment, display a + sign at the right and then going into like a crazy frenzy. I wonder if this had something to do with the OBC and if the OBC was going bad. If the OBC is faulty and has caused a no-start code on the car - will that cause this symptom it is experiencing? And if so, will it require the codes to be reset to get the car going again? Could this be the culprit?

[BavarianFanatic]

I'm not sure how I missed this thread. Have you confirmed that you have voltage to the fuel pump relay? I only ask because the 750 I bought had a pair of non-functional fuel pumps and I ultimately found a blown fusible link in the circuit that powered the ecu, and other distribution boxes. Of course this was on an E32, but there's a chance it could happen in an E34. And naturally the link wasn't shown in any wiring diagrams...

[AquilaBMW]

I'm not sure how I missed this thread. Have you confirmed that you have voltage to the fuel pump relay? I only ask because the 750 I bought had a pair of non-functional fuel pumps and I ultimately found a blown fusible link in the circuit that powered the ecu, and other distribution boxes. Of course this was on an E32, but there's a chance it could happen in an E34. And naturally the link wasn't shown in any wiring diagrams...

I got to hear everything whir, click and tick today.. so I am guessing that the fuel pump is getting power / electricity. I am a tad suspicious though because I got the impression someone had been in the E-Box before. The relays were bolted back upside down, it was immediately apparent that someone had been in there before. I wonder if this is a repeat performance?

[Gene1219]

I had a very similar no start problem on my e36. I went through the same steps you are doing -fuel pump, computer, ect.

What I noticed after I through a bunch of parts into it, was that with the ignition on (not cranking) I was not showing a CEL. Now, I could physically feel the DME relay clicking, so I was assuming that it worked. I was wrong, eventhough the relay was energized and the contacts closed, it did not send enough power to the DME. I had an extra relay from an old engine. Swapped it out, got a CEL and the car started right up.

One other no start problem I had was that the car's started did not turn over. I purchased a new battery and nothing. Having a bunch of old cars in my lifetime, one quick trick was to take a jumper cable from the engine to the chassis to make sure that it was grounded. Sure enough the car started right up. Upon inspection of the ground wire, it was corroded and had a lot of stress on it.

[BavarianFanatic]

I got to hear everything whir, click and tick today.. so I am guessing that the fuel pump is getting power / electricity. I am a tad suspicious though because I got the impression someone had been in the E-Box before. The relays were bolted back upside down, it was immediately apparent that someone had been in there before. I wonder if this is a repeat performance?

So a quick scan of the thread shows that the car WAS running but suffered a battery failure and upon replacement would not start correct? You've swapped in a new fuel pump to no avail. You've confirmed that pump will run/get power. And now it seems someone has bee in the e-box before. I would suggest pulling each relay individually and then reseating them a couple of times to be sure the contact is good on all blades. Then I give each a quick tap when you're attempting to start to make sure you don't have a lazy coil. Beyond that it's time for some methodical troubleshooting - circuit by circuit. It's just not likely that a car that was running would suddenly not run following a battery failure. Although, when the battery did give up the ghost - was it over an extended period of sitting or was it an issue with it discharging quickly between uses? You just might have a bad DME that killed the battery and now won't let it run.

[upallnight]

So a quick scan of the thread shows that the car WAS running but suffered a battery failure and upon replacement would not start correct? You've swapped in a new fuel pump to no avail. You've confirmed that pump will run/get power. And now it seems someone has bee in the e-box before. I would suggest pulling each relay individually and then reseating them a couple of times to be sure the contact is good on all blades. Then I give each a quick tap when you're attempting to start to make sure you don't have a lazy coil. Beyond that it's time for some methodical troubleshooting - circuit by circuit. It's just not likely that a car that was running would suddenly not run following a battery failure. Although, when the battery did give up the ghost - was it over an extended period of sitting or was it an issue with it discharging quickly between uses? You just might have a bad DME that killed the battery and now won't let it run.

He didn't read my previous post.


did you test for power at the fuel pump connection? No power mean either relay, fuse or ECU.

[AquilaBMW]

Okay.... So, someone was able to get me a working Crank Sensor to try out and see if that is the problem.

I did a search through the forum and DIY section, but I cannot find any threads that talks about removal and installation of this sensor.

Can anyone offer their experience? I did check the Bentley and it says I might have to remove the fan first? I would like to try it this weekend and see if I can at least get Elaine started. Thanks!

[gilby]

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HK23&mospid=47415&btnr=11_1230&hg=11&fg=10 here is for the crank and for the cam if you need it. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HK23&mospid=47415&btnr=11_1429&hg=11&fg=10 hope this helps

[AquilaBMW]

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HK23&mospid=47415&btnr=11_1230&hg=11&fg=10 here is for the crank and for the cam if you need it. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HK23&mospid=47415&btnr=11_1429&hg=11&fg=10 hope this helps

Thanks.... I know what it is. I was wondering the best, quick way to replace it. It seems super tight where it is located.

[BavarianFanatic]

Definitely pull the fan and the shroud. You'll have enough room to lay down and take a nap if you want. I wouldn't even think of trying it with the fan in place. It's not really that hard to change.

[Smitherines]

Any updates on this problem? I seem to be having the same problem.

[AquilaBMW]

My sincere apologies to all who were following this thread.

I tried everything I could, including a bag of new Relays and even a new Crank Sensor and the car would still not fire. I have since abandoned this issue and the car is not being parted. I acquired another Touring.

Sorry again.

[upallnight]

Thanks.... I know what it is. I was wondering the best, quick way to replace it. It seems super tight where it is located.

Find a little kid with small fingers. LOL